ad456
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Posts posted by ad456
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7 hours ago, GTodd said:
Tamiy needs to bring out a Jugg3!
Yes they very much do!!
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Nice! Always like to see some Jugg action!
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nice one @Shergar, that scaleclub one looks interesting too.
Now I’ve got me wee lad to bed now so had peace to go through what I’d been looking at.
I’m pretty much after this recipe for functions or close.
shared brake and rear lightsreverse lights
on/off for indicators as I don’t always want them going as I drive a curve/corner
headlights that don’t go higher/on when I drive forward.
Switchable hazard lights would be a bonus
Extra channel for light bar is always good
and if a channel is there to say, manage the system that can be handy
Scale-man.de is the German one I couldn’t think of. Has some nice sounding controllers at various prices. Look like they have a few tricks all the way to winch controller included on one system. Haven’t looked at the docs yet though so don’t know all the functions. Pricing varies but no stock just now.
The Boom Racing KUDU for the BRX02 models has 4 channels and I haven’t managed to look into the functions properly. I think it’s £50 or thereabouts which will be fine if it actually does what I want.
There is another I found on eBay that I’ve not seen before, it uses a ribbon cable that can be detached for ease of body removal. I’m gonna look further and then maybe take a punt at £15 to see how it fares.
The MyTrickRC one is the one I saw on the AmPro video and it looks good too, I must watch more videos on it too as it looks pretty good. It’s about $80 in various incarnations on Amain.
I haven’t really finished properly looking around as I’m taking my time before ending up with more light systems that don’t work in a fashion I personally like or are just downright terrible. I’ve got 3 now and 1 will maybe useful for something and another is simply a disco box, the other skirts somewhere in between.
I wanna spend a bit more, get something better but wary of ending up with more spares box fodder. If any of them turn out good I’d be buying a few for different cars.
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I’m eyeing up a few looking for much the same. I’ve seen the MyTrickRC one, Boom Racing have one for the BRX02 that looks like it’s most of the way there.
What I’m finding out is that if you want good features it’ll cost 50-70 quid minimum. I’m not really against that price but haven’t jumped in yet as I want to absolutely certain before I part with money. I’ve looked at AmPro’s light series too and the MyTrickRC one is the best I’ve seen but not quite all I personally want, so my search/research continues. I found a Bierer(the 1/14 truck stuff) and another independent one in Germany but my German is not great in any fashion and they seemed complicated from the outset.
I would happily go the Arduino route but my skills are not entirely up to that, I can wire it easy enough but some of the more advanced(to my skillset) coding pickles my head.
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7 minutes ago, OldSchoolRC1 said:
build a set of connectors into the body mounts
A pogo pin magnetic bar would be good for that, it’s a system I’ve been looking into as the connectors only usually cost a couple of quid depending on amount of pins etc.
I’ve noticed some newer light systems are coming with a ribbon cable that lets you use one connector for all the lights and is a lot easier to unplug.
Another plan might be a hinged body mount, that way you don’t have to unplug anything (most of the time).
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@alvinlwh fair play, I see what ya mean, yeah. It definitely gets a lot worse when it’s on a forum/social media etc as tone can be very lost in the wording, I feel it happens with the way I say/write sometimes which has always led me to post way less than I want.
I see it happening the other way too, folk get very sound advice but don’t wanna listen no matter how sound it is.
Anyway, I’ll step out of this as I’ve not got anything more to add that’s on topic and don’t wanna derail.
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6 hours ago, alvinlwh said:
A Makita hammer drill should be expensive enough to not be considered rubbish, has plenty of RPM and torque
My baby Makita 10.8 has a speed control range that you can crawl the screw in when required. Very easy to overcook it if yer not used to power tool control though!
It’s proving a saviour when my hands are having bad days which is becoming more often as I get older.
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I’ve got Mammoth axles which are the same as Jugg I’m pretty sure and they don’t bolt up, they need shimmed/replaced with Clod outdrives.
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26 minutes ago, Mad Ax said:
Just popped on to add to the above: as there are so many different directions you can take a clod, taking time to understand the basic truck could help you decide what way to go before you spend a heap of money.
If you absolutely love the way the stock truck drives, then you don't need to spend anything - just enjoy it.
If you really love the character and the scale but you want better steering, buy a servo on axle kit.
If you think it's OK but could be a bit better behaved when the terrain gets tougher or the speeds go up, look at the range of retro chassis available now.
If you find it's utterly useless and won't do what you want, bounces too much, doesn't turn, jump, accelerate or brake, then look at the full conversion options.
I mean, you could go all-in right now and buy a carbon chassis with links and servo-on-axle setup, and it might be the most fun rig you ever built, but it would be a shame to do all that without ever having driven it stock, IMO. I've spend years trying to perfect my home-built custom racing clod chassis and all I've learned is that I'd probably have had more fun with a retro chassis.
Sage advice right there!
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@alvinlwh Magic dude, much appreciated👍 I’ve used them a bit, they work good as they are the twin bearing type. I’d have no issues putting them on touring or buggy wheels but I’d think issues would show on bigger wheels. I’ve not really ran them much as they landed on my hot rod with some HPI vintage rims and that car is way off being finished. I totally thought I had a picture of them fitted up but cannot find it so I’ll maybe sort one this afternoon if my memory works. I’ll put em on the Wild One as it’s a Tamiya, I have them fitted to my custom wide semi-axle.
I’d definitely buy ones and use them as FOR ME it’s so much easier that doing all the work and experimenting that comes with swapping out hubs and knuckles etc, there’s absolutely nothing wrong with that route though if that’s what wanted and I genuinely understand the challenge/reward in it.
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9 hours ago, BuggyDad said:
Commonly available one-piece wheel adapters
I haven’t tried these but am highly skeptical as they are fitted in the order: adapter (with both bearings in) – wheel – nut. So wheel either rotates against nut or has nothing to hold it on beyond the tightness of its fit over the adapter’s hex. YMMV, I don't intend to try these.
These usually need the wheel centre drilled out to the axle diameter so aren’t a non-destructive option. A nylon washer as a sacrifice would stop any unwanted wear. Also depending on the axle they can need shimmed.
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If I remember correctly it’s the outdrives for the axles, and then clod wheel hubs and clod wheels.
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I’ve got a stocker Clod that I have not really modded that I do enjoy running. The only mods I did was to swap the servo horn and remove the rubber shock bump stops and I do enjoy the character of it. It’s a thing that everyone should have at least one run of in stock form.
Its not a savagely complicated thing to work on so any mods you choose to do from there will usually be simple enough to fit.
I really should put the wheels on it and check it still runs properly before the winter fully sets in as it’s a riot in the snow!
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Grinding the entire heads off of certain screws to free other parts to slip off might be a way to go in certain areas. You should be able to wind off the leftover screws with some pliers on the shafts. Not the cleverest but sometimes it’s down to what works.
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This is probably total overkill but I have the set. Turn the clutch down depending on how well used and you can go mad and never ruin the plastics
And helps no end round the house.
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I think another point may be that as a company your not going to sell as many hop-ups as you would the full car kits, especially when it comes to more expensive or less popular kits so returning the investment, be it for true R&D or just getting the in-house CAD guy to “do one of these in alloy”, is passed on to the customer.
Personally I avoid alloy whenever possible because, as stated above, it does not bend back.
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Distilled vinegar will dissolve rust too. Me and my mate use it to clean up old tools. I’m not gonna say it won’t damage the plastic as I can’t guarantee it but I don’t think that it will.
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If the heads are rounded then slot them with a dremel cut off wheel and they might unscrew.
Warming(I don’t meant hot) up the plastic a bit might help them not be so tight.Those look like they may disintegrate from a wrong look though so hopefully a “Pro Restorer” will have some better ideas than me
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1 hour ago, alvinlwh said:
Oh so you had been to our town's high street? Feels more like 1950s than 1980s.
Ha! Our high street would’ve been far more useful in any previous decade before now. I miss the hardware/tool shops, Woolworths, hobby shop etc.
The only progression right now is we currently have a Tamiya stockist for the first time in about 20 years. Most of the rest is just touristy or gift shops and cafes
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Ah, elbow grease, not heard of that for a long time. Used to be a cleaner for a living and a lot of people swore by it, I wasn’t that impressed but it might be good for this.
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12 minutes ago, alvinlwh said:
Plastic ok with brake cleaner? Everywhere else seems to indicate it is not ok?
I’ve read there are different formulas of brake cleaner, some plastic safe and some not.
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@Willy iine nice one, I’ll get looking while I’m off work next week👍
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2 hours ago, Willy iine said:
But everyone should have motor spray in their arsenal..
I’m yet to find someone willing to send that to where me and @alvinlwh live, seems I’d have more luck getting a Molotov cocktail overnighted. When I do I will arm up though!
I’d agree on being careful with dish soap, some of it contains rinse aid these days which I can only imagine helps paint stick wonderfully😂
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@alvinlwh, Just remove the grease with WD-40 and wash it off with IPA, it’ll stop any leftover WD40 from breaking down the new grease.
I usually decant my WD40 and let the propellant gas off before using.

XV-01T Rebuild - Slow with Q’s! 😂
in Build Tips and Techniques
Posted
Yum, pure unadulterated ADHD hyperactivity in a bottle, there’s nothing better!!