ad456
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Posts posted by ad456
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I ran it through Blender 3D and filled a few gaps in the mesh as it was non-manifold(not sealed) and took the mesh detail down as it was crashing the slicer I used to use. That was about 3 years ago but I’m sure I’ll still have the file I did somewhere in my project folder.
Scaling it in a slicer would work fine if the model is good though!
PrusaSlicer should give you warnings if there’s issues with the mesh(it’s what I currently use). Not sure about Cura as it only allows me to print spaghetti on my delta
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It is, I’ve scaled one up and printed it a couple of years ago. The mesh I used needed some cleanup but it was a good 3d scan from thingiverse.
Edit: found a pic. That’s scaled up on top of a juggernaut chassis.
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Some form of sway bar would help with torque twist. Not sure if there is one available for the CR01 but it wouldn’t likely be hard to modify one from another model to fit.
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23 minutes ago, alvinlwh said:
Is that a Bakelite handle?😍
It definitely has that kinda feel to it, there's a very heavy 60s-70s vibe about it. I got it in a box of unwanted tools for free and it has been absolutely stellar, keeps good heat, heats well for that style of iron, I love it but it looks like a piece of junk, lol
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I’ll second @alvinlwh’s soldering iron comment, i use a Remploy 25w that is almost certain to be older than me. Never fails and probably still has the original tip. Never lets me down.
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Isn’t there a 12mm hex front 1/14 wheel that Tamiya make that might fit? If it’s got the look you’re after of course.
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I haven’t really done much, just turned up the punch and brakes for a while to make it super lairy to drive and then when I was getting used to that I turned them back down a touch and it kinda came together for me, I do “only” run it on 3s, I feel if I was on 4s I’d have to own shares in Kyosho to help with parts as it’s just likely to be way too much for my driving abilities.
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Fingers crossed I’ll remember to measure my standard WR-01 kingpins for you tomorrow. They should be the same as the GF01/WR02. If you don’t get someone else chime in and I forget then just give me a prod and I’ll get on it
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After a quick search this one turns up on http://pro10-classic.com/werkstatt-tamiya-srb-racer/ With a full built albeit in German, it’s quite a buggy it seems. Thanks for sending me looking @twaleta, an interesting read on a cool buggy!
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While this doesn’t remotely answer the question, would something like Tamiya 53141 help gain a lower profile on the kingpins if it’s a tight fit? I don’t know that those specific ones fit but there must be something similar that would if they don’t.
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@smirk-racing Na sorry, stupid phone focused too close so it was a Bigfoot(the hairy dude, not the monster truck) style video.
I’m honestly pretty rough on mine, I do jump it despite knowing better, was using a concrete sewage outflow pipe as a ramp for backflips today on the beach. The sand limits the damage to a point. I’ve got the steel roll bar on mine and that stiffens the plates a touch too.
Full catalogue of damage is I’ve warped one set of plates, broke two C hub axle parts, a 4 link bar, twisted one dogbone and broke a single rod end since I got it in Feb ‘22. Only mods are a new body as I trashed the USA body fast and I put a Power HD 20kg in it, though that could do being replaced with something faster.I wouldn’t drive it hardcore freestyle too much (like a Mod Clod or LMT) but it’s hands down my go-to truck for about 16 months now. All damage has pretty much been my own fault.
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Isn’t that a heavily modded SRB?
The gearbox looks very much like it and wasn’t the RC10 an independent front, the pic is a trailing arm.
That said it’s also got what possibly looks like a MIP or other rear trailing arm setup mod as well.
Edit : here’s a load of SRB mods that MIP did and that buggy looks like it’s got more than a few of them fitted. Almost hides it’s roots
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Ragged nearly 2 full packs through the USA-1 at the beach, love that thing!! Came away unscathed and after a hose down I sat a fixed my mod Clod after I tore up the front upper 4link mount some weeks ago.
All in a good RC day, a good bash and more running now than when I got outa bed-
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Just had my USA-1 out for a couple of packs out on the beach, total beast on the sand.
If it’s a Tamiya for the weapon of choice it’s a toss up between the Wild One or Clod depending on sand type and tide height. Both cracking fun! -
Cults3d has some good stuff
MyMiniFactory has some
Thingiverse will get another vote
GrabCAD has a few bits n bobs
There’s another site that won’t come to mind just now
Edit : maybe it’s Printables, seems have a few pages of Tamiya stuff. There’s certainly a lot more print file sites than there used to be.
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3 hours ago, alvinlwh said:
There goes my dream of being the first Tamiya dealer up here!
Sorry but we had a hobby shop in the 90s that had Tamiya, I bought my first Tamiya there, the FF02 Peugeot 306 I think. The shops long gone now though.
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19 minutes ago, alvinlwh said:
I just left a message on their FB suggesting that they do an ordering service for paints. It will be difficult for them to carry the entire stock but perhaps they can get them on an ad-hoc basis. You can also suggest it to Neil maybe? Saves us from forcing ourselves to a £30+ order from TTM, and keeping the business local.
I’ve known Neil for a lot of years, he’s pretty approachable even if ya don’t know him, so if ya see him just ask.
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Cool, I’ll get words with the owner sometime, maybe see if he’s got the whole catalogue available to him
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The figures will be down to the spec sheet, most of the eBay listings have a data sheet for a Mabuchi.
As for ESC, it’ll be Clod style territory there, if one ESC is running both then it equals half the turns (2 motors at 27t = ESC rated for 13t) or run 2 ESC if I remember things correctly.
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@alvinlwh, is all that at Grooves?!
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Chances are that eBay non-branded 380 aren’t timed, ones for general industrial use. Or even a Mabuchi RS-380 for a drill, they are on eBay for less than £5. They’d likely be cheap enough to take a punt and you could choose from different rpm ratings
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Those bodies sound like any of them could work well, I’ve got the Proline Stampede 50s Chevy for a 1/12 build sometime, it’s a 252mm wb which would be ideal. There’s also a C10 body they do.
I’d usually suggest 3s as an easy speed gain but with the enclosed motor design of the Ravine it may not keep cool. Brushless would be an idea, I’m not up on 380 motors so don’t know what other options are out there.
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I don’t have any experience of that model but have done exactly what you’re planning with a Clod and it sounds like you have the right idea going on.
Are you planning on lunchbox/wr02 size wheels? And is there a body in mind already?
Look forward to seeing what you do with it!-
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Not had my head on fully with this today, been up early with the wee lad being poorly. I’ve had a good check and like @Busdriver said the arms are a bit opened up, the top one is close to cracking I think.
I think this will likely be a Mk1, if I remember correctly it was sold as an early ranger or something.
I’ll try find some right arms and that’ll hopefully sort it.
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RC-related things you'd love to do (but probably won't)
in General discussions
Posted
In 1993 we were in London and got to go to the RC exhibition at the Olympia(I think that’s where it was) and I’ve always wanted to go back to something like that now I’m a lot older and would understand it better.