ad456
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Posts posted by ad456
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4 minutes ago, Nikko85 said:
I love the idea, but I'm afraid the WR01 is a little too long at 281 mm and the WR02 much too short. The LB tires would also be a little too big as they are 115 mm when I need to get around 100 mm (or slightly less) to match the Mountaineer in terms of scale. I do love the idea of a WR01 however, great looking thing.
What I've learned is that having a 1:12 collection is ridiculous.
Some great idea to think on, thanks all.
You could easily chop 50mm out of the centre by swapping the chassis plates for angle aluminium and relocating the battery. The tyres are a problem though.
Depends on how strong the want of serious modifications is. I’m sure there is one shortened in the Showrooms on the main site. It was a Blackfoot 3 with 4WS if memory serves.-
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WR-01 shortened with TL-01 arms, Wild Willy rear wheels and Lunchbox/Pumpkin tires? It’d be like a wee Mountaineer?
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So I got an email this morning, and have corrected the information given above.
this was the emailI must apologize for some incorrect information. At some point during my COVID absence it occurred to me that I may have typed "Kv" when I meant RPMs. You may have assumed correctly and corrected my mistake mentally, but I wanted to set the record straight, nonetheless. .
Removing the flux ring will gain you around 1500RPM for the Retro Sports, not 1500Kv. 1500Kv extra would be amazing, wouldn't it?
Jordan
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I’m interested as I got some clod tyres in a job lot years ago that have good rims but someone must have tried to cut them into crawler tyres (they did not do the most fantastic job) so they’ll be first to test.
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In short, no.
My wheels that could be sacrificed are at the back of the shed and it’s an absolute tip. Tomorrow I may get time to tidy up so I may have found them by Sunday and I’ll try and remember and do it. I’ve got some various makes so I’ll try a few for mileage sake. -
I must admit I like the idea of the self managing batteries to a point, even if it’s only helpful when you haven’t run a pack dry.
It’s the hideous proprietary nature of the modern world that puts me clean off them, how long until this only works with other stuff from its own brand, can’t swap to the plugs you want etc. I like my Apple stuff but the walls they put up to stop various accessories is mental. I can’t see it being long until Traxxas and possibly Horizon/Spectrum start this kinda behaviour.
Without question it’s a good step in the right direction, just hopefully we would get a ISO type standard for the hobby. -
Most iPhones run on 4.35v batteries so it can be plenty safe. I believe it is a slightly different chemistry and the trade-off is longevity of the battery, it’ll give up in less cycles than a normal 4.2v lipo.
I love my lipos but the storage charge part is a bit annoying. I still tend to reach for the Nimh unless I need or want the extra bit of go.
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In the uk the HH is about £24 and the LRP is £27 so more comparable from a price point at least. The Tamiya is £45 so it is chunk more expensive.
Certainly not all equal beasts and I’d doubt many are meant for similar applications.
I’d say the HH would still be great with a lot less maintenance needed.
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17 minutes ago, alvinlwh said:
As an ex employee, you will (may?) remember that spray paints were allowed at one time, up to around 2015 when I was still living in Shetland. Back then, my spray paint will come via RM with a "Not by air" or "Do not fly" sticker, quite obvious it is spray paint inside with the noise you know what I mean? Now, at that time, an employee told me, they still threw it on the plane anyway as the Saab fly too low to make a difference. Off topic a bit, I had heard of tins of house paint "exploding" on the Islander (tradesmen going to the isles), due to rough landing not anything else, and the result was not pretty.
I actually spoke to Neil few weeks ago and he said that the courier he use did not specifically disallow paint, but paint will not be covered by the insurance. Now if only that can also apply to lipos...
They didn’t scan the mail back then so a lot got through that shouldn’t. I have to admit that I don’t actually remember those stickers but do vaguely remember a few rattle cans getting sorted. My memory isn’t always clever though.
I’d chance lipos are the same as paint with some, ie Hermes, isn’t that who CNHL use? And Parcel Force was who HobbyKing used when they had a UK warehouse. I was gobsmacked when my lipos turned up with the postie when I ordered from them.
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As an ex employee from a long time ago, yeah, aerosol is indeed a hazard to them, compressed gas is essentially why i think though after 20 years my memory isn't brilliant. Illegal to send live bees to Iceland with their services too so that gives you an idea of how arbitrary things can be.
I'm sure Time Tunnel Models would be quite happy to help, He's a good dude! And uses courier for paint
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3 minutes ago, alvinlwh said:
On paper, turn for turn, nothing can beat the SS motors. Realistically, I don't know...
Exactly, a HW1060 vs a MTroniks AutoSport is very different, battery discharge rates make a massive difference, and model weights are a huge factor too. It’s sometimes a bit of a nightmare to decide where to put yer money!
I never really believe the specs but they a fine for a rough guide.
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I’d say they likely are with the ring hence the “gain 1500kv” statement, 1500kv at 7.2v is 10,000rpm which is surprising. I never realised it made that much difference.
I’d say go for whatever is looking where you want and if it’s slow you can remove the ring for a bit more go.
I did this on the FTX 15t 550 motors on my modified Clodbuster and it really does make a difference. I’ll have to remove the rings on my Traxxas Titans sometime and see what 4s does to them, hehe!! -
I do like a thread like this, it always makes me take time to question my attitudes to things, both in the hobby and then it usually bleeds out to other aspects life and usually I find that I’m a bit more off from where I want to be than I realised.
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I’d say the HH will be a good budget motor as there’s little they do wrong.
The LRP and Tamiya will need more attention/upkeep being Mod motors. Also likely to pick up more dirt with the vents along the can.
I think I have that Tamiya motor in my Wild One, it came to me in a job lot of other stuff. It gets very hot but I have no idea what gearing I have on it, it’s been on the shelf for a while in the “to sort out” pile. It could be I was running like an animal too but likely I’ll be lazy and throw a Torque Tuned sealed can back in there and then rebuild the motor for something else. It’s a top looking motor though which is why it went in there originally. It could just need a comm trim but I digress.I guess my best recommendation is have a look through the showrooms on the main site and see what others are running in the comicals and wheelies and base yer choice from there. Too hot a motor in a comical will end up on its back all day I’d reckon.
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I’m think out loud here and not really wanting to muddy the water(only trying to be objective) but Holmes state what they test with. What do Tamiya and LRP use if anything? I don’t know but no load at all will create strikingly high numbers.
There is also a question of torque, if a motor is meant for a pan car and you put it in a monster truck it will likely be rubbish as it likely won’t have the torque.
We’re also comparing rebuildable mod motors against sealed cans. The Tamiya motor will have timing on it I’d bet, I’ve not looked up the LRP.
I’d bet the Tamiya motor will need attention every 10-20 runs while the Holmes will go until the brushes die then off to the bin.Point is I feel we’re comparing different beasts and RPM and Volts alone is not the full picture.
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So this is the reply in full:
Thank you for your email! It prompted me to drop what I was doing and to go do the testing and update the chart FINALLY!
You'll find the Retro Sport 540 motors have been added to the CHART.
You'll see that they don't have a really high Kv comparatively but you will feel the difference in torque. Our motors do include a flux ring and the removal of that will gain you 1500RPM. The flux ring is what's stickered though 🙁
So, the fastest Retro Sport would be the 15T without the flux ring and it tests at 30,700 RPMs at 10V pulling 9.6A (with a small propeller used for tach'ing) We'll be featuring some Tamiya models in an upcoming video!👍
Thank you,
Jordan
https://holmeshobbies.com/motor-recommendations
So there ya go folks. It’s now on their site.
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2 hours ago, jonboy1 said:
I've found WD-40 to be quite good at breaking down super glue without attacking tyres. Spray it onto the join and leave it to soak in. Repeat as necessary.
I’m gonna have to try that!
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I’ve send them a message asking and will let you know if I get a reply. I asked about all of them all instead of just the 21t.
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@Nikko85 and every 6 months there’s a change colour of bacon box that’s no different other than the colour yet sold as a completely new product yet it’s just the same old bacon, or should I say lipstick on a pig?
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Got a chance to get out with it and found a big pile of topsoil at my mothers house and her pond area was not very dry either.
I've added some bruiser shackles that i got for 8 quid on eBay as i didn't feel that there was enough height for where I'll be running most of the time. After 5 mins with it I decided I'd made the right choice. I think next is some larger OD tires, these grip fine but an extra few mm of height will again help, anyone got any suggestions? I'd like something chunky looking and quite grippy. I'm considering 1.55" as I've some stamped steel china fines laying around from a CC-01 i was messing with.
Otherwise a lower turn motor is a definite, probably a 35t and i think then it'll be cosmetic/weathering stuff. All in I'm really chuffed with the truck.
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There is the thought that if you want a kit to go and do a specific part of the hobby then Tamiya is just not worth it, for a drift specific chassis an MST would likely be far more sense(or other brands, I’m not overly familiar with that segment) and it’s absolutely true of crawling too(Axial, Carisma etc).
For a solid axle monster then as you’ve stated the Clod is no longer king but does have its place in retro. The racing scene for buggies has no room for Tamiya hardly from what I see and it’s possibly the same for Touring Cars, again I’m not up on those either. The only segment that they do still own are the Wheelies/6x6 Big Wheelers.
Tamiya was once the king, get the kit and then pocket money hop-ups will get it going better. I don’t really feel Tamiya has kept up with the other manufacturers, with the release of the BBX it shows there is a chance someone has realised this, some aspects of that kit show fresh thinking. As others have said even the most basic features of the modern market are considered a hop-up on a Tamiya.
This is in no way meant to seem harsh on Tamiya, I love them but I’m starting to diversify my collection at quite a rate and it seems to be for the models I actually run, my last purchases were the Kyosho USA-1 and I’ve swapped out nothing and my RC4WD TF2 which I can see will get a lot of use. My ECX Torment is another firm favourite as it will take any dumb moment and not end up in a parts order. I’ve not run my CC-01, WR-01’s, TT02 or even the Wild One in over an year and the Clod only comes out for snow now. I will always own Tamiya without question but I find them more and more to be the cars I don’t use. It’s disappointing from my own perspective as I hold Tamiya in big regard but I’m starting to wonder why?Edit : because kits are rare and I like building and nostalgia
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As an old skateboarder/bmxer with worn out joints I do enjoy taking my ECX Torment to the skatepark, bashing it instead of me and pushing the limits. The torment was bought for that sole purpose as it generally doesn’t break, the last thing was a shock e-clip when I misjudged and clipped a bench at 30mph.
I really do like freestyle MT as well, it’s class seeing how hard the trucks cash be pushed these days.
That said, I try to look after the rest of my fleet as they are not for sending off a shipping container.
I really do appreciate and genuinely get a lot of the points of views here and the shameless and deliberate destruction that is in vogue is a bit much. A genuine fail on the other hand is good, like the pain reels on old skateboard vids or a smash reel on the old rally vids.
I have room for almost both ends of the spectrum except the extreme deliberate destruction.RC is much like how skating has gone, it used be like “cool, another skater!” and more and more I find it’s intolerance to other attitudes, styles and aspects but I guess a lot has sadly gone that way in all parts of life.
If I find another RC person round my way I’m just glad that the hobby is keeping going and hopefully as time goes on attitudes will come round to the older ways.-
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From a sellers point of view I’m ok with anyone choosing where and where not to send things for any reason. It can cause extra postage charges, customs charges and various other hassle that maybe anything from inconvenient, confusing or damage the reputation if it goes wrong.
This affects me as a buyer quite regularly and I tend to ask if they will accommodate my location and if they don't or can’t then it’s tough luck to me, I can accept that fine and don’t get upset. Most generally will thankfully but some won’t or regulations(no matter how silly) get in the way. It’s part and parcel of how things go.-
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That is one looooongg truck, shame it’s not quite long enough, it’s not too far out but I can see why you’re not happy with it.
On a side note, was your body absolutely caked in mold release? Every time I go near mine I end up washing my hands.
Losi TLR Tuned LMT
in Monster Trucks, 4x4, Wheelie Rigs and Crawlers
Posted
I’ll echo everyone above. This is a race weapon, that’s all. No use to me. That carbon fibre wouldn’t last long off of a track setting with me driving.
Sure does look nice but that’s getting expensive before I drive it and I dare say it’ll need some tweaks on top of the motor, esc, decent servo, body, tires, wheels and paint. It’s a racing truck and I’m no racer.
Shame they don’t bring back the OG kit, that’s a bit more accessible wallet wise but my stables full for monsters just now.