ad456
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Posts posted by ad456
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Theadlock is ready to go once I’m done fiddling with things as anything metal to metal is a disaster without it.
@OldSchoolRC1, the ring and pinion is something I’d completely spaced on, thanks for the heads up there. I’ve pulled the rear open and zero side to side on the ring and no forward to back on the pinion, it’s really tight without actually binding which is a nice surprise given the above experiences from above. Grease was the orange thick stuff and was a good amount.@87lc2, I think you can understand exactly how much willpower I am enlisting not to go full lift monster crazy. Just yet anyway
I want to see if I can get on with this trail malarkey first and if not then the gloves come off!
Tonight I raised the dash a full 10mm as it just looked dumb so low, I’m not even convinced it’s visible in the above photos. Must get it painted too as the interior is just lost in there as it is.
Must pull the shocks apart and put some slime on the shafts to stop wear and lubricate a bit, fit some LEDs and I think I’m about there for the pre-flight checks.
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That’s me out of ideas then. Could always open it up and see if there’s anything suspicious looking inside but that’s all I really have left to suggest.
Ya could always look into doing @Frog Jumper’s mod -
I have this combo on a few of my cars and I can run my short course truck up the beach far enough that I can’t tell which way round it is if I’m not paying attention, I’d assume that’s maybe more than 60m, I suck at distance.
Is there any chance of antenna damage? I broke mine a few years back and bought another that was for a similar Tx and it was all good again.
Standing the antenna up will help a bit indeed. -
Shouldn’t be too hard depending on what the bottom is like, what size are the wheels you want to use?
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I’ll have a good look over on SBG for some tricks, thanks @Badcrumble
So I got the stock esc/tx/rx pulled out and replace them with a HW1080 and a 6ch rx for my Gt3c. Put the Original wheels back on now that I found my axle stands(don’t wanna ruin tires with flat spots)
Next is to fit some LEDs and actually get outside with it even if it’s only round the garden and driveway
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It looks that way. Hopefully someone may chime in that can understand Japanese better than an Apple algorithm
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Here's what my iPhone came up with, it does reference a "Potato Screw" so might well be a bit wrong.
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I spent some time looking for the Juggernaut models in 2020 but turned up very little, I hope you have more luck.
I just happened to remember about those just now. Maybe the gearboxes and axles are of some help as I think they contain the gears etc.
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Are you still looking for these @The Knight?
https://grabcad.com/library/tamiya-txt-1-rc-monster-truck
https://grabcad.com/library/tamiya-txt-1-truck-1/details?folder_id=412114is that of any use?
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So last week I took complete leave of my senses and decided to order an RC4WD Blazer V8 Limited Edition. I've wanted a leaf spring truck for a long time now, always faced the Blazer body on something ever since I saw it and that V8 is a really cool looking thing as well.
Why not get at least next 6 months RC budget ruined in one go? Seems really stupid so that's a good enough reason
Delivered yesterday, all good and nice and shiny and super slow(but that's the point I think).
Anyone else got a Trailfinder truck? Suggestions for a first timer?
Couldn't help myself but fit the lunchbox tires for a laugh too but bizarrely looks awesome, or at least to me.
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@87lc2 Here we go. I'm no photographer so if you want better/different angles etc just ask
AHA!! Stupid Https, Grr.
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1 minute ago, alvinlwh said:
Don't think Alclad (the primer really) will stick to PC. Also, the primer prep for Alclad requires some serious work, mirror shine kind of thing.
Thanks man, I’d read it worked but had no personal experience, I’ll not suggest it for that in future👍
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Yer, welcome! I can post shots in comparison to the Kyosho and a JConcepts Chevy 1500 later on if ya want?
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10 hours ago, JamesM3081 said:
@ad456 This is looking great. How is the quality of the chassis itself? From the pictures it actually looks amazing for a "mass produced" tube chassis. I'm very tempted in getting one of these!
Thanks!
I’d say the quality is about where you’re suspecting but I have no experience of other tube frames to compare it to.
There’s a couple of bits that the tubes don’t exactly meet brilliantly and I don’t think I’d run it too hard when it’s finished but it’s a class thing to look at and feels nice and solid.
I’ve never seen another build of this frame and the whole thing is a custom build or buy all the RC4WD stuff from Shapeways.
On the whole, expensive but don’t regret it.
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RC4WD manticore body is an option I should’ve suggested first as I have one. Can’t believe I didn’t think of it. Alas it’s not a real truck but it’d fill the 15”
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Yeah, I believe Alclad is available over here. I think Molotow Chrome refill can be airbrushed too (if airbrush is an option?)
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This is definitely what a lot of folk have wanted for a while, me included. Very excited about this.
Mount for a spare wheel on the back and also possibly wing mounts as well?
This might not be a day one for me but I will definitely have one at some point. Heaps of aftermarket potential as well. Hope it’s a hit as it deserves to be.
Im looking forward to finding out what the Tamiya eccentricity’s are!
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Are there any smaller indy body manufacturers over your side of the pond? In the vein as we have Kamtec. I Looked through McAllisters and RJ Speeds sites a didn’t find much for this size but I’m sure there’s more.
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I’m sure that’s what they said but I’ve now looked it up and here’s the current law according to Citizens Advice
Buying in a shop
Your legal rights in a shop will depend on whether you’ve paid for the item yet or not.
If you haven’t bought it yet
If you take an item to the till and are told the price on the tag or label is a mistake, you don’t have a right to buy the item at the lower price. You could still try asking the seller to honour the price.
It’s the same if you see an item advertised anywhere for a lower price than the one on the price tag.
If you’ve already bought it
If the shop sold you an item at a lower cost than they meant to, you don’t have to give it back - they’re only legally entitled to ask you for more money if you’d talked about the price (eg £100) and they ended up charging you much less instead (eg £10).
If you realise you’ve paid more for an item than it was advertised for at the time, ask for the shop to refund the difference between what you paid and what was advertised.
Keep any evidence of the mistake, if you can - for example, you could take a photo of the advert in the shop window.
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18 hours ago, alvinlwh said:
Does that work in reverse? What happens if the receipt price is lower than the sticker price?
Say nothing!
In the UK the law is fairly the same, it’s ticket price regardless of mistake. How well that stands up IRL is questionable but those are your rights. I learned that when I did a temporary contract at the Co-Op supermarket 15 years ago. I’d assume it’ll be much the same now.
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36 minutes ago, 87lc2 said:
Forgot all about that guy, thanks! That might be a bit heavy (with the plastic add-on parts) for my purposes but definitely an option, thank you.
It would be heavier that a 100% lexan body. If needed I can weigh it for you later if you want. Mines unpainted and still in the bag but the difference wouldn’t be a whole lot I wouldn’t imagine. it really does look fantastic.
I think Proline do a 13.9” Chevy crawler body as well but it’s coming in a good bit short.
How big is the Cen F450/250? Surely theres a way to fix the cab and bed together(shoo goo and screws maybe).
Edit: scratch that, the Cen f450 is over 17” now I check and 16 for the 250
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Good luck with the repair!
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I’d say you’re on the right track.
Probably is very repairable if you can get the right part.
Have you got the model number of the Rx or blown component? -
No worries, I was doing exactly the same thing a couple of years back and found that Traxxas Ultra and GTR bits are somewhat interchangeable.
There’s a progressive T-Maxx shock spring too, TRX4957R.
Removing old tyres
in Build Tips and Techniques
Posted
Yeah, t-8000, e-6000 and shoo goo, all fairly similar glues with slightly different properties though all should do the job. I use T-8000 as it’s free for me.
As for those tyres, I’d jus chip and cut if you want to save the rims. It’ll be tedious but maybe less likely to damage or melt them.