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ad456

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Posts posted by ad456

    going LIPO - is it worth my time?

    in All things electric...

    Posted

    @Wooders28 totally on point there on all counts, I was totally afraid of them and wound myself right up about it. Eventually educated myself properly(without the peer pressure to just jump in or the scare mongering of fires) and i use lipo bags to charge and a roller toolbox to store and a few years later I'm much more relaxed about it. I am guilty of charging/discharging without standing over them, albeit in a steel box in the shed. I'm so glad I did as it really is night and day over nimh. That said I still use nimh for a lot of my cars as some just don't really need the extra power for me, but for the models I felt that needed it suddenly they were sooooo much more fun!!

    Yeah, various chems have different properties indeed. I understand of all LiFe is by far the safest but have much lower voltages.

    going LIPO - is it worth my time?

    in All things electric...

    Posted

    There are many different technologies of lithium batteries. Lipo, LipoHV, Li-ion, LiFePO4, IMR, INR, NCR are the ones I know of. Most will be familiar with the first couple.

    IMR is the tech in the 18650s I use for my vaping as they are less likely to go crazy if I miss treat them slightly, only slightly though.
    The Lipo we use for rc are likely the most volatile as we put them through some of the worst treatment in our cars, jumped and rattled, knocked and bumped, over-discharged sometimes etc.

    The ones in phones are likely to be a different tech to them. Anyone remember the Samsung Galaxy Note 7 recall of the entire series? What a mess that was. 

    And the hoverboard thing? 

    And as @alvinlwh has experience of with his vape mod (and I’ve seen the aftermath of that in person) it can go wrong.

    For the most part Lithium is safe and when it isn’t it’s really not. To each their own choice, or “Risk-assessment” and I respect that. If you’re anxious about it then store them with extra safety measures or avoid if you don’t want the hassle. It’s all down to everyones own want and need. 

    I like my Lipos in my cars as the power is a big difference. 
     

    One thing to remember is ANY battery, NiCd, NiMh, Lipo can go wrong

    Wanted: Tamiya HotShot Stickers (Original)

    in Sales, trades & wanted

    Posted

    I know you’re not after repro decals but there is a UK/Spain based guy on eBay called Tamiya-reprodecals who does a lot and has 6600+ sales and 100% feedback. He’s upfront about materials etc and has an email address on his profile. Might be worth a shot if you get no luck here, I’m not necessarily endorsing or encouraging, more a share of knowledge if yer stuck. 

    • Like 1

    Plaza Japan query - UK buyers

    in General discussions

    Posted

    Yeah, but it’s a comparable price to the others now. No cheap rate like I believe it used to be but @alvinlwh has more history so can weigh in on that. 
     

    I mainly chose it because of who delivers it to me, in this case Royal Mail. Our DHL, UPS, Evri, DPD, etc etc are contracted out to smaller(but still not local) businesses(Streamline, Menzies and Northwards). One contracter is owned by a Norwegian firm if memory serves right. Anyway, because Orkney is a bit/lot remote then the couriers use the ferries and they aren’t always everyday, dependant on route so take 3-10 days extra. It’s just the cost of living here, no big deal for me.

    Anyway, the point of that is that my delivery times will not really be much to go from given my location. 

    • Like 1

    Custom Solid Axle Monster Build

    in Monster Trucks, 4x4, Wheelie Rigs and Crawlers

    Posted

    Awesome build, looks class and can’t wait to see the progress. 
    Tyre softness is a massive part of the suspension on a solid axle truck, I have vented the tyres my Mod Clod to get the damping right on it. I use 10wt in my shocks and the tyres take the initial shock and the shocks smooth out the rest. Those tyres you have, while looking good, might not have enough tyre to soak up the hit. I can drop mine from 6ft and it doesn’t bounce, just plants down.

    I’d second a shout for @87lc2 to lend experience on this. 

    • Like 1

    Parts storage system

    in Anything not RC related goes here

    Posted

    80 litre rubs for wheels and tires, 40 litre with smaller tubs(ice-cream, butter, etc) inside for other parts. Old chest of drawers for body parts, one drawer for motors. Those wee drawers in a plastic frame for hardware etc. 

    Batteries and chargers go in a metal wheely tool chest to be a bit safer. 

    My biggest storage issue is where to keep the models!! I’ve got them under the stairs, in my wardrobe, in the attic and the shed. It’s a disaster. 

    On 12/8/2022 at 7:41 AM, Wooders28 said:

    During the summer, I emptied each one out ,took a picture on my mobile, and saved in a separate folder. Now when I'm looking for a part, I can have a flick through the pics, and at least see which box it's in! 

    Now that is pretty canny thinking!!

    On 12/7/2022 at 2:00 PM, markbt73 said:

    And I keep US and metric fasteners as separate as I can.

    I learnt this the hard way!

    • Thanks 1

    Forming plastic with heat

    in Build Tips and Techniques

    Posted

    I shall probably take time to make myself some forms and a mini bending break between now and Xmas and then permanently liberate one of the hot work stations from work when we finish for the year. 
     

    @WillyChang “real man’s hairdryer” love it! 
    the temp range is a great help too. Considering my interest in 3d printing I should’ve had the wit to look that up:rolleyes:

     

    @Willy iine I have tried that with questionable results which led me here but in time I dare say this will a go-to method

    Forming plastic with heat

    in Build Tips and Techniques

    Posted

    I’m trying to put bends in plastic sheet with a heatgun(it’s really a hot work station for micro soldering). Has anyone got tips for this?

    I'm not trying to create forms as such, just fairly straightforward 90deg bends and mild curves. I’ve got the gun set at about 100c at the moment. I’ll be using test pieces of Lexan, PET and ABS to practice which is probably most of the answer though I thought I’d ask to see if anyone has some wisdom to stop me wasting time and material.

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