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King Zulu

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About King Zulu

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  1. You're going to offend a lot people, but you're not wrong.
  2. Yup, just that one hole, all the other holes are in the right place. Just use the stock tower as a template, attach it to the new tower with a couple of screws/nuts, and proceed to drill. This will allow the body mount to be perfectly centered.
  3. I'm not sure if you need spacers to make the Hi Caps work, but you will need to drill a hole through that tower to use the stock body mount. You will also need to trim down a small portion of that tower to make the body mount fit flush. The brace does not come with countersunk holes to mount the rear shock assembly, you will need to countersink them. You might as well as get the rear tower while you're at it, Fibre-lyte is top quality.
  4. Jon Gillham. The Monster Beetle's fix is cheap and easy, MIP's diff is around $60 bucks. Hi-Caps will cost you more than that for the Super Astute. The Super Astute does not work well with silver cans, a stock Novafox will eat it up all day for lunch. A silver canned Grasshopper with bearings will eat up a stock Super Astute with a silver can, unless you're savvy enough to replace the kit's spur/pinion gears and find the proper ratio...
  5. It literately needs everything upgraded, it is pure garbage compared to any real race ready buggy in 1993.
  6. The re re has a ridiculous amount of flex everywhere, and it wasn't a bother for me.
  7. The brand new GTodd x-axis torsion bars are awesome, now available through Thommo.com. lol jk..
  8. Not even debatable that it reduces the (Y) flex by over 40% on the Y axis, the X axis flex is a non issue with the Super Astute.. Torsional flex from ball cups? My bad, i forgot to calculate that .001th of a inch.. This was just a mockup, all pointless X axis's have been secured..
  9. A simple way to reduce the flex in the front end, i actually found a better way but i'm just sourcing out the parts now.
  10. I used the 54505s in the front and rear. Its a bit much though.
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