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King Zulu

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Posts posted by King Zulu

    Tamiya 47381 - Super Astute (2018)

    in Re-Release Discussions

    Posted

    2 minutes ago, dannymulder said:

    No offend for the people that own this car, but what is the thing with this car, when  look at it and then the price to me it is an just an overpriced 2wd buggy and I find it ugly, cars as the avante or egress I can see why there are expensive this one not or it had to be come with gold gears or something.

    Simply I can see why it cost so much if I compare it to other cars like an topforce or other 4wd buggies that cost less or a zahhak, maybe it is just me but I don't get it.

    for that price there are a lot nicer cars to buy something like the kyosho  2wd scorpion, beetle and so.

    You're going to offend a lot people, but you're not wrong.

    Tamiya 47381 - Super Astute (2018)

    in Re-Release Discussions

    Posted

    9 hours ago, Jonathon Gillham said:

    Is that just one hole in the centre of the mount?  Comparing the 2 that appears to the be the only difference, but thats assuming the other holes are all in the right place

    Yup, just that one hole, all the other holes are in the right place. Just use the stock tower as a template, attach it to the new tower with a couple of screws/nuts, and proceed to drill. This will allow the body mount to be perfectly centered. 

    • Like 2

    Tamiya 47381 - Super Astute (2018)

    in Re-Release Discussions

    Posted

    13 minutes ago, Jonathon Gillham said:

    Ok, last question, honest. This build has got out of hand but will be a good result.

    Do I just need the Dyna Storm front tower to convert to Top Force Hi Caps at the front? Or is there a spacer or something needed to fit the tower too?

    Since I'm ordering the shock tower from Fibre-lyte, should I get anything else while I'm at it? Not the chassis, thats too expensive, rear tower or that brace? Or are they just nice to have?

    I'm not sure if you need spacers to make the Hi Caps work, but you will need to drill a hole through that tower to use the stock body mount. You will also need to trim down a small portion of that tower to make the body mount fit flush. The brace does not come with countersunk holes to mount the rear shock assembly, you will need to countersink them. You might as well as get the rear tower while you're at it, Fibre-lyte is top quality.

    • Like 1

    Tamiya 47381 - Super Astute (2018)

    in Re-Release Discussions

    Posted

    Jon Gillham.

    The Monster Beetle's fix is cheap and easy, MIP's diff is around $60 bucks. Hi-Caps will cost you more than that for the Super Astute. The Super Astute does not work well with silver cans, a stock Novafox will eat it up all day for lunch. A silver canned Grasshopper with bearings will eat up a stock Super Astute with a silver can, unless you're savvy enough  to replace the kit's spur/pinion gears and find the proper ratio...

    Tamiya 47381 - Super Astute (2018)

    in Re-Release Discussions

    Posted

    15 hours ago, GTodd said:

    "some flex is good as a too stiff of a chassis makes things really twitchy" Pretty stupid statement right there folks, since most tracks where dirt back in the early 90's and we experimented with batteries/motors/pinons/slipper clutches to alleviate that . The stiffer the better (ask any female), the Super Astute is a great car, just be prepared to drop money into it if you want to be competitive..

     

    Tamiya 47381 - Super Astute (2018)

    in Re-Release Discussions

    Posted

    1 hour ago, Jonathon Gillham said:

    Is there anything the Super Astute needs upgraded or is it ok out of the box? I guess I mean 2 things - essential items like the Monster Beetle needs its diff sorted. The other is the nice to have but worthwhile, like Hi caps for the Top Force.

    I was thinkinh hi caps with the dyna storm shock tower, but is there anything else? Is the chassis thta flexible that money would be well spent on a carbon chassis?

    It literately needs everything upgraded, it is pure garbage compared to any real race ready buggy in 1993.

    Tamiya 47381 - Super Astute (2018)

    in Re-Release Discussions

    Posted

    On 4/3/2019 at 10:18 AM, GTodd said:

    Very nice build up, great parts selection. Respectfully I’d like to add that I dont think your modification is going to do anything for reducing flex. Due to the ball cups and the fact that the servo mounts aren’t tied together the chassis is going to be able to flex in the X Axis still.

    Additionally I’d like to add that some chassis flex is ok, it’s one of the reasons AE went back to a metal chassis in the RC10 instead of graphite before switching to the plastic composite chassis they run now.

    Not even debatable that it reduces the (Y) flex by over 40% on the Y axis, the X axis flex is a non issue with the Super Astute.. Torsional flex from ball cups? My bad, i forgot to calculate that .001th of a inch.. This was just a mockup, all pointless X axis's have been secured..

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    • Like 1

    Tamiya 47381 - Super Astute (2018)

    in Re-Release Discussions

    Posted

    7 hours ago, King Zulu said:

    Please try fitting a rear wheel and see if it clears the front outer part of the suspension arm and pin with the hub in that location ?

    Thank you, good call, they do not fit. I've tried 1mm in the back and they still rub, 2mm fit fine. I believe 1.5mm spacers will work as well, i just do not have any to test it out. 

    Tamiya 47381 - Super Astute (2018)

    in Re-Release Discussions

    Posted

    1 hour ago, GTodd said:

    The big bores look very nice! What kills them for me is the requirement to run a taller shock tower up front. Can you add internal spacers to make the big bore shocks work up front? I experimented by using short CVA shocks upfront and they were fine after a few internal spacers were used.

    I actually bought two sets of rear dampers, there is no way they would fit up front without a taller shock tower. I'm using the taller Fyber Lite tower up front and its fine. I think someone mentioned that they had to use spacers up front to make them work with the stock tower. I also raised the rear shock tower, i think if i kept it in the stock location, i would have needed at least a 2mm spacer. The stock CVA shocks shouldn't need any internal spacer unless you're using different springs. I believe someone also mentioned that their front CVAs were bottoming out before the chassis touched, mine never bottomed out though..

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