Jump to content

Lee76

Members
  • Content Count

    376
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

448 Excellent

About Lee76

  • Rank
    Member

Recent Profile Visitors

582 profile views
  1. I second this, I’ve been doing this a while, only comment I’d add is it can take a long time to dry it can stay soft for days and will shrink a bit so leave plenty of time before sanding, I have a few where I’ve had to re-fill my finger nail impressions because I’m impatient . Thinking out loud.. I wonder if you can melt and pull the material like how aerials for model tanks used to be made, then soften the sting in styrene cement and use this as a filler bead... I might try this one myself next time.
  2. Might be worth talking to these guys? They do custom mixing and I read somewhere they might help with identifying paint colours too. You might have to invest in an airbrush though.. I bought some orange from them a while back for a matt version of the Jaegermeister colour.
  3. Probably the opposite given it’s not 1 /10 scale tarmac.. not enough surface contact.. have you tried it on a smooth floor to see it it behaves the same?
  4. Need to re-name this the green with envy thread.. I’m happy for you... honest
  5. Not needed, the purpose of the bearing is that the inner race spins relative to the outer race. Ideally there would be no rotation of the outer relative to bore or inner relative to shaft, this movement would induce wear. Normally bearings would have a press fit outer and a clamped inner race (or visa versa) if there is a large gap between the bearing and the housing or shaft, grease could actually hold bits of grit/dirt which will become a wear paste.. All that said, for Tamiya RC cars, if i got grease on the shaft the bearing was on I’d probably not bother to clean it and press on with the build.. I’m lazy and I imagine the amount of running I do the car will out live me by decades...
  6. Here is my die cast loft find Ferrari.. 308 GT it says on the bottom, but to me it’ll always be the red car which did jumps repeatedly into a pile of bricks (grew up on a building site with dads self build). I had this since probably since late 70’s early 80’s. The err.. detailed engine is still in place and if you look closely there is what could have been chocolate squished into the storage space under the hood. It has now been passed on to my 4 year old who will no doubt care for it in the same way I did. I have pretty much no interest (or knowledge) in real cars, but could totally get into making scale models, especially if any turned out like that blue lancer, absolute top job there, looks awesome. I’d be happy just to have completed one of those wheels and have that on the shelf!
  7. I have the same speed controller in all my cars and the exact same transceiver (though on a grass hopper) I confess to not reading the instructions and doing nothing other than plugging it all in and then having to switch the throttle from normal to reverse...so it didn’t run backwards other than that I did some steering trim.. but nothing else. MB is a lot of fun to drive, I run mine on flat ground, very short bowling green style grass.. it’ll corner pretty much flat out, the unloaded front wheel will bounce like a *** part of the fun, I put this down to not having enough droop, when you lift the car off the ground the wheels don’t drop, so when the car rolls slightly it will leave the floor. I’ve chatted on here about it before, and one day may try some mods to rectify, but possibly on a second car so this one can remain original and pretty
  8. I tightened mine so there’s about 1-1.5 pitch of thread visible (see pic) there is very little play (if any) front to rear with it off car. Once installed the bent metal piece is to stop the front uprights from rotating in or out (towards front and back)whilst still allowing vertical travel, if in doubt, tighten them flush then once the whole front end is assembled check the suspension travels vertically freely and tighten till you don’t have the forward and rear ward rotation.
  9. @Badcrumble yeah I can totally see me doing exactly as you explained... to be honest I totally enjoy the building part more than the driving, at least for the off road kits I have, crawling round the garden might be something I can do all year round with the child having ago too.. so if I go too far scale I wont want him to get his dangerous and destructive little hands on it... I had a quick google and found somewhere making an axial transmission case with replica engine attached.. this could definitely be a cash hole!
  10. That’s a good breakdown of parts! Plenty of reading up to do. I ele the raw builders kit for this isn’t too expensive either and variable wheelbase.
  11. Yeah, I can see me having to get one for running and don’t mind mashing up a little and one for brand loyalty that’ll look good on the shelf. Great looking shots in the show room btw.
  12. @Mad Ax Thanks, that’s some great information, I’m going to take a few read throughs to digest this and start a shopping list!
  13. Watching the game? Perhaps, but definitely not from the stands with the common folk. Leather chair in the coaches box with your name on it.
  14. Happy birthday! Ive nearly finished my candy green goodness... just have the painting to do. I kept mine stock apart from the bearings, it’ll only get some light running on flat grass avoid jumps and hopefully remain looking mint... well that’s the plan.. i did buy a spare basher body..
  15. Thanks for the response, the tundra looks great, I quite like that the tyres aren’t too aggressive and look a little more scale. When you refer to gearing, I know nothing.. Are there actually electronic actuated shifters in the gearboxes picking new ratios or is it just an electronic switch telling the speed controller to operate in different speed modes? Does the bruiser switch between 2wd and 4wd from the remote too? I’ll have to have a good look over the tundra manual now.. I’ll hold off begging for any hop up lists until I know which way I’m going
×
×
  • Create New...