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  1. Ok, and finally, where does your metal plate start. Mine was not the full length of the platform. my metal plate extends only from approx half way and then overhangs. so front of speaker box not on metal plate but just the plastic platform. just trim the top and bottom of speaker box edge a couple mm and it’ll be cool. cheers russ
  2. ok, so i wonder how your holding the speaker box in place. I did not mount on anything, instead i drilled a hole straight through the back corner away from speaker. Dissasembled the speaker to drop in a bolt and re-assembled. Put the speaker in place with bolt dangling through hole and through hole in the thin metal plate. I passed a screwdriver through the top hole in speaker box into the head of the bolt inside, so i could tighten against a nut i held underneath the metal plate. Also, although i didnt need to, i guess you could shave a few mm of the top of the speaker box. Also, i seem to remember two versions of speaker box included, but i may be wrong. Does your speaker box protrude much higher than the MFC when it is on its side ?
  3. Hi Martin, This was along time ago and I recently sold the truck so hard to remember, but maybe I did some or all of the following: I think there was a hole for the ariel which was thick on the inside, so i cut this out and filled. Its possible that I trimmed the silver legs or the white golf tee supports. The metal plate\support i used was super thin, approx 1 or 2mm I was still able to get the battery out easily. When fitting the body, it did press tight down on the MFC and possible slightly flexed the thin metal support. I certainly remember applying a little pressure for the out side holes to line up...but nothing at all extreme...only slight pressure. The roof and body all looked very nice and square and not bowing. It was all very easy and really surprised Tamiya dont recommend doing it this was, so as to keep the cab interior. It was very natural fitting Good luck Russ
  4. Hi, Now selling this truck on eBay. You can read about it here: Cheers
  5. Hi, These trucks dont require anything special. I just use the Futaba S3003 servos for steering and gearbox. They seem to have enough torque for carpet etc. No extra grease is really requied as couple of tubes in the kit and I am fairly liberal everywhere. Servo saver, at least I presume thats what it is , is in the kit. I would suggest a full ball bearing kit from ebay for around £15. Just type in your model number and 'bearings' to get a few come up, Cheers Russ
  6. Hello Everyone, So this is my second truck after the Grand Hauler. The Arocs tipper, with actuator for rear bed and MFC-03 unit. 56357 and 56545 and MFC-03. Came out really well, and I gave it a high level of attention to detail with multiple coats of paint and clear coat etc. Managed to hide the cables from rear to front well too. I put in extra indicators near bottom of doors as had some spare bulbs. I also attempted to give it a full cab with dashboard and seats and nearly managed it, by cutting down the support for the MFC-03 unit and rotating the MFC unit. However It does allow the cab to shut within a couple of centimetres, but to get it to close I would need to cut of the bottom of the dashboard quite considerably and I gave up. So really the glass needs to be ‘smoked’ now to hide the wires. It’s the most intense kit I have done, even more so than the tanks and previous truck due to amount of cable and lack of good instruction, but looks awesome now and the paint really pops. Now its for sale in the usual places so I can move on to the next project Cheers Russ
  7. Here are the instructions for teaching Transmission positions - good luck
  8. Hello, Here are the instructions. Basically get it to teaching mode. Then progress through teaching each gear position and 'save' each position. Good luck.
  9. Hello, I'll pdf or take pictures of the transmission teaching instructions asap... Cheers Russ
  10. Hello, The MFC manual should have instruction how to set the gears to stop grating. You will need to read it 5 times before understanding. Basically set 2 certain trims to max on the transmitter and then power the truck up. It will enter 'teaching' phase. Then you can move transmitter leaver to engage first gear and SET that position...then you do 2nd ands third gear. Once finished, when you move the transmitter sticks it will make the servo move the amount that you programmed....... Of course you need to make sure the servo can throw all the way to first and third. So suggest extending the rod or move it to outer hole on the horn. even if it initially binds, and then do the programming. When you do the programming you will stop it from binding as you will have told it when to stop for each gear. Sorry to ramble, and good luck Russ
  11. Hello, I am a long time modeller, although not very skilled. I have constructed a few Tamiya 1\16th tanks, but fancied something else, so got the Tamiya Grand Hauler with MFC. Of course I wanted to have the MFC working and still have the cab intact with the driver. I found it easier than you might think as it all fitted into the sleeper section at the back. I simply put the MFC up on its edge and made a small slim extension for it to rest on, although not really required if you used a few strips of velcro on the back of the speaker. Make holes in the cross sections of the frame to run cables neatly otherwise you get massive unsightly mass from back to front. I also wanted more of the lights to work instead of leaving them blank as your only meant to use certain lights dependant on if you use MFC 1 or 3, i think. I simply wired up extra leds to the working ones. I also added extra head lights. Anyway, its all pretty simple, apart from the spraying which I i found difficult to do in a non dust free environment, however a little wet and dry fine sand paper on some rough areas and a respray and it came out ok. I used TS-13 laquer on top. No probs. Watch for runs. Enjoy the pics - hope they help someone, Cheers Russ
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