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Brian_Blessed

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  1. Thanks Balgaroth. I’ll describe what I did to get more space and see the pictures below. Please excuse the complete lack of correct terminology for the parts in question... I used a dremmel to grind away the tallest of the ribs that run across the battery compartment. The two tallest are the ones furthest at each end. Other than maybe the last millimetre or two at each end of the rib where it meets the wall I ground them completely flush with the tray. I left all the other bits that go under the battery as they were. The only other bit I ground down were the ‘circumference ribs’ on the underside of the battery clamp moulding. The corresponding rib on the top side of that clamp makes no difference to the battery space so left it alone. I made one adjustment to the ‘metal screw that has a hole in the top for one of the battery clamp clips to go into’ (I’m sure it has a shorter name!). Just backs it out one full turn. The combined effect of the above was more that needed to the extent that I used a piece of mountain bike innertube both under the battery and also on top (under the clamp). This took up the slack and gives it a bit of cushion. Or you could just take it a bit slower than I did and have a firmer plastic-on-plastic fit instead.
  2. Well that’s the main build complete. Thanks for all the help, everyone. Managed to get a nice snug fit for the battery by dremmelling away some of the battery support fins to lower it and then putting in a ‘carpet’ made from Mtb inner tube and also a piece on the underside of the standard plastic battery clamp. So looks stock but holds and large battery and doesn’t rattle. Set up the toe/alignment, finished the electrics. Gave it a quick test run without the body on (need to paint it etc later). Got to say - it’s pretty fast! Faster than I was expecting given the fairly normal/expected upgrades people do to get more power which had made me think that stock must be slow. Maybe it will feel slow after I get used to it. Last question before I get onto the body... I’ve added the lipo battery alarm... do it just leave it dangling loose in there or use some double sided tape to secure it? Do people have them as a permanent fixture of the car or loose?
  3. Rest of the chassis done now so will start on the electrics next. Quick question: do I need to use tyre cement? I don’t have any but will get some if required. The tyres are seated very securely but presumably it’s more to seal the air path so they don’t compress so easily?
  4. Great - I now have the knowledge to move on to the next phase of building. I'll report back with progress, or more likely more questions!
  5. Thanks Turnip. I follow all of that apart from the bit about the charge cable needing a female plug. The charge cable I have (pictured above) has the banana plugs going into the charger body and the plug end (currently m6) presumably connecting to the battery cable. If I put a female on the battery cable I'll need a male on the charge cable.... unless I'm still missing a vital bit of basic RC knowledge (which is likely!).
  6. At this stage I want to hook up all the electrics to check function and also centre the steering servo before fitting it all. So the immediate problem I have is to get matching plugs for everything. My battery leads came without a plug, my charge cable has an m6 plug (whatever that is), esc has a tamiya plug and I bought two pairs of what I think are Dean's plugs. Could someone check these pictures and confirm I'm on the right path or if not what I should buy to complete it? Particularly on the deans plugs they have a smooth connector that looks more like something you'd attach a crimp connector to rather than solder onto it. Not least because the battery wires are quite bulky relative to the size of the connector/pin that I assume I should solder it to. Is that normal? Anyone have a pic of a 'good example'? Thanks!
  7. So, when I said it was going to be a leasurely paced build I obviously wasn't joking. But I've started again and bought most of what I need to complete it. Transmitter,receiver, servo, battery, charger. I have questions though....
  8. An interesting read Collin, thanks. Nice work. So, it looks like a hard case battery is a go, but i will need to purchase the relevant connectors and also swap the plug on the Tamiya ESC accordingly. Ive also read about safety when charging Lipos, so will charge on a non flammable surface in a protective bag and also keep it stored in there when not in use. Am adding a battery alarm to my list too as ill be using it with the basic ESC until i go brushless in the future. Havent done much with it the last few days other than internet research. Its going to more of a leasurely paced build than some of the ones ive read about!
  9. Thanks. So, the core rc is tempting for knowing it will plug right in but am wanting larger capacity as i wont use the car regularly but when i do ill want long run times without messing on with multple batteries. Ive checked the dimensions of the tray area for the battery (142x49x27 max) for a rectangle hard battery so long as i dremmel down the curved fins to support a rounded battery. So the one above should be ok. But i do have another question about the battery... the image of it shows a cable that i can see at one end connects to the battery, but the other seems to end with heatshrink and... nothing. What am i looking at there? Do i need to solder on a tamiya type plug? Is there a simple solution? Also what is the small white plug for? Balance for charging and/or adding a battery alarm? By the way, i just got a shock at how much my shopping cart comes to for all the 'other stuff', about £250 / $300! (Other currencies available along with accurate exchange rates) Its an expensive business this when you need literally everything!! I guess there are cheaper options, but i dont want to buy again in a years time etc...
  10. Thanks for the replies so far. Pablo, perhaps i'll add a bit more flamboyant language to make it more like BB! "Marvelous! !" Grumpy, thanks ive found it and am halfway through it. Interesting. Turnip, that sounds reasonable. Ive tried it and think it was ok. Hard to tell precisely, but am less concerned now. Waterbok, looks good. I saw it mentioned in the thread grumpy highlighted too. I was surprised by how lightly attached it all is. Will add that to my list... Can anyone help with the bump steer question, or the compatibility / suitability of the servo, radio gear, battery i listed?
  11. In terms of the build so far, i have encountered 2 issues. 1 regarding the amount of material to remove to restore full steering lock after doing the bump steer mod (swapping the two front uprights over), and the other being the outer bearings falling out of the rear drive shaft hubs. With the front uprights, i can see that there is a little bit of excess screw sticking through that i can file down (see pic), but have read inconsistently that i also need to dremmel away plastic from the suspension arm. Ive searched a lot and have not found a clear and consistent answer. I only want to do that if its necessary. Should i wait until i have the steering all set up first to see how much lock im missing? With the rear bearings, it is only these ones that are loose in their housing, all others are nice and snug. Its the same on both sides and also if i use the supplied plastic bearings. Gravity and barely any shaking is sufficient for them to drop out. Presumably the hubs are fractionally too big? Is there a way of taking up the slack? Loctite? Rough up the outer surface of bearing/ inner surface of housing? I assume it just needs to be a higher friction than the bearing rotation resistance itself (im sure there is a better technical term)?
  12. So, this is how far i have got so far..... I am now getting close to the stage where i can't do any more until i have bought a steering servo, and at that same time i will also buy the radio gear and battery / charger. The instructions are vague on which types of servo will or wont work so wanted to run this past you guys first so i dont make a mistake. Also, with the battery, i intend to get a large capacity LiPo battery to enable 'long' sessions. My decisions also need to be in the context of my longer term plan to upgrade to brushless (mild power, 2S) so i need items that will work before and after that change. I also intend to use it just for fun, but do like good quality over cheap pricing. Will these be suitable before and after? (I am in Sweden hence my website choice for the links) Servo: futuba 3072hv https://www.autopartner.se/en/electronics/servon/futaba/futaba-servo-6-5kg-0-16s-hv-s-bus-s3152 Transmitter / receiver: Futuba 3pv pack https://www.autopartner.se/en/electronics/sandare/futaba/3pv-rattradio-r203gf-2-4ghz Battery: vapex 8000mAh lipo https://www.autopartner.se/en/race-shop/ackar/li-po-batteri-7-4v-8000mah-70c-efra2016 Plus a suitable cheap lipo charger.
  13. Hi. First post, first RC purchase and first build! So there is a lot i dont know, but ive wanted a Stadium Blitzer for 25yrs so its about time! So far, i have bought the kit (which now comes with a basic ESC), plus paint and a sealed ball bearing kit (might as well do it from the start). Otherwise, i still need everything else as its my first rc car, but we can come to that later.... Ill use this to show my build and also might want to ask questions as i go (i have a couple already).....
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