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  1. I have TB03 converted for front motor - similar layout to TB05 - and it handles well, too. TB05 needs some cutting, but it can achieve better articulation thanks to longer arms and driveshafts.
  2. Evo 4 onwards have 2.6mm hinge pin. They won't fit.
  3. All Tamiyas have charts at the end of the manual, both stock and optional gears, if that's what you mean. It cannot cover all possible combinations, since there are maybe hundreds for every car, but it's easy to make your own table in Excel for more specific combinations
  4. Yes, TL01/M-03 upright will be significiantly wider, as they are designed to stick out of rims so small diameter rims can be used. Long span arms have pivot point inside of wheel. How wide is space for uprights in rear arms? If it's 12mm, TA04 uprights won't fit - they are ~16mm wide, if I remember correctly. Maybe TL01LA uprights might be right choice? They appear to have right shape and they also should have some toe-in Or, you can go by way of long CVDs - TRF415 and TB Evo5 with reversible arms used 48mm swing shafts, from what you've said, they should be perfect fit. Wheel axles can be used from TRF414.
  5. Yep, older Tamiyas (+ TTs and XV) are slightly narrower, at 180-ish. Chassis with long arms are 185-ish, with 1A blocks. 1F adds about 4mm to that.
  6. No need to buy driveshaft, it's easy to get 5mm steel/aluminium rod and drill two 2mm holes in it. But MF01 has heavy rear end, so handling is far from ideal. Also, conversion to fullsize 1/10 makes it more expensive. My opinion on other mentioned cars: XV01 - easiest way to get rally car. Dustproof, good handling. But it's on heavy side and suspension mounts tend to crack easily. TT02 - cheapest, but needs some improvements. I'd go for TT02S, longer arms work pretty well offroad, they need just some filling to reach full potential, and CVA shocks, although shorter than ideal, are better than no shocks. Nobody mentioned TA01/02. Those make pretty good rally cars. However in times of square lithium batteries, they are a bit obsolete. I think that TB-series is worth mentioning, too. Although since 02, they are strictly onroad cars, they are pretty easy to convert (some filling here and there) All gears are covered, so they are able to run in dust. And front motor layout of TB05 is definitely interesting.
  7. It would be great if it was Philips. But where I'm supposed to get JIS scredriver in the middle of Europe? It wouldn't be Tamiya if it didn't have all plastic chassis
  8. Arent Evo rear arms significiantly wider, than TB01 and about the same length as front arms? These hubs are designed for short span arms, in the last photo is visible, that hinge pin is about 5mm further from wheel, than on front axle. TB evo uprights are closer in look to 50965 TL-01LA uprights, maybe those would be better fit?
  9. Maybe I missed something earoier in topic, but what's reason for TL01/M03 uprights? Won't they make rear axle about 1cm wider?
  10. It is possible, there are homemade 1:14 scale replicas of chassis with functional diffs. But I'm not sure what's their lifespan, it'd definitely need hardened steel gears, which wouldn't be cheap (those replicas I'm talking about cost several times as much as Tamiya RC trucks) But there's another solution - Pinzgauer is based of same idea, but it has bevel differential between axle bevels, which might by usable in RC. I think that Tatra concept would be great for Tamiya, since it uses lot of duplicate parts, which is ideal for plastic model. But since it's used by single truck manufacturer, it doesn't make much sense to produce it..
  11. You'd need two blue "center bevels" to achieve same direction of rotation. Then, you'd get something like Tatra backbone chassis (google that, interesting concept). I think it's a bit too complicated. I thought about this, too. But I'd use universal shafts between diff and wheel axle. With 200mm width, 2-3cm lift would be possible even with differential.
  12. 3mm suspension shaft, new bumper, new wheel axles, new bearing holders? It almost sounds like Tamiya wants to sell rebadged car from other manufacturer
  13. You can also use M05ra uprights to get extra ride height.
  14. Doesn't "metric 48p" mean 0.5? Since 48p is about 0.53 metric - It's too big difference, but 0.6 metric is interchangeable with 42p (some Traxxas gears) an 0.4 is almost same as 64p
  15. I was thinking of F104, because it can fit low RPM 540 motor or 380 with extra gearbox, which should provide enough power at low speed. Width isn't issue, gearbox itself is narrow, custom axle made from 5mm rod can place wheels very close to it (it just needs to drill hexes and wheels to 5mm) Non powered axles can be made similarly, no need to buy whole chassis. When I look at paris metro boogies, it looks like mini4wd. Is there something slightly bigger?
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