Jump to content

Honza

Members
  • Content Count

    300
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

286 Excellent

About Honza

  • Rank
    Member

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. TB03 had ball doffs as stock, but much more reliable than TB02 - with several upgrade options - TB04 gear diff, one-way, or TRF502 ball diff gear (12 balls), which gave me the best results. Tub with low sides wasn't an issue, and moulded flange around the edge helped to keep the dust cover on the chassis
  2. Found this TB02 on the internet. unfortunately, I couldn't find more extremes mods I've seem before racers replaced their TB02s with modded Xrays and XVs And this is my TB03 from 2014-2015 (sorry, I couldn't find better pictures) First, I tried to reverse the whole car to get more weight to the front axle. It sorta worked, but I didn't like the steering geometry and high CG So, I eventually ended up building my own chassis using shorty lipol to get more center-front weight distribution. Apparently I got the right Idea, since custom builds based on Xray XB4 drivetrain, with similar layout to mine, became popular a few years ago - like this one from TUX racing. Apparently, TUX are distributing their chassis, so it can be included in the list (I didn't know that before)
  3. Bump steer is caused by bad ratio of bottom arm, top link and steering link. For example, LA arms on TL-01 reduce bump steer, because the arms get close to the length of the steering links - the links stay the same. However, longer arms of the TL-01B version are still shorter than the steering links, so bump steer is still present. Equal length front and rear arms help on touring cars, they keep geometry changes and damper progression in similar rate on both ends of the car. I'm not sure whether they have same effect on an offroad car, since ratio of length between front and rear is smaller.
  4. I can't believe I forgot about it This car kicked off whole Scale RC rally thing here in Czechia and it was The rally car for years. Many people still race them today. Although, only the red gearboxes suggest it was a TA02 in the past (Photo from Embie Racing)
  5. In its original form, MF01X is too tail heavy, narrow, suspension doesn't really work well.. It needs lots of mods and its exposed motor and battery aren't really suitable for running in mud and dirt. I built one with mid motor and long suspension and it seems to handle well, but I didn't have time to race it yet. XV series got one important thing right - front weight bias. I think that only MST-XXX rally had similar weight distribution. Other cars on the list are basically just modded TCs. Which makes me thinking about other Tamiyas - TA07, TB05 and TC01 all feature front motor configuration, which might make them interesting rally cars, if other parts work too - which, for example, is not case of TC01s suspension..
  6. I think that such design would require several custom parts, while MF reuses nearly all parts from other models, with exception of two part trees of the main chassis. That's another thing where mid motor works better, the weight doesn't shift as much. It'd be cool if the battery compartment had its own section. That way, one could move weight bias front and rear as needed. It's true that current design allows for extremely short wheelbase - but I think it's just a happy accident 😀
  7. Huh, just found this old topic by accident. Having designed a mid motor conversion of MF01, I think I found reasons. Tamiya reused TL01 gears - however, with TL01 configuration, the motor would hang too close to the rear wheel. And turning the little "spur gear" to push motor more inwards is not possible due to collision with the shaft bevel gear. So they chose the simplest solution - throwing the motor behind the rear axle. It also provides better protection from dirt, but since the battery is right behind the front axle, I don't think it was the motivation. Why not front motor? @Nikko85 investigated this option in his topic - it seems that M-chassis suspension geometry limits space available around the motor. MF01X has flipped rear arms to make space for the motor, which also moves the dampers in the way of steering link. Also, even with modified gear layout, the motor still sticks too far outside for a FWD. So in conclusion, the main reason was cost-cutting. They just wanted to reuse as many parts as possible.
  8. @alvinlwh you're right, atleast reverse setup is the same Edit: only now I realised that it's not motor direction reverse...
  9. What ESC exactly you use? @alvinlwh posted TBLE02S instruction, I posted TBLE-04S. They are slightly different and the reverse function might be set up differently, too.
  10. As per manual: Hold the set-up button and turn on power. While holding the button, the led will cycle green-orange-red-green... Release the button when it's red. The LED should go out and then flash according to set parameters
  11. I finally did photo of the car with PETG parts (yes, cable management is still awful :D) Semi-transparent material I used, highlights all errors, but also creates interesting texture, visible here. I also did a crashtest.. I was afraid that part around the hinge pin will be the weakest point, but this is how production part would crack. Of course, material itself is weaker than production part, so I added some material.
  12. I wanted to write exactly the same, maybe I'd add DB01 buggy on the list of the best for the same reason. In case of worst, I wanted to write DF03Ra. DF03 wasn't good as a buggy, it was even worse as a touring car.
  13. I disagree, the Evo 5 is, to this day, the most beautiful TB chassis. Especially the one piece bulkheads, even though it must be a nightmare for maintenance. I wish I could get one for 100€ 😁 Looking forward to build
  14. You got me thinking about this. First, I thought it'd be impossible - there's just not enough space to move dampers closer to the motor to make space for steering links, due to reversed rear arms. But then I realised that years ago, I saw photos of FF mini with similar geometry. After some digging, I found it - Xevo FF (mini, chariot, not sure which name is the right one). One variant used suspension arms, similar to Tamiya IFS - conveniently, MF-01 might have body mounts just in the right place for that solution. Other variant has dampers parallel to the upper links.. and I still quite don't understand how that works 😂 Edit: unfortunately, there's still limitation in steering due to the motor sticking out...
  15. So, the project is not quite finished, but development of current model ended. It has some things to iron out, but they will be addressed in new model which will be drawn from scratch. Right now, it's printable and works, so I can finally share it https://www.printables.com/model/268346-mf-01x-mid-motor This model includes some modifications from the last model I printed (reinforced motor mount, motor moved 1,5mm to the left, reinforced suspension mounts), but hopefully I didn't make any mistake that would make it unusable. Let me know how it prints! Any feedback will be appreciated.
×
×
  • Create New...