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Honza

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Everything posted by Honza

  1. Alright then, have a nice day.
  2. . Deleted
  3. The #50823 is same as TT-01 axle in the picture. #50808 is the longer one. But that'd require downgrade to dogbones. I found #54394 WR-02 universals mentioned before, they appear to have the long thread and 39mm drive shaft - would those fit to XV-02? TL-01 dogbones would add 1mm under the hex, and since the swing shaft is longer, you could use a 3mm inner bearing to add another milimeter.
  4. For dirt, camber setting is not that important, so it's more "set it and forget it", for tarmac, you can run without arches. "TC-pro" version didn't have arches out of the box. It's a Tamiya. It's a miracle that it can fit a square lipo. Sad, but true. I think that's consequence of the front motor - they are already quite upright and cannot be more angled due to the motor cover.
  5. 3D printed parts will probably never be close to fibre-reinforced moulded parts, but ABS/Nylon/PC parts of cheaper Tamiya kits seem achievable. With right settings, some materials have Z strength pretty close to other directions - layer adhesion Is probably the biggest weakness of home 3D printing. Right now, I got some PCTG, which supposedly achieves great layer strength with other mechanical properties being close to ABS - I broke number of PETG front arms this year, so I'm quite curious how it turns out. Rear half of my MF-01X held well whole rally season, although it was driven relatively slowly. I got a Prusa MK4 this summer and I'm quite happy with it. Only weakness is lack of enclosure for materials that require more heat - ABS/ASA is printable, but larger parts will warp. If you're considering ender 3, go for V3SE. It's superior to older versions, but it's not much more expensive. But Bambu now gives the most bang for the buck - however I don't have a good feeling about their push towards cloud services - that's personal preference though.
  6. I finally had some time to work on the project. Today I printed parts that are pretty close to the release model. I also disassembled the current version to check internals. You can see some dost got in, but nothing too bad. The gears are worn a bit, but they'll work well for another season. Spur damage caused by loose pinion. I'll reuse it as well. Now to the build of new parts. The new design is more optimised for printing, all bottom surfaces are bridges to reduce amount of support material. I'm quite happy with the finish, considering it won't be visible. New gear holder, now fixed in three points around the gear - I could hear some gear skipping on the previous version, this solution should be stiffer. With differential, fan and the other gear in place, the gearbox can be closed now. The diff case is clamped together by the suspension mount. I added M3 nuts, since I expect that this part will be changed quite often. The motor mount is now mounted from the outside. This makes maintenance easier, and opens possibilities for modifications, like aluminium motor mount. That's something I want to do in the future, but for now, ASA plastic will be good enough. And gear cover fitted. All went together with M3x10 screws only. I found some snall issues during the assembly, that need to be fixed, but afterwards, I can finally release the model files
  7. WR-02 does have longer thread, plus the axle is 1mm longer. But I couldn't find the universal wheel axles. XV-01 uses the longer axle in the rear, XV-02 has same axles all around, so this might work on all corners. The part is also available as a spare - #19804648 Square also sells universal shafts with long threads, but I'm not sure if they sell the 37mm variant needed for XV-02.
  8. CC-02 axles won't fit, they are made for 1510 and 1260 bearings. What about using rear XV-01 axles in the front? Instead of wider hexes, you would use a spacer - 2,5mm, iirc. Another milimeter could be gained by using a thinner inner bearing.
  9. I printed mine on an Ender 3 It can be done in PETG, only weak point is the suspension mount - one of the reasons why I made the V.2 with a separate mount, which, if works, might allow me to print whole chassis in the future.. Then It might be possible to print even the chassis you explored on the previous page
  10. What FDR are you aiming for? 212mm WB could be achieved with the mid motor variant after minor mods (very small on V.2 ๐Ÿ˜) But slowest FDR is 8.3, since it's aimed towards rally/onroad. It would be nice to know how it handles less conventional conditions.
  11. Rally of course. ๐Ÿ˜ But I'm thinking about getting a buggy, since there's a track nearby
  12. I use "print" button "make" submenu which allows to send the mesh into the slicer directly. You can choose bodies or components, including the whole file. I often export everything at once and then divide it to objects in the slicer.
  13. Ah, yes, the B arms are more than 200mm
  14. What size of SCT? Wouldn't be TL-01B arms better? Anyway, GF-02 arms are 19115576, CB arms are 10115859
  15. Yes, O-ring keeps the dog bone end in the center of the cup, while urethane bushing allows for some movement. Diff cups are generally a bit longer to allow for that movement.
  16. What annoys me the most is knowing what Tamiya is capable of in quality of chassis, but instead of upgrading, they keep downgrading. TL-01, M-05/6 were entry level chassis, but they used polycarbonate chassis, metal drivetrain parts and nylon arms. What replaced them? TT-01/2 and MB-01, all ABS, with plastic hinges, plastic dogbones, plastic everything. Even the reinforced upgrade bathtub is still ABS. Midrange kits have better quality, but instead of making a more affordable racing chassis, Tamiya focused on developing the most quirky design possible. Again, downgrade compared to the cars they were making 15 years ago, but there are at least some bright moments here and there. What annoys me the most is my country's distributor, who doesn't even import midrange chassis and spares.
  17. @wtcc5 XV-01, but I'll keep only its gearboxes ๐Ÿ˜
  18. I missed this thread, as I don't visit the re-release forum very often. I really enjoy your builds, they are quite close to what I do myself and they are great source of inspiration Coincidentally, I'm just working on a new project that will use the same gearbox internals, but in very different way Tamiya's modularity sure is a great thing.
  19. Over the weekend, I was working on a cad model of XV-01 gearbox for my next project. Today, I tried to print the diff cover to check dimensions. I think it turned out great Even though it's just a replica of a stock part, it's still awesome to see your designs materialize, even after years of owning a 3D printer
  20. I took a second look in both manuals and it looks like they reused part of the CB mould, the parts tree looks identical. Hopefully that means that the arms will be cheaper and more easily available, I'd have some use for them as well๐Ÿ˜ btw, I like that the manual got released as a vector pdf. I'd wish to have more manuals in that quality, it's great for references.
  21. I just checked Comical Avante manual, it uses the same 48/45mm combination, so the arms should be similar.
  22. The arms look similar to comical chassis. They are definitely longer, since kit has 45mm driveshafts for the rear axle and 48mm for the front axle
  23. I remembered this topic, when I was working a new project. Crazy ideas keep coming. This is the latest one ๐Ÿ˜€
  24. Just wanted to write that. The closest thing to classic Tamiya FF, that's still available. FF-04 is basically an FF XV-01TC with carbon chassis.
  25. Thanks! Well, the driving is fun, drying the car afterwards, not so much ๐Ÿ˜€ Although the receiver is in a box and ESC should be waterproof, I don't like driving in wet conditions.
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