Honza
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Posts posted by Honza
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51216 are 45mm between center of pins, if I measured it correctly
50939, used on TA05IFS, should be ~48mm
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7 hours ago, Juls1 said:
I’m sure it’s possible to make the TB05 off road, but a XV01 is built for that, and it’s handling is way more fun than any touring layout. Gearboxes are sealed for off road use, slipper available if you want it.
that being said if your hearts set on TB05 I don’t have any problems with you getting one and cutting it up for off road use.
I have TB03 converted for front motor - similar layout to TB05 - and it handles well, too.
TB05 needs some cutting, but it can achieve better articulation thanks to longer arms and driveshafts.
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On 10/26/2019 at 2:31 PM, svenb said:
Are these of any use?
From a tb evo iv
Evo 4 onwards have 2.6mm hinge pin. They won't fit.
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All Tamiyas have charts at the end of the manual, both stock and optional gears, if that's what you mean.
It cannot cover all possible combinations, since there are maybe hundreds for every car, but it's easy to make your own table in Excel for more specific combinations
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Yes, TL01/M-03 upright will be significiantly wider, as they are designed to stick out of rims so small diameter rims can be used. Long span arms have pivot point inside of wheel.
How wide is space for uprights in rear arms? If it's 12mm, TA04 uprights won't fit - they are ~16mm wide, if I remember correctly. Maybe TL01LA uprights might be right choice? They appear to have right shape and they also should have some toe-in
Or, you can go by way of long CVDs - TRF415 and TB Evo5 with reversible arms used 48mm swing shafts, from what you've said, they should be perfect fit. Wheel axles can be used from TRF414.
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Yep, older Tamiyas (+ TTs and XV) are slightly narrower, at 180-ish.
Chassis with long arms are 185-ish, with 1A blocks. 1F adds about 4mm to that.
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43 minutes ago, Juls1 said:
But you need a cut down TL01 driveshaft to do it, these driveshafts don’t exist to buy, you’ll have to gut a whole second hand TL01 to get one
No need to buy driveshaft, it's easy to get 5mm steel/aluminium rod and drill two 2mm holes in it. But MF01 has heavy rear end, so handling is far from ideal. Also, conversion to fullsize 1/10 makes it more expensive.
My opinion on other mentioned cars:
XV01 - easiest way to get rally car. Dustproof, good handling. But it's on heavy side and suspension mounts tend to crack easily.
TT02 - cheapest, but needs some improvements. I'd go for TT02S, longer arms work pretty well offroad, they need just some filling to reach full potential, and CVA shocks, although shorter than ideal, are better than no shocks.
Nobody mentioned TA01/02. Those make pretty good rally cars. However in times of square lithium batteries, they are a bit obsolete.
I think that TB-series is worth mentioning, too. Although since 02, they are strictly onroad cars, they are pretty easy to convert (some filling here and there) All gears are covered, so they are able to run in dust. And front motor layout of TB05 is definitely interesting.
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6 hours ago, lsear2905 said:
Yay. Phillips' head screws. C'mon Tamiya.
It would be great if it was Philips. But where I'm supposed to get JIS scredriver in the middle of Europe?
2 hours ago, tamiya3speed said:Was not expecting plastic frame rails. Interesting selection for sure.
It wouldn't be Tamiya if it didn't have all plastic chassis
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Arent Evo rear arms significiantly wider, than TB01 and about the same length as front arms? These hubs are designed for short span arms, in the last photo is visible, that hinge pin is about 5mm further from wheel, than on front axle.
TB evo uprights are closer in look to 50965 TL-01LA uprights, maybe those would be better fit?
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On 9/1/2019 at 8:11 PM, TwistedxSlayer said:
TL01/M03 hopup rear uprights now this is where it gets a little more interesting
Maybe I missed something earoier in topic, but what's reason for TL01/M03 uprights? Won't they make rear axle about 1cm wider?
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22 hours ago, Juggular said:
Differentials in the central tube would be nearly impossible with an RC version.
It is possible, there are homemade 1:14 scale replicas of chassis with functional diffs. But I'm not sure what's their lifespan, it'd definitely need hardened steel gears, which wouldn't be cheap (those replicas I'm talking about cost several times as much as Tamiya RC trucks)
But there's another solution - Pinzgauer is based of same idea, but it has bevel differential between axle bevels, which might by usable in RC.
I think that Tatra concept would be great for Tamiya, since it uses lot of duplicate parts, which is ideal for plastic model. But since it's used by single truck manufacturer, it doesn't make much sense to produce it..
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2 hours ago, Juggular said:
Couldn't below give enough ground clearance?
Just an idle thought.
You'd need two blue "center bevels" to achieve same direction of rotation. Then, you'd get something like Tatra backbone chassis (google that, interesting concept). I think it's a bit too complicated.
I thought about this, too. But I'd use universal shafts between diff and wheel axle. With 200mm width, 2-3cm lift would be possible even with differential.
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3mm suspension shaft, new bumper, new wheel axles, new bearing holders? It almost sounds like Tamiya wants to sell rebadged car from other manufacturer
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You can also use M05ra uprights to get extra ride height.
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On 8/7/2019 at 5:01 PM, speedy_w_beans said:
Unfortunately there are a few pinions listed as metric 48p, which is a complete misnomer as the measurement can't be both at the same time. This confusing terminology usually means the gear is actually 0.6 mod.
Doesn't "metric 48p" mean 0.5? Since 48p is about 0.53 metric - It's too big difference, but 0.6 metric is interchangeable with 42p (some Traxxas gears) an 0.4 is almost same as 64p
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I was thinking of F104, because it can fit low RPM 540 motor or 380 with extra gearbox, which should provide enough power at low speed. Width isn't issue, gearbox itself is narrow, custom axle made from 5mm rod can place wheels very close to it (it just needs to drill hexes and wheels to 5mm) Non powered axles can be made similarly, no need to buy whole chassis.
When I look at paris metro boogies, it looks like mini4wd. Is there something slightly bigger?
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If you don't need steering, suspension etc, M-chassis is too complicated. I'd use rear pod from F103/104, no differential, simple axle with exact width you'll need. Real trains use very similar layout, so it'll have some scale aspect, too.
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Tamiya alu&carbon cassis are always beautiful. Great build
On 3/17/2019 at 7:34 PM, casethejoint said:Different colour dogbones, not sure why (different metal?).
Yes, front dogbones are made from some sort of hardened steel, they need to be harder than rears to withstand large angles and vibration caused by steering. Blue are made out of aluminium to save weight.
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It depends on how clean is place where you plan running. If there's lot of rocks, chance that some get into belt is pretty high. If there just some pebble here and there, you can run it safely.
Shaft drive is safe to run even in sand and dust, which would kill belt drive without additional covers.
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On 7/7/2019 at 2:38 AM, Shodog said:
I’m getting radio interference so I’m not sure if it’s the way I have the antenna mounted or having no motor capacitors.
If you mean those small ceramic capacitors, then yes, brushed motors generate quite a lot of interference without them.
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On 7/6/2019 at 2:22 AM, nbTMM said:
TB03R is $410, TB04R $461 and TT02S $156 where I am. That's a lot of dosh ($300!)
Weird prices, TB05 pro costs 190USD on rcmart vs 115USD of TT02S. TT02S lacks proper steering with bushings, adjustable motor mount, adjustable rear toe, universal shafts and sealed differentials. TB05 sounds like better deal. And it has option for front motor position, which is nice feature.
Maybe you should compare base TB03/04, if you can find any, not R-version. Base versions are closer to TT02S.
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6 hours ago, nbTMM said:
Logic would have it that if it's perfectly linear from 0 to 200, it would be unexpected that it would deviate far from linear at 500mm/s as that would then be quite a non-linear behaviour overall.
Well, fluids acts non-linear overall. It can be expected that there will be point where turbulence occurs and drag increases significiantly. They didn't reach speed needed to show that behaviour, because test was about different thing.
CVAs have large hole area, which needs high viscosity oil to achieve atleast some damping effect. And high viscosity fluid keeps laminar flow for longer. TRF piston should, at least in theory, requie lower viscosity oil for same damping effect, which should develop turbulent flow sooner, which is also aided by higher speed of fluid caused by smaller area of holes.
And that's what I need, because when I set damping force to keep car from bottoming out on jump, it's too stiff for small bumps.
EDIT: this pdf confirms what I thought. Interesting pages are 15 and 22, where is shown non linearity caused by high speed and low viscosity respectively.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-9Xopgk6BDNeTBRMEVkcnFDZ28/view
8 hours ago, Juls1 said:Both CC01 and GF01 damper kits come in roughly the same length as CVA mini
Thanks for tip, CC01 dampers look good and affordable. Are plastic parts (nylon guides) replacable by TRF ones?
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5 hours ago, nbTMM said:
The only time they observed any deviation from linear is when they used actual valving via flexible seals. The only time they observed inequality between compression and rebound damping is when the holes in the piston were heavily chamfered/tapered.
So in conclusion: science says that a CVA can perform identically to a TRF damper since they are both linear dampers, just need to pick the right oil and/or piston hole configuration.Did you read summary at end? They didn't test high velocity when dampers "pack" - if I recall corectly, packing is when flow changes from laminar (linear damping force) to turbulent (exponential damping). They aknowledge different performance during high-speed compression, but they tested C:R ratio during normal (linear) damping. Hole size should have effect on exponential damping.
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Well, 10% of price means i don't need to spend another 90% for fancy shocks
I need four dampers of CVA mini size for my rally car. Tamiya makes set of 4 cva mini, but no such set of TRF dampers. I'd need two pairs of front buggy dampers, which would be too expensive.
ball diffs for xv-01?
in General discussions
Posted
There's TA06 ball diff kit, 54306, that should fit perfectly into XV's gearcase.
FF03/TRF201 diff is narrower, you'll need some 5+mm of shims for good fit.