Honza
-
Posts
906 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Posts posted by Honza
-
-
2 hours ago, chris.alex said:
Do you think it is possible to use the XV02 wishbones, shafts etc in order to get a larger track width? Could be beneficial especially if you want to use tc cars wheels.
The suspension mounts are same, so it shouldn't be an issue. However, there aren't many options of 190mm wide, short-WB bodies.
Speaking of suspension mounts, looks like Tamiya is taking notes from the community - I've seen something similar to A6 parts sold by Embie racing as a tuning option for XV-02 😁
-
2
-
-
3 minutes ago, Rinskie said:
I understand the rear motor on the chassis interferes with the fake rear motor on the body.
What if the fake motor is cut out?
-
1
-
2
-
-
@Pylon80 that's important part I forgot to mention - DCJ became a thing because of combination of high grip carpet and spool, where vibrations can be quite significant issue. Meanwhile I run 54° drift CVDs on my rally car (we have very tight tracks here) and I haven't had any issues.
-
2
-
-
@Alex97 thanks for the manual. Looks like it uses same TRF417 wheel axles as M-07, so there's still chance that uprights will fit the 2wd Tamiyas to make a rally version
but I wonder why Tamiya lists M-03 universals as an option, when they are 1mm longer.
I wonder what went wrong with the hardware bags, I've never had an issue, it always has been lego-like experience.
The chassis is definitely a step-up from MF-01X and looks great. Still, I'm not fan of XV-02 design due to upright battery, I think there are better designs for a 4wd M-chassis.
31 minutes ago, Alex97 said:I've added some extra blue bits but considering the price I'd like to have seen blue hardware included as well as a few upgrades to justify the price tag.
Unfortunately that's how Tamiya is with prices nowadays. If they added more blue stuff, it would be in R kit range with minimum performance gains...
I would like the opposite - a cheaper version similar to M-07/8 - plastic CVA shocks, CVDs only on the front axle, I wouldn't even mind open diff on the rearaxle. Just keep the good plastic. And maybe throw a rally body on. That would be awesome replacement for MF-01.
Btw, can you check if large rallyblocks fit? A lot of people run full size tires on minis, if body allows it, since they perform a lot better, but it looks like there isn't a lot of space around the front axle.
-
1
-
-
The only difference between DT-03 and DT-03T are wheels and body mounts.. you could probably do a similar thing with TD2/4 to get the aqroshot body work.
Other than that, there was Asterion XV-01T kit, maybe there are still available somewhere
-
1
-
-
Huh, I realised I haven't shown my "FF-05" in this thread. Here's the build thread if anyone missed it
The chassis is sitting in a box, waiting for electronics, since I completed it. But I'm thinking about digging it up and making a rally conversion, since turnout of 2wds is quite low this season. That will require more of the red parts
-
3
-
-
4 hours ago, Alexei said:
i would suspect it could happen if the swing shafts hit max turn angle, but im not sure thats the problem.
That's property of universal joints. They add angle variation throughout rotation, which causes vibration. The variation becomes quite severe above ~30 Deg, which is shown in a graph bellow (from wiki)
Another graph, showing angular velocity variations (which result in vibrations)
4 hours ago, Alexei said:i tried without wheels, then it runs with no clacking and vibrations. i suppose i should try some other wheels and see what happens.
Withou wheels, there's less inertia, so the vibrations don't show up. Some lighter set of wheels can reduce the chatter. In the same way, a looser diff may help to spread variations between the wheels. But that's only dealing with symptoms, not the cause.
If you want to get rid of vibrations entirely, you'll need double cardan shafts. Those work by adding a second universal joint shifted by 90deg, which will compensate the angle variations of the first joint nearly perfectly.
-
2
-
1
-
-
@Alex97 wow, that was quick! It's unfortunate that there were such issues. It's weird that reviewers didn't mention this, especially this one:
1 hour ago, Alex97 said:Nothing is labelled in the box, the screws/hardware packets don't tally up.
The unboxing video linked earlier has shown traditionally labeled hardware bags. Could yours be some bad batch?
Hopefully it won't stop you from finishing the kit
Btw, would you check PN of wheel axles in the manual? I'm curious if they are compatible with existing models
-
3
-
-
I'm curious, has anyone tried to use TT-02S-type or SRX suspension on BT-01? I guess that the main issue would be the lack of rear toe-in, which would require either second front axle on the rear or active rear toe-in upgrade, which would be rather expensive.
-
1
-
-
On 5/21/2024 at 11:06 PM, cosworthwesty said:
Anyone got a pdf of the build manual yet.
Nope, but competitionX did an unboxing video where they list through the Manual. It's good enough quality to see how it's build, but not good enough to see PNs.
-
3 hours ago, SlideWRX said:
noticed after getting it all together that the bottom of the chassis at the front is VERY exposed.
That picture reminded me another useful part - #3485068 U-shaped hinge pin. That will reinforce the front so it'll be able to handle some jumps
3 hours ago, SlideWRX said:They seem to be 2-4mm too short for the front axle. I have two O-rings in the drive cup to keep the axle *hopefully* pushed in enough at the wheel end.
I recommend using foam on the inner diff cup - this suspension geometry may cause a lot of axial movement. In the future, CVDs or DCJs would save a lot of headache
3 hours ago, SlideWRX said:but suspension is done!
One thing I noticed here is that the front driveshaft is angled forward. You can't do anything about it due to arm shape, but be aware that this will cause it to lift the front on throttle and dive on brake.
-
2
-
-
Interesting project! One more advantage of M-03 is, that it's compatible with some TL-01B parts, that can come handy - apart from suspension it's front bumper and I've also seen rear shock tower extensions, that could come handy.
On 5/21/2024 at 4:37 AM, SlideWRX said:are the FF-01 through FF-04 chassis, and the odd numbered M chassis.
You forgot here the cheaper version of FF-04, which is XV-01
I've always seen it as a FWD chassis with added rear drivetrain (and always wondered, if you could add rear gearbox to FF-04 to create an XV-01 TC Evo)
1 hour ago, bsy2010 said:I'm racing an ORB Forward, a fwd buggy using lots of AE and my own parts, on loose clay and it performs very, very well.
Interesting, I remember this buggy from times when it was based around Durango and had motor in front of the axle. I should check out the development.
-
1
-
-
Another race
This time, the Mazda wasn't the only m-chassis on the start
Finally got to finish my own mini rally tires. They are old, slightly worn clones of Tamiya tires made of softer compound - they work much better than Tamiya's own tires.
Another, not pictured, modification is installation of stainless steel hinge pins - although it didn't help with front arms breaking, it at least held them together to get over the finish line.
I also involuntarily tested water resistance of THW-1060 😁
-
8
-
-
4 hours ago, skom25 said:
I think many people expected successor of TT-02 but we got totally wobbly chassis with strange design...
Exactly what could be expected from a TT-02 successor 😃 Sorry, I couldn't help it.
-
1
-
4
-
1
-
-
45 minutes ago, Howards said:
Which is really strange, because most of the other alloy bits are largely pointless, save for the rear suspension mount.
I noticed that, too, when I've been looking for alloy caster blocks. Maybe it's too complex shape to make a cheap part?
-
1 hour ago, CRC505 said:
This design is really great, I want to make one too
Thanks! Go ahead and share your build here, it's always great to see another build
-
1
-
-
1 hour ago, Alex97 said:
The TT02 diffs are pretty big compared to other 1/10 offerings. Perhaps using a 1/10 buggy diff or even a 1/16 buggy diff would allow you to have longer arms and more suspension travel.
It's based off XV-01, so it does have buggy diffs
I also didn't like the large diffs on XV-02/XM-01.
M-08 uses the same diff, so It should be possible to replicate this setup, (photo by @qatmix) with arms quite close to the diff.
1 hour ago, Alex97 said:I was disappointed when I saw the XM-01 has no droop settings, that might of been down to them having to squeeze a tt01 diff in there.
XV-02 doesn't have downstops either, even thou arms support it and all that'd be needed to make them work would be a slightly different skidplate.
Use of XM-01 arms would be shortcut that'd allow me using stock XV-01 gearbox bottoms and simpler chassis plate. But I like M-07/8 arms, so I'll probably do the more complicated route
-
2 hours ago, Wheel_Nut said:
noticed the XM-01 suspension mounts are located on the end of the pins which is typical of touring car racing chassis. Due to the wider spacing of the suspension mounts I think they are less likely to fail due to crash damage. If so, it could be an advantage of using the XM-01 style arms.
Yes, they use same suspension mounts as XV-01/2, which gives quite wide variety of suspension mounts. I assume they'll use fibre reinforced plastic as XV-02. The disadvantage is, that the arms have no droop settings and suspension mounts are wider than M-07/8 style, giving slightly shorter arm.
2 hours ago, Wheel_Nut said:The M-07 suspension mounts are available as fibre reinforced injection moulded parts from Tamiya, which I'd expect to be quite strong. I don't know if you intend on using these items from Tamiya. If making 3D printed suspension mounts, it could be a possible failure point, but it obviously depends on the material
For the rear, I intend using Tamiya parts. I can use M3 nuts or metal columns inside 3D printed parts they'll mount to to make them stronger.
For the front, I'm not sure yet, but using Tamiya mount could be a viable option.
This solution would provide longer arms and downstop setting, as well as easier rear toe-in setup. I intend to use XM-01 uprights, if they are compatible with M-07 arms.
-
1
-
-
It's been a while, but I did some work on the design. I decided to give a try to belt variant first.. and it looks like it could work. I still want to do shaft driven variant as well, I just need to get some TD4 parts.
Back in march, I even tried to print one of early iterations to test how it fits with stock parts. It does quite well
Still deciding whether I'm gonna use M-07 or XM-01 arms. I still like the former more, even though it means that I'll need custom gearbox bottoms.
-
2
-
-
10 hours ago, Tamiyastef said:
From what I've seen of it in action it's absolutely working better than any MF-01X
I meant specifically the high/low suspension settings. Overall, the car cannot be worse than MF-01 😃
-
1
-
-
20 minutes ago, chris.alex said:
I really like the option of adjusting the ground clearance. Reminds me of my MF01X.
That's why I thought that it's uprights would be useful for Rally conversion of M07/8, if it fits. Hopefully it'll work better than MF-01X 😃
-
1 hour ago, Alex97 said:
So it seems that they're reused the M03 axels on this.
Interesting, it would mean that its uprights wouldn't be compatible with M-07. No M-07Ra then 😭
Looking in the manual shown in competitionX video, it does seem that it re-uses older type of swing shafts with wrong geometry from M-03 set. But wheel axles are the newer type with retainer springs - have Tamiya ever released an universal set that would use those axles on M-xx, TT-02 or others?
It weird that they even show M-03 universals as an option, since it already comes with universals, but it doesn't show M-05 DCJ set.
-
1 hour ago, jonboy1 said:
I'm after some CVD's (or dogbones) where the pin to pin length is about 70mm. I've got some outer XV-01 hub axles and I reckon some 70mm long pin to pin dog bones should be about the right length to fit what I am after
I found 70mm CVD swing shafts under #19805979 - they are listed as spare to #53791 set @BuggyDad mentions.
The same CVD set is meant for DF-03, which uses #19805551 - so if you're looking for dogbones, those should be the length you're looking for.
-
1
-
-
2 minutes ago, Alex97 said:
I'd go for the reinforced M05 V2 arms with the stainless steel suspension shafts over cheap Chinese metal parts.
As a bonus, M-05 V.2 arms add the downstop option, the chassis is prepared for that.
Front differential case can also fit M-05/6 ball diff.
-
3
-
-1.jpg.ae4d4baa53408f7536c1207831948c42.jpg)
The XM-01 fanbase or general info on this new pro chassis 58738
in General discussions
Posted
What's F/R weight distribution? Looks like all the heavy components are in front of the centerline, so it might be usable as a FWD.