Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by J@mes

  1. Sections 15 to 24. This is the best bit so far. Screw bag B gets opened & the wheelie bar gets built. If if you are going to build one of these & you want to add the upper arm connectors immediately then it saves taking the tie-rods off if you do it between steps 19 & 20 as the tie-rod length is different to the manual, less toe-in with the connectors. manual states 1mm gaps on tie-rods all round. Connectors instructions specify gaps of 2.2mm rear & 4mm front. I don’t know why there is no mention of the connector hop up as an option in the manual. I acquired some thread-lock via a relative who was sent it as a mispick on an Amazon order. The seller didn’t want it back, result! There was need of it for the counter sunk screw in to ball connector nut in section 18 on the steering linkage, the only metal on metal in the build so far. & here’s an action shot with the blue thread-lock already applied to the connector. Section 22 to 25 is the AA battery case and electronics set up so I’ll jump to section 26 next.
  2. Cheers! Good to know. I missed out the really exciting bit amongst all those photos of the manual, building the diffs. They’re good fun.
  3. Tamiya kit free tool fans get 3 hex wrenches in this one. On to sections 4 to 14 of this 42 stage process. Next up are the axles, C16 with a half a dog bone secured by a grub screw. Then C8 and C15 attached by flexing the plastics to pop the joints together. There’s a lot of play & like this a powerful motor might cause issues, hopefully the Sport Tuned won’t. Hubs attach to a harness with the smallest springs I’ve seen on an RC kit in my limited experience. Theres a hop up option to build the diff with reinforced gears. 2 required making it a serious investment. I used the kit parts. C1 came off the sprue really nicely without requiring further trimming by just twisting round & round between thumb & forefinger. The back section is much the same and the whole thing assembled at this point looks like a robot chicken according to Mrs J@mes
  4. Hi @Grotty Otty thanks, this thread is at your request! The dancing rider is growing on me since starting the lunchbox mini. As @wolfdogstinkus already said no speedo in the box. I am going to use a quicrun 1625 purely because it is a fair bit lighter than the TBLE02. I took the aa battery thing outta my kart at ordering for numerous reasons, got me the Arrowmax lipo which is designed to fit & will hopefully not blow up/ catch fire/ murder me in my sleep
  5. Kit laid out: Manual section 1 to 3 - assembling the gearbox. First up is the light grey A parts, A9 is loose in the bag, plus 2x G parts which have the bushings and press on pinion as well as all the gears. This is an option heavy model. I counted 7 mentioned in this manual (springs twice). 1st one is bearings: There’s a little tube of grease supplied, of course. 2nd option is an 18T pinion which requires an adapter to fit the motor (a high torque servo saver is also suggested at this point). The Sport Tuned 370 motor comes with the required adapter but isn’t mentioned as a hop up. The motor screws in to A3 which in turn screws in to A2 & I had to rotate the gears either side until it meshed & dropped in to place.
  6. Woke to find the cat had been sick on the box for my SW-01 lunchbox. Urrgghh ruined BOTHER THAT CAT!
  7. I started on the body 1st. Stickers finished tonight. It took ages! I saw someone on YouTube say they built the whole thing in 1.5 hours, it took me 3 hours to do the stickers!
  8. My 1st 1:24 scale RC model is this ‘Star Unit Comical Wheelie Series’ version of the LB which I had to get as soon as I saw it. Also ordered hop ups: 54900 bearings 54860 370 Sport Tuned 54898 Upper arm connectors 54831 T3-01 Rear wide wheels x2 54830 T3-01 Rear wide semi slick tires x2 The T30-1 wheels & tyres are a gamble as I don’t know if they’ll fit. The chromed wheels are deeper by 6mm and taller by 4mm. The matching tires are lower profile and 10mm shorter than the kit ones. There’s a set of pin spike tires available which have a matching set of wheels available on a different code. It is not clear why the 2 types of tires require different wheels. The wheels on this kit are screwed on with a machine screw & the hop up wheels have a 2.6mm dia. Where the kit is 3mm so I’ll have to drill them out, if they fit. After having a look at the content if the boxes I got on with cutting out the shell. The arches are pre cut and the shell painted, nice! Once cut out I sanded the edges with 400 grit wet & dry paper and removed the protective film ready for stickers. This shell is going to be box art.
  9. I got the shell cut out & sanded the edges. Having the body pre-painted with the arches pre-cut as well is luxury!
  10. I am cursed when it comes to running my cars. Here’s a few examples: drove my Bush Devil off a walk in to the ocean, return spring on my TX snapped, BL sensor wire damaged (twice! & with no visual damage) wow those things are fragile! But builds, on the other hand, always seem to go smoothly
  11. J@mes

    Pumpkin MK1

    It looks good as is, the spotlights would look better with some decals imo
  12. Coincidentally continuing the battery posts with ‘My 1st Lipo’ (not from Fischer-Price)
  13. There’s something special about that Paris Dakarr Rally Porsche 959 It gets my vote
  14. £175 from 1984 is £560 today @junkmunki would a rere cost more?
  15. Yes! https://www.timetunnelmodels.com/live/catalog/advanced_search_result.php?search_in_description=0&keywords=SW-01 Always been very happy shopping at www.timetunnelmodels.com they are great for the little stuff too
  16. Just ordered one of these after reading the thread I couldn’t help it
  17. Quite surprised how much this went for (not bought by me)
  18. In my experience their stuff comes quicker than the quoted time. Expectation management I suppose.
  19. Blackfoot got cleaned, sand is a bitch. AWG + sand = crunchy metal eating paste
  20. Hmm... sanding & repainting plus decals from MCI racing would be 1 option or you could buy a new shell for £18 and save some work. The new shell is from a rere Blackfoot & yours (if original) will be marked up as ‘Super Blackfoot’ got any pics of the body?
  • Create New...