CKU87

😅 Oh my god, these cars are awesome! Really impressive, nice and clean build cars! Thanks for the pictures and will check your page immediatelly! Did you paint your rims by yourself? At least I can see three coulours, black, like a gun metal grey and the original silver!? Good to know regarding the chassis, thanks! Then I can go ahead and buy the Wild Willy set as this is a stock WR02. Yes I have seen the WR02C is more the onroad Version for the Honda City Turbo only it seems. The WR02G has the smaller front tires and the Comcial Variants of the WR02 and the GF01 are a different anyway. Anyone doing the WR02C front axle upgrade on the stock WR02? At least to me the B9 looks more robust than the screwed E6 and E2 part. But then the front tires of wild willy wont probably fit I assume as they go on the ball bearing instead of the axle pin like with the Honda?

Thanks a lot. One more thing as I am also building up a WR02 for my girlfriend. On which WR02 chassis was the Jimny released back then? I get confused with all the different types WR02, WR02C, WR02G then the CB…. I do notice slight differences in the manuals, e.g. in some models there is a spacer mounted between the wheely bar and the chassis and in other manuals the front is entirely different, e.g. Wild Willy Front vs Honda City Turbo Front.

Thanks everyone for your replies. Yes I agree, not much is needed here probably so I will be skipping the skid guard and safe some money. Would you recommend tire foams for the spiked tires of the dump truck? I read that they are softer than the wild willy tires, so was wondering….

Hi everyone, just ordered a new GF-01 Landcruiser which I will be building over christmas. Realy excited and hope to get the kit in the next days. I was planning to use the Landcruiser Body and also paint a Jimny Body for it down the road. I will also add some tuning. So my first purchase was: - 58589 GF-01 Land Cruiser Kit - 2 x 54394 Universal Shaft - 2 x 53218 Hard Coint Cup Set I am about to release the next purchase and was planning to get: - Tamiya GT Tuned Motor - 54734 FRP Battery Mount - 54924 Full set ball bearings - 53509 HFC coated 20T pinion (was thinking to go one higher since the 25T GT Tuned has some nice torque) - 2 x 54586 Light Gearshaft - 2 x 9805619 Wild Willy Rear Tires I am not sure about: - 53571 TRF Aluminium Damper Set. These are the silver ones of the blue anodized 42102 Dampers. I would prefer to have a silver look on the dampers and get some colour from the spring set 53440. However, it appears that these dampers are longer than the recommended set 54640 for the WR02 and GF01. Does anyone have the 53571 in use or know if thats a good fit. - 54796 Aluminium Guard. I understand that i cannot mount the spring loaded front damper when i use the guard set. Only mounting it without the springs. Would you recommend going this way? It will be a basher so hard use for sure. Any other concerns or recommendations about the upgrade parts? Would really appreciate your thoughts!

Hi! I cannot comment on the B8 part. In my point it was not necessary for me. I have only updated my Terra Scorcher with the A5 part. The metal gear in the Diff needs some running time. What I do is to hang up my cars for a few minutes, fix one tire with a duct tape and let the car run on 50% speed with no stress on the drive line. I repeat that for the other two wheels as well. This lets the car run smooth. However, make sure you have cleaned up the E3 gear parts properly as they are cut from the sprue. I always sand them and make sure they are perfectly round and balanced. Otherwise they cause some noise and stress. Also, make sure you have glued the tires. They also baloon and imbalance the car. Hope this helps. At least these are my impressions.

Don’t worry too much about this beauty...the A5 metal part sold on ebay is sufficient if you don’t go crazy with the power. I run a GT Tuned on TEU 105 Bk with the 17 teeth steel pinion from the DT03. Just about perfect.

Hi all, does anyone know if the Terra Scorcher is already discontinued? Unforunately I can't find a kit anymore in Germany. Best

Haha that’s so true, last time I painted a TT02 chassis and got some paint on my arm. My colleague asked me what happened to me. I was surprised and told him that I did some work at home What should I say? That I build a RC Car kit? Sometimes I think they wouldn’t understand at all, but then again there are moments where I think that more people should actually build a kit just to learn some very important basics...planning, patience, etc.

Love the look 😊 Meanwhile the new decals arrived and I corrected my mistake. Have now a few stickers as spare 😅And that was a great tip with the number 5 sticker. I made two cuts and works perfect. Got also the first pieces of the front high cap dampers. Springs are on the way, so hopefully will be ready by the end of the week ☺️

Hi everyone! The whole world talks about the corona virus ... however, the virus that hit me is named Tamiya. Luckily it is not attacking my health but rather my wallet, which still stinks What I want to know is, how do you plan your collection when looking for new purchases? There are two things which interest me a lot. Spare parts First one is spare parts. Do you know from your experience already upfront which sparts will become rare in the future and brake more often? Is there a nice list that shows the weak spots of various Tamiya models, e.g. if you purchase an Avante, get at least an additional front gear box case because you will break yours most likely when running. Do you purchase spare parts? If yes, only one item or sometimes even more? Or do you sometimes even purchase a complete new second kit, just for the case and potential resale? I read in one comment that Tamiya is the "Lego" equivalent to RC Cars, which is why I like Tamiya so much by the way. Do you have a, lets call it "General" parts box, that includes all the common pieces which are present in so many Tamiya kits, e.g. Gear Diffs, Screws, tie rods, etc.? Platform strategy When you purchase your Tamiya's, do you look out for the platform? For example, would you only purchase a TT01/02 chassis instead of a TA/TRF/TB series car or the M-Series, because you have most of your parts available for TT series which are more likely interchangable? Or you would rather buy an Egress instead of a TRF Buggy because you already have two Avantes which shares the same platform, similar parts, more overlap for spare parts, etc., kind of economies of density? If so, what was your experience? Did you find out what onroad or offroad chassis family worked out the best for you? Have you ever considered not to buy a new model because it was a whole new chassis design for that reasons? Don't really know if those questions make sense or if anyone ever had similar thoughts. I still would be happy to hear your thoughts.

Ah thanks Yes, the "s" makes the difference Thank you for the clarification!

Hi, the CLK GTR comes on a TT01? That means 257mm wheelbase. I remember there was once a release on the TA03 chassis, which was 237mm wheelbase, correct? So there are two versions of the CLK GTR body? Thank you

Oh thanks, yes this looks brilliant Just started to collect the bits for the Egress front dampers! Thats the way I will go. Thank you!

Here we go! It just looks amazing I think. I love this car! So here are some details: 1) Dont be a fool like me and order the black Egress wheels, they will not fit! 2WD vs 4WD / Hex vs Ball Bearing I am still looking for a nice wheel that could fit and look similar to the old one. But, it must be Tamiya, I have a Tamiya addiction 2) MCI Decals are great, I am very pleased. I messed up the blue sticker above the race number "5" sticker. You will see it has no white borderline, whereas the other blue sticker do have a white contrast line. It was the first blue sticker I cut out, and I realized my mistake later. I must however admit that it was hard to see the white lines on the MCI sticker sheet. Anyways, a new decal set is on the way to me and I will correct my mistake, plus I will have some spare sticker parts 3) Okay, here is the thing with the race numer "5" sticker. It is the only sticker that was hard to apply and the sticker curls a bit. I guess I have to use a heat gun to get it in shape. Lets see, from the new decal set I will also reapply the start numbers with a new method. 4) Shocks, Shocks, Shocks... I did the math for the yellow parts and I might take them in the future but I would love to see the high caps on it. As you read, the new High Caps are to long in the front. I refrained from using the Dyna front shock tower for two reasons: First is, I need to drill a new whole in the middle of the FRP part to make it fit. Second is, I dont like the looks. The front looks out of proportion, but thats just my personal impression, no offense against anyone using the dyna shock tower, I assume they work amazingly well. However, this car will be a light driver for pure fun only. Another option could be the DF03 dampers (53926), but they are pricey and I think the color will not match to the retro Astute look. Lets see, project continues.

Yes, its the same aluminium housing for front and rear that was in the set (47358). However, the piston rod is 39mm in the front (9804650) and 49mm in the back (9804189). Will post picutres of the process soon, but the car is on stock shocks now. I wonder if I could just use the front housing of the Egress (9804649) and make my own mini high cap version for the front.