CKU87

I know this sounds stupid and many people will shake their head when I say this, but the fact that I cannot mount the On/Off switch to its designated location already makes it unattractive for me. As I said, if you want to keep things all Tamiya, you really have a hard time. But I think I might go with a brushless setup then and just use the TBLE02S. Thanks

Thanks everyone. Yes, you are right probably, but I have this obsession to keep most things Tamiya and so far I had only used standard size servos, mostly Futaba - which I know and trust from good old days. Unfortunately, their Low-Profile servos are super expensive and not worth it for my mildly run cars. Admittedly, I never bought anything from brands like Hobbywing, etc. I just don't trust those brand being around for a couple of years and then disappear. Most of them are just the same but rebranded. But Futaba, Tamiya, Kyosho, etc. yes sure, anytime Also, I am not looking for a super fast low-profile servo. I prefer servos that are a bit slower than these new crazy fast HV servos. What is the BEC rating of the TBLE 02S? Might also go with a brushless combo here, using my NiMH packs.

Hey everyone! I was looking for a new Low-Profile Servo for an upcoming build. I planned on buying the TSU06. Now I see that it says its not compatible with TEU302BK and TEU105BK. Since I am using a GT Tuned Motor, I was planning to use a TEU105BK ESC, which I have a lots of units lying around here. What is the point here? The ESC has a BEC build in, but does that TSU06 draw so much power? What are my alternative options? Savöx 1251/1252? I doubt they would work. They have basically the same specifications...?! Thanks

Yes, another run of the Super Astute is really what I would love to see.

Thanks all. Yes this is what I was expecting. You have to fiddle around to make the solution work...buy new parts and the build goes into 400 Euro plus region...which then isn't really worth this chassis. I can add a couple Euros then and go with the CEN M Sport (which I will not because it's not a kit). Or just take the TT02BR - but then it's only a TT02 and I was looking for a more challenging build. The problem is, that as a rally car I take some bumps on the road constantly, which makes the car wobble and jump. That alone is enough to engage the drive shafts as one can see also in some YouTube videos. Too bad, it really is a design flaw. I don't know what it is about the XV01, but it never appealed to me. I would then probably stick with the XV02RS and build rather an onroad car or just really buy another Egress Black Edition, this time for running. You see, pretty indecisive and I need to place an order soon to get the kit before Christmas 😒

So I was about to place an order with the XV02 Pro kit to have some fun around christmas building and driving. I feel like the popping drive shafts are a serious issue with this kit and that there isn’t really a solution to it. Any thoughts? Is the RS version better in that regard? Thanks

Hi, I am looking for a TEU 302 BK speed controller. Will pay up to 120 USD/Euro depending on the condition + shipping cost. Please reply if you have a unit. Thanks

Yes, dont ask. The hop up parts have cost me more than twice the price of the car.

@joeling Sorry for the late reply, I was abroad for a couple weeks and didn't check here on the forum. This is an excellent question, but I haven't seen any aftermarket alloy part for the steering so far and since I stay "purely" with Kyosho for this build, I was only interested in their hopups. So maybe there are some third party manufacturers, like Xtra Speed and Yeah Racing (https://tamico.de/Kyosho-Optima-Javelin-Spare-parts-and-Hop-Up-parts). As for Kyosho original hopup parts, they list OTW143 (HD ST Link Set) in the manual. Also, I was always in the opinion that the servo saver OTW114 is an original hopup part, but unfortunately the manual does not list this part, so I skipped it. To risky to spend the money on it to find out it won't fit. @Kai City RC Maybe the Japanese manual does list it? What is interesting is that the official Kyosho Optima Mid video, uploaded from Kyosho Corporation on Youtube, does show an alloy servo saver. You can clearly see it at minute 09:07. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dbMnSbi7hSQ Never found or seen this part anywhere! Oddly enough, there is also the opposite case. I recently found a part (OTW 145), which I have never seen in the manual or any other documentation. Here is the link: https://tamico.de/Kyosho-Optima-Mid-CNC-Rear-Suspension-Holder To be honest, it is really frustrating with the lack in documentation. I can only assume that they (Kyosho) are tight on budget and lack people to review and crosscheck their documentation. Too bad if you ask me. It is the same with the Kyosho Ultima. Go check their official video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tHmrKIU5LAQ) and compare it with the option parts list in the manual. It is a nightmare. Anyways, meanwhile the LeMans Motor (15.5T) as well as the CVDs have arrived. So hopefully I have some time in the near future to start the build.

This is a fake. I am from Germany, I know the market here and theses prices will not work. They also say that they are a trustee partner in market, which is completely nonsense. Apparently you can reach them by email, chat and phone. Nothing of these is available on their website. Also, the address doesnt make sense as well, there is no such road in the town they mention. Edit: Looking deeper into the website there are hundred more red flags. To make it short: Please stay away from the website and do not burn your money.

Wow, haven't been online for some time and a lot of responses! Thanks everyone this was helpful. Some more parts arrived in the meantime, including a spare body. More than happy to post some pictures once the car is done. Still lacking the OTW125B, however, they are really hard to find at the moment. Yes, too bad they discontinued the ESC, I am not really a fan of fan-cooled ESCs. And in the Mid, the Le Mans ESC makes a lot of sense, since the bottom plate has two holes for the perfect mounting of the ESC. But I agree, its not the price I would normally pay for an ESC. But special cars need special treatment I am really hoping that we see a LWB Mid re-release! I would agree with @Mrowka they are the same parts only an optical upgrade.

Can anyone say what light sockets I could use to apply the flat BH Motors decals to the Wild One Blockhead Edition?

Thanks @Kai City RC By the way, I love your YouTube channel! It was my go to place when looking to buy my first Kyosho set. About the LA43H/R: Could this be a printing error in the manual. It seems that I either find the LA43H (Hard) ball ends, or the LA43R (Red) ball ends. I haven't seen or found any "hard" and "red" combo. Neither as a set nor on any Optima Mid build. Or is the manual to read in the way that you can either choose between the hard and red variant? As one can see, the collection is growing. Still have a big order in the mail...including the Le Mans 240S combo (ESC and the 15.5T motor). Also, according to the Kyosho website, the Le Mans 240S ESC is discontinued: https://rc.kyosho.com/en/37051.html I was a bit surprised to see that. Considering the re-release strategy from Kyosho, this will likely not be the last Kyosho Legendary car we see. So I wonder which Sensored Brushless ESC combo they will advertise in their future releases.

Hi everyone, just received my new Optima Mid Kit and already looking for some tuning parts which I want to accomodate right from the beginning. I havent opened the kit yet (its sitting at home and I am on a business trip at the moment) and I have some hard time to follow the instructions about some option parts. The carbon and aluminium parts are clear. 1-S34010HT: These are five M4 Titanium screws that go into the front gear housing, holding the top plate, right (manual step 33)? Why was that an option part at all? I would unterstand a Titanium screw kit for the entire kit, but changing only two screws? Or do I miss something? BRG007F: Am I right in the assumption that these go into the steering link (manual step 23)? So purchasing OTW143 should already have both included? BRG002: Also manual step 23. I assume they replace part OT267/5. But why would I need four of these bearings? Or is it just the fact that they are only sold as a kit consisting of four? UTW008: These are only two more options between medium and hard for the back dampers, right? OTW125B: They are out of stock everywhere I looked. Does anyone know if they were discontinued? OTW135: Does the Optima Mid have front stablizers? Or does this set only mount to the back of the car? EDIT: Okay my mistake, this set is for both front and rear. UM516: What is the advantage these slipper pads give compared to the standard kit ones? W0201H: Again, whats the advantage of these? Lighter? More durable? LA43H/R: Is this a stronger plastic component compared to the kit one? Would you use them only in combination with with W0201H balls? I must say, I find that despite the Optima Mid was such an asked model from the RC community, there is barely and information on the 2022 re-release...

Thanks everyone. Well, I dont mind much about the painting, I think I can manage that. But its really about the cutting of the lexan body, especially this one. It has some really difficult lines, weird holes, etc. Let's see, maybe I give it a shot and if it turns out to be bad, I can still purchase a new body kit for 50 Euro, which is still okay I guess... Edit: Does anyone know which knive this gentleman is using starting from minute 45:04? I could imagine that cutting with this technique might help me a lot...

Hi, a dream came true when I finally bought the Kyosho Optima Mid Kit. This kit will be for display only and I have a couple of designs I am thinking of for the body work. Unfortunately, cutting and painting lexan bodies isn't my biggest strenght. If anyone could offer the service for me, I am more than willing to pay for it. I was thinking to send the body with decals via parcel service. Since I live in Germany, anything within Europe would be my preferred option. Of course I would pay for the colors, masking tapes, the service as well as the parcel costs for re-sending it to me and other materials that are needed. Thanks

Never driven an M Chassis. How does it drive in comparison to the regular touring car size in terms of fun and simplicity in handling?

Hi, can anyone tell me if I need two damper sets of the long BigBore Aeration dampers from Tamiya for my XV02? Number is 54505. Or do I need one long set (54505) and one short set (54504) of the dampers? In a buggy I can understand the use of the different lengts but for the XV02, bot dampers are the same lenght.

For the Hornet it makes totally sense since it is based on a WR02 Chassis, but for the Comical Avante and the Comical Hotshot (both GF01) it is really odd. There must be a mistake on my end as I don’t think that tamiya produces two different D-parts with the same number… anyone else has an idea? or am i completely blind and missing something obvious? Edit: @GeeWings Yes, that would have been my next question…what are the holes for? Only thing I could think of was the G6 chassis, but then, the chassis of the G6 must have a completly different molding as it is much longer with 6 wheels…

Hey everyone, sorry to bring this up again but i need some more clarification regarding the GF01 and the GF01CB. According to the manuals, both chassis do use D Parts number 10008265. However, if I compare the pictures, the GF01CB does cleary have four left holes above where the bumper is mounted, while the normal GF01 has a flat surface. It just doesnt make sense to me, especially not since both have the exact same number…. can someone clarify?

😅 Oh my god, these cars are awesome! Really impressive, nice and clean build cars! Thanks for the pictures and will check your page immediatelly! Did you paint your rims by yourself? At least I can see three coulours, black, like a gun metal grey and the original silver!? Good to know regarding the chassis, thanks! Then I can go ahead and buy the Wild Willy set as this is a stock WR02. Yes I have seen the WR02C is more the onroad Version for the Honda City Turbo only it seems. The WR02G has the smaller front tires and the Comcial Variants of the WR02 and the GF01 are a different anyway. Anyone doing the WR02C front axle upgrade on the stock WR02? At least to me the B9 looks more robust than the screwed E6 and E2 part. But then the front tires of wild willy wont probably fit I assume as they go on the ball bearing instead of the axle pin like with the Honda?

Thanks a lot. One more thing as I am also building up a WR02 for my girlfriend. On which WR02 chassis was the Jimny released back then? I get confused with all the different types WR02, WR02C, WR02G then the CB…. I do notice slight differences in the manuals, e.g. in some models there is a spacer mounted between the wheely bar and the chassis and in other manuals the front is entirely different, e.g. Wild Willy Front vs Honda City Turbo Front.

Thanks everyone for your replies. Yes I agree, not much is needed here probably so I will be skipping the skid guard and safe some money. Would you recommend tire foams for the spiked tires of the dump truck? I read that they are softer than the wild willy tires, so was wondering….

Hi everyone, just ordered a new GF-01 Landcruiser which I will be building over christmas. Realy excited and hope to get the kit in the next days. I was planning to use the Landcruiser Body and also paint a Jimny Body for it down the road. I will also add some tuning. So my first purchase was: - 58589 GF-01 Land Cruiser Kit - 2 x 54394 Universal Shaft - 2 x 53218 Hard Coint Cup Set I am about to release the next purchase and was planning to get: - Tamiya GT Tuned Motor - 54734 FRP Battery Mount - 54924 Full set ball bearings - 53509 HFC coated 20T pinion (was thinking to go one higher since the 25T GT Tuned has some nice torque) - 2 x 54586 Light Gearshaft - 2 x 9805619 Wild Willy Rear Tires I am not sure about: - 53571 TRF Aluminium Damper Set. These are the silver ones of the blue anodized 42102 Dampers. I would prefer to have a silver look on the dampers and get some colour from the spring set 53440. However, it appears that these dampers are longer than the recommended set 54640 for the WR02 and GF01. Does anyone have the 53571 in use or know if thats a good fit. - 54796 Aluminium Guard. I understand that i cannot mount the spring loaded front damper when i use the guard set. Only mounting it without the springs. Would you recommend going this way? It will be a basher so hard use for sure. Any other concerns or recommendations about the upgrade parts? Would really appreciate your thoughts!

Hi! I cannot comment on the B8 part. In my point it was not necessary for me. I have only updated my Terra Scorcher with the A5 part. The metal gear in the Diff needs some running time. What I do is to hang up my cars for a few minutes, fix one tire with a duct tape and let the car run on 50% speed with no stress on the drive line. I repeat that for the other two wheels as well. This lets the car run smooth. However, make sure you have cleaned up the E3 gear parts properly as they are cut from the sprue. I always sand them and make sure they are perfectly round and balanced. Otherwise they cause some noise and stress. Also, make sure you have glued the tires. They also baloon and imbalance the car. Hope this helps. At least these are my impressions.