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Everything posted by CKU87

  1. Love the look 😊 Meanwhile the new decals arrived and I corrected my mistake. Have now a few stickers as spare 😅And that was a great tip with the number 5 sticker. I made two cuts and works perfect. Got also the first pieces of the front high cap dampers. Springs are on the way, so hopefully will be ready by the end of the week ☺️
  2. Hi everyone! The whole world talks about the corona virus ... however, the virus that hit me is named Tamiya. Luckily it is not attacking my health but rather my wallet, which still stinks What I want to know is, how do you plan your collection when looking for new purchases? There are two things which interest me a lot. Spare parts First one is spare parts. Do you know from your experience already upfront which sparts will become rare in the future and brake more often? Is there a nice list that shows the weak spots of various Tamiya models, e.g. if you purchase an Avante, get at least an additional front gear box case because you will break yours most likely when running. Do you purchase spare parts? If yes, only one item or sometimes even more? Or do you sometimes even purchase a complete new second kit, just for the case and potential resale? I read in one comment that Tamiya is the "Lego" equivalent to RC Cars, which is why I like Tamiya so much by the way. Do you have a, lets call it "General" parts box, that includes all the common pieces which are present in so many Tamiya kits, e.g. Gear Diffs, Screws, tie rods, etc.? Platform strategy When you purchase your Tamiya's, do you look out for the platform? For example, would you only purchase a TT01/02 chassis instead of a TA/TRF/TB series car or the M-Series, because you have most of your parts available for TT series which are more likely interchangable? Or you would rather buy an Egress instead of a TRF Buggy because you already have two Avantes which shares the same platform, similar parts, more overlap for spare parts, etc., kind of economies of density? If so, what was your experience? Did you find out what onroad or offroad chassis family worked out the best for you? Have you ever considered not to buy a new model because it was a whole new chassis design for that reasons? Don't really know if those questions make sense or if anyone ever had similar thoughts. I still would be happy to hear your thoughts.
  3. Ah thanks Yes, the "s" makes the difference Thank you for the clarification!
  4. Hi, the CLK GTR comes on a TT01? That means 257mm wheelbase. I remember there was once a release on the TA03 chassis, which was 237mm wheelbase, correct? So there are two versions of the CLK GTR body? Thank you
  5. Oh thanks, yes this looks brilliant Just started to collect the bits for the Egress front dampers! Thats the way I will go. Thank you!
  6. Here we go! It just looks amazing I think. I love this car! So here are some details: 1) Dont be a fool like me and order the black Egress wheels, they will not fit! 2WD vs 4WD / Hex vs Ball Bearing I am still looking for a nice wheel that could fit and look similar to the old one. But, it must be Tamiya, I have a Tamiya addiction 2) MCI Decals are great, I am very pleased. I messed up the blue sticker above the race number "5" sticker. You will see it has no white borderline, whereas the other blue sticker do have a white contrast line. It was the first blue sticker I cut out, and I realized my mistake later. I must however admit that it was hard to see the white lines on the MCI sticker sheet. Anyways, a new decal set is on the way to me and I will correct my mistake, plus I will have some spare sticker parts 3) Okay, here is the thing with the race numer "5" sticker. It is the only sticker that was hard to apply and the sticker curls a bit. I guess I have to use a heat gun to get it in shape. Lets see, from the new decal set I will also reapply the start numbers with a new method. 4) Shocks, Shocks, Shocks... I did the math for the yellow parts and I might take them in the future but I would love to see the high caps on it. As you read, the new High Caps are to long in the front. I refrained from using the Dyna front shock tower for two reasons: First is, I need to drill a new whole in the middle of the FRP part to make it fit. Second is, I dont like the looks. The front looks out of proportion, but thats just my personal impression, no offense against anyone using the dyna shock tower, I assume they work amazingly well. However, this car will be a light driver for pure fun only. Another option could be the DF03 dampers (53926), but they are pricey and I think the color will not match to the retro Astute look. Lets see, project continues.
  7. Yes, its the same aluminium housing for front and rear that was in the set (47358). However, the piston rod is 39mm in the front (9804650) and 49mm in the back (9804189). Will post picutres of the process soon, but the car is on stock shocks now. I wonder if I could just use the front housing of the Egress (9804649) and make my own mini high cap version for the front.
  8. Ehhm... tough choice... what about getting rid of that person who set the law? But I agree with your last words. If it was me, I would sell the Levant or the TT02B although you probably spent lots of money in hop-ups. Why? Well, those are the more common kits for a resonable price and tuning parts widely available. Even if you do a mistake, regret it or want one car back, it shouldn't be hard to do so. Hope this helps
  9. Sorry, I have never been into serious racing, maybe some of the experts knows why, but your assumptions sounds plausible to me
  10. Thanks Slimleeroy, for now I stick with the original shock that came with the Super Astute. I may order a DynaStorm shock tower at some time, I have seen they are on stock at some sellers...then I can go back to the High Cap Dampers. Just one more thing: Even with the original Super Astute shocks, the front will not bottom out (the back however does bottom out). This is my first "real" racing buggy and I am planning to do some jumps at a local track. I have always believed that those racing buggys bottom out to save the shock towers from breaking when jumping. I assume that was wrong?!
  11. Thanks Snappy! Yes, you are right, front shock tower is too short for this setup unfortunately. Went back to the original Shocks, painted red, waiting for the Astute decals from MCI Racing I will use the High Caps for another build...can anyone recommend yellow shocks for the Astute look? Preferably ones that fit without any modification? Thanks Edit: Black Egress wheels are on the way as well
  12. Hi, I build a Super Astute today and went all good so far. I bought the new High Cap Dampers which are sold for the Top Force. The dampers in the back are fine but I think the front dampers are too long. The Car does not bottom out in the front and is a bit more lifted in the front. I have seen some pictures with the astute using similar dampers but I guess those ones are different? Are there different High Cap Dampers?
  13. It depends on how you want to paint the Black Special. The Manual gives you two options, Black (PS-5) or Smoke (PS-31). I would go with PS-31, though it is more challenging to apply PS-31!
  14. Hi, does anyone know why I can’t use the TSU 06 Servo with an 302BK ESC? I can’t think of any reason why this should not work...
  15. Super Astute (2018) - Made in Japan according to my box
  16. Probably already mentioned, but I hope for either Vanquish or King Cab / Hilux Monster Racer!
  17. That is a very nice Vanquish Post a few more pictures when you are done!
  18. So last time my friend build a Monster Beetle, he had purchased that upgrade MIP Ball Diff but apparently the long screw had no thread (maybe production failure?) and he couldn't fix the screw. So he ended up using the original gear diff that was supplied with the kit. I was planning to buy and build a Subaru Brat over christmas and he made me aware of the diff issue cause I thought of getting the MIP Ball Diff as well. I was planning to run the Brat on an old GT Tuned that I have around, would the gear diff be okay for that 25T motor? I was wondering if the DT02 Ball Diff is a plug an play into Frog/Brat/MB? Thanks
  19. nothing against Lipos, they are just to fast for my old eyes and my lousy reflexes Well at least it seems like you can at least find an esc. I checked all stores I know online but no one has them stock. Thanky anyways!
  20. Hello Tamiya Lovers Is the TEU-302BK discontinued? I cannot find it anywhere? Which Tamiya Brushed ESC can I use for 23T Motors? The TEU-105BK and the TBLE-02s are limited to 25 Turns, plus the TBLE-02s has an ugly third cable Who needs that?
  21. Thanks graemevw! Okay Looks like thats normal. I was confused and thought that I screwed up something on the front geometry Cool I will move on
  22. Here is another Picture... :( Cannot find my mistake...
  23. Hey there, I started building however I come to a Point where I Need some help. I spend Hours already on checking the Manual but I just dont understand :( In the Manual step 19 I Need to use BC7 which is Step screw 3x18mm. However, they are far too Long!!! It either stays out in front or sticks out in the back. I really dont get it. If i screw it in completely it sticks out in the back for at least 3-4 mm. I crosschecked with the Lancia Manual and in this Manual it says that you have to use the black step screw 3x14mm which would make more sense. Am I doing something wrong?
  24. Oh yes got into this topic and I was surprised Tamiya used the 934 shell with 230mm from the 30th anniversary with a chassis that "doesn't fit basically?". Some comments say its noticeable others say it is fine with the body on. I guess I will find out soon. Has the Lancia 037 a true wheelbase of 236mm? Or is it also 230mm? Can anyone help me out with the knuckle arms? I noticed the two 934 Porsche (TA02SW) come with black knuckle arms, the Lancia 037 and the 911 GT2 come with blue knuckle arms. Is there a difference between those two parts? First I thought the blue one has a more narrow track as it is one the Lancia and not on the wide Porsches, but then the 911 GT2 has also the blue ones!? Is the difference of the TA02S and the TA02SW really only those 30mm width tires in the back? And to make the confusion perfect, what is the difference to the red knuckle arms of the Tamiya Top Force? 45mph? Thats way tooooo much for my eyes, ears, nose.... and my lame reactions But it's nice to hear that the TA02 is capable of those heavy motors...at least under careful maintenance I assume Makes me confident in running this car with less worry about serious weak points on the chassis.
  25. Uff thanks Truck Norris, it's nice someone is thinking for me and saving me from stupid purchases! Appreciate it! Thank you, it will help me for sure You are using carbon fiber right? It's not looking like the FRP elements. Is it the set from Yeah Racing? Coming back to my build, a surgery at the dentist kept/and still keeps me from processing further. A new order with paint/tools came in and I did further research on the TA02. I decided to go with the Speed Gear set and the Sport Tuned. The regular ratio from the set is 74T main gear and 21T pinion which results in a 8.59:1 ratio. With this setting I wouldn't be able to get the ratio further down anytime in the future. The motor mount lets you install all pinions down to 16T which results in 11.27:1. For the purpose I am planning to use this car however, I am more looking into ratios below 8:1. So the 69T main gear from the speed gear set gives me this sweet range from 21T and a gear ratio of 8.01:1 all the way down to 25T, which will then result in 6.73:1. I will be driving this kit on large and clean parking areas with some self created tracks based on pylons. My brother will join me with his new TT02S chassis (yes I already infected someone else with the Tamiya virus). The TT02S has also a ration of 8 something, however extending my research to the TT01 and TT02 world I realized those touring cars are looking to rations between 8:1 down to even 4:1. This strengthened my selection of the speed gear choice and with pinions between 22T und 25T I still have some place to try around. Oh and yes, the Sport Tuned by the way is recommended to a ratio of 7:1 in touring cars, so a perfect match which (from my previous experience) is also fast enough for the purpose I am using it. And from my personal feeling I consider the Super Stock TZ to be the strongest motor you should throw into a TA02. Just my feeling. Browsed some forums about the servo selection and realized that I can program servo endpoints on my Futaba. These endpoints should prevent the steering linkage from any damage, regardless of the force of the servo (I am slowly making process, at least I hope so... ) Oh and yes the final decision on the body was made! Plus the kit has the hard joint cups for the ball diff in the back but regular ones for the front, so got a set for the front gear diff as well.
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