CKU87

Hi everyone, just ordered a new GF-01 Landcruiser which I will be building over christmas. Realy excited and hope to get the kit in the next days. I was planning to use the Landcruiser Body and also paint a Jimny Body for it down the road. I will also add some tuning. So my first purchase was: - 58589 GF-01 Land Cruiser Kit - 2 x 54394 Universal Shaft - 2 x 53218 Hard Coint Cup Set I am about to release the next purchase and was planning to get: - Tamiya GT Tuned Motor - 54734 FRP Battery Mount - 54924 Full set ball bearings - 53509 HFC coated 20T pinion (was thinking to go one higher since the 25T GT Tuned has some nice torque) - 2 x 54586 Light Gearshaft - 2 x 9805619 Wild Willy Rear Tires I am not sure about: - 53571 TRF Aluminium Damper Set. These are the silver ones of the blue anodized 42102 Dampers. I would prefer to have a silver look on the dampers and get some colour from the spring set 53440. However, it appears that these dampers are longer than the recommended set 54640 for the WR02 and GF01. Does anyone have the 53571 in use or know if thats a good fit. - 54796 Aluminium Guard. I understand that i cannot mount the spring loaded front damper when i use the guard set. Only mounting it without the springs. Would you recommend going this way? It will be a basher so hard use for sure. Any other concerns or recommendations about the upgrade parts? Would really appreciate your thoughts!

Hi! I cannot comment on the B8 part. In my point it was not necessary for me. I have only updated my Terra Scorcher with the A5 part. The metal gear in the Diff needs some running time. What I do is to hang up my cars for a few minutes, fix one tire with a duct tape and let the car run on 50% speed with no stress on the drive line. I repeat that for the other two wheels as well. This lets the car run smooth. However, make sure you have cleaned up the E3 gear parts properly as they are cut from the sprue. I always sand them and make sure they are perfectly round and balanced. Otherwise they cause some noise and stress. Also, make sure you have glued the tires. They also baloon and imbalance the car. Hope this helps. At least these are my impressions.

Don’t worry too much about this beauty...the A5 metal part sold on ebay is sufficient if you don’t go crazy with the power. I run a GT Tuned on TEU 105 Bk with the 17 teeth steel pinion from the DT03. Just about perfect.

Hi all, does anyone know if the Terra Scorcher is already discontinued? Unforunately I can't find a kit anymore in Germany. Best

Haha that’s so true, last time I painted a TT02 chassis and got some paint on my arm. My colleague asked me what happened to me. I was surprised and told him that I did some work at home What should I say? That I build a RC Car kit? Sometimes I think they wouldn’t understand at all, but then again there are moments where I think that more people should actually build a kit just to learn some very important basics...planning, patience, etc.

Love the look 😊 Meanwhile the new decals arrived and I corrected my mistake. Have now a few stickers as spare 😅And that was a great tip with the number 5 sticker. I made two cuts and works perfect. Got also the first pieces of the front high cap dampers. Springs are on the way, so hopefully will be ready by the end of the week ☺️

Hi everyone! The whole world talks about the corona virus ... however, the virus that hit me is named Tamiya. Luckily it is not attacking my health but rather my wallet, which still stinks What I want to know is, how do you plan your collection when looking for new purchases? There are two things which interest me a lot. Spare parts First one is spare parts. Do you know from your experience already upfront which sparts will become rare in the future and brake more often? Is there a nice list that shows the weak spots of various Tamiya models, e.g. if you purchase an Avante, get at least an additional front gear box case because you will break yours most likely when running. Do you purchase spare parts? If yes, only one item or sometimes even more? Or do you sometimes even purchase a complete new second kit, just for the case and potential resale? I read in one comment that Tamiya is the "Lego" equivalent to RC Cars, which is why I like Tamiya so much by the way. Do you have a, lets call it "General" parts box, that includes all the common pieces which are present in so many Tamiya kits, e.g. Gear Diffs, Screws, tie rods, etc.? Platform strategy When you purchase your Tamiya's, do you look out for the platform? For example, would you only purchase a TT01/02 chassis instead of a TA/TRF/TB series car or the M-Series, because you have most of your parts available for TT series which are more likely interchangable? Or you would rather buy an Egress instead of a TRF Buggy because you already have two Avantes which shares the same platform, similar parts, more overlap for spare parts, etc., kind of economies of density? If so, what was your experience? Did you find out what onroad or offroad chassis family worked out the best for you? Have you ever considered not to buy a new model because it was a whole new chassis design for that reasons? Don't really know if those questions make sense or if anyone ever had similar thoughts. I still would be happy to hear your thoughts.

Ah thanks Yes, the "s" makes the difference Thank you for the clarification!

Hi, the CLK GTR comes on a TT01? That means 257mm wheelbase. I remember there was once a release on the TA03 chassis, which was 237mm wheelbase, correct? So there are two versions of the CLK GTR body? Thank you

Oh thanks, yes this looks brilliant Just started to collect the bits for the Egress front dampers! Thats the way I will go. Thank you!

Here we go! It just looks amazing I think. I love this car! So here are some details: 1) Dont be a fool like me and order the black Egress wheels, they will not fit! 2WD vs 4WD / Hex vs Ball Bearing I am still looking for a nice wheel that could fit and look similar to the old one. But, it must be Tamiya, I have a Tamiya addiction 2) MCI Decals are great, I am very pleased. I messed up the blue sticker above the race number "5" sticker. You will see it has no white borderline, whereas the other blue sticker do have a white contrast line. It was the first blue sticker I cut out, and I realized my mistake later. I must however admit that it was hard to see the white lines on the MCI sticker sheet. Anyways, a new decal set is on the way to me and I will correct my mistake, plus I will have some spare sticker parts 3) Okay, here is the thing with the race numer "5" sticker. It is the only sticker that was hard to apply and the sticker curls a bit. I guess I have to use a heat gun to get it in shape. Lets see, from the new decal set I will also reapply the start numbers with a new method. 4) Shocks, Shocks, Shocks... I did the math for the yellow parts and I might take them in the future but I would love to see the high caps on it. As you read, the new High Caps are to long in the front. I refrained from using the Dyna front shock tower for two reasons: First is, I need to drill a new whole in the middle of the FRP part to make it fit. Second is, I dont like the looks. The front looks out of proportion, but thats just my personal impression, no offense against anyone using the dyna shock tower, I assume they work amazingly well. However, this car will be a light driver for pure fun only. Another option could be the DF03 dampers (53926), but they are pricey and I think the color will not match to the retro Astute look. Lets see, project continues.

Yes, its the same aluminium housing for front and rear that was in the set (47358). However, the piston rod is 39mm in the front (9804650) and 49mm in the back (9804189). Will post picutres of the process soon, but the car is on stock shocks now. I wonder if I could just use the front housing of the Egress (9804649) and make my own mini high cap version for the front.

Ehhm... tough choice... what about getting rid of that person who set the law? But I agree with your last words. If it was me, I would sell the Levant or the TT02B although you probably spent lots of money in hop-ups. Why? Well, those are the more common kits for a resonable price and tuning parts widely available. Even if you do a mistake, regret it or want one car back, it shouldn't be hard to do so. Hope this helps

Sorry, I have never been into serious racing, maybe some of the experts knows why, but your assumptions sounds plausible to me

Thanks Slimleeroy, for now I stick with the original shock that came with the Super Astute. I may order a DynaStorm shock tower at some time, I have seen they are on stock at some sellers...then I can go back to the High Cap Dampers. Just one more thing: Even with the original Super Astute shocks, the front will not bottom out (the back however does bottom out). This is my first "real" racing buggy and I am planning to do some jumps at a local track. I have always believed that those racing buggys bottom out to save the shock towers from breaking when jumping. I assume that was wrong?!

Thanks Snappy! Yes, you are right, front shock tower is too short for this setup unfortunately. Went back to the original Shocks, painted red, waiting for the Astute decals from MCI Racing I will use the High Caps for another build...can anyone recommend yellow shocks for the Astute look? Preferably ones that fit without any modification? Thanks Edit: Black Egress wheels are on the way as well

Hi, I build a Super Astute today and went all good so far. I bought the new High Cap Dampers which are sold for the Top Force. The dampers in the back are fine but I think the front dampers are too long. The Car does not bottom out in the front and is a bit more lifted in the front. I have seen some pictures with the astute using similar dampers but I guess those ones are different? Are there different High Cap Dampers?

It depends on how you want to paint the Black Special. The Manual gives you two options, Black (PS-5) or Smoke (PS-31). I would go with PS-31, though it is more challenging to apply PS-31!

Hi, does anyone know why I can’t use the TSU 06 Servo with an 302BK ESC? I can’t think of any reason why this should not work...

Super Astute (2018) - Made in Japan according to my box

Probably already mentioned, but I hope for either Vanquish or King Cab / Hilux Monster Racer!

That is a very nice Vanquish Post a few more pictures when you are done!

So last time my friend build a Monster Beetle, he had purchased that upgrade MIP Ball Diff but apparently the long screw had no thread (maybe production failure?) and he couldn't fix the screw. So he ended up using the original gear diff that was supplied with the kit. I was planning to buy and build a Subaru Brat over christmas and he made me aware of the diff issue cause I thought of getting the MIP Ball Diff as well. I was planning to run the Brat on an old GT Tuned that I have around, would the gear diff be okay for that 25T motor? I was wondering if the DT02 Ball Diff is a plug an play into Frog/Brat/MB? Thanks

nothing against Lipos, they are just to fast for my old eyes and my lousy reflexes Well at least it seems like you can at least find an esc. I checked all stores I know online but no one has them stock. Thanky anyways!

Hello Tamiya Lovers Is the TEU-302BK discontinued? I cannot find it anywhere? Which Tamiya Brushed ESC can I use for 23T Motors? The TEU-105BK and the TBLE-02s are limited to 25 Turns, plus the TBLE-02s has an ugly third cable Who needs that?