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CKU87

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Posts posted by CKU87


  1. Thanks all.

    Yes this is what I was expecting. You have to fiddle around to make the solution work...buy new parts and the build goes into 400 Euro plus region...which then isn't really worth this chassis. I can add a couple Euros then and go with the CEN M Sport (which I will not because it's not a kit). Or just take the TT02BR - but then it's only a TT02 and I was looking for a more challenging build.

    The problem is, that as a rally car I take some bumps on the road constantly, which makes the car wobble and jump. That alone is enough to engage the drive shafts as one can see also in some YouTube videos. Too bad, it really is a design flaw.

    I don't know what it is about the XV01, but it never appealed to me. I would then probably stick with the XV02RS and build rather an onroad car or just really buy another Egress Black Edition, this time for running. 

    You see, pretty indecisive and I need to place an order soon to get the kit before Christmas 😒

    • Like 2

  2. So I was about to place an order with the XV02 Pro kit to have some fun around christmas building and driving.

    I feel like the popping drive shafts are a serious issue with this kit and that there isn’t really a solution to it.

    Any thoughts? Is the RS version better in that regard?
     

    Thanks

    • Like 3

  3. @joeling Sorry for the late reply, I was abroad for a couple weeks and didn't check here on the forum.

    This is an excellent question, but I haven't seen any aftermarket alloy part for the steering so far and since I stay "purely" with Kyosho for this build, I was only interested in their hopups. So maybe there are some third party manufacturers, like Xtra Speed and Yeah Racing (https://tamico.de/Kyosho-Optima-Javelin-Spare-parts-and-Hop-Up-parts).

    As for Kyosho original hopup parts, they list OTW143 (HD ST Link Set) in the manual. Also, I was always in the opinion that the servo saver OTW114 is an original hopup part, but unfortunately the manual does not list this part, so I skipped it. To risky to spend the money on it to find out it won't fit. @Kai City RC Maybe the Japanese manual does list it?

    What is interesting is that the official Kyosho Optima Mid video, uploaded from Kyosho Corporation on Youtube, does show an alloy servo saver. You can clearly see it at minute 09:07. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dbMnSbi7hSQ

    Never found or seen this part anywhere!

    Oddly enough, there is also the opposite case. I recently found a part (OTW 145), which I have never seen in the manual or any other documentation. Here is the link: https://tamico.de/Kyosho-Optima-Mid-CNC-Rear-Suspension-Holder

    To be honest, it is really frustrating with the lack in documentation. I can only assume that they (Kyosho) are tight on budget and lack people to review and crosscheck their documentation. Too bad if you ask me. It is the same with the Kyosho Ultima. Go check their official video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tHmrKIU5LAQ) and compare it with the option parts list in the manual. It is a nightmare.

    Anyways, meanwhile the LeMans Motor (15.5T) as well as the CVDs have arrived. So hopefully I have some time in the near future to start the build.

     

     

    IMG_0359.jpg

    • Like 2

  4. This is a fake.

    I am from Germany, I know the market here and theses prices will not work. They also say that they are a trustee partner in market, which is completely nonsense. Apparently you can reach them by email, chat and phone. Nothing of these is available on their website.

    Also, the address doesnt make sense as well, there is no such road in the town they mention.

    Edit: Looking deeper into the website there are hundred more red flags. To make it short: Please stay away from the website and do not burn your money.

    • Like 2

  5. Wow, haven't been online for some time and a lot of responses! Thanks everyone this was helpful. Some more parts arrived in the meantime, including a spare body. More than happy to post some pictures once the car is done. Still lacking the OTW125B, however, they are really hard to find at the moment.

    Yes, too bad they discontinued the ESC, I am not really a fan of fan-cooled ESCs. And in the Mid, the Le Mans ESC makes a lot of sense, since the bottom plate has two holes for the perfect mounting of the ESC. But I agree, its not the price I would normally pay for an ESC. But special cars need special treatment ;)

    I am really hoping that we see a LWB Mid re-release!

    On 2/25/2023 at 1:05 PM, Twinfan said:

    Just a quick "thank you" from me for posting this pic - it made me realise I hadn't ordered enough 92413 for my Legendary Series Ultima - I'd only got one, not realising I needed two packs for the four arms.  Doh!  So I ordered them late last night aolong with some diff oil that I'd also missed  :D

    Are the W0141V washers just a colour change?  They look to be the exact same parts as standard but anodised blue?

    I would agree with @Mrowka they are the same parts only an optical upgrade. 

    IMG_1734.jpg

    • Like 2

  6. Thanks @Kai City RC By the way, I love your YouTube channel! It was my go to place when looking to buy my first Kyosho set.

    About the LA43H/R: Could this be a printing error in the manual. It seems that I either find the LA43H (Hard) ball ends, or the LA43R (Red) ball ends. I haven't seen or found any "hard" and "red" combo. Neither as a set nor on any Optima Mid build. Or is the manual to read in the way that you can either choose between the hard and red variant?

    As one can see, the collection is growing. Still have a big order in the mail...including the Le Mans 240S combo (ESC and the 15.5T motor). Also, according to the Kyosho website, the Le Mans 240S ESC is discontinued: https://rc.kyosho.com/en/37051.html

    I was a bit surprised to see that. Considering the re-release strategy from Kyosho, this will likely not be the last Kyosho Legendary car we see. So I wonder which Sensored Brushless ESC combo they will advertise in their future releases.

    IMG_1721.jpg

    • Like 1

  7. Hi everyone,

    just received my new Optima Mid Kit and already looking for some tuning parts which I want to accomodate right from the beginning. I havent opened the kit yet (its sitting at home and I am on a business trip at the moment) and I have some hard time to follow the instructions about some option parts.

    The carbon and aluminium parts are clear.

    1-S34010HT: These are five M4 Titanium screws that go into the front gear housing, holding the top plate, right (manual step 33)? Why was that an option part at all? I would unterstand a Titanium screw kit for the entire kit, but changing only two screws? Or do I miss something?

    BRG007F: Am I right in the assumption that these go into the steering link (manual step 23)? So purchasing OTW143 should already have both included?

    BRG002: Also manual step 23. I assume they replace part OT267/5. But why would I need four of these bearings? Or is it just the fact that they are only sold as a kit consisting of four?

    UTW008: These are only two more options between medium and hard for the back dampers, right?

    OTW125B: They are out of stock everywhere I looked. Does anyone know if they were discontinued?

    OTW135: Does the Optima Mid have front stablizers? Or does this set only mount to the back of the car? EDIT: Okay my mistake, this set is for both front and rear.

    UM516: What is the advantage these slipper pads give compared to the standard kit ones?

    W0201HAgain, whats the advantage of these? Lighter? More durable?

    LA43H/R: Is this a stronger plastic component compared to the kit one? Would you use them only in combination with with W0201H balls?

    I must say, I find that despite the Optima Mid was such an asked model from the RC community, there is barely and information on the 2022 re-release...

    • Like 1

  8. Thanks everyone. Well, I dont mind much about the painting, I think I can manage that. But its really about the cutting of the lexan body, especially this one. It has some really difficult lines, weird holes, etc.

    Let's see, maybe I give it a shot and if it turns out to be bad, I can still purchase a new body kit for 50 Euro, which is still okay I guess...

     

    Edit: Does anyone know which knive this gentleman is using starting from minute 45:04? I could imagine that cutting with this technique might help me a lot...

     

     

     


  9. Hi,

    a dream came true when I finally bought the Kyosho Optima Mid Kit. This kit will be for display only and I have a couple of designs I am thinking of for the body work. Unfortunately, cutting and painting lexan bodies isn't my biggest strenght.

    If anyone could offer the service for me, I am more than willing to pay for it.

    I was thinking to send the body with decals via parcel service. Since I live in Germany, anything within Europe would be my preferred option.

    Of course I would pay for the colors, masking tapes, the service as well as the parcel costs for re-sending it to me and other materials that are needed.

    Thanks


  10. Hi, can anyone tell me if I need two damper sets of the long BigBore Aeration dampers from Tamiya for my XV02? Number is 54505.

    Or do I need one long set (54505) and one short set (54504) of the dampers? In a buggy I can understand the use of the different lengts but for the XV02, bot dampers are the same lenght.


  11. 11 hours ago, GeeWings said:

    Yes, that's odd. Both sets use the same part number but are different. The standard GF01 chassis does not have the four fitting points that the Comical does. The comical doesn't seem to use them though...

     

    Edit: Actually, it's even less clear as the CB Hornet at least does not have those four points and the part is numbered differently. 

    For the Hornet it makes totally sense since it is based on a WR02 Chassis, but for the Comical Avante and the Comical Hotshot (both GF01) it is really odd.

    There must be a mistake on my end as I don’t think that tamiya produces two different D-parts with the same number…

    anyone else has an idea? or am i completely blind and missing something obvious?

     

    Edit: @GeeWings Yes, that would have been my next question…what are the holes for? Only thing I could think of was the G6 chassis, but then, the chassis of the G6 must have a completly different molding as it is much longer with 6 wheels…


  12. Hey everyone, sorry to bring this up again but i need some more clarification regarding the GF01 and the GF01CB. According to the manuals, both chassis do use D Parts number 10008265. 

    However, if I compare the pictures, the GF01CB does cleary have four left holes above where the bumper is mounted, while the normal GF01 has a flat surface. It just doesnt make sense to me, especially not since both have the exact same number….

    can someone clarify?

    460A20AC-D3EC-41F8-BCD6-A619F956ABE0.jpeg

    FB83953B-5AB8-4910-A5E7-D59D04E226E7.jpeg


  13. 😅 Oh my god, these cars are awesome! Really impressive, nice and clean build cars! Thanks for the pictures and will check your page immediatelly! 

    Did you paint your rims by yourself? At least I can see three coulours, black, like a gun metal grey and the original silver!?

    Good to know regarding the chassis, thanks! Then I can go ahead and buy the Wild Willy set as this is a stock WR02.

    Yes I have seen the WR02C is more the onroad Version for the Honda City Turbo only it seems. The WR02G has the smaller front tires and the Comcial Variants of the WR02 and the GF01 are a different anyway.

    Anyone doing the WR02C front axle upgrade on the stock WR02? At least to me the B9 looks more robust than the screwed E6 and E2 part. But then the front tires of wild willy wont probably fit I assume as they go on the ball bearing instead of the axle pin like with the Honda?

    • Thanks 1

  14. Thanks a lot. 

    One more thing as I am also building up a WR02 for my girlfriend. On which WR02 chassis was the Jimny released back then? 

    I get confused with all the different types WR02, WR02C, WR02G then the CB….

    I do notice slight differences in the manuals, e.g. in some models there is a spacer mounted between the wheely bar and the chassis and in other manuals the front is entirely different, e.g. Wild Willy Front vs Honda City Turbo Front.


  15. Thanks everyone for your replies. Yes I agree, not much is needed here probably so I will be skipping the skid guard and safe some money. 

    Would you recommend tire foams for the spiked tires of the dump truck? I read that they are softer than the wild willy tires, so was wondering….


  16. Hi everyone,

    just ordered a new GF-01 Landcruiser which I will be building over christmas. Realy excited and hope to get the kit in the next days.

    I was planning to use the Landcruiser Body and also paint a Jimny Body for it down the road. I will also add some tuning. So my first purchase was:

    - 58589 GF-01 Land Cruiser Kit

    - 2 x 54394 Universal Shaft

    - 2 x 53218 Hard Coint Cup Set

    I am about to release the next purchase and was planning to get:

    - Tamiya GT Tuned Motor

    - 54734 FRP Battery Mount

    - 54924 Full set ball bearings

    - 53509 HFC coated 20T pinion (was thinking to go one higher since the 25T GT Tuned has some nice torque)

    - 2 x 54586 Light Gearshaft

    - 2 x 9805619 Wild Willy Rear Tires
     

    I am not sure about:

    - 53571 TRF Aluminium Damper Set. These are the silver ones of the blue anodized 42102 Dampers. I would prefer to have a silver look on the dampers and get some colour from the spring set 53440. However, it appears that these dampers are longer than the recommended set 54640 for the WR02 and GF01. Does anyone have the 53571 in use or know if thats a good fit.

    - 54796 Aluminium Guard. I understand that i cannot mount the spring loaded front damper when i use the guard set. Only mounting it without the springs. Would you recommend going this way? It will be a basher so hard use for sure. 

    Any other concerns or recommendations about the upgrade parts? Would really appreciate your thoughts!

     


  17. Hi!

    I cannot comment on the B8 part. In my point it was not necessary for me. I have only updated my Terra Scorcher with the A5 part.

    The metal gear in the Diff needs some running time. What I do is to hang up my cars for a few minutes, fix one tire with a duct tape and let the car run on 50% speed with no stress on the drive line. I repeat that for the other two wheels as well. This lets the car run smooth.

    However, make sure you have cleaned up the E3 gear parts properly as they are cut from the sprue. I always sand them and make sure they are perfectly round and balanced. Otherwise they cause some noise and stress.

    Also, make sure you have glued the tires. They also baloon and imbalance the car.

    Hope this helps. At least these are my impressions.

    • Like 2

  18. On 1/31/2020 at 11:38 PM, WillyChang said:

    T.virus is highly addictive and once infected, yes it can bleed your wallet dry.

    It takes heavy toll on the body. Your brain might get addled from all the T.paint and T.glue fumes. Your nails go black from staining by T.molygrease and your eyes grow blackbags from all those late nights spent researching the interwebs or building in nocturnal solitary peacefulness. 

    Society used to frown on weirdos outside norm, but now in today's age of acceptance for LBGTXYZRC we aren't such social pariahs anymore. Intervention attempts by loved ones is futile... & ironic as they are often the provider of the initial gift of T.kit! 

    There will be times when other life's distractions may relegate T.virus to go dormant... but it'll flare back raging at your next moment of weakness. Often triggered by global seasonal events such as "Nuremberg" and "Shizouka" 

    Afflicted individuals can still continue function in society by practising "moderation" (no idea whuzzat?). Others survive by keeping their wallets at home when going out to visit LHS (uhoh ApplePay). Or bringing your wife along to the LHS (oh shoot, now *she* starts stocking up on paintbrushes & crafting tools). Or riding a bicycle to the LHS (well, that sorta worked until somebody invented cargo bikes). Some might use reasoning "I've got more T.kits & T.parts than the LHS!"; the smarter sufferers go open an LHS... to spread the disease to others - Zombie logic.

    There is no cure for T.virus except death. Live Long and Persevere! 

    Haha that’s so true, last time I painted a TT02 chassis and got some paint on my arm. My colleague asked me what happened to me. I was surprised and told him that I did some work at home :) What should I say? That I build a RC Car kit? Sometimes I think they wouldn’t understand at all, but then again there are moments where I think that more people should actually build a kit just to learn some very important basics...planning, patience, etc.

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