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CKU87

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Posts posted by CKU87

  1. Posted

    😅 Oh my god, these cars are awesome! Really impressive, nice and clean build cars! Thanks for the pictures and will check your page immediatelly! 

    Did you paint your rims by yourself? At least I can see three coulours, black, like a gun metal grey and the original silver!?

    Good to know regarding the chassis, thanks! Then I can go ahead and buy the Wild Willy set as this is a stock WR02.

    Yes I have seen the WR02C is more the onroad Version for the Honda City Turbo only it seems. The WR02G has the smaller front tires and the Comcial Variants of the WR02 and the GF01 are a different anyway.

    Anyone doing the WR02C front axle upgrade on the stock WR02? At least to me the B9 looks more robust than the screwed E6 and E2 part. But then the front tires of wild willy wont probably fit I assume as they go on the ball bearing instead of the axle pin like with the Honda?

    • Thanks 1

  2. Posted

    Thanks a lot. 

    One more thing as I am also building up a WR02 for my girlfriend. On which WR02 chassis was the Jimny released back then? 

    I get confused with all the different types WR02, WR02C, WR02G then the CB….

    I do notice slight differences in the manuals, e.g. in some models there is a spacer mounted between the wheely bar and the chassis and in other manuals the front is entirely different, e.g. Wild Willy Front vs Honda City Turbo Front.

  3. Posted

    Thanks everyone for your replies. Yes I agree, not much is needed here probably so I will be skipping the skid guard and safe some money. 

    Would you recommend tire foams for the spiked tires of the dump truck? I read that they are softer than the wild willy tires, so was wondering….

  4. Posted

    Hi everyone,

    just ordered a new GF-01 Landcruiser which I will be building over christmas. Realy excited and hope to get the kit in the next days.

    I was planning to use the Landcruiser Body and also paint a Jimny Body for it down the road. I will also add some tuning. So my first purchase was:

    - 58589 GF-01 Land Cruiser Kit

    - 2 x 54394 Universal Shaft

    - 2 x 53218 Hard Coint Cup Set

    I am about to release the next purchase and was planning to get:

    - Tamiya GT Tuned Motor

    - 54734 FRP Battery Mount

    - 54924 Full set ball bearings

    - 53509 HFC coated 20T pinion (was thinking to go one higher since the 25T GT Tuned has some nice torque)

    - 2 x 54586 Light Gearshaft

    - 2 x 9805619 Wild Willy Rear Tires
     

    I am not sure about:

    - 53571 TRF Aluminium Damper Set. These are the silver ones of the blue anodized 42102 Dampers. I would prefer to have a silver look on the dampers and get some colour from the spring set 53440. However, it appears that these dampers are longer than the recommended set 54640 for the WR02 and GF01. Does anyone have the 53571 in use or know if thats a good fit.

    - 54796 Aluminium Guard. I understand that i cannot mount the spring loaded front damper when i use the guard set. Only mounting it without the springs. Would you recommend going this way? It will be a basher so hard use for sure. 

    Any other concerns or recommendations about the upgrade parts? Would really appreciate your thoughts!

     

  5. Posted

    Hi!

    I cannot comment on the B8 part. In my point it was not necessary for me. I have only updated my Terra Scorcher with the A5 part.

    The metal gear in the Diff needs some running time. What I do is to hang up my cars for a few minutes, fix one tire with a duct tape and let the car run on 50% speed with no stress on the drive line. I repeat that for the other two wheels as well. This lets the car run smooth.

    However, make sure you have cleaned up the E3 gear parts properly as they are cut from the sprue. I always sand them and make sure they are perfectly round and balanced. Otherwise they cause some noise and stress.

    Also, make sure you have glued the tires. They also baloon and imbalance the car.

    Hope this helps. At least these are my impressions.

    • Like 2

  8. Posted

    On 1/31/2020 at 11:38 PM, WillyChang said:

    T.virus is highly addictive and once infected, yes it can bleed your wallet dry.

    It takes heavy toll on the body. Your brain might get addled from all the T.paint and T.glue fumes. Your nails go black from staining by T.molygrease and your eyes grow blackbags from all those late nights spent researching the interwebs or building in nocturnal solitary peacefulness. 

    Society used to frown on weirdos outside norm, but now in today's age of acceptance for LBGTXYZRC we aren't such social pariahs anymore. Intervention attempts by loved ones is futile... & ironic as they are often the provider of the initial gift of T.kit! 

    There will be times when other life's distractions may relegate T.virus to go dormant... but it'll flare back raging at your next moment of weakness. Often triggered by global seasonal events such as "Nuremberg" and "Shizouka" 

    Afflicted individuals can still continue function in society by practising "moderation" (no idea whuzzat?). Others survive by keeping their wallets at home when going out to visit LHS (uhoh ApplePay). Or bringing your wife along to the LHS (oh shoot, now *she* starts stocking up on paintbrushes & crafting tools). Or riding a bicycle to the LHS (well, that sorta worked until somebody invented cargo bikes). Some might use reasoning "I've got more T.kits & T.parts than the LHS!"; the smarter sufferers go open an LHS... to spread the disease to others - Zombie logic.

    There is no cure for T.virus except death. Live Long and Persevere! 

    Haha that’s so true, last time I painted a TT02 chassis and got some paint on my arm. My colleague asked me what happened to me. I was surprised and told him that I did some work at home :) What should I say? That I build a RC Car kit? Sometimes I think they wouldn’t understand at all, but then again there are moments where I think that more people should actually build a kit just to learn some very important basics...planning, patience, etc.

  9. Posted

    Love the look 😊

    Meanwhile the new decals arrived and I corrected my mistake. Have now a few stickers as spare 😅And that was a great tip with the number 5 sticker. I made two cuts and works perfect. Got also the first pieces of the front high cap dampers. Springs are on the way, so hopefully will be ready by the end of the week ☺️

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    • Like 1

  10. Posted

    Hi everyone!

    The whole world talks about the corona virus ... however, the virus that hit me is named Tamiya. Luckily it is not attacking my health but rather my wallet, which still stinks <_<

    What I want to know is, how do you plan your collection when looking for new purchases? There are two things which interest me a lot.

     

    Spare parts

    First one is spare parts. Do you know from your experience already upfront which sparts will become rare in the future and brake more often? Is there a nice list that shows the weak spots of various Tamiya models, e.g. if you purchase an Avante, get at least an additional front gear box case because you will break yours most likely when running.

    Do you purchase spare parts? If yes, only one item or sometimes even more? Or do you sometimes even purchase a complete new second kit, just for the case and potential resale?

    I read in one comment that Tamiya is the "Lego" equivalent to RC Cars, which is why I like Tamiya so much by the way. Do you have a, lets call it "General" parts box, that includes all the common pieces which are present in so many Tamiya kits, e.g. Gear Diffs, Screws, tie rods, etc.?

     

    Platform strategy

    When you purchase your Tamiya's, do you look out for the platform? For example, would you only purchase a TT01/02 chassis instead of a TA/TRF/TB series car or the M-Series, because you have most of your parts available for TT series which are more likely interchangable? Or you would rather buy an Egress instead of a TRF Buggy because you already have two Avantes which shares the same platform, similar parts, more overlap for spare parts, etc., kind of economies of density?

    If so, what was your experience? Did you find out what onroad or offroad chassis family worked out the best for you? Have you ever considered not to buy a new model because it was a whole new chassis design for that reasons?

     

    Don't really know if those questions make sense or if anyone ever had similar thoughts. I still would be happy to hear your thoughts.

    :)

    • Like 3

  11. Posted

    27 minutes ago, Mokei Kagaku said:

    The TA03 with rear-mid mounted motor was available as TA03R with 257mm wheelbase and as TA03R-S with 237mm wheelbase. The original CLK GTR came on the the TA03R chassis (D2), TL01 (Originalteile) and TG10 (Sportswear), all with 257mm'ish* wheelbase. So apart from the different liveries, all three original and the re-re CLK GTR use the same body. It however existed in 1/8 scale for the TGX too, but that's a different story.

    (*depending on rear hub type (different toe-in) and wheel hub width).

    Ah thanks :) Yes, the "s" makes the difference :lol: Thank you for the clarification!

  14. Posted

    Here we go!

    It just looks amazing I think. I love this car! :)

    So here are some details:

    1) Dont be a fool like me and order the black Egress wheels, they will not fit! 2WD vs 4WD / Hex vs Ball Bearing :( I am still looking for a nice wheel that could fit and look similar to the old one. But, it must be Tamiya, I have a Tamiya addiction :ph34r:

    2) MCI Decals are great, I am very pleased. I messed up the blue sticker above the race number "5" sticker. You will see it has no white borderline, whereas the other blue sticker do have a white contrast line. It was the first blue sticker I cut out, and I realized my mistake later. I must however admit that it was hard to see the white lines on the MCI sticker sheet. Anyways, a new decal set is on the way to me and I will correct my mistake, plus I will have some spare sticker parts :wub:

    3) Okay, here is the thing with the race numer "5" sticker. It is the only sticker that was hard to apply and the sticker curls a bit. I guess I have to use a heat gun to get it in shape. Lets see, from the new decal set I will also reapply the start numbers with a new method.

    4) Shocks, Shocks, Shocks... :wacko: I did the math for the yellow parts and I might take them in the future but I would love to see the high caps on it. As you read, the new High Caps are to long in the front. I refrained from using the Dyna front shock tower for two reasons: First is, I need to drill a new whole in the middle of the FRP part to make it fit. Second is, I dont like the looks. The front looks out of proportion, but thats just my personal impression, no offense against anyone using the dyna shock tower, I assume they work amazingly well. However, this car will be a light driver for pure fun only. Another option could be the DF03 dampers (53926), but they are pricey and I think the color will not match to the retro Astute look.

    Lets see, project continues.

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    • Like 3

  15. Posted

    Yes, its the same aluminium housing for front and rear that was in the set (47358). However, the piston rod is 39mm in the front (9804650) and 49mm in the back (9804189).

    Will post picutres of the process soon, but the car is on stock shocks now.

    I wonder if I could just use the front housing of the Egress (9804649) and make my own mini high cap version for the front.

  16. Posted

    12 minutes ago, TwistedxSlayer said:

    So here is my issue. The wife has lay down the law and says I've got to sell one or more RC to fund the next project. Which is fair enough i suppose. The issue is....  I like them all and don't want to sell any of them. Lol but I really want another project.

     

    I've got 3 MadBulls - well they belong to the kids so I am not going to get rid of them.

    My TB01 Rally Car is going nowhere owned it since new in 2000 and I'll probably have it forever more.

    My TB01 Shelf Queen was a gift and won't be going anywhere soon.

    The Ultimate TB01 will be staying for a while as I've only just finished it. Lol.

    The TT02B in Metallic Pink, plenty of hop ups and was the 1st kit I bought with my own money.

    The Levant. Love this truck but ideally could do with LiPos to perform fully.

    I think if I was to let any go it would be the TT02B or the Levant.

    Turns out I like building and tinkering with them more than actually running them.

    I'd like to build a XV-01T or TB03 next I know I defo would not run a TB03.

     

    What to do?!

    Ehhm... tough choice... what about getting rid of that person who set the law?

    But I agree with your last words. If it was me, I would sell the Levant or the TT02B although you probably spent lots of money in hop-ups. Why? Well, those are the more common kits for a resonable price and tuning parts widely available. Even if you do a mistake, regret it or want one car back, it shouldn't be hard to do so.

    Hope this helps :) 

    • Thanks 1

  17. Posted

    8 hours ago, Collin said:

    Why does shocks went from extra long Dyna Storm to mini CVA at the Astute? tracks become flat or what? can someone explain?

    Sorry, I have never been into serious racing, maybe some of the experts knows why, but your assumptions sounds plausible to me :)

  18. Posted

    Thanks Slimleeroy, for now I stick with the original shock that came with the Super Astute. I may order a DynaStorm shock tower at some time, I have seen they are on stock at some sellers...then I can go back to the High Cap Dampers.

    Just one more thing: Even with the original Super Astute shocks, the front will not bottom out (the back however does bottom out). This is my first "real" racing buggy and I am planning to do some jumps at a local track. I have always believed that those racing buggys bottom out to save the shock towers from breaking when jumping. I assume that was wrong?!

    • Like 1

  19. Posted

    Thanks Snappy!

    Yes, you are right, front shock tower is too short for this setup unfortunately. Went back to the original Shocks, painted red, waiting for the Astute decals from MCI Racing :)

    I will use the High Caps for another build...can anyone recommend yellow shocks for the Astute look? Preferably ones that fit without any modification?

    Thanks 

    Edit: Black Egress wheels are on the way as well :)

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  20. Posted

    Hi,

    I build a Super Astute today and went all good so far. I bought the new High Cap Dampers which are sold for the Top Force.

    The dampers in the back are fine but I think the front dampers are too long. The Car does not bottom out in the front and is a bit more lifted in the front. I have seen some pictures with the astute using similar dampers but I guess those ones are different?

    Are there different High Cap Dampers?

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