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About Aviator

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    Oslo, Norway

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  1. The bar between the front stays don’t seem to be from the Supershot. Where is that from?
  2. Update: In Norway there was 2 remaining Kyosho RB6 among all the shops here, Kyosho discontinued these completely. I managed to get a good deal on one of them as it is superseded by the brushed 6.6. Additional bonus with this one is that it takes stick packs, so I can have the same batteries for all my cars.
  3. Thank you for your reply. Rctech was an excellent source of information. I see that parts like the servo saver, Shocks and tower is prone to break on the ReadySets, however I would most likely replace these anyway. Despite these shortcomings I’m leaning towards a RB6 RTR as it is cheap and I can use my existing batteries. The ESC even seems to be lipo 3S capable.
  4. I’m currently considering a 2WD for the collection, and the newer Ultimas caught my eye. The ReadySet is tempting as I have a solid aversion towards painting lexan, and it seem to make sense financially for a hobby, basher, non-track sort of use. I also wanted something more modern to depart from my rere Tamiyas vintage solutions. Here in Norway the RB6 is available for an ok price. When I look at US shops, it seems they only sell the RB6.6 as a ReadySet, but then with a brushed setup (a nono for me) 1. Is the 6 outdated/replaced by the 6.6 or 7? 2. What’s the difference between the 6 and 6.6 apart from the ReadySet brushless vs brushed setup? 3. Can a 6 be modded to a 7 as the 6.6 apparently can? 4. Will we see a RB7 ReadySet? 5. What’s the size of the battery tray?
  5. I got the pleasure of trying this myself today. I gave the Hotshot a Speed Passion 13,5 sensored brushless. This motor had some weird copper plug connectors that needed soldering, a wire and bullet connectors to fit. First test I discovered that changing the TBLE-02S to brushless mode also took away reverse. After turning reverse back on, the Throttle was inverted so I reversed the channel on the transmitter. I tried another endpoint setup (just in case), but the ESC refused to comply. Now I'm considering swapping the ESC for a better one, so I dont have to do the horrible job of opening the radio box again.
  6. I can see the fun in having a car that jumps good. I just have wierd preferences when it comes to design. The B44.3 is still for sale with racing motor/esc/lipos and a ton of stuff for a lot less money, but I’m really on the fence if I should get such an advanced car for non-track use.
  7. The Bandit and the Land Rover is the only Traxxas designs I can tolerate, the others look like over-inflated plastic pool toys.
  8. Maybe not waterproof then. Anyway some of the better ESCs are about $450 here in Norway, which I consider to be too much to put in a $200 car.
  9. I see now that the voltage specs are quite low. I'll just feed it NIMH batteries until I can find a replacement sensored ESC. I find it a bit tricky to find an ESC that: - Has a fan - NIMH and LIPO voltage cutoff - Does not require expensive accessories to program - Is sensored - Is waterproof - Does not cost an arm and a leg
  10. How about LIPO 3S/11.1V? with the TBLE-02S? Would that work? I already have a couple of these.
  11. I only fly with FatShark goggles apart from post-build hover tests. These things are small and fast and I find it really hard to see what’s front and back at a distance in acro mode. They are all 200 frames with 5” props.
  12. I’m really happy with my rere Tamiyas, however being new to RC cars I’m curious to test out one of the others. I originally wanted to go for something bleeding edge technology, but it seems like most reputable cars have a history. I considered the Redcat Racing Tornado, but there is a lot of negative reviews out there. Then I stumbled over a preowned Team Associated B44.3 with tons of spare parts for a very good price, however a friend said there is a reason to hoard parts when owning these, and they require constant maintenance. And they are not really for bashing. So now I’m considering the Traxxas Bandit VXL (for twice the price of the B44.3) Anyway it will rarely see a track, if at all. I would appreciate any opinions or insight on the matter.
  13. Whats the measurement of the hex adapters? I guess if they are too thick one will run out of wheel nut.
  14. The LONG/SHORT/NORMAL shock size seems to be a Tamiya thing. I have to choose between 65, 70, 75, 80, 85, 90, 95, 100, 105, 110mm and a dozen inbetween sizes.
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