Aviator

The bar between the front stays don’t seem to be from the Supershot. Where is that from?

Update: In Norway there was 2 remaining Kyosho RB6 among all the shops here, Kyosho discontinued these completely. I managed to get a good deal on one of them as it is superseded by the brushed 6.6. Additional bonus with this one is that it takes stick packs, so I can have the same batteries for all my cars.

Thank you for your reply. Rctech was an excellent source of information. I see that parts like the servo saver, Shocks and tower is prone to break on the ReadySets, however I would most likely replace these anyway. Despite these shortcomings I’m leaning towards a RB6 RTR as it is cheap and I can use my existing batteries. The ESC even seems to be lipo 3S capable.

I’m currently considering a 2WD for the collection, and the newer Ultimas caught my eye. The ReadySet is tempting as I have a solid aversion towards painting lexan, and it seem to make sense financially for a hobby, basher, non-track sort of use. I also wanted something more modern to depart from my rere Tamiyas vintage solutions. Here in Norway the RB6 is available for an ok price. When I look at US shops, it seems they only sell the RB6.6 as a ReadySet, but then with a brushed setup (a nono for me) 1. Is the 6 outdated/replaced by the 6.6 or 7? 2. What’s the difference between the 6 and 6.6 apart from the ReadySet brushless vs brushed setup? 3. Can a 6 be modded to a 7 as the 6.6 apparently can? 4. Will we see a RB7 ReadySet? 5. What’s the size of the battery tray?

I got the pleasure of trying this myself today. I gave the Hotshot a Speed Passion 13,5 sensored brushless. This motor had some weird copper plug connectors that needed soldering, a wire and bullet connectors to fit. First test I discovered that changing the TBLE-02S to brushless mode also took away reverse. After turning reverse back on, the Throttle was inverted so I reversed the channel on the transmitter. I tried another endpoint setup (just in case), but the ESC refused to comply. Now I'm considering swapping the ESC for a better one, so I dont have to do the horrible job of opening the radio box again.

I can see the fun in having a car that jumps good. I just have wierd preferences when it comes to design. The B44.3 is still for sale with racing motor/esc/lipos and a ton of stuff for a lot less money, but I’m really on the fence if I should get such an advanced car for non-track use.

The Bandit and the Land Rover is the only Traxxas designs I can tolerate, the others look like over-inflated plastic pool toys.

Maybe not waterproof then. Anyway some of the better ESCs are about $450 here in Norway, which I consider to be too much to put in a $200 car.

I see now that the voltage specs are quite low. I'll just feed it NIMH batteries until I can find a replacement sensored ESC. I find it a bit tricky to find an ESC that: - Has a fan - NIMH and LIPO voltage cutoff - Does not require expensive accessories to program - Is sensored - Is waterproof - Does not cost an arm and a leg

How about LIPO 3S/11.1V? with the TBLE-02S? Would that work? I already have a couple of these.

I only fly with FatShark goggles apart from post-build hover tests. These things are small and fast and I find it really hard to see what’s front and back at a distance in acro mode. They are all 200 frames with 5” props.

I’m really happy with my rere Tamiyas, however being new to RC cars I’m curious to test out one of the others. I originally wanted to go for something bleeding edge technology, but it seems like most reputable cars have a history. I considered the Redcat Racing Tornado, but there is a lot of negative reviews out there. Then I stumbled over a preowned Team Associated B44.3 with tons of spare parts for a very good price, however a friend said there is a reason to hoard parts when owning these, and they require constant maintenance. And they are not really for bashing. So now I’m considering the Traxxas Bandit VXL (for twice the price of the B44.3) Anyway it will rarely see a track, if at all. I would appreciate any opinions or insight on the matter.

Some of mine.

Whats the measurement of the hex adapters? I guess if they are too thick one will run out of wheel nut.

The LONG/SHORT/NORMAL shock size seems to be a Tamiya thing. I have to choose between 65, 70, 75, 80, 85, 90, 95, 100, 105, 110mm and a dozen inbetween sizes.

Must be different for brushless motors for cars then. If wire position matters I'm guessing that car motors are possibly two-phase or DC instead of the normal three-phase AC. How many stators are there in these?

For racing drones I bring maybe 10-12 lipos for a day of flying, and as they can't be fully charged for more than a short while, this is my soloution.

Thank you for the excellent explanation. I was not able to find the answer to my noob question on search. Does that mean a rebuilt Hotshot with monoshock front and dual shock front can skip the front stabilizer?

I have a lot of chargers mainly for all my Lipos. IMO the bests charger you can get is a ISDT as can been seen here with orange on it. They do have several models. https://www.isdt.info/

Brushless motors is AFAIK AC motors where it does not matter where you put the three wires. We use mostly brushless motors for Racing drones, and all three wires from ESC to Motor are black. If it spins the wrong way we change it in ESC software or swap two of the black wires. In the picture the lower board in the stack is a 4-in-one ESC that has 2 outputs for 2 motors on each side.

The boomerang mod looks like a good fit but seem to require Boomerang F-parts 9005867, BC/BA bags, X-parts 0225034 and Y-parts 0225035 as a minimum. I'm thinking the dual SuperHotshot mod is probably cheaper and easier to get if monoshock is not a must. At least when I search for all the individual parts. Could someone enlighten me what the purpose of the Stabilizer rods that comes with the monoshock cars? On Thingverse there seems to be a 3-d print copy of the Boomer setup. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2813121

These are 80mm. Will they work for a dual shock front setup? Or is there an advantage with the plastic Tamiya ones?

I had the exact same problem with the 6mm screw on my rere non-super Hotshot, it looks like the bumper part is the same. I eventually gave up and replaced the screw with a racing drone motor mount hex head-screw.

How about using the original Hotshot front spring on a shock like I pictured above? Also, I already have the upgrade set for dual front shocks, but I have no Idea what shocks (type/lenght) to use for that either.

Thank you for your reply. I had a peek at the Boomerang manual (pictured) and found that they use a part called X8 on the front damper. Is that the one? It still looks like the flimsy plastic screw-on system, though the side load would disappear. However I suspect its cheaper and simpler if I am able to just put the pictured blue/purple damper on the Hotshot pins. Would that not work?