Aviator
-
Posts
37 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Posts posted by Aviator
-
-
Update: In Norway there was 2 remaining Kyosho RB6 among all the shops here, Kyosho discontinued these completely. I managed to get a good deal on one of them as it is superseded by the brushed 6.6. Additional bonus with this one is that it takes stick packs, so I can have the same batteries for all my cars.
-
Thank you for your reply. Rctech was an excellent source of information. I see that parts like the servo saver, Shocks and tower is prone to break on the ReadySets, however I would most likely replace these anyway. Despite these shortcomings I’m leaning towards a RB6 RTR as it is cheap and I can use my existing batteries. The ESC even seems to be lipo 3S capable.
-
1
-
-
I’m currently considering a 2WD for the collection, and the newer Ultimas caught my eye. The ReadySet is tempting as I have a solid aversion towards painting lexan, and it seem to make sense financially for a hobby, basher, non-track sort of use. I also wanted something more modern to depart from my rere Tamiyas vintage solutions.
Here in Norway the RB6 is available for an ok price. When I look at US shops, it seems they only sell the RB6.6 as a ReadySet, but then with a brushed setup (a nono for me)
1. Is the 6 outdated/replaced by the 6.6 or 7?
2. What’s the difference between the 6 and 6.6 apart from the ReadySet brushless vs brushed setup?
3. Can a 6 be modded to a 7 as the 6.6 apparently can?
4. Will we see a RB7 ReadySet?
5. What’s the size of the battery tray?
-
On 1/22/2019 at 8:39 AM, Re-Bugged said:
Are the colour coded wires/connections on brushless motors and ESC the same across different brands?
A = Blue
B = Yellow
C = orange
are a Hobbywing motor I have, so if I hook up to the corresponding colours on a Tamiya TBLE 02 ESC then all will be fine?
I got the pleasure of trying this myself today. I gave the Hotshot a Speed Passion 13,5 sensored brushless. This motor had some weird copper plug connectors that needed soldering, a wire and bullet connectors to fit. First test I discovered that changing the TBLE-02S to brushless mode also took away reverse. After turning reverse back on, the Throttle was inverted so I reversed the channel on the transmitter. I tried another endpoint setup (just in case), but the ESC refused to comply. Now I'm considering swapping the ESC for a better one, so I dont have to do the horrible job of opening the radio box again.
-
1
-
-
12 minutes ago, Baddon said:
Another Traxxas fan.
I changed 3 of our families bashers from WT-01's to Stampedes (over inflated plastic pool toys) but they JUMP soooooo good on a BMX track. if your not after the Jumping and crashing that I need them to stand up to- then the Rustler or Bandit are great as well.
I have not had any problems with ours.
I can see the fun in having a car that jumps good. I just have wierd preferences when it comes to design. The B44.3 is still for sale with racing motor/esc/lipos and a ton of stuff for a lot less money, but I’m really on the fence if I should get such an advanced car for non-track use.
-
17 hours ago, MICHAELs TopForce17 said:
If going traxxas check out the slash starts at 189usd and lots of videos on YouTube for upgrades etc. If you want to save a little you can get a roller on eBay for like 100usd or less.
The Bandit and the Land Rover is the only Traxxas designs I can tolerate, the others look like over-inflated plastic pool toys.
-
5 hours ago, TurnipJF said:
How much do you consider an arm and a leg?
Sensored and waterproof seldom go together as very few sensored motors are waterproof, and if the motor isn't waterproof, there isn't much point in the ESC being waterproof as the car would need to be kept dry anyway.
Maybe not waterproof then. Anyway some of the better ESCs are about $450 here in Norway, which I consider to be too much to put in a $200 car.
-
30 minutes ago, TurnipJF said:
That significantly exceeds the specs of the ESC and is likely to make the magic smoke come out.
I see now that the voltage specs are quite low. I'll just feed it NIMH batteries until I can find a replacement sensored ESC.
I find it a bit tricky to find an ESC that:
- Has a fan
- NIMH and LIPO voltage cutoff
- Does not require expensive accessories to program
- Is sensored
- Is waterproof
- Does not cost an arm and a leg
-
1
-
1
-
-
How about LIPO 3S/11.1V? with the TBLE-02S? Would that work? I already have a couple of these.
-
37 minutes ago, Fabia130vRS said:
they look nice, I am about to have my FPV gear, a monitor with video reciver, I learn to fly with a eachine e013, it has a camera with integrated transmitter that I wanna use with the monitor as I orderd the eachine e013 without gogels to learn to fly in sight. Really good at it at the moment, so I feel comfident about my big drone build, orderd a flight controller with esc two days ago, and that is the final part missing. Also from curiosity I orderd a eachine video reciever for android iPhone devices... interesting also..
I only fly with FatShark goggles apart from post-build hover tests. These things are small and fast and I find it really hard to see what’s front and back at a distance in acro mode. They are all 200 frames with 5” props.
-
I’m really happy with my rere Tamiyas, however being new to RC cars I’m curious to test out one of the others. I originally wanted to go for something bleeding edge technology, but it seems like most reputable cars have a history. I considered the Redcat Racing Tornado, but there is a lot of negative reviews out there. Then I stumbled over a preowned Team Associated B44.3 with tons of spare parts for a very good price, however a friend said there is a reason to hoard parts when owning these, and they require constant maintenance. And they are not really for bashing. So now I’m considering the Traxxas Bandit VXL (for twice the price of the B44.3) Anyway it will rarely see a track, if at all. I would appreciate any opinions or insight on the matter.
-
Some of mine.
-
1
-
1
-
-
Whats the measurement of the hex adapters? I guess if they are too thick one will run out of wheel nut.
-
On 1/21/2019 at 7:53 PM, S-PCS said:
Let me try to illustrate this particular point.
Hotshot Lower Control Arms have SHORT shock mounts.
Boomerang Lower Control Arms fit Hotshot, have LONG shock mounts, and will let you use normal shock lengths.
Simple bolt-in mod to keep the monoshock setup.
The LONG/SHORT/NORMAL shock size seems to be a Tamiya thing. I have to choose between 65, 70, 75, 80, 85, 90, 95, 100, 105, 110mm and a dozen inbetween sizes.
-
32 minutes ago, colda said:
It might matter a bit, going on the basis that smoke came out of one of my motors when I got the wires wrong
Must be different for brushless motors for cars then. If wire position matters I'm guessing that car motors are possibly two-phase or DC instead of the normal three-phase AC. How many stators are there in these?
-
1 hour ago, DI driver said:
Thanks for the info - that's a charging party you have going on there!
For racing drones I bring maybe 10-12 lipos for a day of flying, and as they can't be fully charged for more than a short while, this is my soloution.
-
1
-
-
13 minutes ago, AJB123 said:
The springs on a "normal" suspension arrangement (i.e. one spring per wheel) resist the car's weight and also resist it trying to lean over in corners. If you push down the front of the car, both springs compress and it tries to push back up again. If you lean the car to one side, one spring compresses and the other gets longer, so they push back to try to make itself level again.
Some cars (and most real road cars) add a stabilizer (or anti roll bar) to this. It does nothing when you push the front of the car down (it can just rotate freely), but if you lean it to one side then the bar has to twist for one wheel to go up whilst the other goes down, so it gives extra resistance to roll in corners without making the car's springs/shocks stiffer over bumps, crests, jumps etc.
With a monoshock, there is literally zero resistance to roll. If you push the car down then the springs compress, resist and push it back up again. But if you lean the car from side to side then the spring can just move from side to side without compressing. In the case of the Hotshot rear, if you lean from side to side, then the little aluminium links move in an opposite motion, the drop link can move from side to side a bit, and again the spring doesn't compress and nothing pushes back.
So, with no anti roll bar, on a Hotshot the car would just lean over to the end stops on every corner. The anti roll bars stop it from doing that. On a car with 2 rear shocks but a single front monoshock, the rears will resist the roll. But, without a front anti roll bar, you're making the rear do all of the work of resisting roll with the front contributing nothing. This will tend to make the car lean over more in corners, and also oversteer more as the rear is doing more work during cornering.
Thank you for the excellent explanation. I was not able to find the answer to my noob question on search. Does that mean a rebuilt Hotshot with monoshock front and dual shock front can skip the front stabilizer?
-
I have a lot of chargers mainly for all my Lipos. IMO the bests charger you can get is a ISDT as can been seen here with orange on it. They do have several models. https://www.isdt.info/
-
Brushless motors is AFAIK AC motors where it does not matter where you put the three wires. We use mostly brushless motors for Racing drones, and all three wires from ESC to Motor are black. If it spins the wrong way we change it in ESC software or swap two of the black wires. In the picture the lower board in the stack is a 4-in-one ESC that has 2 outputs for 2 motors on each side.
-
2
-
-
The boomerang mod looks like a good fit but seem to require Boomerang F-parts 9005867, BC/BA bags, X-parts 0225034 and Y-parts 0225035 as a minimum. I'm thinking the dual SuperHotshot mod is probably cheaper and easier to get if monoshock is not a must. At least when I search for all the individual parts.
Could someone enlighten me what the purpose of the Stabilizer rods that comes with the monoshock cars?
On Thingverse there seems to be a 3-d print copy of the Boomer setup. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2813121
-
These are 80mm. Will they work for a dual shock front setup? Or is there an advantage with the plastic Tamiya ones?
-
5 hours ago, AJB123 said:
Electronics and steering in, configured and working, and I've just fitted the front bumper. How was the bumper on yours? I had a battle with that little 6mm screw - it wasn't really long enough to bite in the aluminium hex part in the gearbox... Maybe it cross-threaded slightly and took out a tiny fraction of a turn, but hardly... And then it just wouldn't bite. In the end I had to spin the aluminium part round 180 degrees to get another clean thread, and swapped to a different 6mm screw. This time it seemed to bite OK, but still doesn't seem to go in very far although it did at least tighten.
The one good thing is that I found a spare 3x6mm screw in my original vintage Fox's box (I think I'd had to buy a spare screw bag A back in about 1988 when I bent a long screw) and it was about 0.2mm longer, so figured it might bite better. I like that there's a shared vintage part between them! (Along with the old humbrol enamel matt flesh paint for the driver's face which has somehow survived 30 years!)
I had the exact same problem with the 6mm screw on my rere non-super Hotshot, it looks like the bumper part is the same. I eventually gave up and replaced the screw with a racing drone motor mount hex head-screw.
-
31 minutes ago, MadInventor said:
No, The hotshot uses a very strong spring on it's mono shock system, and the springs on the dampers pictured will be way too soft as they are for 1/10 on road cars. Also the amount of stroke on the shock piston is reduced, as the shock is physically shorter.
How about using the original Hotshot front spring on a shock like I pictured above? Also, I already have the upgrade set for dual front shocks, but I have no Idea what shocks (type/lenght) to use for that either.
-
26 minutes ago, Saito2 said:
The Hot Shot uses a somewhat unique (and less than effective) mounting system for its front monoshock. The mount points are below and inboard of the outer ends of the shock. As such, the shock is compressed from below rather than the more optimal, outer ends. This results in several issues. The shock is side-loaded as well as compressed (literally trying to bend the shock in half as well as compressing it). It also causes shock/spring action to dramatically fall away after it reaches its over-center point in the stroke.
Tamiya fixed this issue themselves in the next monoshock version of the buggy, the Boomerang. If you wish to keep the monoshock (as well as be able to use normal, readily available shock lengths), add the B10 and B11 parts from the B parts sprue from the Boomerang kit. These two parts go over top the stock Hot Shot mounts and provide new, correct shock mounting locations.
Thank you for your reply. I had a peek at the Boomerang manual (pictured) and found that they use a part called X8 on the front damper. Is that the one? It still looks like the flimsy plastic screw-on system, though the side load would disappear. However I suspect its cheaper and simpler if I am able to just put the pictured blue/purple damper on the Hotshot pins. Would that not work?
Boomerang VS Super Hotshot
in Re-Release Discussions
Posted
The bar between the front stays don’t seem to be from the Supershot. Where is that from?