Aviator
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Posts posted by Aviator
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Today i replaced all Tamiya connectors with SY60. I have 6 charger channels with XT60 connectors and I just don’t want to fiddle with adapters. Besides the Tamiya ones seems a bit outdated, and I just don’t like them.
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Never mind. After fiddling with this for way too long I figured out that all my D6’s are mounted upside down on the uprights 🙄
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And now I’m stuck on the front uprights. I can’t get the 3 BC2 2x6mm screws to sit. The ball connector seems too big to fit between the ball plate and the suspension arm. I’m guessing there is supposed to be some play here as it is a ball connector, but this seems very tight.
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Additional question: When replacing plastic bearings with metal ones on the axles. Do you also replace the Ceramic Grease with Molybdenum?
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49 minutes ago, Saito2 said:
Starting with the obvious, is the bearing fully seated in the gearbox housing? Sometimes they can be tough to push in fully. If so, remove the bearing. Measure the thickness of the bearing and the depth of the hole. Calipers are useful in this case. If the bearing is thicker that the hole depth, then nothing you do will help. The bearings are the wrong size or more likely, not toleranced well. The Hot Shot comes standard with bushings. Where did the bearings come from? You could also compare the bearing thickness on a flat surface to that of the standard plastic bushing for any great discrepancies. These are just some "diagnosing" ideas I'm throwing out. I've never encountered any molding issues with the Hot Shot gearcases but there's a first time for everything. Good luck and let us know how it works out.
Thank you for the reply. After about 100 attempts and some knife scraping in the hole the bearing finally seated. My main concern was not to break the plastic if excessive force was applied.
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After dreaming about Tamiyas in my younger days I finally could start my first build many years later. I am currently building the Hotshot rere after an initial delay waiting for a replacement for the plastic bearings.
I only got to section 2 before running into problems. First I could not find B7 to attach the drive gear to the rear gearbox. After scratching my head I found it together with the cage and the battery side guards. Moving on, I am now at the part where the Bevel Gear (MR11) mates with MR13/MR2/MR15/MD2/BD4. When inserting the Bearing (MR2) into the gearbox housing, it does not fit flush and the Drive gear scrapes on the edge of the bearing. I have tried all the MR2 bearings and even my extra 1150 bearings but none of them seems to sit flush in its hole. Could I please have some advice here?
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3 hours ago, Jonathon Gillham said:
13.5T with a 17T pinion is perfect in a Boomerang, but they are the pinnacle of RC cars. I assume they would be good in a Hotshot too since they share gearboxes...
I run a cheap Trackstar V1 which is about USD35. Speed Passion are good for bashing too. These are older motors now which still work well in a fun car but would get cleaned up at a racetrack by the newer offerings. If you want newer and still cheaper then look at SkyRC Ares, Surpass V4S which give good performance at a good price (people claim these are awesome and will win races, as i can't win races I can't verify that)
I see a lot of these motors come with just solder pads? for the phase connectors. I'm totally comfortable with soldering but it just seems like a weak spot on an exposed motor.
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Thanks for your detailed reply Juggular.
As I'm new to RC Cars I can only draw experience from the racing drone world. Brushed motors would wear out quickly and often be notoriously unreliable in that application. We did have a race to own the most overpowered and fastest (brushless) drone in the beginning. However a rocket with an insane thrust to weight ratio was **** near unflyable on a track, that requires fine control in level flight. A method to rectify overpowered motors was to limit the throttle curve on the transmitter. We used Frsky radios with open source software that allowed us to limit max throttle to say 75% and then stretch the throttle authority over the full travel of the throttle stick. In that way you also limit the max Amp draw so you could avoid fried ESCs and puffed Lipo batteries.
My main objective in the car is to have a reliable no-maintenance motor. I'm not looking for speed. I am so new to RC Cars, that I will most likely faceplant the car in a wall if it's too fast anyway.
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A rere Super Hotshot was under my tree. I am now the owner of both the Hotshot and Super Hotshot rere. A bit of overcompensating for not getting a Tamiya kit in my childhood.
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Hi, I'm new to the forums and also new to RC cars. Back in the 80's the Hotshot was my dream car, but I never got it, until now with the rere.
I realize I should have spent more time on research before getting the kit, as my build is now on hold while I'm waiting 6 weeks for replacements for the plastic "bearings" and the pin screws for the wishbones/a-arms. I am now trying to be way ahead by ordering dual suspension rebuild/upgrade parts and a brushless setup now.
Suspension upgrade
Starting with the front I figured out I need the Super hotshot parts for the stay, BB27/BB28∕BB17∕BB18. However the screws/washers/spacer do not seem to be included. In order to attach dampers I seem to need BA3 screw/BB6 washer/BC11 tube/BC10 spacer/BA7 nut for upper on each side, and BC1 screw/BB6 washer/BC11 tube/BA7 nut (and BB1/BB6 to attach the stay) for lower on each side. In order to get these parts it seems like I have to buy the whole suspension bag for the Super Hotshot, which seems a bit excessive as I plan on not using those dampers. Is there another way?
Brushless motor
Coming from Racing drones I have a solid aversion towards brushed motors, however I do realize Tamiyas legacy and that these cars originally came with these. But they did replace the mechanical speed controller with an Electronic one and could might as well replace the motor. I've been studying some kits and found a cheap option from Aliexpress: HIINST Waterproof B3650 4300KV Brushless Motor w/ 60A ESC Combo Set for 1/10 RC Car L824 for US$ 28. The description states this is a 4 pole 12 slot does that translate to a 12T motor? And does this whole thing physically fit and is a good match for a rere Hotshot on 2S/3S Lipo setup?
Thanks in advance
Hotshot rere front monoshock
in Re-Release Discussions
Posted
After building my first RC car, the rere Hotshot and doing all kinds of stupid mistakes during the build, it was finally ready for some outdoor driving. I've read a lot of complaints about this particular suspension setup and the plastic parts seemed a bit flimsy during build. I even ordered a rebuild kit for dual front dampers for later.
On my third battery, the front shock came apart. I have not tried to put it back together yet (its drying on the bathroom floor right now) But I'm thinking I should at least replace the front shock to something more durable.
After searching a bit here, the consensus seems to be that the front shock is 78mm. However when I measure center hole to center hole on the plastic parts I get 65mm. Hence it seems I need something like the last picture. Is this correct?