nbTMM
-
Content Count
299 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Posts posted by nbTMM
-
-
How much can the universal shaft move axially in the hub with the wheel attached? If wheel/shaft can move in and out of the hub more than 0.5mm that's a problem because when shoved sideways it can shock load the bearings - if this is the case add shims between the universal shaft and inner bearing so there is only about 0.1mm movement. Similarly if there is zero movement, the bearings are preloaded which will cause premature bearing wear. If it's too tight with no shims, try sanding down the back of the wheel hex (or just try different hexes, they all have slightly different tolerances).
And yes there is a big difference in the life of bearings due to their quality. I have had quality ABEC 7 rated bearings last 10x as long as cheap ebay ones, and i'm only paying 2-3x the price for them.-
1
-
1
-
-
What I don't like about the CS setup is that the throttle control isn't intuitive. At low throttle where the car is basically functioning as RWD, more throttle equals more oversteer. At higher throttle, more throttle equals less oversteer as the car reverts to a 4WD rally style drift with both front and rear wheels spinning significantly faster than the road speed. The other thing I don't like is that due to the CS ratio, the car seems to get 'locked on' to drifting around a circle that satisfies the CS ratio (front and rear wheels both having similar traction) and it is very difficult to widen the line that the car is taking without drastically changing the amount of throttle and therefore the speed of the car. You can see this in the following video when I was trying to drift a big oval around the two paint cans, it was really like connecting a series a equal radius arcs rather than drifting a continuous oval. I had some problems with the car getting 'stuck' in a slide also - I'd be on full lock and whatever I did with the throttle I couldn't get it to transition back the other way. I think part of this is due to having negative ackerman. It probably needs slightly positive ackerman so when the throttle is let off slightly it transitions into a slide going the other way.
I think CS works well for effortless sliding around in a big area but for drifting a track with pin point accuracy I think a RWD setup will work better, so that will be where this build is headed next.
-
Since a CS drift car requires more steering to prevent spinning than a 50:50 drift car, the steering has to be set up for greater steering lock. The standard TT02 setup is not suitable for two reasons.
Firstly, it creates too much ackerman angle - i.e. when you steer to the right the right wheel turns a lot more than the left wheel. This creates a braking effect at the front of the car when drifting as one of the wheels isn't pointed in the direction that the car is travelling in. For 50:50 and CS cars with a small CS ratio this can be desirable as it promotes oversteer. For large ratio CS setups and rear wheel drive cars it's undesirable as the car will spin too easily.
Secondly, when the inner wheel is turned, the angle between the steering hub and the tie rod becomes close to zero. Note how the red and pink lines are near 90degrees when pointed straight ahead, and near 0 degrees when on full lock:
On full lock the steering has no control over the inner wheel and the hub will just flap around due to forces from the road. The tyre can rub the chassis resulting in an unintended braking effect and a spin.
The solution is to change the geometry of the steering arms. I'm using these extended ones from active hobby. Additionally I'm using some home made aluminium brackets on the hubs which move the tie rod mounting point outwards and allow the tie rods to be a more reasonable length. They also dial out the ackerman from the steering, in fact a little bit too much as now I have slight negative ackerman; when turning right the left wheel turns a bit more than the right wheel.
You can see how now the angle that the tie rods make with the hubs stays within about 45 and 90 degrees for all steering angles. When pointing straight ahead the angle is about 45 degrees so the straight line stability won't be as good as the standard steering, but it'll be much more solid and stable while drifting.
For suspension up front i'm using standard hubs, standard lower arms (with steel ball hopup), a 5mm ball end installed on to the top of the hub and aftermarket turnbuckle upper arms with a 5mm rod end installed. I rebuilt the kit CVA shocks with 3-hole pistons, 700cst oil and red (soft) springs from the 53163 spring set. I drilled a new hole in the lower arm so I could attach the shock to the arm further in than standard. This creates a really soft suspension with really long travel. I want the suspension to react as slowly as possible as this should make the car easier to drift, and won't be easily unsettled by bumps in the road
Front driveshafts are a combination of 3Racing SAK-X27 double cardan shafts and Yeah Racing adjustable rod ends (to shorten them appropriately). These don't 'clatter' when on lock like universal shafts do because they are a true constant velocity joint. Additionally they can't fall out like the TG10 cups and metal dog bones can.
Top: TG10 cup, metal dog bone - standard parts from a TT02RR
Middle: yeah racing universal shaft
Bottom: double cardan shaft
The steering servo is just a cheap metal gear turnigy one: 12kg, 0.18s. Solid aluminium horn for zero slop (and because I don't care much for this servo). It's a slow servo, but faster is not always better for gyro assisted drifting. The slower the servo is, the more you can turn up the gain of your gyro (= more steering lock from gyro) without instability occurring.
The rear suspension has the same super soft long travel shock/arm setup as the front, but with yellow (medium) springs from the same set, due to the TT02 having a slightly rear-biased weight distribution. Driveshafts are the TG10 style with metal dogbones as came with the TT02RR
Hubs are some 3degree toe hubs (yeah racing iirc) that I cut and added M3 threads for 5mm balls to attach - not very well mind you, the balls need to be angled in to shorten the upper arms more and achieve more camber gain. Upper arms are from yeah racing's RWD conversion line, and the strut tower is a carbon one from Eagle racing - I don't recommend the latter, get the Tamiya brand one the fitment is a lot better.
Suspension flex is more like a 1:1 street car
For electronics I'm just using a TBLE02S and 2S LiPo battery. NiMH had plenty of power, but LiPo voltages remain more constant from fully charged to empty, which helps since drifting is sensitive to throttle control. NiMH would have you barely touching the throttle on a full pack and having to floor it constantly when it was almost empty.
For the radio I'm using my Flysky/turnigy GT5 with inbuilt gyro. The GT5 gyro is a lot better than the cheap standalone GC301 gyro I tried previously. It steers much faster into a slide, but steers back to straight much more slowly. The result is that you can turn the gyro gain up way higher before the gyro becomes unstable (gyro starts swerving when trying to drive in a straight line).
After driving this setup I changed the front diff to this eagle racing one which has the same gear ratio as standard (39t/15t), therefore dropping the effective CS ratio from 2:1 to 1.66:1
With the 2:1 ratio I either didn't have enough steering lock or enough driving talent to catch the slides
-
Taking a break from the TT02B while I wait for some parts to arrive, so I started the drift build. I built this initially as a countersteer/'CS' setup where the rear wheels are over-driven and the front wheels are driven by a one-way diff. This sends drive to the front wheels only when the rear wheels spin a certain % faster than the front wheels, so it allows RWD behaviour up to a point. If the car slides past a certain angle or you floor the throttle you get 4WD which helps pull the car out of a drift and prevent spinning. Later I decided that this setup wasn't really what I wanted, but I'll show the build process anyway.
Inspecting wear on the stock rear diff from 3S running. There is some, the teeth of the pinion are partially rounded over but it still ran well like this.
Chassis fully stripped
I'd stripped out the threads around the motor mount before and installed brass M3 inserts. Some of these had pulled out a bit over time due to removing and reinstalling the spur gear cover - they can be pushed back in with a soldering iron at 200*C.
Chassis parts after cleaning with warm water, dish liquid and a paintbrush
In the rear I used a steel geared eagle racing spool with 16t pinion and 25t crown gear, which gives a 66% overdrive compared to the standard 15/39t diff gears.
The prop shaft needs to be modified to fit the Eagle pinion gear, as it uses a drive pin and an M3 bolt to hold it on to the end of the prop joint, instead of the flats which the stock gear uses. A spacer and a stack of shims position the diff pinion gear correctly. This isn't the best setup as everything presses down against the motor spur gear and its drive pin, which locks the spur solid on the joint. You don't really want this as some slop in the spur gear will allow for some misalignment between it and the motor pinion gear (which there will be some as it's a plastic chassis). The result of this is some additional noise from the gears, but it works OK.
Up front i'm using a one-way diff for a HSP touring car with a set of plastic 42t/13t underdrive gears made by Active Hobby. The crown gear required the bolt pattern be redrilled for the rectangular pattern on the HSP diff center. The outdrives and bearings are from an Eagle Racing one-way. The combination of the under driven front diff and overdriven rear diff make the 'CS ratio' about 2:1. I.e. the front wheels aren't driven unless the rear wheels are spinning twice as fast.
The standard plastic propshaft is used since it is fine for the low power
For the motor i'm using a brushless Hobbywing Justock 21.5t. Gears are 64dp, 104t spur and 36t pinion. Together with the overdriven rear diff, the effective final drive ratio is about 4.5
-
2
-
-
I think it's just down to bad/inferior firmware design more than anything. A lot of it's behaviours seem to me like corners cut in the firmware rather than intentional or because of a hardware limitation. The 120A GenII is sensored or sensorless and will happily change directions when the motor is still spinning at non-negligible rpm (probably several thousand rpm) in for/brake/rev mode. Also if the sensor cable is unplugged on the GenII it seamlessly transitions into sensorless mode (runs a bit rougher and turbo/boost gets disabled iirc). If the sensor cable comes out on the 80A turbo esc it just tries to fry your motor since it thinks that it's stationary so just continuously powers one winding.
I can see how not being able to reverse until stopped would actually be a benefit on a race track, as you can have reverse available but never accidentally reverse when double-braking. -
Sounds faulty, I'd return it. I have a trackstar 80A turbo ESC and don't like it much. It does some really stupid stuff like you can't reverse until the car has actually come to a dead stop so if you're going down a steep hill and the brakes won't hold it's impossible to get it into reverse. Also if you're rolling backwards and try to accelerate forwards it holds the brakes until it comes to a dead stop and then goes forwards at maximum punch, regardless of your punch setting. Again, if the brakes aren't enough to stop it rolling backwards you'll never get it to accelerate forwards.
I find the Trackstar 120A GenII ESCs much more polished and well worth the extra $. I've had zero issues with the two that I have. -
That piece that clips in under the prop joint can be omitted entirely. It's sole purpose is to limit steering throw as you've found out. The hubs and lower arms have stops on them as well which you can cut off to achieve more steering lock. If you remove all that it is possible in a crash for the tie rod to over-centre where it attaches to the hub, jamming the steering. You can just pop it back by hand, but it could cost you valuable track time. If you're using dog bones instead of universal shafts it is possible for the dog bone to be ejected when this happens also.
Upper ball joint can be tightened with the steel ball hopup but money is better spent just changing the top arm to a 4.8/5mm ball joint and turnbuckle arm.
You are right that wider track is better and it is worth trying to get as close to 190mm as possible. Should be able to fit 8 or 9mm hexes with the standard driveshafts if you use serrated wheel nuts (e.g. Tamiya #42282). The wheels will stay on securely with only 2 or 3 threads engaged on the nut because the serrations will bite into the plastic wheel and lock in place. The downside is that they chew up your wheels every time you take them on and off.
The body being 200mm may be considered oversize - depends on your local club rules. Usually at a club level they will be more strict on the track width of the chassis than the actual body. -
1 hour ago, yogi-bear said:If they were in better condition I think I would just keep the lids and mount them in frames
Do it anyway? The wear is part of their story
-
4
-
-
4 hours ago, mtbkym01 said:There are electric 1/8 classes and these things have insane torque, but lap times are no faster than the Nitro versions.
That probably comes more down to the chassis than motor power. Nitro or electric, if you have the will you can put enough motor power in a car to make it wheelie (or do a rolling burnout) constantly yet you never see anyone popping a wheelie down the entire main straight on a racetrack - having a car with that much power is just uncontrollable and not very fun to drive so it's either banned, or in the unlimited classes people just don't do it because it's not consistent enough to win races. The difference in lap times between foam tyre and rubber tyre cars is far greater than the difference between high turn rubber tyre and mod rubber tyre because both rubber tyre cars can only corner so quickly before they loose traction (or roll). The only difference in speeds is on the straights. With modern ESCs you can calm down the stall torque and increase the mid-top end torque which makes it have a powerband more like a nitro.
I'm an 'electric guy' because the maintenance is far easier and running costs are lower - 'fuel' is virtually free, and electric does not need warming up, retuning of oily bits, doesn't disturb quiet neighbourhoods and doesn't care about atmospheric conditions - it'll make the same power rain, hail or shine. If you leave it on a shelf for 5 years it will still run like did the last time it ran. Instant torque makes it more usable in a smaller area - but can eat drivetrains. -
2 hours ago, mtbkym01 said:Go watch a 1/8 nitro Onroad
Not slow, but neither is 1/10 EP/TC mod on a big track, or 1/12 pan cars on virtually any track. I was more referring to bashers than on road racing though - if you're on throttle more than you aren't, it's slow
Most sub-$1k nitro bashers are slow.
-
1 hour ago, nowinaminute said:Drove an electric, got asked what "CC" it was.
I get it every time I go out these days.
I've got nothing but love for Nitro but why do the uninitiated still have it in their head that Nitro is the be all and end all of RC after all these years? It would be like people coming up and asking about your discman when clearly it's an ipod.
"whoahh that's well fast, what CC is it?"
"It's electric"
*confused look* "oh right.....it looked like it was fast"
"well it has a brushless motor and it's running on 4s"
*lobotomy face* "my cousin had a petrol one"
Lol. I've never owned a petrol/nitro rc car but whenever I see one my first thought is 'holy cow that is slow'.
-
If you do glue, drill air holes in the wheels (two 1mm holes or one 1.5mm hole should do) and add foams. With glue, but no foams and no air hole they'll be 'pumped up' so to speak and when one gets an (inevitable) air leak they will start behaving differently causing erratic handling. With an air hole, glue, and no foams they might collapse too easily under load.
-
25 minutes ago, solitone said:I put it also on ball bearings, am I wrong?
Shouldn't need to put any grease when installing ball bearings on shafts, although it won't hurt if you have.
-
Looks good to me. For what it's worth, I just upgraded mine to carbon shock towers and here's how I've set it up with stock shocks.
Rear shocks have 800cst oil, stock springs with the largest spring collar/spacer. Mounted to the holes as pictured. X3 must be installed on the shock shaft as per instructions otherwise the piston will crash into the rubber bladder, possibly damaging it over time. Even with it there is plenty of compression.
Droop:
Settled:
Compression:
Front shocks have 1500cst oil, reason being that the suspension arm has much higher leverage on the front shock due to how they are mounted, so much higher shock and spring rates have to be used to realise similar effective rates at the front and rear wheels. Despite this, the stock front springs were still way too stiff, even using the softest combination of mounting holes, so I substituted springs from a TT02 road car. These are significantly softer than the stock TT02B springs and also physically shorter by about 1cm. I stretched the springs to make them a little bit longer, and installed all 3 collars/spacers. The collars are just enough to keep the spring captive (so the spring perch doesn't fall out), they are not providing any preload on the spring. V11 is omitted from the shock shaft to provide maximum compression. This is slightly stiffer than the rear (both shock and spring) and has slightly less suspension travel - should help in making the handling tend towards understeer instead of oversteer, and keeping the nose up higher so when it comes across sticks/rocks/bumps the chassis ends up sliding over them rather than bulldozing them with the nose of the car.
Droop:
Settled:
Compression:
Drop test from 1ft/30cm (watch the shock towers / chassis because the shell isn't secured down)
My battery is a 5000mAh 3S pack so it is heavier than average (429g) - the result is my suspension will effectively be a bit softer because it has to deal with more weight. Ride height is about 29mm - you'll probably want a bit lower than this to improve cornering performance and prevent traction rolling. I'm using the inner mounting points for the turnbuckle upper arms as I want to prevent traction rolling as much as possible due to my raised height and increased weight. Shortening the turn buckles and using the outer holes will give camber gain (wheel cambers as it compresses) which will improve cornering grip by keeping the outer tyres flatter with the road when the car body rolls in a corner.
I haven't had the chance to run it yet but I think this will be a good start for my intentions (30-50km/h bashing over rough ground and grass). On the bench it is miles ahead of the stock configuration (which was laughable). I suspect if anything the first change I'll probably need to make is either to put heavier oil in the rear shocks, and/or move the rear shock lower mounting point to the middle hole and readjust the top hole to achieve the same ride height as now.-
1
-
-
Not all lithium based greases are plastic safe. If they have a petroleum base they may soften or dissolve plastic after prolonged exposure.
What you want is 'silicone grease'. It is literally silicone oil like you fill your shocks with, but with a thickener to turn it into a grease. The thickener is usually silica powder (very fine sand...). You can buy it cheaply at an auto parts store as 'dielectric grease' for spark plug boots, waterproofing electrical connectors and so forth. I believe the yellow grease that comes with the kits is just silicone grease. If it's too thick just mix it with some shock oil!
-
1
-
-
I would not place too much importance on making the suspension so stiff that it doesn't bottom out when jumping, because you'll probably compromise how it performs over smaller bumps. I don't race, but from a bashing point of view, the chassis hitting the ground when landing big jumps is desirable, as it prevents breaking your suspension.
Your drop test looks good to me. Perhaps the rear shocks could do with slightly thicker oil but I'd drive it how it is first. Then change the oil, drive it again and see what you think. -
I'm a fan of the Yeah Racing motor mount, but only so I can use gears other than the 0.6mod combinations supported by the standard mount. I doubt it does much to act as a heatsink. The majority of the motor mount surface area which isn't covered by the motor itself is either surrounded by plastic or only exposed to the air inside the gearbox which is stagnant. If you use the cardboard spacer between the motor and the motor mount (which you should, to prevent dirt entering the gearbox and allow for thermal expansion so the bolts don't loosen off), it acts as a thermal insulator so the motor mount won't receive much heat from the motor anyway. The motor can itself has much more surface area, is exposed to the air moving through the chassis (or motor fan) and therefore already functions very well as a heatsink.
-
1
-
-
I think 50746 is the correct one for a TT02. 54753 looks like it has black springs that are shorter than normal for a TT02. As long as the CVA shaft is the same length, you can omit the internal plastic droop-limiting spacer, use the shorter eyelet and the springs from the friction shocks that came with the TT02. That's how the TT02 kits which include CVAs run them, which gives more suspension travel.
-
19 hours ago, TwistedxSlayer said:The TB01 rally diffs are steel and drop straight in but you would need to change to splined out drives. Also TT01 diffs will fit also but I don't know if they are steel.
Good tip! Can get a TB01 A-parts bag which has two diffs for about the same price as one set of GPM gears. TT01 diffs are plastic with aluminium spider/outdrive gears if i'm not wrong.
19 hours ago, Jonathon Gillham said:I also built a TT02D on friday and paid attention to the areas you pointed out, especially how you shimmed the diffs, and my one went together perfectly without needing shims. There is also minimal play in the arms which surprised me, but of course the first time it hits anything it will need shims. Even the TA07 needed shims until I bought the aluminium suspension blocks. Do you know if play develops in the drive shaft or should mine be good forever?
You'll get more play as things wear out - bearings becoming sloppy, gear teeth wearing down and especially if a bearing locks up solid and start spinning on the shaft it'll wear the shaft down. On sensible power (2S, <4000kv), and not crashing too much, it should take a long time for that to happen - tens or hundreds of battery packs. It might get a bit noisier over time due to wear on the gears and backlash.
-
2
-
-
Usually you just keep going to a lower number until traction rolling becomes an issue and the numbers are reasonably comparable between brands in terms of grip. Stay away from 24mm Tamiya slick tyres because they 'go off' after being heat cycled a few times and stop gripping - then they are only good for bashing. The popular pre-glued brands (sweep, schumacher sorex, muchmore rush, volante etc) generally run very true. Tamiya wheels are reasonably cheap, run true, and don't shatter on impacts. Not sure how they stack up in terms of weight though. As long as you clean the edges to be glued with a solvent, work the foam/tyre onto the wheel to make sure it's seated properly, and then just ran a bead of CA glue around the join, they will run true enough. Use thin CA glue and it'll run far enough into the joint to prevent debeading. Don't peel back the tyre to glue like the TT02 instructions show, that's a recipe for a huge mess and imbalance / out of round.
-
1
-
-
Trial and error, driver preference, type of track
. Just try different spring/shock settings, ride heights and see what works best for you.
-
1 hour ago, legau said:Thanks for your advices. What is the viscosity of the stock tamiya oil ?
I have 1130cst oil, team losi. I already filled the rear shocks.
When you say too soft, you mean oil not thick enough or spring too soft ?
if I mount the shock to the inner holes, they will be softer, I can use spacers for the spring then, but they will have also more ground clearance and with 1130cst oil, should be ok for that type of track no?
The yellow oil in the kit is 400cst. Cst is a linear viscosity scale so 800cst is twice as thick as 400. You can also mix silicone oil to create an inbetween viscosity e.g. if you fill a shock halfway with 400cst, then the rest of the way with 1000cst you get (400+1000)/2 = 700cst.
By the 'shock' I just mean the part with the oil, not the spring. So a soft shock is one with thin oil like the yellow kit oil. A stiff/hard shock is one with thick oil. Shocks provide resistance to suspension movement. The faster the suspension is moving, the more the shock tries to slow down that movement. The shock has two purposes, firstly to damp the springs so the car doesn't bounce out of control after the driving over a bump, and secondly to provide a resistance to hard impacts so the suspension doesn't bottom out when hitting sharp bumps or landing off a jump. If the shocks is too stiff (thick oil) they will restrict suspension movement too much and it'll be like having no suspension at all - the car will crash violently over rough ground and other things will act as the primary suspension like the deformation of the tyres and flex in the chassis. If the shock is too soft (thin oil) the suspension will bounce uncontrollably over rough ground, and bottom out easily. Most tamiya kits will have you setup the car under-damped (oil too thin).
The springs purpose is to control body roll and set the droop/compression ratio. Droop is how much the wheels can move downwards from the stationary ride height. E.g. when you pick up the car off the ground, the amount the wheels drop down when you pick it up - that's how much droop you've got. Compression is the amount the suspension can compress (wheel cannot go any higher) from the stationary ride height. The softer the springs are, the more droop and less compression you'll have. A stiffer spring (or using the clip-on spacers/collars which pre-load the spring) results in less droop and more compression. If you have too much droop the wheels will drop down into deep ruts/holes and when you reach the other side of the hole, the bump may throw the car causing it to unsettle or flip. If you have not enough droop the car will skip over rough ground as it prevents the wheels dropping down into ruts/holes, which makes it easier to drive but results in low traction which is slow around a track. A general rule of thumb is to have about 30/70 droop/compression ratio. I.e. when you put the car on the ground the suspension compresses 30%, leaving another 70% of suspension travel to soak up bumps. Because the TT02B has so much suspension travel that can't be realised, because the chassis just hits the ground, I would aim for closer to 20/80. Most tamiya kits have you setup the car with almost no droop at all (springs too stiff and/or inappropriate mounting holes used).
Moving the mounting point of the shock (at either end) changes both the effective stiffness (at the wheels) of both shock and spring as well as the ride height, by changing the amount of leverage there is on the shock/spring assembly. If you're confused about the effect of moving to a different hole just ask this "when the wheel moves up and down by the same amount as before, how much does the length of the spring/shock assembly change?". If the answer is "more change in length than before", it's a stiffer setting. If the change in length is exactly the same, the stiffness is unchanged but the ride height may not be.
If you change holes and then install a bunch of clip-on spring spacers/collars to readjust the ride height, you've stiffened the springs but not adjusted the shocks to suit, so you might want to go to a thicker oil too otherwise things might become bouncy. A stiffer spring requires a stiffer shock to keep it under control it.-
3
-
-
Will probably run fine without a heatsink or fan. I wouldn't attach D7 or D8, just leave the motor exposed. After running for a few minutes check the temperature of the motor can with your finger. If you can't keep your finger on it for longer than 5-10 seconds it's pretty warm but you aren't going to damage anything. If you can't keep your finger on it for even 1 second it's too hot.
I wouldn't use a clip on heatsink of any type with a motor that has electrical contacts protruding outside the diameter of the can. All it requires is for the heatsink to walk itself over to the contacts and *poof* goodbye ESC.
A fan without a heatsink will work far better than a heatsink without a fan anyway. Just get a $5 generic 30mm rc fan that plugs into your receiver and use it with the D8 part. I fashioned up a mount for a yeah racing 40mm fan using a piece of acrylic and some brass standoffs and that works ridiculously well. For a >20T brushed motor it would probably ran at ambient temperature haha.
-
1
-
1
-
-
Ran this
Wore out this
Tore that car down to build something new (drift car)
And stole the electronics to finish this
Ran that, which promptly wore out this
Also glued a new set of TC wheels/tyres
-
4
-
). It's a slow servo, but faster is not always better for gyro assisted drifting. The slower the servo is, the more you can turn up the gain of your gyro (= more steering lock from gyro) without instability occurring.
TT-02 Steering Upgrade Parts Set 54752
in General discussions
Posted
Yes, just needs longer turnbuckles.
You can also just reuse the standard plastic tierods with the aluminium steering upgrade since the TT02B already uses 4.8/5.0mm balls for the tierods. That's what i'm doing and I don't see any point in upgrading yet since I have no desire to adjust the toe from 0 degrees.
Like so (my aluminium steering parts are not tamiya brand but are functionally identical)