Scipunk
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Posts posted by Scipunk
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Update 2:
The front of the chassis is warped or something, as i have tried everything to get it to run smooth and now it does once i shimmed it where the 2 halves meet. i have to seal it, the bumper covers the front ones but its smooth as silk now. not sure what happened.
Also yes i realzied shortly after my right shock was upside down...lol
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UPDATE:
I tore down the front end, removed some excess grease, put it back together before screwing it in all was well, as soon as i screwed the screws to snug it was back but not as bad. Loosened the trans bottom screw and it got better, loosened all 3 and its fine... i am at a loss, i clearly can't run it loose if i snug the top 2 (on the front trans) and leave the bottom one about 3 turns loose its way smoother but it still has a weird chatter. maybe i just need to clean the diff and start over? i did nothing different from the rear and its fine so i am lost...lol
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Finally got all 4 shocks on the Lunchbox, and now im mid teardown of the MF-01x already due to some weirdness in the front trans/diff
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31 minutes ago, TurnipJF said:
The front diff certainly appears stiffer than the rear. Unless this has been done on purpose, say by stuffing the front one full of thick grease and leaving the rear one lightly lubed for example, it would indicate a fault.
Alright ill tear it down tonight and get pics in case i miss something you might not
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Here ya go, sorry for the quality, it should get better after a few hours but you will see what im talking about
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2 hours ago, TurnipJF said:
Assuming that you didn't do anything different regarding diff grease or putty, the front and rear diffs should feel the same. I it sounds like the front internal diff gears might not be meshing properly. Best open it up and make sure the little cone shaped gears are meshing properly with the bigger, flatter gears on both sides. Chances are they are slightly out of sync.
Only thing i did was use the cow RC udder butter waterproof grease. Maybe i put too much in the diff. like the front diff doesn't do the one wheel spin one way and the other the other, it spins both at the same time and sometimes slips a little gonna do what ya said and open her up. I'll post a video in a few to show ya
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Thanks for that Honza. Now one last question, i haven't run it yet but i tried just rolling it forward and back on the desk and it feels like it got a lot of resistance. not binding but its very strong, is this normal? My Granite BLX (arrma) is also shaft driven 4wd but brushless and is no where that hard to move. I hope i didn't put too much grease (cow RC udder butter) this is my first real kit so im not sure.
EDIT I am now wondering if i did something wrong in the front diff, on the rear i can spin one wheel and the other spins the other way, in the front i can't unless i block the back wheels and then it's very difficult. Is it supposed to not be like the rear? I may have to pull it apart to make sure
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Following along as i just built this and my yeah racing kit will be here by Feb...lol
If i run the provided wheels or a slightly taller wheel like a TC wheel do you think i will run into the same issues on the rear with the knuckle? Also do you think the TL01 gear set would benefit a off road setup using a 13.5t motor?
I will do a build (re-build?) thread once all my parts are in.
Thanks!
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So i just ordered the Yeah racing suspension kit, and Tamiya aluminum servo mount (scored both for $45 bucks as i had Amazon credit points...lol). It should arrive by February so I will post a build thread then with the upgrades
My TRF shocks should be in Wed and my aluminum driveshaft should be here today.
I was wondering how big/tall of a wheel/tire can i go on this without messing up the suspension, to be honest I am not a huge fan of the stock rims it comes with. Something either more close to VW wheels or really any ones that give me a bit more ground clearance would be nice.
Thanks!
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6 hours ago, dc-arena said:
I wondered the same, and just left them as the instructions stated.
2 hours ago, TurnipJF said:That is correct. The front outer dogbones ends need to operate at greater angles than the inner ones because of the movement of the steering, so the o-rings are omitted, otherwise they would cause the dogbones to bind when full steering is applied at the same time as full suspension extension or compression.
Thanks guys, makes total sense. This has been a fun build so far other than taking apart the frame extension like 5 times cause they didn't fit right only to be because I made them backwards...lol also had to pull the driveshaft out again to re-add shims and had to pull the front trans apart because the right front axle would not go in just needed to adjust the gear (i think i added a touch too much grease) and for the life of me i can barely see the the pinion mesh...lol all is good now except i don't have a tamiya plug battery...lol gonna get the esc plug changed over today and have the guys at the LHS show me how to make sure the mesh is solid before i run it
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7 hours ago, Nobbi1977 said:

Someone ate ate all the Vanilla
I give ya credit for have a good sense of humor man, he if they likes it then that's all that matters.
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OK so i noticed on the instructions the front out-drives only have o-rings on the inner cup and not the outer one where the dog bone sits? Is this a misprint or does it really not use them like everywhere else. I have 4 spare o-rings so i can add them if need be.
Thanks!
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2 hours ago, speedy_w_beans said:
My eyes! What has been seen cannot be unseen!
As a painter and artist, this color combo is very hard to digest, but to each their own and the paint work came out well.
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28 minutes ago, Fabia130vRS said:
what about you take the small black spring out, and only leave the white shock andadjustthe height and it shouldnt be stiff that much
That's a pre-load spring so I should be able to do that, i'll fidgit with it tomorrow
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Started fitting new shocks i got at my LHS, also relocated the battery inside and my lipo alarm. Got foam under the battery, just figuring out actual mounting. Shocks are Pro-lines the, fronts are great the rears need to be moved back some as they are a little stiff. I haven't added oil as i needed to get screws.
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1 hour ago, TurnipJF said:
That is a wise move. Both cars have their place, the MF as a fun little thing, more advanced and complex than a CW, but nowhere near as serious or intense as the XV which is will suited to rally competition use.
Good cause my LHS owner is able to get the kit for me
also he ordered my TRF shocks for the MF and might be able to get my yeah racing set faster than from overseas, so fingers crossed!
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16 minutes ago, Juls1 said:
The xv01 is a whole another ball game. If I had to choose between my xv01 and mf01x the mf01x would be on eBay in a few seconds. If your honestly looking for a true rally experience the xv01 is what you should be looking at. Don’t get me wrong the mf01x in beetle guise is very attractive but it’s not much use off road. Wheels are just too small. The rear motor design while being realistic to the VW isn’t that much fun to drive, it’s difficukt to drift well and doesnt feel responsive (which is probably realistic) the xv01 however is easily the best handling RC rally car on the market, the car pivots on its nose and can be drifted like no other TC chassis.
Yes the xv01 comes with oil shocks, bearings, oil filled diffs, fully adjustable suspension (with a ton more settings too).
It is however more complicated, and a more challenging build, there is a lot of fiddly bits that are to do with the various additional suspension adjustments. It is a upper level kit, with higher level of handling and adjustability.
I think you need both honestly...
I felt this coming at the start of your post...lol I think you are right, but i am gonna start with the MF to get my feet wet, it has been a long time and even though i built a lunchbox like 4 days ago it's no where as complicated as the MF or as you have shown the XV. So i'll use the MF as a learning car and graduate to the XV once i feel more confident
thanks for your input Juls1!
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2 hours ago, TurnipJF said:
The MMM is very similar to the V3, so if you can't find one at a reasonable price, you are unlikely to notice much difference between that and a V3.
Awesome, let me ask you one last question (sorry i know some stuff but i need to learn a lot more.} Is the XV-01 more capable than the MF-01x? I only ask because i see posts where people compare them and like the TA07 (which is way out of budget) and i just want to make sure i am not making the wrong choice. I love the Beetle but i also love Lancia so it's a toss up body wise. And while i have the bearings already for the MF, its a 20 dollar loss if i get a XV but the XV is like 100 more for just the kit, does it have oil shocks and bearings already?
Maybe i am getting ahead of my self, i am sure i am gonna have fun building either way.
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1 hour ago, TurnipJF said:
"0.6 module" is the pitch of the pinion gears used by the MF-01X. It refers to the size and shape of the teeth required to mesh properly with the spur gear.
The chassis can take pinions from 16 to 20 teeth. The Amazon set would therefore not be ideal, as the smaller pinions wouldn't fit, and the set doesn't contain the larger pinions that would fit. Personally I would pick the gear ratios I wanted from page 20 of the manual and order my pinions individually. Robinson Racing and RW Racing are good brands to get.
While I was at it, I would order a Speed Passion MMM 13.5t motor. The motor cables plug into the rear, making it easier to fit than the Trackstar. It also performs a bit better for similar money.
Awesome, thanks for your input
I can't find that exact one here in the states unless this is it? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Speed-Passion-Competition-V3-Sensored-Brushless-Motor-13-5r-SPA138135V3/132600279078?epid=1701787080&hash=item1edf97b026:g:VeUAAOSwFWda4zXF
The one MMM one i found was 120 bucks...lol
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How is this one https://www.amazon.com/TrackStar-Turnigy-Sensored-Brushless-approved/dp/B00V2VYM2I
what do mean by module? I find sets of them but im not sure which tooth count to get would this work?
https://www.amazon.com/Dreamyth-3-175mm-Off-road-Monster-Brushless/dp/B074QL3983
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1 hour ago, TurnipJF said:
Steel pinion in 0.6 module.
13.5t motor.
Hardcase 2S LiPo of your choice - the chassis takes both rectangular and rounded ones, but offers little protection so hardcase is a must IMO.
Awesome thanks Turnip, already have a 2s lipo hardcase, ill get a steel pinion and a 13.5t motor


Mf-01x - suzuki jimny, mercedes g-wagen & others
in General discussions
Posted
I've triple checked everything, i can't figure out the actual cause, but i will. For now it works, i will contact Tamiya about getting a replacement parts tree for these pieces and go from there.