Scipunk
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Posts posted by Scipunk
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Small care package from @speedy_w_beans with 2 flange tubes, some 1.9 wheels for my beetle and a "small contribution" of decals...lol Thanks man!
2019-01-19_06-59-40 by David Ashe, on Flickr
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So while i wait for a couple things from @speedy_w_beans i decided to do a mock up of how i am gonna paint this.
It will be Gold and black using Tamiya paints, the wheels will be different but you get the idea. I might try it with the black being blue, to match the suspension but im trying to keep the rally theme. I may do my own version of the decals using vinyl from my shop. I might incorporate the blue there or possible red as a offset color.
I also want to de-chrome the bumpers/lights and black them out. More of a euro look as it were. I am gonna also source some better bumper lights as the kit ones are just too clunky to me. I assume easy off oven cleaner is the best way to de-chrome as it is with models?
EDIT turns out there a lot of methods...lol bleach white. ammonia, brake fluid, caustic soda... well shouldn't be too hard to figure out something...lol
Thoughts?
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If you manage to make these i would love a set in 1.9 for my beetle project
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14 minutes ago, S-PCS said:
Went to the local hobby store for some small stuff. To my surprise they had a single TT-01 Zakspeed Mercedes on the shelf, and since I had no plans for the weekend, decided to take it home.
Ended up talking to the owner about Tamiya and the state of RC in general, learned that there's a secret abandoned onroad RC track just about a mile up the road from where I live, and got a huge discount on the kit without even asking.
Came back to the office to find an employee in serious need of a morale booster, gave him the Zakspeed kit as a present.
Then went on the internet and bought another one because I already had started to make plans for it.
Will spend the time not spent on building the kit this weekend on looking a) forward to Monday's "postman brought me", and b) into the abandoned track, which is really still there, and huge, and build Zakspeed #2 next weekend.
Not bad for a Friday, if you ask me.
The hobby needs more people like you man, that was very kind of you. Also awesome track! Get some pics when you visit it!
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3 hours ago, Fabia130vRS said:
Hmmm, not really. Well I pealed of the stickers yesterday, and there was some glue left on the body, I used aceton and a wet towel to clean the resto sticker glue but there are some darknspots left. I could use some water sand paper 2000 and remove the dirt stains of the lexan. Otherwise this came out superb for a daily runner shell.
and while we are at it... for how much do the yokomo yz-2 go?
I am tempted to buy a Zahhak or TRF201 but I like to consider also other things. How do you like the yokomo?
If you mean price, the one i have in kit form can be had for i think $349.00 I paid $358 after tax for a used chassis, new Trinity 17.5t sensored motor, hobbywing ESC and a new 4500 battery. I just used my spektrum reciever from my granite. So far i loove the car its fast, light and handles really well and can be run on all sorts of surfaces
If you do get one the newer one the YZ-2 CA L2 is much nicer, has gull wing style arms and other improvements. it's around $419 for the kit
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2 minutes ago, Fabia130vRS said:
installed the DTM body on my TA05... I like it. even more as I could refurbish the rear spoiler and mirror I had laying around for years.
Needed to move spacers and adjust rear camber so the wheels would fit properly under the body.
Looks amazing! Any plans to refurbish the paint? Can it even be done?
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On 1/11/2019 at 5:03 AM, Kamikuza said:
You can buy cyanoacrylate at the $1 store. But actual brand name Plastiweld is some jackass importing it and sticking a ridiculous price on it.
I have a little FB page called "Go home Amazon you're drunk" where, for my own amusement, I upload screen grabs and links of the most stupidly priced things I stumble across. $250 for glue is not even trying
LOL sounds like a great page, i would love to see whats actually trying
Isn't CA glue fun? I love having sealed fingertips for hours after i build something...lol
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On 1/14/2019 at 5:04 AM, KEV THE REV said:
The upper link rod on mine is approx 80mm centre to centre of the rod end holes , the threaded rod length will depend on the length of your rod ends .
Here is a link to the bracket :-
Kev, thanks for the info. I ordered the bracket. Sorry for the late response i didn't get a notification for it...lol
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Went to my LHS to pick up some paint, my best friend showed up, found out his nitro truck was kaput. Was on the fence about buying a used team associated B6 for 200 when we pulled the body it was fully loaded with nearly every hopup ...lol so he grabbed it and i bought this so we could race together.
20190117_164927 by David Ashe, on Flickr
I know it's not Tamiya but my XV-01 is on order
It's a Yokomo YZ-2 CA and i got it for a steal
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The Nissan Silvia will work, it's a 1/12 body but it came on the M06 just gotta find one that's not a full kit
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57 minutes ago, graemevw said:
Yellow generally covers worse in most paints so no real surprise. It looked nice in the end, but i wont use them again, ill stick to what i know.
I imagine if your good with them though they would give good results, they lay down quite nice and dry quick.
Yeah yellow can be a major pain to work with, i find blue/ silver/ black/ some reds and greens usually are good oh and orange and gold but yellow is tricky. Enviroment has a lot to do with it. Eventually as much as i love Tamiya i want to get a airbrush so i can use the auto grade paints and alcad II
and the like.
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Got the front fitted and replaced the rear upper suspension balls studs with the threaded rod and screw on ball caps so there is more material in the plastic with the spacer
20190117_091541 by David Ashe, on Flickr
20190117_091625 by David Ashe, on Flickr
20190117_091640 by David Ashe, on Flickr
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2 hours ago, graemevw said:
Someone needs to get them modeled then! 😎
Wonder if we could get shodog to get measurements out to someone like AMPRO or the like to see if they can make something happen.
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28 minutes ago, graemevw said:
Yes, and ts16 at least is very thin. I assume they all are? Took 6 coats to even think about covering the light grey tamiya primer and really could have done with one or two more.
I found the ts paints a bit of a nightmare to be honest, but maybe thats because im so used to cellulose.
Depends on the color/pigments used. I think because it's a lacquer paint it's designed to be put on in many layers. I remember using one of the really nice greens with a pearl on a skyline i did and it covered fantastic. So i think it may be the color that denotes it?
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Sorted my camber issue by using the right sized spacers...lol and using the larger ones for spacing my shocks
20190117_032941 by David Ashe, on Flickr
20190117_033829 by David Ashe, on Flickr
20190117_033841 by David Ashe, on Flickr
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I tend to use old PSU's from PC's as a 12v supply, relatively cheap can be made to run without a PC and are larger with better cooling
also i have a ton of PC fans laying around...lol
Gonna grab these sheets tomorrow and build myself one, thanks for the info!
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I think i found the wheels i want,
HPI Fifteen52 Turbomac 26mm Wheels in Black
Diameter: 1.9" (48.2mm)
Width: 1.02" (26mm)
Hex Size: 12mm
Offset: 1/4" (6mm)
Uses 26mm tires, hopefully they should fit AND clear the rear turnbuckles
UPDATE: I was using the 2mm spacers, then i found the M05 bag with the correct 1mm spacer so now the wheels spin freely! Still gonna get new wheels but yay for reading!
20190117_032941 by David Ashe, on Flickr
20190117_033829 by David Ashe, on Flickr
used the 2mm spacers for the top of my rear shocks so they sit more vertical
20190117_033841 by David Ashe, on Flickr
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53 minutes ago, speedy_w_beans said:
@Scipunk, I found the flange tubes I was thinking of tonight. These are extras for the Yeah Racing suspension arms that come in their TT01 conversion set. I have the following measurements:
- Main tube OD = 4 mm (like yours)
- Main tube ID = 3 mm (I think yours is too; it has to be to fit the hinge pin)
- Flange OD = 6 mm
- Flange thickness = 0.95 mm
- Overall length = 6.55 mm (vs. your 4.55 mm)
If you want one or two of these, PM me your address and I'll drop a padded envelope in the mail. You might be able to trim 2 mm off the overall length and make them work.
In terms of your rear suspension, did you use adjusters that are too long? When I look at the YR instruction sheet and then the last photo, it seems like the plastic adjusters are quite long. Are there shorter adjusters on the parts tree? This might help you correct the camber. They call for 29 mm length from center of adjuster to center of adjuster, but I would think that distance would have to be even shorter if you threaded a ball connector one hole inwards on the rear upright. You might be able to ditch the 2 mm spacer on the rear upright, but I would do it only if the turnbuckle remained at least parallel to the lower suspension arm. If the turnbuckle is slanting downwards towards the upright, then the camber tends to go positive then negative as the suspension compresses. If the turnbuckle is slanting downwards towards the chassis, or is at least parallel to the lower suspension arm, then camber tends to go increasingly negative as the suspension compresses. You generally don't want any positive camber as the suspension compresses.
Awesome ill shoot ya a pm in a few!
Onto the second part. Those are the ones i was told to use as they have the hole in them for the hex to fit through. I measured and they are indeed 29 mm hole to hole, which as you said seems big if i had to put them into the middle hole which isn't where they ball end should be it should be at the outer most and i think this is the issue. The beetle uses 60D wheels which are what 1.5? This kit was made for the Jimny which uses 1.9. Does the TT01 use 1.9 wheels? Also funny part is if i just put the wheels on snug it's fine but the second i tighten them down full the diff nearly stops working. Did i use the wrong axles? i checked the numbers and the ones i used said they were for the rear but now i gotta go back and check...lol
I tried ditching the spacer but the thread from the ball stud hit the DCJ so i figured that was bad...lol
I'll go check and PM ya my address
PM sent.
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7 minutes ago, Juls1 said:
You should be able to make that work, those rear hubs are the same in the wide arm M05/M06 kit, which is designed for mini wheels only. My M06 kit works well.
Juls1 do you mean the wheels or the ball end thing...lol? Would shaving the top of the ball end be a bad idea? I really don't want to weaken it but atm with the nuts tightened i can barely spin the wheels.
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35 minutes ago, Juls1 said:
Can you move the ball one hole towards the car and shorten the upper arm? It’ll mess with the camber gain but at least it’ll work. I’d say they thought most people would be using 1.9” wheels like on the Jimny.
I could do that i think i was supposed to chop 2mm off the ends but i may be losing it also...lol
27 minutes ago, TurnipJF said:Are the Turbofans you are considering using 1.9" in size? If so, they should fit fine. The Yeah Racing setup is designed for use with standard touring car wheels, not the Mini size wheels offered with the beetle kit.
As for tyres, I have found Tamiya's rally blocks to work very well. There are other tyres that look more realistic but don't grip particularly well such a as treaded radials, as well as tyres that grip quite well but don't look at all realistic, such as minipins. However I think that the rally blocks offer a good compromise, looking reasonably realistic well also gripping nicely.
Sadly the Turbofans are 2.2 so i am not sure if they would fit and does Tamiya make the rally blocks in a 2.2?
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Got some more work done on the YR long arm kit, and found the rear ball ends hit the rim due to them being so wee tiny...lol So i am gonna mess around with spacers and placement
2019-01-16_05-22-14 by David Ashe, on Flickr
way too much negative camber...lol
2019-01-16_09-03-28 by David Ashe, on Flickr
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2 hours ago, speedy_w_beans said:
I have several YR flange tubes left over from M05 and TT01 builds. Let me see if I have one that matches your measurements. If I do, I can drop it in the post for you.
That would be amazing, thank you sir! Also lemme ask, do you think i should remove the suggested spacer due to my ball end hitting the inside of the wheel? I moved them one inward from the recommended and now i have super camber:
2019-01-16_09-03-28 by David Ashe, on Flickr
will removing the spacer hurt it at all?
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So i got the rear done but the ball ends hit the inner lip of the rim, so i need taller wheels otherwise i have too much camber, i can either, get taller wheels, shave the ball end or remove the spacer they suggested using, ill try the spacer first:
2019-01-16_09-03-28 by David Ashe, on Flickr
Scipunk's builds, mods and upgrades
in The Builds
Posted
@speedy_w_beans came through with a care package for the beetle and other stuff
2 flange tubes to replace the broken one
1.9 TC wheels
and a "small" contribution to my decal collection...lol
I'll fit the wheels tomorrow and check clearance