^Smith^

Good Day Guys I'm a little late to the party....Always looking for multi-color paint tips @Carmine Can you please elaborate on your technique with the blue being the base color then masking for the second etc... Thank you

Thanks All, as usual! Tamiya Tape has performed well for me. Yes, alvinlwh, I have found that the window masks are not sized exactly correct. I fact, now that I think about it they may be too large. By this I mean that the mask in my opinion should be masking the "window glass". I have found that they often drape over part of the window "frame" which has some "relief" and is NOT perfectly flat. I think that's also part of the problem. So, Thanks again for your comments.

Good Day All I was wondering if anyone has had problems with Tamiya Window Masks. I press down (using a pencil eraser and / or popsicle stick) ALL of my masking tape when painting a multi-color polycarbonate body. It's rare if I get any paint seeping thru the tape. When using a Tamiya Window mask, I use the same method. My results for a nice clean, crisp line are poor. Am I doing anything wrong? Has anyone else had a similar experience? Does anyone just mask the windows using Tamiya tape or other brands. Thanks much!

Thanks to all for your replies and insight!

Good Day All Recently I saw a Youtube vid. where the RC model painter recommended spraying a coat of "Clear" over the masking tape claiming that this step is necessary to prevent the possibility of "Paint bleed". Do any members use this method? Or even think it's a good idea? Thanks for looking

Hello All Always looking to Up my body painting game. At the most maybe three colors...PC Bodies. Been watching a lot of videos about Liquid Mask (Specifically the Bittydesign Brand, I think is an Italian Company). It looks like very complex body designs can be achieved! Are there any members that have used these liquid masks? Is the product user friendly? The thought of cutting the liquid mask with your hobby knife ****htens me, weakening the lexan. I would guess that if i use liquid mask I would spray with an inexpensive airbrush, Not my Iwata? Any thoughts will be much appreciated.

Hey There JR Thanks for your comment. Honestly, I've only soldered once and I was happy it worked out. would u mind outlining your process...Which Solders etc. I'm very "green" here...Thanks

So, If I wanted/needed to I could buy the Molex Connectors and cut off the connector and solder on (and shrink wrap) a Molex. I wonder, Would you loose any signal/power with a splice on the ESC Cable? thanks again for everyone taking the time to reply!

Ahhh, Twin This looks like the answer. I guess it's manufactured by Hobby Wing and marketed by Tamiya? Thanks much

Thanks everyone. I think that you have reinforced the use of the basics in electronics. As I look to purchase the Hobbywing ESC's it looks as though Hobbywing has discontinued the 1060 Brushed ESC w/ TAMIYA/Molex Batt. connector and manufactures the ESC with a T-Connector? Pic below from Amain Hobbies. Question: Is there an adaptor from this connector to a Tamiya / Molex?

Good Day All I need to get motors and ESCs and receivers for two Tamiya cars.... And of course I have several other unbuilt Tamiya models waiting to be opened. Working on a Konghead now and a BBX to follow. I'm not a racer nor do I compete at all. Just backyard and driveway stuff. Mostly I enjoy the builds and the paint. Brushed motors are fine, really don't need to "break any Land Speed Records" As far as ESC's are concerned, I've been using Hobbywing products...Quicrun 1060's. Regarding receivers, I've been using Spektrum SR 215 DMRR (2-channel)......I'm out of stock on all three electronic components. I'm still using a Spectrum DX2E Transmitter...which is also fine. I'll need to upgrade at a certain point. So, your thoughts about choices for these electronics. I just like play around, Like the "little kid" that I enjoy being! Thanks guys. I'm using this style battery / ESC connectors...I think that they are called Tamiya Connectors?

Good Day All and Happy New Year Please, I need some direction here. Direction #48 in the Direction manual shows that the battery to be installed between the Carbon Fiber Upper and Lower Decks with the connection (Batt to ESC) to the Front of the model (Right Side). Then, it shows the battery Cable being "folded up" neatly and you will be able to plug in the ESC. The pic in Direction #48 shows the ESC Plug ALREADY there in that small void.(Seemingly, passing from the Left side tom the right side of the model. This seems impossible, as the ESC cable just isn't long enough and would also need to be in contact with the propeller shaft. The connection could be made on top of the Upper Deck but you would have to remove the body for each battery change. If you remove the body you would have to remove the "threaded shaft" (Instruction #45)from the top of the Front and Rear Shock Towers or don't install them. There must be a way to "cleanly" make this connection. Perhaps splice some slack into the ESC Cables, but that seems drastic. OR I'm totally "missing the boat" here! Your thoughts and experience are much appreciated. I hope this was somewhat clear....I really didn't want to be so long winded

Hey Twin...Yeah that's what I have been doing...hand drill + reamer. I can closely control the hole's diameter with the reamer...Thanks

Morning / Afternoon All Pin vises... I have seen them listed in the "tools required" many times in the Tamiya Build Instructions. I really never paid much attention. Perhaps using a Pin Vise and a reamer is the most effective way to make the body holes? Anything to make the build process easier and produce a better result. Does anyone use a Pin Vise? Any recommendations for purchasing one? Maybe a Pin Vise Kit, with multiple drill bits? Thanks as always.

Thanks All...It's on the way!