^Smith^

Thanks All, as usual! Tamiya Tape has performed well for me. Yes, alvinlwh, I have found that the window masks are not sized exactly correct. I fact, now that I think about it they may be too large. By this I mean that the mask in my opinion should be masking the "window glass". I have found that they often drape over part of the window "frame" which has some "relief" and is NOT perfectly flat. I think that's also part of the problem. So, Thanks again for your comments.

Good Day All I was wondering if anyone has had problems with Tamiya Window Masks. I press down (using a pencil eraser and / or popsicle stick) ALL of my masking tape when painting a multi-color polycarbonate body. It's rare if I get any paint seeping thru the tape. When using a Tamiya Window mask, I use the same method. My results for a nice clean, crisp line are poor. Am I doing anything wrong? Has anyone else had a similar experience? Does anyone just mask the windows using Tamiya tape or other brands. Thanks much!

Thanks to all for your replies and insight!

Good Day All Recently I saw a Youtube vid. where the RC model painter recommended spraying a coat of "Clear" over the masking tape claiming that this step is necessary to prevent the possibility of "Paint bleed". Do any members use this method? Or even think it's a good idea? Thanks for looking

Hello All Always looking to Up my body painting game. At the most maybe three colors...PC Bodies. Been watching a lot of videos about Liquid Mask (Specifically the Bittydesign Brand, I think is an Italian Company). It looks like very complex body designs can be achieved! Are there any members that have used these liquid masks? Is the product user friendly? The thought of cutting the liquid mask with your hobby knife ****htens me, weakening the lexan. I would guess that if i use liquid mask I would spray with an inexpensive airbrush, Not my Iwata? Any thoughts will be much appreciated.

Hey There JR Thanks for your comment. Honestly, I've only soldered once and I was happy it worked out. would u mind outlining your process...Which Solders etc. I'm very "green" here...Thanks

So, If I wanted/needed to I could buy the Molex Connectors and cut off the connector and solder on (and shrink wrap) a Molex. I wonder, Would you loose any signal/power with a splice on the ESC Cable? thanks again for everyone taking the time to reply!

Ahhh, Twin This looks like the answer. I guess it's manufactured by Hobby Wing and marketed by Tamiya? Thanks much

Thanks everyone. I think that you have reinforced the use of the basics in electronics. As I look to purchase the Hobbywing ESC's it looks as though Hobbywing has discontinued the 1060 Brushed ESC w/ TAMIYA/Molex Batt. connector and manufactures the ESC with a T-Connector? Pic below from Amain Hobbies. Question: Is there an adaptor from this connector to a Tamiya / Molex?

Good Day All I need to get motors and ESCs and receivers for two Tamiya cars.... And of course I have several other unbuilt Tamiya models waiting to be opened. Working on a Konghead now and a BBX to follow. I'm not a racer nor do I compete at all. Just backyard and driveway stuff. Mostly I enjoy the builds and the paint. Brushed motors are fine, really don't need to "break any Land Speed Records" As far as ESC's are concerned, I've been using Hobbywing products...Quicrun 1060's. Regarding receivers, I've been using Spektrum SR 215 DMRR (2-channel)......I'm out of stock on all three electronic components. I'm still using a Spectrum DX2E Transmitter...which is also fine. I'll need to upgrade at a certain point. So, your thoughts about choices for these electronics. I just like play around, Like the "little kid" that I enjoy being! Thanks guys. I'm using this style battery / ESC connectors...I think that they are called Tamiya Connectors?

Good Day All and Happy New Year Please, I need some direction here. Direction #48 in the Direction manual shows that the battery to be installed between the Carbon Fiber Upper and Lower Decks with the connection (Batt to ESC) to the Front of the model (Right Side). Then, it shows the battery Cable being "folded up" neatly and you will be able to plug in the ESC. The pic in Direction #48 shows the ESC Plug ALREADY there in that small void.(Seemingly, passing from the Left side tom the right side of the model. This seems impossible, as the ESC cable just isn't long enough and would also need to be in contact with the propeller shaft. The connection could be made on top of the Upper Deck but you would have to remove the body for each battery change. If you remove the body you would have to remove the "threaded shaft" (Instruction #45)from the top of the Front and Rear Shock Towers or don't install them. There must be a way to "cleanly" make this connection. Perhaps splice some slack into the ESC Cables, but that seems drastic. OR I'm totally "missing the boat" here! Your thoughts and experience are much appreciated. I hope this was somewhat clear....I really didn't want to be so long winded

Hey Twin...Yeah that's what I have been doing...hand drill + reamer. I can closely control the hole's diameter with the reamer...Thanks

Morning / Afternoon All Pin vises... I have seen them listed in the "tools required" many times in the Tamiya Build Instructions. I really never paid much attention. Perhaps using a Pin Vise and a reamer is the most effective way to make the body holes? Anything to make the build process easier and produce a better result. Does anyone use a Pin Vise? Any recommendations for purchasing one? Maybe a Pin Vise Kit, with multiple drill bits? Thanks as always.

Thanks All...It's on the way!

Thanks for your replies. Who is you vendor?? £7.86 is only $10.00 US... a much better price than I can get on Amazon.

Good Day All Just ordered the New Tamiya BBX Buggy. Excited. From what I have read the build requires a "low profile' steering servo. I actually seem to remember installing a low profile servo in my Astute but not sure. Can anyone recommend a servo for the BBX that will work, BUT not break the bank? thanks much!!

Yup, Thanks everyone. Looks like the Tamiya Paper Tape is best. The vinyl tape just isn't the best way to go Thanks again

Hey All I'm sure that this topic must have been discussed dozens of times, if so please pardon me. I have seen so many outstanding paint jobs on TC. I have tried many different brands of tape. The Tamiya Tapes have gotten some great reviews, but I have had no luck with these "white" Vinyl type tapes. They just don't seem to stick well or come loose (I don't think that I could be doing something wrong??) When I tape (between colors for example) I try to press the tape well (I use the eraser on the end of a pencil, sometimes) to try to make the tape stick well) Any brand recommendations or techniques will be much appreciated.

Hey Turnip, Thanks for your remarks and recommendation for a 1060. Surprisingly, I happen to have Hobby Wing, Quicrun 1060 in my stock. It's certainly smaller and has only 2 wires. Putting away all of the electronic wires and making sure it's free from the prop. shaft... etc. is the most frustrating part of the build for me

My sincere apologies NIKKO! I have learned something here. Yes, I see that the brushLESS motors all have 3 wires. So, I suppose that the ESC that I have installed will work with Brushed or Brushless motors. ..And as read a little further it appears that brushless motor will provide more speed.

I think that the Motor that came with the kit is brushless? The orange wire on the ESC seems to be the useless wire.

Thanks for weighing in on the topic £125...about $150-160 or so. I certainly would consider more for better features or performance

Morning I don't want to wear out my welcome here...I do have another Elect. Question (probably a stupid one) 90% complete with the Avante 2011 build. So, now is the time to "neaten up " the Electronics" I'm using the ECS (TBLE-02s) that was provided in the kit, as well as the Motor (Avante 2011 Special GT Tuned) ESC wiring to the Motor: Yellow > Yellow, Blue > Green ....Question: The remaining "orange wire" (ESC), seems to serve no purpose? So, can I cut it close to the ESC and maybe put a little silicone on the end, and make room to neatly organize the wiring.

Hey G'Afternoon, All I thought that it would be a good idea to treat myself to a new transmitter radio. I've had a Spektrum DX2E DSMR Radio for some time (using the Spektrum SPMSR215 DSMR 2-Channel Receiver), just a "plain vanilla" 2 channel. It really does what I need but I'd like to pick up another 2-channel is probably fine but perhaps a 3-channel to care for other options. I don't think I really need a lot of "bells and whistles" but get an easy to use radio that's durable and does the job. Thoughts and recommendations would be greatly appreciated!

Good Day All I have had some success airbrushing my RC Cars. Always trying new techniques. I came across this Konghead paint job in a Youtube video. Can anyone help me to understand how this has been done? Red flames into blue body and blue flames into red body, all with black shadowing. I think it looks pretty sharp.