tacomancini

I think I read on here that 380’s and lipo can be a pretty potent combo. Also I guess if racing you could go with a light low capacity NiMH as well.

Cool! What type of battery do you use?

Love it! I have a holiday buggy that’s in process. Figured I’d build it first stock with the pogos and the 380 motor just to see how it feels. But I do have a sport tuned 540 and even some df03 shocks that I thought might be overkill. I might hold the shocks for something like a TD2 that will probably never happen. Interested to see what you do.

Hopefully it comes sooner! I see they have a front stabilizer as well. Have had my eye on these.

What was the piece, a rare vintage hop up or something?

I’m doing a front Monoshock thing right now, but if If I was going for dual front independent shocks I’d opt for the Ampro solution that can be bought in shapeways. It seems like it is the most frog-like while supporting modern shocks. I like how low profile it is but it also extends the wheel base a little. However you do lose caster adjustment.

I use it to repair the frog wing mounts which are always breaking. First used “five minute fix”, the as seen on TV version, and then moved to Bondic. When it works it’s fantastic. Have used it to reconstruct whole areas that fell apart as well as for tears in the lexan. It does have some give and can fill gaps almost like a very rough hand held 3D printer. Sometimes it doesn’t adhere and other times it’s perfect. I usually try it first and then if it’s not quite working I use it in conjunction with super glue.

They were going for almost $30 bucks in a few listings. Someone was doing Monster Beetle Black chassis' for $10. I'm hoping that comes around again, but they seem to be MIA at the moment.

Thats very cool and timely. So that would probably be the later Parma right? It's interesting that a coilover spring is used rather than depending upon the internal springs. I wonder what the reasoning was with regards to that. Also the ends are cylindrical and un-tapered in comparison to the ones I am working with. BTW gave you a shout out in the vid above ^^^ I just ruined another ORV chassis. This one splintered in another critical location, the front nose. I am now convinced that in my attempts to be more thorough I've been sabotaging things by using good ole fashioned Loctite Blue. This time multiple cracks in the front revealed a slight blue oozing beneath. So no more loctite anywhere near the ORV frame. It's a bummer because its really difficult to get to the front mounting to check for loosening without disassembling the entire front suspension. I wanted to use thread lock for that reason, as well as on the other screw into metal spots including the rere chassis cross bars that replaced the MSC plate and on the four screws that mount the gearbox. No more. If anyone is selling a dark gray chassis from the new Black Monster Beetle or Blue Brat please let me know.

So here's a video update taking into account the great feedback so far from you guys. I just got a set of the Tamiya super soft oils to test in the monoshock next. I had a little setback though with the brand new chassis I was building on. I'm not sure if I used too much force, got a bad one, or the locktite is to blame. Also I'm looking for any tips or tricks you guys may have for setting up these older types of dampers. So far its still leak free, but has that slight notchy behavior and wants to retract the piston like a spooked turtle.

Ah, so you think it might have been's You-g's predecessor to their independent dampers with the crossover line? I've seen that Dirt Burner's pic on the web, I wonder how that particular damper worked out. It looks like it rely's on internal springs but has a shorter but wider capsule. I'd guess it has a larger diameter piston that could be drilled out for softening. Of note my mono shock has such a small diameter piston that it really couldn't be drilled out or notched to soften its behavior.

That's beautiful stuff. I have much respect for custom fabrication solutions. I have no idea how guys like you come up with stuff out of the blue. It seems like with the push rod/strut? ... you may have less drag or build up of additional friction. How did it wok out for you? I assume you removed the internal springs. It looks like ride height is about at the highest position which would potentially counteract the see-saw rolling. BTW, there's a guy on the Facebook group "Tamiya ORV type chassis" that recently posted pics of his custom monoshock. He mounted the pivots in the middle of some of those custom aluminum cnc'd arms and used a Frog/Brat re-re rear shock. I take a snap, or link it but I'm not sure about the rules on that.

Thank you, I think I have a long way to go. Including learning how to actually drive the thing. I can't find it now but I thought the same Youtube channel Tokai RC Factory had a rear suspension solution that involved using red tamiya racing shocks from the OP-163 pack. I can't find the video now though for some reason. They fit on the rere brat/frog rear shock using the supplied but unused suspension parts. That's what I'm gonna do as I rebuild the rear end next.

That's a good hint! Gotta be one of the classics right you-g, parma, trinity, cup, dirt burners etc. But maybe a first stab at a solution by them? I'm hoping the independent springs will help in some part to resist the sway. I also read on the forums here that keeping it as close to a fully extended damper helps reduce the see-saw, so gotta aim for a higher ride height. Perhaps with lighter oil. Agreed on the PITA for the removal of the damper every time the body comes on/off. Maybe there's a quick release solution, like a shaft and a little pin? The flip side might be that I only have one damper to maintain since these older solutions need TLC. By the way, love your threads on this forum! I've followed all the stuff you did to your frog and your comprehensive list of hop-ups. CRP arms too I see at least one point.

Thanks! I like Bright eyes. I'm in Pittsburgh, door to Middle America maybe? Looking to soften up the dampening with lighter oil or perhaps little to no oil.