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tacomancini

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  1. They were going for almost $30 bucks in a few listings. Someone was doing Monster Beetle Black chassis' for $10. I'm hoping that comes around again, but they seem to be MIA at the moment.
  2. Thats very cool and timely. So that would probably be the later Parma right? It's interesting that a coilover spring is used rather than depending upon the internal springs. I wonder what the reasoning was with regards to that. Also the ends are cylindrical and un-tapered in comparison to the ones I am working with. BTW gave you a shout out in the vid above ^^^ I just ruined another ORV chassis. This one splintered in another critical location, the front nose. I am now convinced that in my attempts to be more thorough I've been sabotaging things by using good ole fashioned Loctite Blue. This time multiple cracks in the front revealed a slight blue oozing beneath. So no more loctite anywhere near the ORV frame. It's a bummer because its really difficult to get to the front mounting to check for loosening without disassembling the entire front suspension. I wanted to use thread lock for that reason, as well as on the other screw into metal spots including the rere chassis cross bars that replaced the MSC plate and on the four screws that mount the gearbox. No more. If anyone is selling a dark gray chassis from the new Black Monster Beetle or Blue Brat please let me know.
  3. So here's a video update taking into account the great feedback so far from you guys. I just got a set of the Tamiya super soft oils to test in the monoshock next. I had a little setback though with the brand new chassis I was building on. I'm not sure if I used too much force, got a bad one, or the locktite is to blame. Also I'm looking for any tips or tricks you guys may have for setting up these older types of dampers. So far its still leak free, but has that slight notchy behavior and wants to retract the piston like a spooked turtle.
  4. Ah, so you think it might have been's You-g's predecessor to their independent dampers with the crossover line? I've seen that Dirt Burner's pic on the web, I wonder how that particular damper worked out. It looks like it rely's on internal springs but has a shorter but wider capsule. I'd guess it has a larger diameter piston that could be drilled out for softening. Of note my mono shock has such a small diameter piston that it really couldn't be drilled out or notched to soften its behavior.
  5. That's beautiful stuff. I have much respect for custom fabrication solutions. I have no idea how guys like you come up with stuff out of the blue. It seems like with the push rod/strut? ... you may have less drag or build up of additional friction. How did it wok out for you? I assume you removed the internal springs. It looks like ride height is about at the highest position which would potentially counteract the see-saw rolling. BTW, there's a guy on the Facebook group "Tamiya ORV type chassis" that recently posted pics of his custom monoshock. He mounted the pivots in the middle of some of those custom aluminum cnc'd arms and used a Frog/Brat re-re rear shock. I take a snap, or link it but I'm not sure about the rules on that.
  6. Thank you, I think I have a long way to go. Including learning how to actually drive the thing. I can't find it now but I thought the same Youtube channel Tokai RC Factory had a rear suspension solution that involved using red tamiya racing shocks from the OP-163 pack. I can't find the video now though for some reason. They fit on the rere brat/frog rear shock using the supplied but unused suspension parts. That's what I'm gonna do as I rebuild the rear end next.
  7. That's a good hint! Gotta be one of the classics right you-g, parma, trinity, cup, dirt burners etc. But maybe a first stab at a solution by them? I'm hoping the independent springs will help in some part to resist the sway. I also read on the forums here that keeping it as close to a fully extended damper helps reduce the see-saw, so gotta aim for a higher ride height. Perhaps with lighter oil. Agreed on the PITA for the removal of the damper every time the body comes on/off. Maybe there's a quick release solution, like a shaft and a little pin? The flip side might be that I only have one damper to maintain since these older solutions need TLC. By the way, love your threads on this forum! I've followed all the stuff you did to your frog and your comprehensive list of hop-ups. CRP arms too I see at least one point.
  8. Thanks! I like Bright eyes. I'm in Pittsburgh, door to Middle America maybe? Looking to soften up the dampening with lighter oil or perhaps little to no oil.
  9. Thanks so much! I've got a voice like sandpaper but I use a good mic that smoothes it over a little. That half second makes a lot of sense. Whats interesting is that if you keep one wheel touched down the other side is much quicker with the return. Much closer to under a second. I think this is part of the distributed force of the mono shock complicating things. Regardless I agree that the damper is too stiff, and after doing some reading it seems that if the ride height is lower, the potential for see saw and rolling is increased. So a softer damper ideally should better match the springs, increase ride height and have a faster recovery. With regards to the stock front springs - I thought that since the frog has essentially gotten lighter in re-re form (no AA's, ESC, one servo) the stock front springs are perhaps a bit strong if originally specced for a heavier frog. My first build in stock form didn't compress much when dropping the front. I took inspiration from Tokai RC Factory on Youtube. That person was suggested cutting one ring off of each spring to soften the front suspension: I tried that first, and it was definitely softer. It is just the you-g seemed softer and smoother still so I couldn't resist using it. I have the three softest Tamiya Oils on order, but what you say is the truth; its not about using oil for oil's sake, but getting the best results, and if that means a lubricated friction damper so be it. Will definitely keep yas posted.
  10. It fits but you have to remove the damper to put it on. Definitely a little bit of a pain.
  11. Totally agree! Thanks for taking a look.
  12. This appeared on eBay as an "Unbranded" monoshock and on the bag was "Frog Suspension" written in sharpie. It came with a rear sway bar and resembled the Parma setup I've seen on here with a few key differences. Instead of mounting to custom upper suspension arms it uses L brackets that mount on the front of the suspension. This looked pretty suspect but I was intrigued by the mystery of the brandless hopup so I decided to make it part of my "Mach II" setup. Plus, with the re-re Frog being my first real RC build (I'm late to the game) I wanted to experience first hand the fun of leaky vintage dampers and all the quirks that come with a monoshock. After figuring out how to keep it from binding everything up I found that it offered some unique benefits. I have the CRP suspension arms with the metal bushing in the holes which really go a long way to reduce slop so it was great that this setup doesn't require the special upper arms that other frog monoshocks do. Also the L Brackets seem to add to the stability of the suspension and because the damper relies on the internal springs of the Frog I was able to use much softer You-G springs that came from the kit that's too pretty to use at this stage. I'd love to hear if anybody has any idea where these might have come from. They are so similar to the parma setup that I wonder if maybe they were an earlier variation, but I know companies like dirt burners have also done a frog mono setup. Regardless it's been very fun putting these together so if anyone has critiques, tips or experiences they'd like to share I'd love to hear them. I'm going to give this setup a go while the you-g independent dampers wait in the wings for a bit. I'm still a terrible driver.
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