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  1. Thanks both for taking the trouble to reply. I’ll do a bit more digging around myself and will check next time my RC Truck Club meets. However, I seem to recall seeing both wheeled transmitters and (plenty of) MFC’s, but not together. Thanks again. Martin
  2. Hello I'm looking to start my 2nd RC truck shortly and planning a Mercedes 3363 (or possibly Scalia R620). I will install an MFC for the benefits of light and sound, but would really like to use a transmitter with a wheel, rather than 2 sticks. I’m sure that this is not a problem to do, but wonder if anyone has any advice on what to look out for in potential transmitters or even any suggestions. I’ve seen an example of a 6 channel one, which I assume would be suitable, but would welcome any help before diving in and making a blind purchase. Hope that someone can provide some assistance. Thanks in advance. Martin
  3. Thanks for the photo, make a bit more sense now. The bottom LED’s look lovely and bright and that’s the look that I want to be going for. So, by the sounds of it, the standard LED’s in the MFC kit (did you use 01 or 03?) will be fine but I might need a few extra to get the same standard in the roof lights. Thanks Martin
  4. Hello I have a question regarding the lights on the front of this model and I’m hoping that someone has already built one! I’m thinking if this as my next model, but want to have a nice set of illuminated lights on the front. The kit shows both bumper and roof lights but do these light up and if so, do they come with the kit or would I need to buy them separately? Would be interested in hearing any tips that you might of on this model as well. Hope that someone might be able to help. Thanks Martin
  5. Russ The speaker box does overhang the metal plate, but I guess I could try and remove some of the excess to see if that helps a bit. I’ve got it all back together for Sunday’s meet, so will have a look early next week all being well. Thanks again for your help. Martin
  6. Russ I think I’m probably 3-4mm too high at a guess. The speaker box is higher than the MFC unit and was only held in place with a bit of double sided sticky tape, just to see how well (or not!) things fitted together. There are 2 versions of the speaker front, depending upon whether or not you need to mount the speaker into a box or directly onto the body of the truck. The latter looks to be more for European type trucks than the American style ones. Will keep investigating - I have a truck club meet this weekend, so will try and see if anyone else has been successful. Thanks again. Martin
  7. Russ Thanks for the prompt response. I’ve tried all of the pieces individually to ascertain that it is the speaker box that is causing the problem. Unfortunately, if I remove the speaker from the box, the sound quality deteriorates noticeably. I don’t think I can shorten the legs on the mounting piece, as there seems very little space underneath because of the location of the vibration unit. Will keep trying other options and thanks again for the response. Martin
  8. Russ Thanks for the piece, I’m intrigued as to how you got the driver and MFC to fit. I have the Matt Black edition of the Grand Hauler and have been trying to do exactly what you’ve done. In my case, it seems the speaker is hitting the roof and preventing the cab to come down far enough to be screwed to the chassis. I’ve tried many different configurations but still cannot get it all to fit, so must be doing something wrong. Any other advice would be most welcome. Thanks Martin
  9. Apologies for the delay in replying, but I think I’ve managed to solve this issue as a side effect of fitting a slower motor to the truck. The standard motor was far too quick for the truck, so I fitted a 55T motor in it’s place. By slowing everything down, I no longer have any crunching or grating noises. I’d previously tried swapping around part BD12 (Long Gear Hub), as this has a small lip on one end and the instructions aren’t totally clear as to which way they should go on, but this made no difference. So, not only does everything seem OK, it’s much easier to drive, particularly indoors now. Many thanks to all who have taken the trouble to help over the last few weeks. Martin
  10. Thanks berman for the info. I’ve got a new higher spec servo coming for the steering, so when that arrives and I’ve got it apart again, I’ll try the tweaking to the gear change servo as well. I’ve noticed that the servo is pushing/pulling the shift rod to the end of the travel OK, so maybe the graunching is still from inside the gearbox itself? Thanks again Martin
  11. Dafinity - Thanks so much for the instructions, they are certainly not in the manual that I have, so I’ll give them a go. Thanks again. Martin
  12. Tamiya big stuff - Thanks, I’ve checked the forks but all looks OK as does the rest. Have got springs etc all OK. topforcein - Will try and get video over the next few days - thanks again.
  13. Thanks Mokei. Initially, I hadn’t glued those bronze bearings in place, but I did on the subsequent rebuild, although they were a tight fit anyway and getting them in place without getting instant glue all over me was a little tricky! I believe that the only ball bearings in the gearbox are the ones in the 2 metal end plates (4 in total) where the 2 gear shafts sit. All of the bearings in the plastic cogs are bronze ones, although it is only the J7 ones that have been glued; I assume I’ve read the instructions correctly that this is correct? Thanks again Martin
  14. Topforcein - Thanks again. I’m pretty sure that it was built correctly, as I did pay extra close attention on the re-build. Got the little plastic jobbie in as well. I did wonder if I’d got the 3rd selected gear the wrong way round, as that was the one causing the problem, but it really only goes in one way. I refitted it back to the truck and it runs fine with the extended servo horn. Now, whether that is because you don’t hear anything above the noise of the truck moving, I don’t know, or whether it is the fact that there is some movement from the road wheels turning that is helping to equal things out? I too had problems with the driveshafts, and had to remove the edge from one of the metal casings, as it was hitting the plastic cover. I also lost drive to the rear wheels before realising that the little grub screw had come out from the rear axle, so the cone was just literally turning on itself! Alas, my 5th wheel is also sitting flat, so sounds like I’ve got to look at that again. Trouble is, with one set of instructions with the truck, one with the MFC and another set for the support legs, it’s a little confusing! Thanks again. Martin
  15. Thanks very much for the responses. Topforcein - I figured that was a problem so I’d changed the parts for some spare ones I had in order to make a longer ‘throw’ from the servo. Alas, no joy though. Dafinity - I’ve read the manual again and searched online, but couldn’t find anything about this ‘learning’ activity. There is the standard 6 steps that are in the manual, that I’ve done, but nothing that I could find about maximising the trims. Don’t suppose you have any more information? Thanks again for your help.
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