Jump to content

Gazzalene

Members
  • Content Count

    344
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

113 Excellent

About Gazzalene

  • Rank
    Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    England, South coast

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. As the plastic melts and welds together, the pressure from the clamp pushes material outwards from the joint. Effectively self-filling. When sanded smooth it looks like the 2 halves of the helmet were moulded as a single part. The above statement is the preferred method of a "seam" join. When you come to sand all the area is the same material,so all sands the same way BUT again if a "hot" glue like MEK,TET etc was used it can take days to fully dry under the surface. some thick wall styrene like ship hulls can take weeks to dry properly. its a chemical reaction which remains. if you heated the styrene till it was very soft then let it dry it would sand and never shrink,no chemicals.
  2. Been back in the hobby for couple yrs now. Have way too many types of cars already and makes,have 7 Tamiya cars BUT stayed away from buggies. Grew up with Avantes,bigwigs,hotshots etc. Can not justify the Avante costs,i will run this so makes it a no go. I going with a Super hotshot, would like a Hotshot, preferred the lay down shock look BUT will have to settle for a Super. I have seen recently lots of "trick" or "custom" hotshots. Seen a great silver and back model on a YT channel which gave ideas. A lot of vintage upgrades were used which I would not be able to get. I know nothing about the Super or hotshot regards faults or weakness. I will be using 2s cells,if I can get these that fit in the uk. Also a hot motor, not decided on BL or Bsd. If I go BL is there room for some of the bigger 1/10th esc? I had issues with a HW fitting XV-01. Do the diffs and drive train need any mods/upgrades with hot motor? lastly any tips on parts to add or upgrade would be great,thanks lastly,lastly Other than HW does anyone know of a BL motor in black and silver?
  3. The seem if filled with solvent filler can takes days to fully dry,even weeks if a lot was used. sometimes the paint can soften the filler enough to show,if the paint is solvent based. I learnt this from years of model kit making. if in a rush use super glue to fill the seam/gap,not as easy to use but no shrinkage at all.
  4. I do not often sell so not up on best method. I have something on FB for the first time ever. On other listings the sellers say, if paying by paypal you pay the 3.6% fee. This seems a good idea ,the buyer gets protection on a private sale for only a small charge. The guy I am going to sell to said he wants to use family and friend option. So no fees for either of us.i presume he trusts me. I would just like to ask that will I the "seller" be at risk? does paypal presume that te person sending money to a family member or friend would not use a stolen card or dodgy account etc? Could they remove money from me at some point if a problem arises? Am I best saying pay by PP as a proper sale and swallow the fee myself? Its £250 so a lot to lose, also did not want to insist on this and lose sale. Thanks for any tips
  5. Tamiya seem to stick to the same trick all the time. I realise that there are many companies that specialise in 4x4, crawlers,sand racers etc that would be your first port of call if you want that kind of model BUT Tamiya don't even try! The g wagons are toy like. Tamiya seem to knock out the same old stuff which is a shame because you can not be the quality.
  6. This is why Kyosho as been bought out??? The new buyers are robot dedicated??? perhaps the car side will dwindle?
  7. "That sounds awesome. I´ve made some bad decicions in the Past. The Absima Thrust 18t Motor is super weak and slow and i´m also not very happy with the Carson Cupmachine. But i have some old Motors laying around, maybe i will post some pictures of them for recomentations." I bought a Absima BL motor and esc, will not buy anymore. The quality was nowhere near as good as HW for very similar cost. Will stick with HW ,well first choice at least.
  8. I would say not to get "hooked" on the Tamiya brand. Ok, kit wise you had to go Tamiya BUT elecs etc you get better and cheaper really easy,once you know what to get and for that just ask here.
  9. Now being 55yrs old, I bought my first pair of comfy jeans, non designer . Does this qualify?
  10. Re-Bugged, that's all good info thanks. I am going to take the BL uncensored out and try a Brushed with 2s. Read that the Tamiya TBLE2 can run lower than spec`ed turns. I will have to look into what turn will be fun in the blitzer. if and when the esc blows will go with a HW 1060 etc.
  11. Censored or un? I put a Absyma un in mine and the cogging drives me nuts,did not know about cogging prior, will not buy un again. Thinking of getting another Blitzer and change the styling a bit. mine not box art but all else is.
  12. Hello, The screws with the motor issue is probably that the motor holes are not quite lined up with the screws. It does need some jiggling OR you have not put the pinion on correct and its catching the spur? take the pinion of the motor then try to mount the motor,if it mounts ok you know its the pinion. Regards the stickers, cut around the sticker as close as you can without hitting the design THEN using knife/scalpel try to catch the edge of the cut ,I use the very tip of the blade dug into the sticker at a corner,just be careful either way not to damage the sticker
  13. Been following from the start and like others it as given me the urge to jump in a get one! Being in the UK like you my only concern is lack of upgrades here to buy,non Tamiya. Also I know very little of Clod stuff,have you found any goods sites,groups etc ,other than here. Not lazy but only so much time I can spend on the laptop.
  14. Did not try new wheels but swapped every corner so to speak ,the issue was always at the rear same corner. never really bothered to find out if the more or less toe-in was the correct, (left or right) made a good job of the shell so it spends its time on show. This issue made me lose interest in it. Tried different arms,up grade pin holders (JJ parts) spacers and washers all checked multiple times. Rear toe-in always odd at the rear. Chassis was placed on paper and holes marked paper then folded on centre line,all are correct. There is some minute play you can use when tightening down BUT not enough to rectify. Never had a problem I could not find,might not be able to fix BUT could always find.Not in this case. I did take pictures from above and its noticeable on squared paper BUT lost the pic now.
  15. I had/have a issue with my XV-01. New kit built by me. I have built a fair few IC and Elec heli kits in the past and Tamiya kits are no issue build wise. I built the XV-01 by the manual and got the chassis built no elecs and bunged the on shod wheels on. To check steering geometry etc. Doing this I noticed the rear wheels had odd toe-in. The correct spacers and washers etc was all used,so was the correct pivot pin blocls,differ front to back. I checked everything several times even thought the holes in the chassis bottom might be out. All seem ok. I can not think I am the only guy to get a "faulty" Tamiya part. Even today the toe-in on the rear ,right hand side is off and can not be altered.Did a search and found nothing.
×
×
  • Create New...