dannymulder

This is not the first time some one ask this, but the 70mm shafts are to long and bind, , the only thing that works is db-01/trf501 rear driveshaft with some modding, I made a tread for this a long time ago for my boomerang, but it works with the hotshot to, I have done it also on a hotshot.

I have the Hpi jumpshot mt V2 for some time now, you can get parts for it on different webshops they are not so hard to get, but it is a pretty tough car I have a lot of runs on the car but nothing broke of wear. If you want to buy 1 get the brushless version this one has upgrade metal gears in the gearbox, the brushed one is just the old one with plastic gears. I have upgrade some parts on it, the servo saver is crab, changed it for a Tamiya high torqeu one and changed the spur gear to a 32 pitch, and bought the option wheely bar and put on the bumper from the sc model.

Thank you, running a 3900kv brushless motor on 2s lipo in it, a lot of people running brushless motor in this chassis whitout a problem, but to be safe I am going to glue the spur gear to the shaft.

After being sick for almost 2 weeks, first I got the stomach flu for 5 days and then Corona felt pretty bad, today I felt a lot better still not 100%, so I took my new build fire dragon to the beach. I really like the car it handles pretty wel and I liked it a lot , but after 1 battery pack the car was making a clicking noise so I went home, at home I toke apart the rear gearbox and found some pieces of plastic in between the gears, at first I could not find where they are coming from because al the gears looked fine, then saw the problem, the hole in the spur gear where the shaft is going in that normal lock the spur gear and look half moon was completed rounded out with some force you can turn the gear over the shaft that have to lock it. I never have heard of seen it over here on the forum, so I think it is not a weak spot, I am going to order some new gears. I thinking to super glue the gear to the shaft to be sure that it is not going to happen again.

The lexan sheet I bought from Tamico, they have different thickness of lexan sheets, Conrad sells them to, 1.5mm was the thickest they got it was very hard to cut with an lexan scissor.

Thanks

finished my new fire dragon build, and made an new roof panel from a 1.5mm lexan sheet for the Losi rock rey.

My fire dragon build is almost done, then I am going to run it on the beach, so I wil see of thing are going to bind on this model, If it does maybe I am use a little grease.

I am running my cars for years 99% of the time on the beach, and I never use grease, in the begin when I started the hobby I used grease but It was acting like a grinding paste and stuff wear quickly. So grease on the beach is a big no no for me, but to be honest I do not have the experience that things seized up like steering and suspension arms, and to put grease on them every run and then remove it and put new on seems like a lot of work, maybe it is the grain of the sand why I do not have seized up parts, the grain here on the beach is rough. Maybe use Dry lube, I have used that and it works fine.

Even with the spring tensioners on those front shocks, you have to build them with an 6mm spacer to fit this chassis, and even with the cupped spring retainer there is not al lot of travel in this shock for this chassis, with the suspension arms horizontal you are allready at the end of the shock travel, the tamiya 53155 are way better for the front end of this chassis the are the correct lenght and have a lot of travel. I used the hi cap without a spacer and used an long eyeled and used as a monoshock set up for my firedragon, then they have enough travel to bottom out nicely. so my opinion the hi caps are not the best way to go, if you want 4 shock set up, then there are better options for the front shocks of the car, the rears are fine and have enough travel in them.

Did some more building on my new fire Dragon, I saw some of this cars with hi caps on them so I tought they wil fit nice on the car, the rears where fine and I was happy with them, but the front shocks you have to build them with spacers inside to fit this chassis then they have very little stroke in them and with the suspension arms horizontal they allready where at the end of the shock, I did not like that. First I wanted to use a set of red alloy tamiya 53155 that I have lying around, this shocks had a lot more travel and fit the car nicely, but then I tought maybe I can use the hi cap at the front without the spacer inside and use it as a mono shock at the front like the Thunder Dragon because all the parts are allready in the kit. So with a long eyeled and a different spring the shock works fine now at the front, the car bottoms out nicely even without the bumper and with hotshot wheels that are a little bit larger in diameter as the fire dragon, the hotshot wheels are only on this chassis for trying out the suspension. The only thing I do not like now is that I had allready cut the body so there is more cut off the body then was necessary

I am building a fire dragon at this moment with the hi caps shocks, the rears are fine and really like them, the front shocks on this car with the spacer in it do not have a lot of stroke, I have some other dampers that have way more stroke, I am thinking to convert it to a mono shock, use the hi caps in front without the spacer. I have seen a lot of this chassis with the hi caps, If I had known before that the front has so little stroke I did not bought them, I do not like it that the chassis not bottom out before the shock do.

The postman brought me some hi caps for my fire dragon build, new gears for my dancing rider, gears for my hotshot, some bearings, alloy body post for my lunchbox, some dt-03 alloy c hubs, and some nice delrin suspension arms for my new lunchbox, to do the double wishbone conversion.

I have a ta-03 rs rere and an vintage ta-03f, the ta-03f drives the way I like it, I can give it full trottle with a brushless 3000 kv motor and it goes without much wheelspin,it has a lot of grip and goes always in a straigt line, and it handles very good can turn the car at high speed and the cars drives like it is on rails. The ta-03rs no matter what I do it is very tail happy with a lot of oversteer,I have to be very gently on the trotthle or it spins out, on full trottle it always pulls to one side and, it is like a driving a drift car, first I tought it where the tires so I put the same tires on it that I have on my 03f, rebuild the diffs, have change springs to a little softer that only results in grip rolls, have experimented with the pulley so it had more overdrive on the front to give it more front traction, nothing I have done helps, the punch on the esc is on the lowest, I am a little done with the ta-03rs, I have pulled the motor and esc and servo out of it. So today I was going to all of my ta-03 stuff, and I have enough parts to build another car and more. I only run the cars on parking lots, so what chassis is the best for that, I have all the parts to build a ta-03fs or another ta-03f, there is a ta-03r chassis tub on the web maybe buy that one to make a long wheelbase off the ta-03rs, or maybe of just sell the ta-03 cars and all the parts that I have, the are some rare parts like 3 rear ta-03f rear gearboxes, and a brand new ta-03f chassis tub, ta-03rs in parts, and a lot of spare parts new and used, so if some one makes my a good offer for everything. Not all the parts are in the pictures I have more😁 Or is it better to build the car with the new parts and then sell so that they are in perfect state, I have an expert build mercedes body that is in mint state.

I have the dremel for soldering thick wires for that it is perfect, with a normal solder iron it is a pain to solder thick battery wires with the dremel an easy job. And sometimes I use it to heat metal parts that use treadlock to loosen them.