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Posts posted by dannymulder

  1. 20 minutes ago, Pizza Frog said:

    I took the Firedragon for a run today.  


    I have spent many late hours rebuilding the front suspension of the green vintage frog and cleaning it's wheels 


     I did an experiment and used ceramic grease on the front spring holders instead of anti-wear grease, it makes the front suspension noticeably softer.   

    It looks like you painted your firedragon the same color as mine, or is yours purple.



    • Like 2

  2. 1 hour ago, Jason1145 said:

    I’m recently back to the hobby after a few years break and also up to it in old ( and new) parts, good to be back right?!

    Yes it is good to be back the last 3 years did not do much with rc, run only a few times my cars and that was about it, I thought of selling everything, but I did  not do it , and  I did not needed the money,  the last 3 years I was more addicted to Lego building.

    Now I am a little tired of building lego and picked up the rc hobby,  bought 2 new cars and ordered parts for cars that are broken, now I am sorting al of the parts that I have put away in boxes.

     Run this month more times with my cars then the past 3 years, and I am excited to start building new cars and do rc stuff, haven't got has this feeling in a long time.

    • Like 4

  3. Give myself  headache, after a few years of doing not very much with my rc stuff ,I put a lot of parts and other stuff together in boxes, now I am starting to sort things out, this is a small amount of it.

    I have more boxes with springs, shocks, wheels and tires, motors, electric parts, 4 boxes of ta-03 parts that I can build 3 cars out of it, and parts from cars that need to repair:wacko:.

    So for now it keeps me busy:D





    • Like 7

  4. After 3 years not buying any rc stuff, I bought this 2 cars, always wanted an mf-01x, and when the BBX came out I want that one to, both of them where on sale €108 for the mf-01x and €250 for the BBX.

    I have a few more orders with hopups for the cars, from tamico and asiaties, so I have to wait for those parts to start building the cars. 



    • Like 9

  5. For me the best tires for dusty rough car parks are  the reely brand that you can buy at conrad this ones ,https://www.conrad.nl/nl/p/reely-1-10-straatmodel-complete-wielen-s-profiel-10-spaaks-zwart-4-stuk-s-237725.html

    I have tried a lot of different brand of tires from cheap to expensive ones, most of the tires have poor grip  with high power brushless and last only 2 or 3 battery packs.

    These reely tires have a lot of grip and they last a long time with my high power brushless  cars, I can get 15 to 20 battery packs out of them, so for me this are the only ones I buy for  dusty rough car parks, they look like HPI vintage tires.

  6. I have the Hpi jumpshot mt V2 for some time now, you can get parts for it on different webshops they are not so hard to get, but it is a pretty tough car I have a lot of runs on the car but nothing broke of wear.

    If you want to buy 1 get the brushless version this one has upgrade metal gears in the gearbox, the brushed one is just the old one with plastic gears.

    I have upgrade some parts on it, the servo saver is crab, changed it for a Tamiya high torqeu one and changed the spur gear to a 32 pitch,  and bought the option wheely bar and put on the bumper from the sc model.


    • Like 3

  7. 14 minutes ago, Willy iine said:

    @dannymulder Sorry to hear about your illness and this gear that broke.   I too have not heard of those D-key’ed gears breaking.  Are you running a fast motor?

    Hope you’re back to 100% and get your replacement gear soon!  

    Thank you, running  a 3900kv brushless motor on 2s lipo in it, a lot of people running brushless motor in this chassis whitout a problem, but to be safe I am going to glue the spur gear to the shaft.

    • Like 1

  8. After being sick for almost 2 weeks, first I got the stomach flu for 5 days and then Corona felt pretty bad, today I felt a lot better still not 100%, so I took my new build fire dragon to the beach.

    I really like the car it handles pretty wel and I liked it a lot , but after 1 battery pack the car was making a clicking noise so I went home,  at home I toke apart the rear gearbox and found some pieces of plastic in between the gears, at first I could not find where they are coming from because al the gears looked fine, then saw the problem, the hole in the spur gear  where the shaft is going in that normal lock the spur gear and look half moon was completed rounded out with some force you can turn the gear over the shaft that  have to  lock it.

    I never have heard of seen it over here on the forum, so I think it is not a weak spot, I am going to order some new gears. I thinking to super glue the gear to the shaft to be sure that it is not going to happen again.




    • Sad 3

  9. 12 minutes ago, Frankster said:

    Nice blue on the fire dragon!  Where do you get the flat lexan sheet for the roof?

    The lexan sheet I bought from Tamico, they have different thickness of lexan sheets, Conrad sells them to, 1.5mm was the thickest they got it was very hard to cut with an lexan scissor.

    • Like 1

  10. 3 hours ago, nowinaminute said:

    Tried dry lube but it does nothing to stop it getting into places and binding stuff.

    It could well be a factor of grain size, plus I tend to run in the very dry sand that kicks up in clouds everywhere.

    Seems to affect different vehicles differently, too. I don't recall ever having a problem with my Lunchbox or heavy dump truck, for example (apart from now and then it will get into the steering link ball joint on the dump truck)

    But certainly the Thunder Dragon has done it every time I've taken it out. In particular it gets stiff in these places.


    There's such a small contact area I was in disbelief that it was sand at first but after cleaning and reassembling again, it went back to being smooth as silk. Then I ran it again and the same thing happened. But after adding grease, it would make it through a run without binding.

    I also had the same thing with the TD steering assembly. Although to be fair, this has happened after running in fine dirt as well, so not exclusive to the beach. But the same kind of thing where sand seems to get in and seize it up, preventing it from centering properly after a steering input. Again, only adding some grease seemed to prevent it. You can see in the photo where grease has caught the sand, but has also stopped it getting further inside, assessed on the mechanism still being free after several runs whereas before it got stiff and "crunchy" after every run.


    I suppose like most things in life, there's a thousand variables at work simultaneously so there's no catch all answer for every scenario. I still general avoid greasing for the most part, but in some cases it certainly seems to help. 

    On a side note, I've taken my Kyosho Mad Van to the beach just 3 times with no grease and look at the ball joints on the front uprights 😳 


    That part has never seen grease and it's getting nicely chewed up, still.

    My fire dragon build is almost done, then I am going to run it on the beach, so I wil see of thing are going to bind on this model, If it does maybe I am use a little grease.

  11. 18 hours ago, nowinaminute said:

    So, commonly accepted wisdom that most people avoid greasing most of the external points that Tamiya suggest in the manuals. I'm talking stuff like dog bones, suspension arm pins etc.

    The idea being that grease will only trap dirt/grit/sand and create a grinding paste and accelerate wear.

    I've generally followed this practice and it has seemed to work OK. Dirt will still eventually get ina nd wear places but it seems to happen at a slower rate than with grease present.

    But recently, I've noticed some things, especially when running at the beach a lot. I've noticed that without grease, suspension arms and steering cranks can often become seized up from fine sand/grit getting stuck in there and causing  a lot of friction. Imagine if you press the car down and there's no rebound, it just sort of stays where it is. And with the steering you can never quite get the car to stay centered because that little bit of slack has gone, even with the servo disconnected, the steering assembly is firm/stiff and not free moving.

    I've been taking my Thunder Dragon to the beach a lot recently and the first few times, the suspension arms and steering would both get stiff and not move freely after a while and when taken apart, were bunged up with fine powdered sand. Had similar experiences with various other RCs inc DT02/03, kyosho, Nikko you name it. I've also noticed that no grease combined with all plastic ball joints (ie: where the ball itself is plastic) leads to very fast wear.

    Anyways, I decided to try adding a little grease, just to see what would happen and lo and behold, everything was moving nicely after the run. Although grease will trap sand, it also hinders it from quickly making progress into small places. Just like I use a bead of grease around the seams in gearboxes to stop sand making it's way in.

    I also found plastic ball joints don't seem to suffer so quickly,  as long as you clean and relube before further use.

    I'm sure if I just left it was it was, the "grinding paste" scenario would eventually come true. But I'm wondering now, if for stuff like beach runs, it might be wiser to use grease, as long as you clean out and replace it again after the run, as opposed to leaving it to gradually absorb more sand/grit etc.

    Anyone else had similar findings? 

    I am running my cars for years 99% of the time on the beach, and I never use grease, in the begin when I started the hobby I used grease but It was acting like a grinding paste and stuff wear quickly.

    So grease on the beach is a big no no for me, but to be honest I do not have the experience that things seized up like steering and suspension arms, and to put grease on them every run and then remove it and put new on seems like a lot of work,  maybe it is the grain of the sand why I do not have seized up parts, the grain here on the beach is rough.

    Maybe use Dry lube, I have used that and it works fine.

  12. 2 hours ago, Saito2 said:

    It is sitting low. There aren't even any spring tensioners on those shocks. If they are like other Hicap shocks, the front lower spring retainers are "cupped" and allow the shock body to drop into them vs a flat retainer yielding more travel.

    Even with the spring tensioners on those front shocks, you have to build them with an 6mm spacer to fit this chassis, and even with the cupped spring retainer there is not al lot of travel in this shock for this chassis, with the suspension arms horizontal you are allready at the end of the shock travel, the tamiya 53155 are way better for the front end of this chassis the are the correct lenght and have a lot of travel.

    I used the hi cap without a spacer and used an long eyeled and used as a monoshock set up for my firedragon, then they have enough travel to bottom out nicely.

    so my opinion the hi caps are not the best way to go,  if you want 4 shock set up, then there are better options  for the front shocks of the car, the rears are fine and have enough travel in them.



    • Like 2

  13. Did some more building on my new fire Dragon, I saw some of this cars with hi caps on them so I tought they wil fit nice on the car, the rears where fine and I was happy with them, but the front shocks you have to build them with spacers inside to fit this chassis then they have very little stroke in them and with the suspension arms horizontal they allready where at the end of the shock, I did not like that.

    First I wanted to use a set of red alloy tamiya 53155 that I have lying around, this shocks had a lot more travel and fit the car nicely, but then I tought maybe I can use the hi cap at the front without the spacer inside and use it as a mono shock at the front like the Thunder Dragon because all the parts are allready in the kit.

    So with a long eyeled and a different spring the shock works fine now at the front, the car bottoms out nicely even without the bumper and with hotshot wheels that are a little bit larger in diameter as the fire dragon, the hotshot wheels are only on this chassis for trying out the suspension.

    The only thing I do not like now is that I had allready cut the body so there is more cut off the body then was necessary





    • Like 4

  14. On 7/3/2022 at 4:32 AM, Snappy1 said:

    Following my post from February, I have finally had some time and have finished the chassis.


    I am building a fire dragon at this moment with the hi caps shocks, the rears are fine and really like them, the front shocks on this car with the spacer in it do not have a lot of stroke, I have some other dampers that have way more stroke,  I am thinking to convert it to a mono shock,  use the hi caps in front without the spacer.

    I have seen a lot of this chassis with the hi caps, If I had known before that the front has so little stroke I did not bought them, I do not like it that the chassis not bottom out before the shock do.

  15. The postman brought me some hi caps for my fire dragon build, new gears for my dancing rider, gears for my hotshot, some bearings, alloy body post  for my lunchbox, some dt-03 alloy c hubs, and some nice delrin suspension arms for my new lunchbox, to do the double wishbone conversion.


    • Like 3

  16. I have a ta-03 rs rere and an vintage ta-03f,  the ta-03f drives the way I like it, I can give it full trottle with a brushless 3000 kv motor and it goes without much wheelspin,it has a lot of grip and  goes always in a straigt line, and it handles very good can turn the car at high speed and the cars drives  like it is on rails.

    The ta-03rs no matter what I do it is very tail happy with a lot of oversteer,I have to be very gently on the trotthle or it spins out, on full trottle it always pulls to one side and, it is like a driving a drift car, first I tought it where the tires so I put the same tires on it that I have on my 03f, rebuild the diffs, have change springs to a little softer that only results in grip rolls, have experimented with the pulley so it had more overdrive on the front to give it more front traction, nothing I have done helps, the punch on the esc is on the lowest, I am a little done with the ta-03rs, I have pulled the motor and esc and servo out of it.

    So today I was going to all of my ta-03 stuff, and I have enough parts to build another car and more.

    I only run the cars on parking lots, so what chassis is the best for that, I have all the parts to build a ta-03fs or another ta-03f, there is a ta-03r chassis tub on the web maybe buy that one to make a long wheelbase off the ta-03rs, or  maybe of just sell the ta-03 cars and all the parts that I have, the are some rare parts like 3 rear ta-03f rear gearboxes, and a brand new ta-03f chassis tub,   ta-03rs in parts, and a lot of spare parts new and used, so if some one makes my a good offer for everything.

    Not all the parts are in the pictures I have more😁

    Or is it better to build the car with the new parts and then sell so that they are in perfect state, I have an expert build mercedes body that is in mint state.


    52176267757_7d6bd32702_k (1).jpg

    52177782440_a3e7dd2eb8_k (1).jpg





  17. 6 hours ago, GeeWings said:

    Like  most things nowadays it gets very varying reviews. It serves a few purposes though and does seem pretty useful.


    I have the dremel for soldering thick wires for that it is perfect, with a normal solder iron it is a pain to solder thick battery wires with the dremel an easy job.

    And sometimes I use it to heat metal parts that use treadlock to loosen them.

    • Thanks 1

  18. Good to see that there is no more sand in the gearbox, build both of the gearboxes today and used on the gearbox halfs a lot of grease, only for the motor mount I am going to use silicone sealent, now I have to make up my mind what motor I am going to put in it, I have a castle 5700kv motor that came out of my hotshot and a 3900 kv motor.

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