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Big Jon

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  1. EZ Wider rolling papers sponsored the Polish Racing Team's "Rolling Gold" Vega in one of the Cannonball Runs.
  2. The matte finish is slightly rough, and the silvering is air trapped under the sticker or decal.
  3. I've been running around a little gymkhana out in front of my house with the M cars. It's been raining the past few days, though.
  4. The AR60 axles are plenty tough. You might break something down the road, but they're fine. Since Horizon has acquired Axial, the quality has improved noticably. Wouldn't worry too much about durability on the SMT unless you are planning on overpowering it and beating it to death.
  5. Man, that's really too bad. Such a great looking body, too.
  6. I'd grab a TXT or SMT, myself. The upgraded SMT is pretty viable now. You might want to add hardened ring and pinions, aluminum c-hubs, knuckles, and lockouts, and, if you're going to put any power to it, the optional link stiffeners and upper links. They drive surprisingly well, and there are plenty of option parts for AR60 axles, because they are very popular over here for U4 rigs. Probably wouldn't put Clod tires on it, though. The TXT is a beast. Still haven't had seen one in person though, but I've sold a few kits. I'd rather have one than a SMT. The stock wheels and tires have got to go; I can live with the body with a different scheme. As for the Clod, I just don't like 'em. I've had the opportunity to wheel a bunch of them, and while they're all awesome to look at, even the highly modified ones just weren't that much fun. Honestly, Redcat Groundpounders are more fun to me when they aren't broken, which is never. Stock Clods are disappointing and rickety.
  7. The stickers will "silver" on the clear edges if they are applied over a matte finish. I'd apply them over the gloss color coat, then apply flat clear over them. Of course, very light on the first few coats. Clearing over them will also improve their durability.
  8. I'm working on a 1/48 Hobbyboss A-7. I do 1/48 American Cold War stuff from time to time.
  9. Your LHS might have an account with Tamiya USA, or you can order direct yourself. Horizon has a decent selection of kits, and, considering that they own Tower, so does Tower. TQ Racing has quite a few parts. I've found AMain to be lacking in Tamiya selection, although they're getting better. I often order from RCMart, and, a lot of the time, several of us will do a big order and split shipping. There are more RC guys out there than you think. Try building your local network, both online and in person, so you can have some homies to run with and share ideas with.
  10. The high torque servo savers don't come with a 24t. I'm not positive, but I don't think that the kits do, either.
  11. I've never been much of a fan of Hitec servos. The mid-range servos are too expensive for the spec and durability, and they use that stupid 24t spline. The high-end servos are really expensive, and don't perform as well as similarly priced servos from Futaba, Savox, Sanwa, etc. The chargers are ok, but lack high power balancing circuits. Perfectly adequate for 2S/3S use, though, and very reliable and easy to use.
  12. G601 is really fun, especially with 4WS. Bearings, oil shocks, high torque servo savers (a must for all runners), and a zesty motor will do it. Mine's kinda blinged. 10.5t, Protek 100T servos, aluminum servo mount, all low friction screws, e-clip hingepins and braces, chassis braces, etc. Nothing radical, but a nice sprinkling of hop ups. It's probably been driven by every RC guy in Dallas, and has been really fun and durable.
  13. The electronics: a SkyRC Toro TS120 Pro, SkyRC Ares 13.5 Mod motor, SkyRC gyro, Turnigy TGY-159BL servo, and Futaba R204GF-E antennaless RX. Using a gyro works very well for rally use; it greatly expands the setup window, so you aren't constantly chasing setup as conditions change during the event. I use between 0-10% gain, usually in the 3-5% range. Higher gain settings deaden the car too much. The TS120 is a great speedo, and available for well less than $100. I don't use a fan for reliability reasons, and have never had the slightest issue with heat, even with high boost settings and hot Texas asphalt. It has all of the features you expect from a true mod racing ESC, too, so it's easily tuned for power and personal preference. Mine has 20° ramping, 15° turbo on a .5 second delay, and 30° on the can. Great horsepower, low heat. The motor was disassembled and given a thorough delousing. Always surprising how much filth hides in a motor. As for the RX, it's the smallest S-FHSS receiver, and lacks an antenna to make for a neater install. No idea about the range- I can't tell which way the car is going before it runs out of range.
  14. Thanks! Other than the reinforced shock plastics, I didn't have anything else planned. There isn't much left to do until the transmission housings show up next week. The XV is a really fun chassis. If you build one, you definitely won't regret it, although the FF03 is really interesting looking. I haven't decided what to rebuild next- I've got a wrecked TB05, an RC10CE that's complete, and a few more waiting on some TLC.
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