Big Jon

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About Big Jon

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  1. Based on the mess after a couple of runs (and a smoked Torque Tuned), I'd say that it leaked from the diff! I really don't think that one could get an acceptable leak rate from an unsealed diff.
  2. Guys, learn from my mistake... Even 1,000,000 CST oil will leak out of an unsealed diff and make a sticky mess of your gearbox.
  3. I fall into the large, shaved head, bearded, tattoo'd ogre in a black t-shirt category as well, and, unsurprisingly, haven't ever had an issue with anyone, wether alone or with a group of my similarly appearing friends... Except from old ladies. I swear that some old women are just looking for men having a good time to bitch at! They're usually pretty funny with their righteous rage at grown men fiddling with expensive toys, so it really doesn't bother me. On the other hand, we host bi- weekly "bash sessions" in our parking lot where we block off half of the lot and drive our cars around and socialize. We've had people drive through the cones to cut past the stop light, people scream and swear at us, even one lady call the cops. The cop came and talked to me for a while, drove a few cars for a bit, then went across the street, told the lady that it was our parking lot, not public property, that we could do as we pleased, wrote her old man a ticket for cutting through, and let her know that we had a good case for harassment building. She and her old man haven't been a problem since. Some people...
  4. The differentials are identical front and rear. The TA06 rear diff is used in several models, while the TA06 front diff has a pulley on it and (I think) is only used on the TA06. The rear separate suspension mount is the least likely to break, so you should be ok.
  5. You don't need steel diff gears in an XV-01 unless you have some crazy system in it. Mine has the original plastic gears and cross shafts still. A 13.5 is just about right with 5.5:1 or so FDR. As for the separate suspension mounts, you'll need two 54379, one 54376, and one 54377 for a complete car. You will definitely want the reinforced drive belt. It just lasts and lasts.
  6. You can get the spacers from RPP or AMain here in the states. They are listed as rod end spacers for SCX10-II. I use Associated style slipper gears on mine to get 48p and a wide range of ratio options.
  7. I use 55mm TRF shocks, the shock shafts from 60mm Yeah Racing shocks, and springs from the rally spring set. Shock length is 58mm assembled. Works very well off road and on.
  8. The SSD spacer is what you use to replace the NN2 spacer. Shorty packs probably won't fit correctly. The blue Savox servos are too tall. I use low profile servos, but any true standard size servo fits, like a Savox 1258 or Protek 100SS. Probably grab a high torque servo saver. The one packaged for the TT02 comes with an aluminum horn.
  9. Big Jon

    Body part glue help - shoe goo OK on PS paint?

    As long as the glue has cured, you are good to go. My rally bodies are covered with Shoe Goo and drywall tape. If you crash hard enough, it'll pull the paint off of the Lexan, but I'm talking about short course style beatings, not fun running.
  10. Big Jon

    The Cool Wheels Thread

    Wow, I had no idea that Tamiya made anything like that! Thanks for sharing these with me. I always thought that the Advance Mini Mags were awesome, but these are another level. My personal favorites are the Lancia wheels.
  11. The XV-01 is my all-time favorite chassis. It's such a peach in real world conditions. When you setup the electronics, if you put the ESC at the front of the radio box, you'll need a 275mm sensor wire. Associated spurs fit the slipper assembly perfectly if you want to use 48p pinions. Aluminum suspension mounts are a must! They fix the only weak area on the car. SSD00151 rod end spacers are an exact fit for the layshaft spacer. The Tamiya CVDs are are much nicer than the Yeah ones. You can remove the steering stop screws from the knuckles with CVDs and gain some steering angle. Long rod ends on the shocks seems to cause more problems than it solves. The kit setup is very good. 13.5 is "just right" for me. Plenty of controllable poop, not too fast or too slow.
  12. Big Jon

    Newbie introduction

    All this talk about stick transmitters... The Futaba 4GRS has excellent ergonomics and capability. It's essentially a 4PLS in a stick format. Either transmitter is worth the lettuce. Why are stick transmitters so popular in the UK?
  13. Big Jon

    Top Force vs Super Astute

    I'm building a Super Astute right now, and it's a real peach. It has some very interesting design features that are making the build a pleasure, it was nicely boxed, the components are (mostly) attractive. It's a better thought out buggy than the Top Force, and of a higher quality standard. I've never built a Top Force, but have done plenty of TA01/02s. That said, the Top Force in box art is smashing, and I'm still kicking myself for missing the re-release. I won't miss it next time, or if Mr. T does an Evo. Off topic a bit, but I'd really like to see MS versions of re-release, like a full option DF02, or a really trick Fox... With all hex hardware, of course.
  14. Big Jon

    anyone heard of Spec-R?

    I've got some Spec-R arms and body mount stiffeners on my MF-01X. Very nice stuff, fit properly, too.
  15. Big Jon

    Yeah Racing 'QUTUS'

    My old Kyosho Platinums were externally adjustable back in the late '80s. The shaft was so thick that there wasn't enough volume compensation with bladders. Really cool idea that didn't work.