Big Jon

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Everything posted by Big Jon

  1. Big Jon

    Reliable esc for dirt tuned motor

    I'm a huge fan of the Hobbywing 1080. It's a little spendy, but dead reliable and adjustable for different applications. It's also very attractive, if that matters.
  2. Based on the mess after a couple of runs (and a smoked Torque Tuned), I'd say that it leaked from the diff! I really don't think that one could get an acceptable leak rate from an unsealed diff.
  3. Guys, learn from my mistake... Even 1,000,000 CST oil will leak out of an unsealed diff and make a sticky mess of your gearbox.
  4. I fall into the large, shaved head, bearded, tattoo'd ogre in a black t-shirt category as well, and, unsurprisingly, haven't ever had an issue with anyone, wether alone or with a group of my similarly appearing friends... Except from old ladies. I swear that some old women are just looking for men having a good time to bitch at! They're usually pretty funny with their righteous rage at grown men fiddling with expensive toys, so it really doesn't bother me. On the other hand, we host bi- weekly "bash sessions" in our parking lot where we block off half of the lot and drive our cars around and socialize. We've had people drive through the cones to cut past the stop light, people scream and swear at us, even one lady call the cops. The cop came and talked to me for a while, drove a few cars for a bit, then went across the street, told the lady that it was our parking lot, not public property, that we could do as we pleased, wrote her old man a ticket for cutting through, and let her know that we had a good case for harassment building. She and her old man haven't been a problem since. Some people...
  5. The differentials are identical front and rear. The TA06 rear diff is used in several models, while the TA06 front diff has a pulley on it and (I think) is only used on the TA06. The rear separate suspension mount is the least likely to break, so you should be ok.
  6. You don't need steel diff gears in an XV-01 unless you have some crazy system in it. Mine has the original plastic gears and cross shafts still. A 13.5 is just about right with 5.5:1 or so FDR. As for the separate suspension mounts, you'll need two 54379, one 54376, and one 54377 for a complete car. You will definitely want the reinforced drive belt. It just lasts and lasts.
  7. You can get the spacers from RPP or AMain here in the states. They are listed as rod end spacers for SCX10-II. I use Associated style slipper gears on mine to get 48p and a wide range of ratio options.
  8. I use 55mm TRF shocks, the shock shafts from 60mm Yeah Racing shocks, and springs from the rally spring set. Shock length is 58mm assembled. Works very well off road and on.
  9. The SSD spacer is what you use to replace the NN2 spacer. Shorty packs probably won't fit correctly. The blue Savox servos are too tall. I use low profile servos, but any true standard size servo fits, like a Savox 1258 or Protek 100SS. Probably grab a high torque servo saver. The one packaged for the TT02 comes with an aluminum horn.
  10. Big Jon

    Body part glue help - shoe goo OK on PS paint?

    As long as the glue has cured, you are good to go. My rally bodies are covered with Shoe Goo and drywall tape. If you crash hard enough, it'll pull the paint off of the Lexan, but I'm talking about short course style beatings, not fun running.
  11. Big Jon

    The Cool Wheels Thread

    Wow, I had no idea that Tamiya made anything like that! Thanks for sharing these with me. I always thought that the Advance Mini Mags were awesome, but these are another level. My personal favorites are the Lancia wheels.
  12. The XV-01 is my all-time favorite chassis. It's such a peach in real world conditions. When you setup the electronics, if you put the ESC at the front of the radio box, you'll need a 275mm sensor wire. Associated spurs fit the slipper assembly perfectly if you want to use 48p pinions. Aluminum suspension mounts are a must! They fix the only weak area on the car. SSD00151 rod end spacers are an exact fit for the layshaft spacer. The Tamiya CVDs are are much nicer than the Yeah ones. You can remove the steering stop screws from the knuckles with CVDs and gain some steering angle. Long rod ends on the shocks seems to cause more problems than it solves. The kit setup is very good. 13.5 is "just right" for me. Plenty of controllable poop, not too fast or too slow.
  13. Big Jon

    Newbie introduction

    All this talk about stick transmitters... The Futaba 4GRS has excellent ergonomics and capability. It's essentially a 4PLS in a stick format. Either transmitter is worth the lettuce. Why are stick transmitters so popular in the UK?
  14. Big Jon

    Top Force vs Super Astute

    I'm building a Super Astute right now, and it's a real peach. It has some very interesting design features that are making the build a pleasure, it was nicely boxed, the components are (mostly) attractive. It's a better thought out buggy than the Top Force, and of a higher quality standard. I've never built a Top Force, but have done plenty of TA01/02s. That said, the Top Force in box art is smashing, and I'm still kicking myself for missing the re-release. I won't miss it next time, or if Mr. T does an Evo. Off topic a bit, but I'd really like to see MS versions of re-release, like a full option DF02, or a really trick Fox... With all hex hardware, of course.
  15. Big Jon

    anyone heard of Spec-R?

    I've got some Spec-R arms and body mount stiffeners on my MF-01X. Very nice stuff, fit properly, too.
  16. Big Jon

    Yeah Racing 'QUTUS'

    My old Kyosho Platinums were externally adjustable back in the late '80s. The shaft was so thick that there wasn't enough volume compensation with bladders. Really cool idea that didn't work.
  17. Big Jon

    Speedy's FGX EVO 2018 Build Thread

    Excellent build thread. The best I've seen in years... So good that I've ordered an FGX!
  18. Big Jon

    paint opinions

    Tamiya TS for hard bodies, Tamiya PS for Lexan. Spazstix for special colors or airbrush on Lexan, and I also use Model Masters lacquer on hard bodies. I've airbrushed Valejo and Tamiya acrylics on hard bodies, too, and sealed with clear lacquer.
  19. Big Jon

    Ball caps vs Adjusters

    Tamiya just released open top ball cups... Can't remember the part numbers, though. The reinforced cups have been very durable for me, even with rough use.
  20. How about a low cost sensored brushless set up? The Trackstar Stock ESC is excellent, although you'll need the program card, and a 13.5 or so will shove a 2WD SCT around nicely with nice linear power. Sensored brushless is so nice to drive that you'll never want a sensorless system again. I've never had one of those finned can motors, and they seem to be more difficult to find than they were a few years ago. I'd really like them in a 2 pole sensored version for vintage or fun use, where the lower torque/higher RPM would better suit the chassis.
  21. Big Jon

    Which ESC???

    Tamiya ESCs run fine with lipo, they just don't have a low voltage cutoff. I really like Hobbywing 1080 ESCs. They are more adjustable than the 1060, way better looking, come with a program card, and can handle quite a bit of motor. They're cheap, too, although a few bucks more than the 1060. With the Tamiya ESC, I open the case, desolder the orange wire, remove the switch and solder in a shorting bar. Really cleans up the appearance. I only use them with silver cans or Torque Tuned motors, because it gets really hot in Texas! Long story short, I'd use a 1080 in the Hotshot with a GT Tuned or BZ.
  22. I run my Konghead with a 10.5 and 2S LiPo. It's probably a little speedy for a five year old, although I'd consider it to be about right for the chassis. It's fast enough to be challenging to drive,handles small jumps, and is hilarious to watch, especially with four wheel steering on.
  23. Big Jon

    Rally car - TB01 or TT02 Type S?

    The XV-01 really is so good that nothing quite compares. The guys in our group that use the TT02 fight with a lack of steering angle and lack of adjustability, as well as dirt intrusion. I'd look for a DF-03 RA or a TA-02 for a shaft car, and then you won't have to worry about torque steer, either.
  24. Hi, guys. I'm new here; long time enthusiast. I've got a few Tamiyas in my collection: XV01, MF01X, M07, a couple of Blackfeet, G601, WR02, a re-release Super Astute (still in the box), a Dancing Rider... Anyway, I scored a partially built DB01 yesterday, and I've got a few questions. Will the Leonis DB02 body fit? I really prefer the styling over the Durga and Baldre bodies. I've already got the gear diffs. Is there anything else required for light-to-moderate running with 13.5 brushless power, either driveline or chassis? Is the RR/RRR chassis the only one setup for square lipo? Once I get my bits together, I'll do a build thread.
  25. Big Jon

    DB01 Questions/New Here

    Thanks, man! I've already ordered the dual slipper for it, just because I think that it's cool. It's a really neat chassis that I've had a hankering for for a while and waited too long to buy new.