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Big Jon

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Everything posted by Big Jon

  1. For 2WD "racey" buggies, I really like Hobbywing Justock combos with 17.5 or 13.5 motors. Geared correctly, there's plenty of zest to appreciate the chassis without overpowering it, and they're relatively inexpensive, especially considering how well they drive, and they're dead reliable, too. I always use a shorty lipo and low-profile servo for weight distribution and to free up some space. Futaba radios are my choice. The reliability and ergonomics are worth the extra dough, and you can usually find them used to save a few bucks. The 4PL/please is a fantastic choice and does everything you can think of. I use a 4PX (discontinued) that I scored cheap new when the 7PX came out. For buggy bashing tires, the Pro-Line Dirt Hawgs work ok everywhere, Slide Jobs or Hoosiers are good for tarmac and hard pack. There's nothing wrong with very inexpensive electronics, but I've found that speccing my cars appropriately for the chassis type and intended use with quality mid-level components really enhances my enjoyment. It's far too easy to overpower a chassis, which ruins it for me. I often don't enjoy driving other people's cars because of this. Slow/weak servos absolutely ruin high-spec chassis. It's a very common mistake, too.
  2. Cut out the back of the body. You'll be astounded at how much better it is, even on a slow car. Even on 4cell NiMH 12th scale stock, the old TOJ bodies, which were phenomenal, had much more grip and speed when cut. You could even trim the spoiler quite a bit. I'm always surprised that all of the speedy guys don't do it.
  3. I've used Traxxas X-rings in a pinch. No issues to report. I'm sure that they seal better than o-rings, but I've never had leaky CVAs, so...
  4. Very nice Bearhawk! Definitely a forgotten classic, and one of Tamiya's better looking buggies.
  5. How about a Tekin FX-R Pro? It's tiny, looks cool, and drives like a racing ESC with reverse. The Hobbywing 1080 looks way better than the 1060 and performs better, too. It's my brushed ESC of choice.
  6. While I understand the disappointment with the Super Astute - I really wish that the re-release came with decent shocks, real turnbuckles, a full bearing set, etc. - having run mine quite a bit, the buggy is far better than I had expected. As far as I'm concerned, it's a definite keeper.
  7. I'm always dissatisfied when I buy used cars, even if it's a chassis that I really want. Because I'm stupidly anal about weird things that nobody cares about, I always end up spending more than the cost of a NIB kit on replacement parts and hop-ups to make it as close to perfect as I can, or sometimes the project will stall for a long time while I find that one part that I saw once on the internet ten years ago. Then, the car never really hooks me because I didn't build it new from a kit, with all of the experiences of building a new kit. I've also been disappointed with Castle electronics every time, every RTR I've ever bought (which is why I haven't bought a RTR in forever, and won't buy another), and cheap servos. As long as I've been doing this, and as much stuff as I buy, I figure that I'm doing pretty well.
  8. Aha! I use Dean's, not because they are the best possible connectors, but because they are very small. They're polarized, of course. Some of my cars use 4mm bullets, which I prefer from a cleanliness standpoint, even though they aren't polarized. I usually use all black wire, too, strictly for appearance. I get so picky about things that don't really matter.
  9. Be careful with it. The E10s are pretty delicate. Most of them were RTRs with plastic drift tires, and they can't handle any power.
  10. I use 60k in the front, 900 in the rear, 57mm shocks with heavy front and medium rear swaybars. The car is **** near perfect to me, and works well on all surfaces. Stock rear toe.
  11. The M07 doesn't stall in corners like a M05 does, and it's so much nicer to look at. I love them both, but the M07 is better in every way possible.
  12. My G6-01 Konghead is shockingly fun. The build was great with the ten million gears and bearings, and I liked setting up the 4WS. The body is ugly and silly, and somehow suits the truck perfectly. At bash events, it seems like everyone drives it all over and loves it. I'm pretty sure that half the people in Dallas have driven it. The MF-01X has been a real pleasure, too. It's taken plenty of beatings and stayed together well, it's designed well and has a lot of different ways to set up. Just plain fun. XV-01 chassis are my absolute favorite of all time. Immensely flexible, run well on all surfaces, durable, and interesting. The quality is very high, and they are forgiving to drive. It's like the chassis for the man who really appreciates RC.
  13. The steering rock shield is genius. Tamiya should make that part and include it in the rally kits. Nice garage, too.
  14. Very cool builds! I really dig the rally and drift builds. I've gotta ask, though. As nicely as you solder, and as clean as your wire management is, why do you use those huge red bullet connectors?
  15. That's a lot of power! Any common bolt-on 48p spur will fit. I'm really not sure about the pull under acceleration. One of the reasons I like mine so much is how straight it goes. How's the side-to-side balance?
  16. "Best" is so tough to determine. I use an ISDT 1000 watt DC charger, and it's perfect for me- it has huge power, so it charges big batteries fast, and has a 2.2 amp balancing circuit, so it's even faster. It's also expensive (especially with the power supply), requires you to make your own leads, etc. The Hitec X1 AC Pro is a great choice. It's got 100 watts, which isn't huge, but is adequate for most applications, is dead reliable, charges everything including LiHV, and isn't terribly expensive. If you want to charge two batteries at the same time, grab a Hitec X2 Plus. I'd skip the very inexpensive chargers available online. One battery costs more than the potential savings, and I definitely don't want to lose the house over a cheap charger.
  17. Ugh. You characters have me wishing for a Sonic Fighter re-release! The restorations you've done look so much better than I remember them. Have either of you posted driving video?
  18. I'm liking the plastics and general "Tamiya-ness" of this kit; however, I hate the body choice and continued use of JIS screws. I'd like a Bowler body. It would really suit this chassis well, especially with the diffs unlocked and a mild motor upgrade. I'll probably get one once more body choices are available, or if Tamiya does a "Pro" version without a body set.
  19. I'd like another Thundershot re-release, a Top Force Evo, and although it's not vintage, another DB-01RRR or RR run and an XV01 Pro V2. Another run of the Wild One would be great, too. Not sure if these would be considered to be countering the Ultima, though. I don't think that Tamiya has anything that would compete with the Ultima, anyway. The Scorpion was very different from the SRB; the Ultima was very different from the Fox, Madcap, and Astute. We really need new mid-level buggies from Tamiya- not race cars, but something with better performance, durability, and appearance than the DT02/3 and TT02B. Maybe an M08 based 2WD and a TA07 based 4WD would do the trick. How about an M07 or FF04 based FWD buggy?
  20. The slipper seems to really save the driveline. I built my Pro years ago with the slipper and am still using the original belt with a 13.5t. In stock form, the car handles beautifully, and only gets better with tuning and swaybars. Mine is set up for dirt rally with small jumps, and will traction roll on concrete but not asphalt. Other than the plastic suspension mounts, the chassis doesn't have any weaknesses. Mine has worn out several sets of balls and cups- the blue aluminum balls didn't last long at all, the good steel balls last a long time.. I broke an arm once, and a high speed curb shot broke the chassis. The front layshaft gear spun the pin slot once because the plastic spacer wore out. I've replaced all four arms a few times due to heavy wear from stones, and have worn out a few bumpers, too. Maybe six or seven bodies over the years. My car gets a lot of abuse. Three seasons of rally racing on stony, dusty, wet and muddy courses, general bashing including big jumps on pavement, running on clay and carpet off-road tracks meant for buggies and SCTs, letting anyone who wants to drive, and, as the favorite in my collection, high mileage. I like it enough that I'm considering building a truck variant with long dampers and buggy size tires for heavier use. I think that you'll really enjoy this one. It's easily my all time favorite.
  21. Can you reduce the rear servo's endpoints? I had to reduce mine quite a bit to prevent rubbing.
  22. Did one of these Sonic Fighters come from Texas by any chance? We sold one recently, and I've been wondering where it ended up.
  23. Thanks! 20mm taller should be more than enough for these shocks.
  24. Anyone know how much taller the Fibre-Lyte front Astute Shock tower is over stock? I've got 75mm TRF shocks on my Super Astute, and I'd like the chassis to be able to bottom before the suspension.
  25. A quality digital servo will center better and hold center better, too, while a stiffer servo saver will prevent the vehicle from being knocked off course as easily. I've also seen cheap or worn out transmitters refuse to center. If you have a radio with a bunch of adjustments, you can add some expo, which will make the steering less sensitive near center. This really helps me to go straight, especially with twitchy on road cars. A pinch of toe out improves straight line stability.
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