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Big Jon

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Posts posted by Big Jon


  1. 8 hours ago, smirk-racing said:

    FWIW, the old solution of using aluminum shims for NN4 and removing excess play has been 100% reliable for me over long periods of time with strong brushless systems. I do like this new steel gear but it isn’t strictly necessary and I agree that allowing the pin to stick halfway out of the slot (which is what happens without shimming) is likely to be problematic. 
     

    In short, shimming is cheap, easy and effective and probably still the right solution. The only hard part about shimming is taking the time to order the right shims (thoroughly detailed many times in TC posts including over the last few years so links to vendors should still be good). Also, I recall having to reassemble the gearbox at least 3-4 times as I tested the right number of shims. I was pretty obsessive about getting it precisely right (down to the level of a .1mm shim). That only took maybe 15-20 min per gearbox though. 

    Agreed. I haven’t had an idler fail since I installed an aluminum spacer, and that was a very, very long time ago.

    • Like 1

  2. Looking at Tamiya’s new releases, I spotted a steel idler for XV-01 and other cars that use similar transmissions like the TD4/2. Although replacing the NN4 spacer with aluminum is cheap and easy, this should be a permanent fix for the drive pin wear on the idler, and the gear is already available.

    Edit: Part number 22087

    • Like 7
    • Thanks 3

  3. I just finished off an XV-02 chassis and have been trying to decide on a body for it. I already have about a million other rally cars in my collection, and I don’t want to do another Lancia, Subaru, etc., so I’ve been thinking about doing something like the old TA-02T, with a Toyota body and BBX tires. 
     

    Anyone try such a thing?

    • Like 1

  4. 58 minutes ago, Kowalski86 said:

    I'm admittedly not sure what makes a "dedicated rally" chassis different from a modified touring car.

    The MST has a nice body, kinda looks like a sturdier Fazer/TT02 underneath.

    The biggest things are increased suspension travel and the ability to have higher ground clearance. The XV suspension, for example, uses TRF 501 and 201 parts.

    The MST uses gullwing suspension arms for ride height, and 60mm shocks for travel, and includes a finished Tamiya bodyset. It’ll smoke a Fazer on rough surfaces.

    • Like 3

  5. You’re both right - Tamiya has consistently flopped with RTRs, at least in the States (not sure elsewhere), the Chinese stuff has gotten a lot better, and young folks aren’t terribly interested in building a slow car when they can grab an Arrma for less. 
     

    My collection covers a pretty wide swath of categories, from scale crawlers to now-outdated race cars. They’re all fairly interesting models, though, and it’s the interesting bits that keep me engaged in the hobby for all these years. If all we had available was high speed skatepark bashers, I would have found something else to do a long time ago.

    • Like 3

  6. The XV-01 is perfect for general street bashing. It’s just such a peach. I cannot seem to adequately express just how good it is as a general purpose car, and even though it’s been around for a decade now, still feels thoroughly modern.

     I’m just finding an XV02, and while it’s a lovely little kit, it’s more off-road focused than the 01. Obviously, the RS will have more of an on-road focus, so it will probably better suit your needs. The standard 01 does fine on rough surfaces. 
     

    The XV chassis are so good on unprepared surfaces that I wouldn’t bother with TA/TB chassis, and the high spec TT chassis won’t perform as well and cost too much.

    • Like 4

  7. 1 hour ago, Kpowell911 said:

    IMO, theyre going to have to get with the times and do a ‘bashing RTR’ if theyre too survive the next decade. Either that or I am massively underestimating the Japanese market

    I think that Tamiya has found their niche with the types of kits they’ve been doing for the past 40 years. I can buy all manner of generic overpowered RC vehicles from just about any online source at rock bottom prices, and they’re all pretty much the same, or I can buy an interesting kit with unique design elements from Tamiya. 
     

    Why would Tamiya bother with attempting to enter a crowded price-driven market that doesn’t have anything to do with their strengths?

    • Like 9

  8. Sounds like you have way too much power. 2WD cars like softer power, so two-pole sensored systems are the way to go. Usually a 17.5 is plenty; a 13.5 would be about as much as I’d want unless you only run on high-grip surfaces. A looser slipper makes driving fast easier, and you’ll be able to tune the brakes with a decent ESC. You’ll be surprised at how little brake you end up with.

    Plenty of focused practice will help a lot - not just ripping up your yard or the street, but concentrating on hitting your marks, noting brake and acceleration zones, and finessing your control inputs. Suspension tuning makes a noticeable difference once you have the right tires, and is an enjoyable rabbit hole. Driving fast with a 2WD is incredibly rewarding, even though it takes a lot of effort. You can go pretty fast with a 4WD with minimal setup or concentration, while going fast with a 2WD requires solid concentration and at least an OK tune. Even something like a DT03 responds to tires, spring and oil changes, ride height adjustments and toe changes, and can be a lot faster than one out of the box.

     

    • Like 3

  9. 2 minutes ago, Marchie said:

    @Jonathon Gillham I'm in Australia, so you're not far off!

     

    @Big Jon You're making a compelling case - I'm going to start looking up reviews of the TD4. It's a shame it looks so ordinary (especially those hubs over the front wheels, what's with that?)

    Ordinary?!? The thing is about as unique as it gets, and dog ugly! I scored a Revive RC body for mine and left the fenders off, much better. I kept waiting for the body to grow on me, instead it kept looking worse. Tamiya sure did miss on that one. Brilliant chassis, though.


  10. On 1/20/2024 at 3:53 AM, ChrisRx718 said:

    There's no way they engineered and tooled a model that concise without the intention of releasing it to a much wider audience.

    Looks really cool. I like how the body attaches with hidden clips, it all seems very well thought out. Agree with the sentiment that it needs a driver figure though! 

    Although I have no way of knowing any specifics about the Snap-On/Traxxas agreement vis-a-vis future production, I do know that Snap-On pays Traxxas for all costs associated with Snap-On proprietary product, including R&D. As long as Traxxas bid the job correctly, there’s not a dime of Traxxas money spent; Snap-On is buying Traxxas infrastructure and brand recognition.

    • Like 1

  11. The TD4 has the perfect balance of vintage Tamiya eccentricity and modern materials, design, and performance. Shame about the body.

    It (and the TD2 and BBX) is the chassis Tamiya fans have been begging for - a modern classic with all of the things we love about Tamiya, and lacking most of the annoyances . Modern reinforced plastics, hex hardware, full bearings, excellent DB01 based suspension, excellent durability and performance. It’s very, very Tamiya. 

    • Like 1

  12. On 11/23/2023 at 11:57 PM, skom25 said:

    Some spares and Hop Ups arrived.

    IMG-20231124-063547082.jpg

    - Spare Belt

    - Spare Spur 68T ( the same as for TT-02B which I already have)

    - 3x6 Aluminium Screws

    - VG Shocks Grease

    - 18T Pulleys

    Why I bought belt and spur, probably I do not have to explain.

    Aluminium bolts I will use only in places which are not under load, like e.g. covers.

    VG Grease because I just want to try it. I have three pairs of shocks to build/ rebuild.

    Pulleys. I found that Pulleys from kit have quite sharp edges. I decided to buy "upgraded" version. Two sets cost almost four times less than one set of aluminium.

    Finally NN4 spacers arrived. I bought them from company/ brand goBilda. They are aluminium. Maybe quality is not perfect but dimensions are correct and were quite cheap.

    Because I have mentioned spacers, I can start with gearbox build. As previously, probably it will take some time. Additionally, I have some plans related to TT-02B.

    Any Tips how to remove play from Idle Gear Shaft with NN4 spacer? My first idea is to build stock, put into gearbox and check play ( without screwing together). Then add spacer and do it again. Is this good plan or I missed something?

    Probably I will leave some play, because my experience shows that when everything is screwed together, play is reduced significantly.

    When I build gearboxes, I shim each gear individually if possible, screwing together the housing to check play, The XV is nice, because each shaft sticks out of the housing , making it much easier to check the assembly.

    If you come across the carbon reinforced knuckle, snap em up. The last time I saw a set in stock, Ultimate RC was still a big thing. I bought a set in ‘15 or so. I’m currently using modified TRF 501 12 degree aluminum knuckles.


  13. It’s a really nice build stock. If you’re planning on running it in anger, I’d recommend CVDs all around, aluminum suspension mounts, aluminum hexes, and reinforced adjusters (ball cups). The aluminum NN4 spacer is only really necessary with higher power as long as the transmission is assembled correctly. I have a fairly detailed build thread floating around in “The Builds”, although my XV sees very rough use with a pretty strong 13.5.

    • Like 2

  14. 13 hours ago, OoALEJOoO said:

    I'm glad Tamiya is further supporting the TC-01 but unfortunately, I am quite underwhelmed by re-releasing the Mercedes CLK after it was just made available on the TT-01E.

    I was really hoping for a new body, something with a low profile enabled by the TC-01. Tamiya has a Porsche license, why not invest a little bit and release a 917k? It would have been fantastic with livery stickers, but even a plain white one would have been an instant-buy (maybe would have bought 2), given the 917k liveries would be easy to custom-make.

    I want a 917-30 so badly. I’m old enough that the TOJ was the 1/12 body of choice when I started carpet racing.

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