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Gazebo

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About Gazebo

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  1. Great and informative posts here. I was pleasantly surprised to find out that there is now the new and supposedly improved version of 53926 available titled as 54993 TT-02B/Df-03 Alu Damper Set. Even better, it is priced lower than the previous version in some shops.
  2. Tamiya actually uses mostly JIS screws (Japan Industrial Standard, idenfied by a small dot on the screw head). With Phillips or Pozidriv you risk damaging the screws. The official RC Tool Set is great and can be often found on at very sensible price https://www.tamiya.com/english/products/74085tool_set/index.htm I can't say about Traxxas tools but MIP hex drivers especially are considered the best available.
  3. I believe Tamiya is little special once again when it comes to the red color of the gel type threadlock, it is nowhere near as strong as the red stuff from other manufacturers. Anyhow, as the gear box is pretty much only metal, a real "permanent" red threadlock could be used and removed by heat (gas torch) later if needed.
  4. I am about to start building my own TXT-2 this spring. As I try to strategize my collection and have cars for different use cases I am planning the following with the TXT-2: - make it as fun as possible to run on gravel (roughly 0/16mm) with some man made obstacles like small jumps and what not. I have lot of sport fields with gravel around here but suprisingly few RC cars perform well on those. Either the wheels are too small, the driveline gets destroyed by flying stones and sand or what not. - 4WS absolutely, just to try it out, can anyhow adjust it as I like with the radio and different profiles where it is enabled/disabled - keep motor stock, keep upgrade path open to a single brushless motor but likely use my 3S batteries on with the silver cans if the batteries can fit - possibly most importantly, install a sound module! - keep an eye on Losi LMT spares once they are widely available if there is nice option for a robust center drive shaft replacement. If not proceed with the Traxxas 5451X driveshaft option
  5. Hello. It looks like the ESC is connected to the receiver in wrong way. The connector can sometimes be attached in two orientations. The right orientation is where the black wire (or darkest wire) is closest to the edge of the receiver.
  6. As it happens I have trying to source the very same parts and also the front and rear suspension mounts. I eventually found proper items but also found out something that might be of interest: Front suspension mount of DB01RRR is released in blue as 47311. The rear mount as 47312. I am not sure if these fit the pre-DB01RR chassis. They do have slightly different skid/toe-in. These items however does not seem to available in western countries at all but found in many Chinese or Korean RC shops for example (that refuse to ship abroad or are impossibly to navigate without knowing the language). The front suspension mount alternative by GPM is still found in many places with product code GPM DB008. This likely be found repacked under Carson brand as 500530503 or by eRacingPro.
  7. To add to the great previous reply the easy way to understand boost and turbo is that while both are dynamically applied increased timings (more power but lower efficiency), boost starts at a specific RPM while turbo starts at maximum throttle after a defined delay. In other words boost can be used to compensate otherwise not powerful enough motor while turbo is used to achieve higher top speed in long straight sections. Generally a 3000kV 13.5T motor is quite powerful enough for a buggy like Zahhak. Hence I would absolutely keep boost disabled (timing at 0 degress) but if wishing for higher top speed, start experimenting with turbo of 10 degress. All that said, before tinkering with boost/turbo, you should try to find gearing ratio most suitable for your driving style and location.
  8. I can't really speed for the reliability of the Savox other than it has replacement gear sets readily available. Because of that, I would not worry too much about its life cycle. Anyway, I am rather familiar with Futaba's servo line and the cheapest current low profile servo, S9570SV, is almost twice the price of the Savox at roughly 100 euros.
  9. There are some items they have available in UK warehouse like DS3225 servo. Anyhow, even if shipping from China, for orders in EU you can actually choose EU priority line shipping option that somehow circumvents customs and they even promise that if you are required to pay customs or VAT, they will compensate it. Tried it twice, worked both times (no customs).
  10. That statement might also have something to do with the variations of rear gear box molds on DF-01. If I understood correctly, the original versions could not fit high speed gear set and maybe for some obscure reason neither this full plastic gear. The newer version with the H-stamp are to my understanding totally similar to what was/is used in the on-road chassis based on DF-01.
  11. To my understanding most people yours truly included use cyanoacrylate super glue to attach the outdrives to the diff. Just construct the ball diff first without glue and once ready, install bearings and finally glue. Be careful not to glue the bearings to the shaft. Without gluing, there is a tendency for the diff outdrives to move just enough for the spines to get destroyed.
  12. Hi. I just would like to encourage you not to give up on Dremel just yet. I find it totally irreplaceable when it comes to finishing polycarbonite bodies. I start with scissors (both straigth and curved) but only cutting to the final line if its easy enough to cut very accurately. Otherwise I leave a few millimeter extra. The second step is drilling holes with specialized reamer like this https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/tools/rc-car-body-reamer/ (there are more economic versions available). The reamer is also used when cutting end points for rounded rectangles. The third step is the Dremel work. I mostly use the sanding bands attached to the rubber drum. The larger band preferable but some smaller parts require the smaller drum. I use roughly half rotational speed and move the sanding band on body edge quite fast and as long way as possible each time. I keep the band in angle (just not 90 degrees) to the edge and keep switching from side to side to keep the annoying "melt" plastic flash in minimum. I have not had big issues with the protective film peeling off but anyhow in such cases masking tape fixes any problems easily. The top edge of the sanding band can be used to create neat 90 degree angles in locations where scissors are not an option. The abrasive cutting wheels can be used finishing the rounded rectangles. Just go very careful with the wheels and also keep eye on the Dremel's socket itself does not accidentally touch the body when working very close to the body. The fourth step is sanding all the edges to more smooth finish and removing the flash from Dremel work with 400 grit paper. You can go very easy with sanding, just 3-5 swipes should be enough for perfect edge. Please see the attached picture for something that's next to impossible achive without Dremel or similar power tool.
  13. Hi, mostly stator that defines the rotational speed. Many motors of variable turn values and KV ratings use the very same rotor part to prove the point.
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