Wongataa

Model railway stuff is zero rated for duty. VAT is still applicable. https://www.trade-tariff.service.gov.uk/commodities/9503003000 You can look up the UK import/export duty for everything here: https://www.trade-tariff.service.gov.uk/sections

If you are in the EU or UK there will be no duty etc to pay if shipped from somewhere in the EU. The rules for the UK may change at the end of the year.

I got a fully programmable radio with more than 4 channels when I bought my RC tank. I did it so I can map functions to switches so I don't have to mess about with the stick combos to fire the main gun etc.

4.7% duty & 20% VAT. These rates haven't changed. Remember the shipping costs get taxed as well as the item costs. Add the import duty and then add the VAT onto the price after the import duty has been applied. Whether or not you get charged is not down to the vendor but UK customs. The vendor may not state the true price to try and minimise the tax payable but you shouldn't ask them to do that and customs could always open the package to see what it is and charge what they think is appropriate. It is best to assume you will get charged when pricing up things so if you don't or get charged less than you thought it is a bonus. No VAT or import duty payable under £39 (icludes postage). VAT and no import duty £39-£135 (includes postage). VAT & import duty over £135 (includes postage). If anyone wants to see the import duty and VAT rates for importing any goods check out https://www.trade-tariff.service.gov.uk/sections This is the official government document showing all the rates and which countries they apply to.

With flying radios each stick can move in the x and y axis. Some have the return springs, some don't. You will have to search for each particular set you are looking at to see what may need to be done.

The only modification that may be necessary is to add a return spring to the vertical axis of a stick as the aircraft transmitters can leave this off as the flyers often use it for the throttle control and don't need a reverse. That is all really.

I can't remember to be honest.

I soldered bullet connectors onto the motor - basically just like what it came with, just pointing the other way.

Just get a cheaper flying one. You can use them for cars. I do.

I've done what you wanted to one of these motors. I couldn't use a soldering iron to get the connectors out either. I ended up drilling them out. Then I could solder new connectors onto the motor in the orientation I wanted. The motor works just fine.

I don't think it is really worth the effort. The stock silver can motors will drive the tank fast enough. You would probably have to replace all the electronics with third party ones.

The TA-07 shares a lot of the TRF419. It is the consumer version of the TRF419.

Built from new in the box: Sonic Fighter Bear Hawk M1A2 full option r/c tank TA07 Pro Bought second hand and largely rebuilt: DB-01

I would socket head screws where possible. Next my preference would be for hex head and only then would I use slot/Philips/Pozi/JIS heads if they were the only ones available as I find that it is too easy to damage the heads of slot and cross head screws.

Started rebuilding the diffs on my TA-07 (changing the oil). Replaced the damper stays (broke the front one). Waiting for new turnbuckles (bent one).