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Everything posted by Apexape

  1. It’s also a good idea to let the tension off of the springs by removing the lower shock mount and letting the shock hang or removing the springs.
  2. @ALEXKYRIAK I tried messaging you but I think your inbox is full. It says you can’t receive messages. If you still have the shock tower files and with your permission would I be able to get them so I can order a set from fiberlyte. I failed in spectacular fashion attempting to make my own from a carbon sheet and have modified a set from an old touring car to work for the time being but would really like a set like the ones you designed. Thanks.
  3. I hate to revive an old thread but this car is too cool not to revive lol. @ALEXKYRIAK I sent you a message. I hope to get my own built soon.
  4. Depends on the paint system. It would say in the Material Data Sheet (MDS) or on the can if using rattle cans. It can range from a few hours to 24 hours.
  5. we are not talking about the same thing. I am referring to sanding base coat (color coat) before clear coat. The only reason to sand base coat is if you let it flash out for too long in order for clear coat to properly adhere chemically or because you messed up spraying your base coat and sprayed it too dry or got tons of dirt in it or visible sanding scratches. Either way you would apply more basecoat over before you clear coat because the areas you fixed by sanding will show especially in metallics where the flake orientation will be uneven if you don’t reapply basecoat. now when it comes to wet sanding clear coat before buffing and polishing yes you are right. It gives it a smoother appearance but at the cost of durability. On small scale stuff it’s not a big deal but on a full size car it is. When you wet sand you are removing practically half of the clear coat before buffing and polishing just to get that glass like finish. There is a reason cars from the factory come with orange peel. It’s for durability. as a professional automotive refinisher we are trained to attempt to imitate the way the cars were sprayed in the factory. If you want a durable smooth glass finish your gonna have to apply double the amount of clear coat just to leave enough after sanding for buff and polish. now this is all talk with regards to pro materials and basecoat/clear coat systems. Most hobbyist I’d say use rattle cans. The trick with those is practice distance from object and speed of each pass. Most every clear coat nowadays are of good thickness and have good flow properties. You want your first coat to be a medium wet coat. If it looks only a little dry it’s fine, the next slightly heavier coat will fix it. Don’t try and get rid of dry spots before the clear has flowed out because that’s how you get runs.
  6. You only need to sand base coat before clear if you did not apply the clear within the base coat flash time window. If you let the base coat dry too long it’ll develop a seal so to say over it and the clear coat won’t adhere to it chemically like it’s supposed to.
  7. Good thing about the bigger kimbrough medium servo savers is that they have a spline adapter that goes on the servo first and then you mount the saver on that. It will allow you to make finer mechanical adjustments to get the saver on straight before you start messing with the controller.
  8. Apexape


    Ive got my tt02-s set at 5.9 with a 64t spur and 28t pinion. With the bearings flushed of grease and lubed with bearing oil and a smooth shimmed drivetrain the car is a rocket with the torque tuned motor and coming off the track after 5 min at about 110f
  9. Probably the most complex job ive done to date. The entire livery is paint including the design on the hood. The design was probably the most difficult part. Mix of rattlecan and airbrush
  10. If you are dead set on using the airbrush for a large area then make sure you are using the 0.5mm tip with max airflow. Practice on some cardboard to get distance and speed down. Make sure you do a 50% to 75% overlap. Have a plan so you dont overlap areas too much and cause runs. if you have a dual action brush remember to start the air off the body, start paint right before you hit the body, steady speed and needle control, paint till you are off the body and keep on the air, then make the next pass in the opposite direction. Dont worry about getting full coverage on the first coat. Its better to build them up but do it without spraying too dry. Also work your way from top to bottom. I used to paint cars and airbrush alot now. Alot of the technique still applies. Practice with what ever materials you plan to use first. Color theory is another thing. Use a gray primer in different darkness depending on the color you want to spray. Its alot to explain in a post so if you have a question about that feel free to ask based on the color you want to spray
  11. Thanks for the replies. Ill get to searching
  12. Hi all! I just got done building my re-re SA and was interested in finding some modern aftermarket wheel and tire options that are a direct fit especially in the front since they are bearing fit wheels. I want to keep the stock wheels and tires for the shelf. Has anyone found a set? Ive seen the carson set but not too fond of the look. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance!
  13. I converted my xv01t to a long damper xv01. I bought the front spring set from the trf 501 and used the longer eyelets on all 4 corners with the cva mini shocks from the xv01t and the carbon long damper stays. Super easy conversion and the springs fit perfectly with no need for the clip on spacers to get a good ride height.
  14. Looks like it would take alot more work than finding suitable tires for the wheels you want to use. Do you plan on running these wheels and tires or using them on a shelfer?
  15. In order not to destroy the plastic or put really deep scratches in it i would wet sand with 400 grit. It is going to take a while. You can sand it dry too. Itll be a little faster but scratches will be a little deeper. Then prime really good after a really good cleaning. If you are feeling froggy you can start with 180 and work your way up. The trick is to let the sandpaper do its job and not dig or push into the surface. It will get the paint off exponentially faster but i do not recommend if you are not experienced in auto body repair. The scratches will be very noticable and will take some time and work to get out
  16. Only thing i can really think of is silicone contamination. Like someone mentioned above, where did you spray?
  17. Dumb question but did you completely open up the tack rag and then scrounge it back? Also was the surface completely dry before you tack ragged it. When i used to paint 1:1 that could sometimes cause fish eyes from the tack material. But other than silicone contamination it looks like you probably went pretty heavy on the paint with the solvents releasing mold release agent through the primer.
  18. Ive had pretty good results with a set of skyrc 1/10 set up wheels, a camber gauge and a cutting mat to set up my cars. You can turn the camber gauge on its side and use it adjust toe angle aswell. I line up the chassis with the lines on the cutting mat and go off of that with the gauge.
  19. For some reason the quicrun1060 are all backwards for me no matter how i hook up the motor cables. Just reversing the channel does the trick like stated above.
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