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isomer1

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About isomer1

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  1. Every time I see a bear hawk photo I just get bummed out. I think they're gorgeous, and I like the falcon chassis underneath. But aside from the occasional $400+ kit from Japan I haven't been able to find one. Are there other buggy bodies that come close to that shape that would fit? The blitzer is cool, I just want something closer to the bear hawk design. Any suggestions are appreciated.
  2. I was dying Thundershot parts at the time and put in a yellow GF-01 wheel. Used a bottle of black RIT with a heated stirring bath. Thundershot parts came out just fine but the wheel just never took dye. I didn't take the bath up to boiling (the cheap, heated bath I bought off eBay couldn't get much above 80C). @Problemchild posted a similar attempt with Madbull tires that warped at the higher temps. You might also look at the wheels for the R31House Kart. They come in black, white, and chrome. They're popular on the Japanese forums and available on eBay and RCMart. They're the same size as Tamiya but have slightly less offset, so they'll make the vehicle very slightly wider (~2mm per side). You can also get slick tires for them which look pretty cool. https://www.ebay.com/itm/R31House-Kart-Rims-2pcs-Black-2WD-RC-Cars-On-Road-R31B035/132918194755
  3. I don't think the white ones can be dyed. I think they're the same ABS plastic the yellow dump truck wheels are made from, which don't take dye. Several of us have tried in vain, mine just turned out looking kinda dirty yellow where the stress marks in the plastic take up the dye. Others have posted photos of badly warped attempts. Though if anyone else has done this successfully please share. I believe there are two white variants out there (1) Wild Willy variant - has through holes like the yellow dumptruck (2) Mitsubishi variant - has a solid back wall inside the hub.
  4. I am confused as to how these work. I get the hex to shaft adapter part, but doesn't the rotating wheel turn against the nut? I would think that would cause one side to tighten up while the other loosens - or is it not that big a problem in practice?
  5. My day (and sometimes night and weekend) job is designing prototype lab equipment. A few years ago I started using Stanley compartment organizers (Amazon US link) to keep the parts and pieces for each machine. I like them because: The modular design makes it easy to access. I just grab the small tray for the design step I'm on without carrying the whole container around. The modular design makes it easy to organize on the fly as project needs change. Parts that didn't work just get swapped out to a 'storage' box. The sections come in a variety of sizes, but the overall case dimensions stay the same - making it easy to stack all of the parts for a given project together. The machine shop that builds out my components liked the idea so much they swapped over to the same concept. For bulk items they still have the traditional bins, but when a machinist is on a particular project they can keep all the live bits together. So I kept using them last year when I got back in to RC'ing. Below is my 'GF-01 Dampers & Related' box. I use the same style but with smaller components for screws and related.
  6. A magical package from the UK arrived:
  7. Yeah I dunno. I feel like it's just gone crazy the past 6 months or so. I got back in to the hobby about a year ago now and things weren't bad. But now *every* model from Japan is 2-3x the domestic US market. But thanks to TC I learned about Tamico and e-Kalfakis, and took a chance on RCJAZ. Very happy with all of those.
  8. I too would like to know if this is possible (assuming it doesn't cause the admin too much trouble). I had wondered if I should just make a new ID and resubscribe under that once the current year is up.
  9. Like the progress so far @Problemchild, what brand are you using for the paints?
  10. Did you all know about this? I feel left out of the loop. This is is pretty wonderful: https://www.motor1.com/news/398154/rc-camper-demolition-derby-racing Good video here: /https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9YkuhQJpjhc&feature=youtu.be
  11. Just a heads up, I bought the alloy 3D printed version from Shapeways - it is not the correct dimensions. The center-to-center is 2mm off, causing the pins to sit at an angle and stressing the plastic joint in the rear. The seller has recently updated the plastic version, but from the notes I can't tell if those updates have been applied to the alloy version yet.
  12. I found this a few weeks back in the archives from @TA-Mark, there is a photo from above showing the location: @waterbok has a photo from below on his mod here (he also has the FX10 mod, but you can see the servo position):
  13. FWIW I decided it was just easier to buy the GF01tr (Monster Beetle trail) and put a different body on it. The MB body doesn't really fit well anyway.
  14. I went a little overboard with several GF-01 Heavy Dumps and it's cousin the Heavy Metal. I'll build them out slowly, and run them as long as I can. Then if parts dry up, they enter the quickening, Highlander style. As one falls it's parts live on with the others - until only one remains.
  15. Following up, as best I can tell the components inside the portal are 9803148, Rc Cup Joint: 58660 9803149, Rc Wheel Axle: 58660 9803150, Rc Axle Gear Set: 58660 Then you've got a few bearings and an e-ring to finish up the build.
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