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isomer1

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  1. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CdLHeplYtmI&list=LLNglDX8LXaDlQiU6UswVgrA&index=55&t=0s
  2. Might check out Toyota Land Cruiser take on GF-01, has larger diameter wheels. Also the wt-01 wheels look very good on it (with Monster Beetle tires etc).
  3. All this talk about various models... you know what Tamiya really needs? A working website. Honestly it's 2020 and the main Tamiya website and all of the regional sites are just embarrassing. And what's with the regional distribution model? They're still making parts and distributing them in some regions but pretending they're discontinued in others. Look at the parts comparison between Tamico and tamiyausa.com as an example. And ugh... tamiyausa.com... what a trash heap that place is. They must be running it from a first gen imac in some guys basement. phew.. ok I feel better now. </rant>
  4. I bought one off eBay a few weeks back here in the US. But one of the front knuckles is broken, haven't seen any available yet. I didn't realize until after bidding the KBF tread is wider than the original BF/MB.
  5. The WR02 chassis is crazy fun. But a 2wd jeep will never make sense. Deep in your heart you will know it is wrong, and it will gnaw at you. Then your mind will try to process a 4wd beetle ... and ::POP:: Personally I think the best option is to grab the cheapest GF01 variant you can find, then throw a willy body up top. From examples on the forums it's just a matter of modifying the area under the seats & willy's legs.
  6. Do you guys think this would work out for the full case bodies? Specifically the GF-01 & G6-01? Would you fill the whole body? Then how do you run the motor for that long? Attached it to a DC supply?
  7. @Vanspeed how did you go about shortening the clod chassis? I've only ever seen the racers extend them (often somewhat comically). Your's looks great.
  8. The Hobbyking clerk was mostly wrong. If both motors have 0 timing then sure they'll work fine. But if the timing is nonzero (which is often the case for fancier motors) then they have to be matched, but opposite (like 5 and -5). I don't run a clod so I can't offer much beyond the general theory.
  9. I'm a big fan of Crawler Innovation's CWR-3013 foams, but sadly they, like the Prolines, have been discontinued. Thanks for the recommendation @•Axle
  10. Ahh, I apologize, I didn't look close enough on the phone screen to see the threads were only partial. @Lee76's diagram is the closest thing I see so far.
  11. The 2.76mm is the standard for M3 metric screws. Looks to be machine threads in the photo. The length is typical measured without the cap, so measure the length of the threads only. In the US our fastest option is McMaster-Carr, you can search the website and they'll shop right away. The website is a little daunting at first, but worth the effort. If your have an ACE hardware nearby they're good too for individual screws, plus you can hold the old one right up to compare.
  12. This package arrived from Japan a full month before the scheduled delivery date I thought the tracking info had to be wrong when I got the update on my phone. Packaged quite well all things considered, 4 full layers of tape and bubblewrap gave me quite the struggle. But I won out eventually, and was well pleased with the result. Lo and behold, it's the real thing in 2020:
  13. Great minds think alike! I too am working on a GF-01 (dump truck) build. Something about the small, boxish frame just does it for me.
  14. @•Axle can you elaborate which step screws you mean? I can think of three places: (1) Those funny 3.74mm (or whatever they are) screws that mount the upper suspension arms and shocks on the 'cheaper' models. For those, part 58221 "flanged tube" is excellent. Note: there is a nearly identical flanged tube sold in 5-packs that is not a good fit, it's slightly too big and prevents rotation. (2) The steering knuckles. For those I have no option (3) Some go crazy and get custom step screws for the 3mm rods at the suspension joints. I confess I am part of that some, as I dislike e-rings. I have not found these in titanium. I get them in stainless through McMaster-Carr in the US. That's all that occurs to me.
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