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isomer1

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  1. For the wheels: red, blue, and gold were available. They are extremely hard to find for a reasonable price. They do look gorgeous, but also chip relatively quickly. Another option I've seen proposed (but not tried myself) is to take the chrome rims and paint them with one of Tamiya's transparent colors. That's really all they did with the red/blue/gold ones. It wouldn't cost too much to try and if it works you can make your own replacements when they chip. Technically you also have the option of black and white. The black are fiendishly hard to find. The white are often available on eBay and pop up in Pajero searches. Do check they have the hex rears and not the lunchbox style mounts. I've had a partially built mad bull on the shelf for a good while now. Hopefully others will chime in with suggestions for all the other bits.
  2. Very cool! Wonder if it is the same battery choices etc. Hope we get a supplier in the US
  3. @Dug180 My wheels scrubbed the dampers something awful when I tried that, are you limiting the turn radius? Maybe I just did something weird. Edit: ooh I had the gpm knuckles, the stock plastic knuckles have stops that seem to prevent the scrubbing.
  4. In the midwest US we use Archway Anodizing (sorry I know that's no help for you in the UK) for commercial projects. They do small batch jobs as well. Googling will bring up a few projects (few on tamiyaclub, but several on older forums) about DIY anodizing. The chemicals can be a bit nasty - just don't scrimp on the gloves and ventilation. Two things to be aware of: The stripping of the existing color does remove a *very* thin layer of the material. In industrial applications we use plastic plugs to protect critical screw holes. I've never heard of this being a problem at the hobbyist level but the plugs are quite cheap if you want to try (from a supplier like McMaster-Carr etc.). It is possible for a piece, either due to poor handling or inconsistencies in the underlying metal, to be irreparably damaged by the anodizing process. The current is high enough that it can burn away portions of the piece. Again I've not seen this on the hobbyist level but we occasionally lose pieces at work. Shops generally will *not* cover the costs of a replacement piece, it is considered a risk of the process. It's on the long list of things I want to do but never get around to. Personally I'd pay to have it done, but kudos if you go the DIY route. Either way I hope you go for it and post photos to the forums, it would open up a lot of fun customization options.
  5. AFAIK @MadInventor is correct. The Hobbywing docs show the forward as 60A forward and 30A reverse for both the 1060 and 860 dual-motor. https://hobbywing.com/products/enpdf/QuicRunWP1625-WP860-WP1060.pdf
  6. I can't figure out who the target market is for this, but I'm glad you guys are excited about it.
  7. It seems to have exploded this week. There are are several postings for absurdly low-priced kits, all from new sellers, all from HK.
  8. I don't see the debate here - you obviously need both. Perhaps more than one of each. I love both, honestly you won't go wrong either way - just plan out how you plan to upgrade and/or repair them: Lunchbox - you'll probably break those body mounts pretty quickly. I like the metal upgrades available on eBay etc. I have not used the polycarb body but they look almost as good as the hardbody and make it less top heavy. Monster Beetle - you'll need to upgrade or brace the rear diff. If it gets heavy use the stock diff will start to slip, increasing wear, ultimately making it undrivable until repaired/upgraded. If you are searching for lunchbox parts/pieces remember to search for 'CW-01' so you get more results. If you are searching for Monster Beetle parts/pieces you can look for 'ORV/Frog/Brat/Blackfoot', *most* of those parts will be compatible. Obviously you can always ask on these forums if you're unsure of a particular part.
  9. As best I can tell it's a reasonably common mod in Japan. Only seen it a few times on the forums outside of Japan though (though maybe that's me just missing the posts). Here is a video showing the (positive) results.
  10. oooooooh ok, sorry, running a bit slow today on my end. Thank you for the clarification.
  11. I'm confused. How do the F103GT uprights get mounted on the DT03/DT02 arms? Or are the arms swapped as well?
  12. When time permits can you post some info on the steering servo? There seems to be an issue where the HV capable servos allow more current than intended, possibly damaging the ESC. I have not had it happen personally, but it has popped up in random threads.
  13. Personally I like brushless & nimh. I don't get the burn-down-the-house-with-lipo roulette that so many seem to enjoy. But I think more to your point (1) a big segment don't understand the strengths of brushed, and I think generally (2) brushless + lipo is the only upgrade some know how to do, so that's what they toss out when they want to contribute. Maybe that's one way to get a silver lining on the situation: they didn't have insight to address your issue, but at least you interested them enough that they wanted to contribute.
  14. @Killajb are those thin strips with the carbon fiber pattern to reinforce the chassis front? Building my first BB soon and wondering about the week/strong points of the chassis.
  15. This thread has retroactively justified my, 'Eh might as well put in on the list', decision when purchasing a DT03 from Tamico. Thank you team
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