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About isomer1

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  1. I use a hot nail. It's a trick my dad taught me when I was a kid and it's worked quite well over the years. Pick a nail with a head larger than the bodypost, hold that in clamping pliers. Heat the head over a flame (we just used the stove), and press through the body. Doesn't need to be glowing or anything, just a few seconds over the flame. The result is a melted edge with no microfractures. It's those microfractures left by most cold tooling that will lead to splitting when the shell is stressed.
  2. Does this hold up under use? Maybe not rock chips etc, but does the flexing/bending cause it to peel?
  3. The parts you made look really good. It'd be cool to see how you sketch and fabricate them if time permits.
  4. My WT-01n Amarok got caught up in the early shipping delays from Covid. Finally arrived just this week after getting shipped by boat from HK to the US. Looking forward to everybody's builds.
  5. Check out parts 54339 and 54338, these are the black versions of the Sand Viper wheels mentioned above.
  6. It's a cool technique. I'd hoped to use it between the halves of the GF-01 chassis but there just isn't enough plastic. Using it on the steering knuckles is a clever idea, usually have a lot of plastic there for strength.
  7. Apparently it is 48.83 MB actually, but close to 50. Under 'My Account' --> 'Attachments'. Admittedly it isn't explained very well. As best I can tell it's become a bit of a rite of passage. Every so often a new member (myself included) will post a baffled message to this same affect.
  8. There is a 50mb cap I believe. Best to reduce file sizes and such if uploading directly. Or many put them up on other filesharing sites.
  9. So jealous you guys can get Tamico right now. US is still off their list.
  10. Dye only works to go darker. Even if they are dyeable, I don't think you'll reach that light of a blue color starting from green. You might reach a dark teal. As to what plastics, yes nylon is very easy, while ABS will typically warp beyond use long before it takes up any appreciable dye. Tamiya is good about marking the large components like chassis with >ABS< marks to determine plastic, but they often leave the sprues unlabeled. It's frustrating. The dye is pretty cheap though, you can try it with some spare plastic bits from the sprue before you subject the real parts to near-boiling temps. For the cloud finish I think using a matte clear on the outside of the body is likely the easiest method.
  11. Thanks for the photos of the main chassis, that confirms the D parts are different from those on the earlier GF01 models. Mostly new additional mounting locations as far as I can tell. Think that means most of the aftermarket shock towers won't fit anymore. Not a huge loss there, but it will complicate some mods.
  12. I know a bunch of good TXT posts have popped up recently from @Mad Ax, @BloodClod, and @Bertros, but I didn't want to sidetrack those threads with these questions. Now I hadn't actually planned to own a TXT-1. This past year I got back into the hobby and kinda half-figured eventually I might end up with an Agrios and do the big wheel swap etc. But @Evoman's showroom popped up in a search leading me to keep an eye out on eBay. By some random chance, shortly thereafter a TXT-1 in good condition turned up with a totally reasonable buy-it-now price. Just over a week later it's on my doorstep. She's in a pretty good shape outside of the expected scrapes on the undercarriage. Appears to be a near stock build with bushings and original can motors. Came with a TEU-106BK ESC and a generic servo on the front steering. From the tape residue on the plates I believe that ESC is an upgrade from the original mechanical speed control. Before starting a rebuild I popped in a FlySky receiver and took it out for a drive around the yard. Which brings me to my first question: 1) It's crazy loud. Like screaming child loud. No way I can drive this around the neighborhood on a regular basis, especially with everybody working from home. I don't want to be that guy. (We already have a dude that drives his 4-wheeler around his backyard in small circles for *hours* , can't be that dude.). From reading forum posts it sounds like these Juggernaut/TXT/etc gearboxes are just noisy in general, but I wondered if anyone had tips to quiet that down. I'm planning on: Single brushless motor in place of the twin brushed setup. The motor I have on hand is a Tekin 412, enclosed for water-resistance so I'm hoping that may cut down on the noise a bit. Full ball bearings (rubber shielded) Non-Tamiya ESC - hoping this will reduce the whine at low speeds. Check pinion mesh - have not procured a replacement pinion yet. 2) Suspension. The previous owner has the right, rear cantilever arm set about 1cm longer than the left. I believe this is to add pre-load to offset the torque-twist. For general bashing about the yard, does it make more sense to convert it over to standard upright shocks? I was toying with the idea of cantilevered up-front for more articulation on approach and upright in the rear to resist twist. Any thoughts on that or other setups? 3) Steering. I wonder if this was fairly disappointing build for the previous owner. The steering is very mushy. The servo saver is quite soft, absorbing all of the turn when the vehicle is at rest. Combine that with only front steering and the vehicle takes a lot of back-and-forth driving for tight turns. Any suggestions on how strong the servos need to be to turn these Clod-sized wheels at rest? Is a servo saver practical on these sized trucks? Is there a better option than the supplied kit version? 4) Wheels & Tires. The kit wheels are in decent shape, just a small chip on one rim that doesn't appear to compromise the wheel. I didn't realize how hard it would be to find spare TXT-1 wheels. My understanding is that Clod wheels fit, but that they're more fragile. Is this accurate? Are the proline tribute wheels a decent alternative? any others stand out as superior? Of all of the above, it's really the noise issue that has me most worried. I don't expect a silent belt-drive etc, but I've got to get it damped a bit if it's going to be a regular runner. Thanks for reading and in advance for any suggestions. Here she is with wheels remounted (please excuse the "covid19-spare-bedroom-buildspace" in the background)
  13. Right now you can't. They've disabled shipping to several countries in their system. I messaged them and they responded that they were overwhelmed with domestic orders and shipping to some countries was not practical. Timetunnel and a few others have done the same thing. Asiatees has a lot in stock, most priced reasonably compared to Tamico. Even with shipping costs they're cheaper than anybody on the US side. There was a brief 2-3 day delay when I placed the order, but the kits arrived 5 days after that. RCMart was a bit slow for a while, but they too are back up to speed. My kit from them arrived within a week.
  14. CR-01 wheels are generally ~120mm, while the G601 (at least the lunchbox variants) are closer to 110mm. AFAIK is limits rear steering but is otherwise doable. Here is a video with CR-01 size tires:
  15. Yeah it's been there from back in the day. AFAIK it's to help absorb the stress on the drivetrain. Wheels slip inside the tires instead of the weak differential ripping itself to bits. I just ran mine as a basher so it didn't matter much... though I guess all MBs are bashers right? If you upgrade to the Thorp or MP diff you could probably get away with gluing. aye, what Re-Bugged said, works as a slip diff
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