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isomer1

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About isomer1

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  1. Yeah I dunno. I feel like it's just gone crazy the past 6 months or so. I got back in to the hobby about a year ago now and things weren't bad. But now *every* model from Japan is 2-3x the domestic US market. But thanks to TC I learned about Tamico and e-Kalfakis, and took a chance on RCJAZ. Very happy with all of those.
  2. I too would like to know if this is possible (assuming it doesn't cause the admin too much trouble). I had wondered if I should just make a new ID and resubscribe under that once the current year is up.
  3. Like the progress so far @Problemchild, what brand are you using for the paints?
  4. Did you all know about this? I feel left out of the loop. This is is pretty wonderful: https://www.motor1.com/news/398154/rc-camper-demolition-derby-racing Good video here: /https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9YkuhQJpjhc&feature=youtu.be
  5. Just a heads up, I bought the alloy 3D printed version from Shapeways - it is not the correct dimensions. The center-to-center is 2mm off, causing the pins to sit at an angle and stressing the plastic joint in the rear. The seller has recently updated the plastic version, but from the notes I can't tell if those updates have been applied to the alloy version yet.
  6. I found this a few weeks back in the archives from @TA-Mark, there is a photo from above showing the location: @waterbok has a photo from below on his mod here (he also has the FX10 mod, but you can see the servo position):
  7. FWIW I decided it was just easier to buy the GF01tr (Monster Beetle trail) and put a different body on it. The MB body doesn't really fit well anyway.
  8. I went a little overboard with several GF-01 Heavy Dumps and it's cousin the Heavy Metal. I'll build them out slowly, and run them as long as I can. Then if parts dry up, they enter the quickening, Highlander style. As one falls it's parts live on with the others - until only one remains.
  9. Following up, as best I can tell the components inside the portal are 9803148, Rc Cup Joint: 58660 9803149, Rc Wheel Axle: 58660 9803150, Rc Axle Gear Set: 58660 Then you've got a few bearings and an e-ring to finish up the build.
  10. The portals were on lockdown for a while, I couldn't find them anywhere except as part of the Dynahead. After the GF-01tr they seem to be more willing to sell the components. The body of the portal is: ITEM# 9115480 RC R PARTS: 58660 https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/7-digit-spare-parts/rc-r-parts-58660/ The gears I believe are all included in the 'B' bag (but double-check this). See attached the diagrams from the Dynahead manual:
  11. The more I look at it, I think it might have minor changes to the GF-01 chassis. Nothing on my models matches that front area just above the bumper in the GF01cb pics. There are four unused mounting points. I've squinted and squinted but it really doesn't look like an additional piece, but rather part of the chassis itself. Then in the back, just below the rear mount of the GF01 chassis, this GF01cb appears to have a screw hole near where the antenna arm connects. I can match up the most of the holes to the GF01, but then the GF01cb parts have extra screws (that don't appear to match the WR02cb parts). Or I've just been staring at photos too long Good photo of the rear section: https://tamiyablog.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/20200129_093158_tamiyablog.jpg Sideways photo of the front: https://tamiyablog.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/01/wp-1580293854058.jpg
  12. re: patent issues IANAL and all that, but as far as I know Japanese patent is for 20 years. After that the idea/design become public domain. That's a good thing - it allows continued use when a product is orphaned and gives the originator 20 years to recoup their investment and generate profit. I am under the impression that TBG only produces bodies outside the 20 year window. re: the original post MCI I have no experience with. TBG bodies aren't perfect but they're good to decent depending on the model. They can miss fine details and vary a bit at openings (like for the mechanical speed control resistor) or deep indentations (thundershot front mount). To date I've purchased several thundershot bodies, as well as a Marui Ninja and Hirobo Alien.
  13. (thought I mislabeled the variable, all is good, ignore this followup)
  14. I pulled up @mastino's first image in Matlab. Granted there will be some artifacts because it's a real world image, but he got a good top-down image without much distortion. And taking the photo with the ruler was key. Measured the the ruler twice and took an average to get: >> mmPerPixel = mean([(170/701.11) 170/712.02]) mmPerPixel = 0.2406 Then from that (using the measurements from the image) define: >> shortTube = 186.65; >> midTube = 250.18; >> longTube = 254.07; And from that calculate: >> shortTubeMm = shortTube * mmPerPixel shortTubeMm = 44.9108 >> midTubeMm = midTube * mmPerPixel midTubeMm = 60.1971 >> longTubeMm = longTube * mmPerPixel longTubeMm = 61.1331 Those numbers look about right. Cheers to @mastino for the images illustrating his process.
  15. one minor note: TamiyaUSA have extended their inventory downtime to January 13th (old end date was January 8th)
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