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jonny_bravo

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Posts posted by jonny_bravo

  1. I had exactly the same problem with the Ranger i am restoring (would be finished now if the spray job hadnt gone wrong [:(]) I actually cut a piece from the old tailgate (i had to replace it due to no rear lights) glued it inplace then built up the surface with thin layers of putty, took me ages though and although i admit its not quite perfect im happy thats its gonna look fine when the bodys painted and decal'd up.[8D]

  2. Ok i got the body sprayed today,.. gave it around 7 thin coats of paint,. the coverage is great, but the finish isnt smooth but i guess that can be expected?,. im thinking that leaving it for a week and then using rubbing compound is the next step?,.(ive got some Farracle G4 stuff)

  3. Wow!,. thats a cool looking Blackfoot you've got there!,.. another question now though, did you use tamiya paint markers on the raised 'FORD' bit on the tailgate??,..the lettering on the front looks even more worrying[:0] i see youve made a good job of it,. did you mask at all?

  4. I want to try and get a really nice finish on my old Ranger shell,. the hardest part i find is trying not to rush[:)] after six weeks the shell is all filled sanded + primed with Halfords platic primer and has been sanded smooth with 1200 grit wet n dry paper, i am using Hycote Vauxhall Aruba blue for the colour but want to know if the blue should be flatted down before i consider clear-coating it? (also am i ok to decal the shell before clearcoating?)

    Any extra tips/advice appreciated[:D]

  5. Ok,. i am wincing everytime the Technigold that came in my Blackfoot kicks in[:0] ,.. i would like to buy a standard 540 motor to stick in it instead,. i reckon the technigold will be better in my Boomerang! ,.. doesnt have to be new, as long as it works and its got wires etc,.

    Cheers

    Jon

  6. All of you have a good time!., hope the weather stays good,.. what am i doing?,. sat at work[:(]!,. been here since 8pm last night[|)],. programs have crashed so i wont get out till around 1pm this afternoon[B)] ,..ahh well overtime at nightshift rate[:P]

    Anyone know of any IT jobs in notts area????[:D]

  7. Right, its finally time to think about painting my shell for my Ranger resto project[:)]

    Thing is i have never sprayed a shell before, how many cans of Tamiya spray will i need? ,. i dont want to run out whilst doing the job!,. i had also thought about using 1:1 car spray cans,. any pros/cons with doing this?

    Also is it advisable to primer the shell?,.i dont want to hide any of the small details on the shell.

    Your comments are appreciated! cheers [8D]

  8. I took a few bits to the local tip today, went over to the scrap metal skip too chuck in a load of stuff,..back of the skip had been opened to be emptied,. i spy a familiar looking yellow wheel + chunky tyre combo[:P],.. dragged it out the muck to find it was attached to a Blackfoot chassis complete with other wheels and technigold motor[8D]!!! ,.. got it for 2 quid[:)], got it home,. removed the t.gold,. jetwashed the rest (absolutely filthy it was) and its in really good nick,. i think its been ballraced as well! ,... whats the chances of the gearbox needing overhauling after the t.golds grunt??,... gonna make it a resto project anyway!![:D]

  9. Well,..a 1:20 scale 935 turbo,...picked up for a boot sale,.

    My heart stopped when i spied the tamiya box[:P] ,.. then realised it was too small to be R/C[V]

    Plus when i gets it home i find the body is snapped in two!,. everything else is there though (dated 1978) including a small motor to motorise the thing,.is it worth me building it?,.(body will go back together (windscreen pillar missing though) ) If not i may just stick it on the bay [;)]

  10. Has anyone got a battered/broken donor shell for the Ranger or Blackfoot??,..i dont even need the complete shell,.the bit thats broken on mine is the lower section of the L/H front wheelarch (where the front grill bolts onto),.. i am going to have a go at making my own section and splicing it in, but i thought id give this a go first as it would be easier having the correct contoured plastic to work with[8D]

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