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SupraChrgd82

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About SupraChrgd82

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  • Birthday March 12

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    SoCal
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    RC's, Motorcycles

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  1. The Pro set up sheet is biased toward asphalt more-so than the Sport instruction manual. I initially set mine up as the instructions show, then began adjusting in the direction of the Pro set up sheet. Adjustments did yield better handling, particularly the soft damper oil and removal of the rear sway bar (I run on smooth dusty asphalt). I had not gone the full direction of the Pro sheet, as I had no idea that the upper tie rod mounts could be flipped amongst other adjustments. Here’s my theory - Tamiya M-chassis are directed towards the average person to drive on common substrates such as parking lots. 3racing is a more race-oriented kit geared to people who visit tracks with prepared surfaces, so the baseline is a track set up. In mimicking the set up I observe in the Tamiya kits I have found that the Sport handled a little better with each adjustment. Unless I crash into trash cans; that didn’t help me any.
  2. Yeah, I’m not sure about covering the chassis cut outs either. Mine are left open. Regarding tuning, it sound like we are both running on asphalt. The factory set up is geared more toward carpet (or a smooth high traction surface). Both the Pro and Sport are virtually identical, so that set up sheet is a brilliant place to start. The positions indicated in the sheet are indicative of all the other online tuning guides. I’ll definitely re-fit all the bits on my car to the positions shown in that set up sheet. Thank you, M800STD! https://site.petitrc.com/reglages/RC_HandbookV3-4.pdf
  3. I’m quite interested in seeing your tuning results. My car has never been dialed in completely, just slowly improving. The first M-chassis I drove was the M07R which is absolutely spectacular. It’s very neutral and supremely predictable. It is the basis for which I compare the M4 Sport. In theory the 4wd chassis should be superior, but I’m struggling with it. My M4 currently has YR click-adjustable dampers with Tamiya soft oil, all on the M4 OEM springs and softest setting. The tops are mounted in the furthest inboard holes. The rear sway bar is removed to gain more rear traction, front sway bar has ends all the way out for minimal tension. Tires are Tamiya M-grip, also tried the Tamiya/RIDE SC-36M set. There’s -1 degree camber on all corners and 2 degrees rear toe. The motor is a 17.5t HobbyWing brushless. I’ve replaced most of the steel components with Al and Ti to lighten it up even though it has a NiMH pack. Cornering traction is nominal so I’m continually trying to find more grip on the asphalt. Oversteer is somewhat inconsistent as is rear kick out. Quite eager to hear of every else’s trials and tribulations with the M4….
  4. It's not disdain on my part. I could say that reliable electronics are my means to prevent crashing an already aging car, but I admit that I have become spoiled by glitch free radio gear and fully proportional speed controls. I do still use only NiMH batteries, if that's worth any redemption...
  5. Had one about the time they were new. It was a joy to drive, particularly the Porsche with a rear motor. I sent a photo to TamiyaUSA and won Reader’s Rides one month. The prize was pink cable ties and some giant Tamiya decals that Mongoose now owns.
  6. The first round of goods received for an Element Knightrunner build...
  7. I believe SAK-U421/V3 is the direct aluminum replacement for the center pulleys, as they are the parts used on the M4 Pro model. I couldn't say if the change to alloy over plastic is worth the increase of rotating weight. Regarding the stripped carrier, you may be able to add a thin coat of epoxy to add material back to the hole. There's no load on the screw, so it's not too critical that it snugs up tight; it just has to prevent the carrier from rotating. That's one component I was waiting for in alloy. About a year ago they had their parts page with a "coming soon" description for aluminum carriers for one of the Sakura cars that would also fit our M4's. I just noticed that 3racing updated their website. Cross-referencing parts will be more challenging now. From what I had found, they have roughly 3-4 designs used in the touring cars, with different combinations of those designs used in various models. If you need other part interchangeability info, I can reference my ebay purchases for P/N's.
  8. Spool the front, diff the rear. And be very gentle with the tiny bolts that hold the bearing carriers, hey are easy to strip.
  9. Fun cars, they are. The plastics are a bit brittle; I suggest purchasing parts SAK-M4P17 and SAK-M4P18. If it will be driven outdoors on asphalt, it would also benefit you to look for the softest damper springs you can find to increase traction.
  10. If I am not mistaken, the plastic is ABS. ABS pipe cement for plumbing can be used to build up the material. I had repaired my childhood Hornet several times using ABS pipe cement by adding pipe shavings to the cement and filling the damaged parts with the mix...
  11. The bluing on the header is spectacular. Can you describe your process?
  12. The Sup’ family went to Big Bear For the week for some sledding and snow crawling. My 6yr old son sledded into another kid, epically wiping out the kid. Proud dad here… On the way back we stopped to visit the crawling compound of YouTube user “drisotope”. He has turned his backyard into the most extraordinary crawl haven I have ever seen. https://youtube.com/c/drisotope
  13. That a downer. My whole family got it last year. Amazing how transmissible it is. Keep positive air pressure in the uninfected portion of the house and your window cracked open so they stay healthy. Hope you heal well and fast.
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