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About SupraChrgd82

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  • Birthday March 12

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    RC's, Motorcycles

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  1. Each diff type has its attributes. Some additional considerations in selecting the diff; the ball diff also functions as a slipper clutch when properly adjusted ball diff is easy to adjust metal spider gears in the oil diff are stronger than plastic spider gears aluminum outdrives are a good way to reduce weight over steel outdrives aluminum outdrives use plastic cushions on the dogbone requiring periodic changout plastic outdrives break in most crashes oil diff will stay buttery smooth longer due to being sealed away from dust/grit a spool up front may be desirable Evaluate your driving style and driving surface to make a selection that suits your needs.
  2. Likely depends how shredded the holes are from past screw replacement. If you're the type that's adamant about finding the same thread each time the tapping screw is replaced, there should be enough "meat" left in the holes for the new M3 screws to bite into without stripping. I just swapped the tapping screws in a 1986 Hornet and the wife's 1.9 Wraith without stripping any. I was gentle with the 'driver and watched closely for the screw heads to seat against the mating surface to assure a succesful swap.
  3. Cover shipping and any of these are yours. Futaba radio with about 1 month of use RX+TX+S3003 -1st dibs to Finnsllc Hornet outer rear wheel caps Radio xtal 3racing slicks for M-Chassis (best suited for carpet) -1st dibs to 67camaroSS Hornet rear wheels - 1st dibs to Finnsllc
  4. A center diff with both outputs on the same side??? Wow!
  5. A higher percentage of nitro will yield 3 things; more power, more heat, and increased wear. 10% nitro is regarded as the "middle ground", by not placing excessive strain on the engine. The "nitro" prefix refers to nitric acid which has additional oxygen molecules supporting combustion in the way that nitrous oxide is used as a power adder in automobiles. Don't use alcohols following use, as it can be corrosive and washes away lubricating oils. Do use alcohols to sporadically wash engine components during rebuild. After-run oil has corrosion inhibitors and coats metal parts from coming to contact with oxygen and moisture in the air that can contribute to oxidation. Regarding tuning, you'll be looking for 2 things during acceleration; the engine will either shut off or "bog". Those are the primary indicators that the main needle will require adjustment. It is also advisable to fill the fuel tank before it empties during runs. If it empties during a run, the engine will encounter a brief period of lean mixture which is abusive to the piston and con-rod bearings. Although nitro is unpopular today, the TG-10 is a unique car that deserves gentle care.
  6. I love stickers. Load that thing up with decals. It looks like a SEMA truck (independent custom shop) as opposed to a full sponsor SCORE truck. Sponsor decals to that affect would look appropriate.
  7. I suggest: 1) Read several nitro tuning guides to gain an understanding of needle settings. 2) Use 10% nitro fuel rather than 20% to keep the wear-and-tear to a minimum. 3) Use "after run oil" to keep the motor lubricated and oxidation-free between use. 4) Carefully rebuild the pull-start. It can be done easily if you are careful not to allow the spring to uncoil during disassembly.
  8. Cut, painted and decal’d the “budget racer” M car body
  9. Some vintage pin-ups from the Marylin Monroe and WWII era would look great and keep it “tame”
  10. Shaft size (exclusive of the head) is 3.5mm diameter by 7mm length with a manual read. The battery died in my calipers and my eyes are aging like milk. I tested in a battery with 4mm bullet connectors - the Tamiya connector was super loose in the battery. Heck, it could even be 3mm. I'm so useless. *I edited my previous post so as not to mislead with the 4mm false statement.
  11. @toyolien I will have confirmation posted in about 5hrs when I'm home from work.
  12. Fuchs wheels are back in stock for Tamiya USA! I’m hoarding a few
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