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SupraChrgd82

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About SupraChrgd82

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  • Birthday March 12

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    suprachrgd82
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    Ducatipilot02

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  • Location
    SoCal
  • Interests
    RC's, Motorcycles

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  1. It keeps us off the streets. (None of us are bodied up enough to “supplement our income”).
  2. Excellent choice! Savox makes great servos and offers replacement bits if you get a little too aggressive with it.
  3. Fit the new body and wheels on my daughter’s rig. Kids say the craziest things, “Daddy, I want a Holmes Revolver motor”, “Daddy, I want a Proline Cliffhanger that looks like Andy McMillin’s truck”, Daddy, I want Hyrax tires”, “Daddy, adjust the ramp on my throttle curve”…..
  4. PLBTF is this weekend.... Event Calendar (prolineracing.com)
  5. Don’t use “Frog Tape”. Plain ol’ masking or pinstriping tape leaves finer edges.
  6. I suggest staying away from automotive oils for RC's. Not only do oils contain hydrocarbons that can degrade plastics, they contain detergents and friction enhancers that can further damage plastics. I can confirm that wheel bearing grease will cause Hornet gearboxes to become brittle....
  7. I suggest avoiding cyanoacrylate glue. It is hard and brittle when it cures, not to mention leaves a hazy residue that is quite ugly. If you have already stripped or compromised the holes, it would be wise to replace the plastic component, however Tamiya does often use ABS plastic for chassis components. It is somewhat reparable with black ABS cement (found at a hardware store for black sewer pipe). For good holes without compromised threads, a simple switch from self-tapping to machine threads is a seamless transition. If there is a deep concern about threading, a tapered tap can be used to start a new fine thread (only partially inserted so as not to remove too much material deep in the hole). Have a look at some of Ampro's videos on youtube. Alberto has a unique method for inserting screws in fresh plastics.
  8. The urge to have a 959 is becoming insatiable to point of loading my cart with an MF01x, hop ups, and TBG body. What are the chances Tamiya will re-re the 959?
  9. I donated a SCX10.2 to a friend and soldered a new style battery connector. The guy at the LHS saw the 4-pin Deans that I still use and said “Wow, haven’t seen those in 30 years!”. I’m old
  10. Interesting….the problem was caused by faulty design of aftermarket parts. I shall add this to the mental troubleshooting checklist. Hope to see pics your completed car running hot laps soon!
  11. I’m thinking aloud here….. That’s a new 2.4gig radio, so I would rule out glitching from outside radio interference. A loose connector may be a possible cause, in addition to the servo. I’ve never seen a servo rotate due to malfunction, only stop rotating due to a malfunction. Damaged teeth on a servo gear can cause erratic behavior. I presume your servo operates smoothly when turned by hand with the battery unplugged to confirm. “Brown out” is possible; the car will refuse to steer when applying the throttle. This often ruled out by adding a “glitch buster” capacitor. One of the first steps in setting up the car is setting the EPA by observing the left/right bump stops on the knuckles and backing down 1 click before max steer is achieved. A binding servo-saver in conjunction with excessive EPA can cause erratic handling. Excessine EPA can also allow dogbones to bind up in steering knuckles. The only thing left I can think of would be loose or binding steering linkages.
  12. What type of servo and transmitter?
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