SupraChrgd82

Well, shoot, I was about to be disappointed that I missed it. Last year they combined it with some sort of RV show but at least there were some big names. Hope it comes back to something resembling what it was years ago.

Wider wheel hexes will help move the wheels out and away from the dampers. I believe the CC-02 comes with 5mm hexes. A 6 or 7mm hex should do the job without being too wide to get a wheel nut on. https://www.ebay.com/itm/385478165130?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=tmtpzcsnq26&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=sorSbd3-T_G&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Yup. The rear is wider than the front. I had an OG Bruiser rear narrowed by thus guy about 20 years ago. http://www.rummy-rc.com/products.html

Polished aluminum sucks - oxidizes and pits too easily.

Yes, and yes. You and I seem to bounce back and forth between the two hobbies/forums, yeah.

Still scratching my other vintage itch

$5-800 for a beater, $2400-ish for one built and in fine condition, $3800-4200 for NIB

My experience - Most non-competition Tamiya kits are sprung for NiMH or LiFe packs. Lightweight LiPo leave the car feeling stiff and prone to loose handling on packed dirt or asphalt. In crawlers, the heavy NiMH packs add needed weight and forward weight bias. They are big and restrict me from using forward motor trannys, but it’s not a detriment to my rigs. I occasionally drive a makeshift parking lot track with friends. They run LiPo (5000 mah) and I run NiMH (3000 mah). They hit low voltage cut off within minutes of my battery being completely drained. My car is not “punchy” at all, but being smooth and steady suits my driving style. My friend’s cars are punchy enough to break traction at will. I leave all 22 on my NiMH packs stored with a full charge. I can drive any RC at will with zero time needed to plan, prep, charge or store batteries. Minimal safety precautions are needed in charging areas, and zero regard is given to battery voltage at any stage of use. I’m obviously a proponent of NiMH…

Black wires on the ESC and servo facing the outside edge of the receiver? ESC channel 2, servo channel 1?

3PV…I use the same radio. Though that complicates the troubleshooting process, it is still highly reliable paired to the TBLE02. First confirm that the radio is set to S-FHSS for the R203Gf and not T-FHSS for the telemetry models.

That’s a helluva dilemma. Despite Traxxas being Traxxas, their electronics are horrible. Factor in the cost of real servos, it’ll be unjustifiable. Though I have little experience with the CC02, the greatest drawback I hear about is the abundance of speed. It needs an ESC with low speed fidelity and some low gears. I’ve found that tiny crawlers roll quickly. Perhaps it’s my old eyeballs and aging reflexes, but they go from creeping up an obstacle to tumbling before I can register what just happened. Big crawlers tip in slow motion. Good for aging eyes and reflexes. Low speed throttle fidelity helps. Regardless, I feel the allure of the CC02 as well. If you’re open to suggestions, Element Enduros are excellent. Buttery smooth drivetrain, plush suspension, good COG from the factory, lots of aftermarket….

Stampede. Yes, completely soul-less and I deeply loathe Traxxas…but reliability and the lack of remorse for broken parts will make vacation more vacation-ish.

Sometimes the chase is more thrilling than the prize. This guy for example. I just had to make a Blazer with rallley wheels and a white topper. No desire to drive it, it just needed to be built that way and I obsessed until it was done. It’s been shelved for years. The idea was more thrilling than the completion.

Good choice for axles. The older AX10 axles are very robust and smooth. Regarding the suspension, I suggest attempting to move the upper damper mounts closer to the center of the chassis or locatingsofter springs. I don’t know what damper pistons are inside or how heavy the battery is. Those are additional factors that will effect how the suspension compresses. Generally monster trucks have supple compliant suspension. For this reason I doubt that thicker damper oil is the direction you would want to go. Damper oil would best be sorted after softening the ride.

Love it! What did you use for the nets?