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Everything posted by SupraChrgd82

  1. What battery and motor are you using? I presume you have exceeded one of the parameters below in red. Tamiya Specs: Special Feature 1 Forward, Reverse, Braking (Reverse function may be disabled) Special Feature 2 Input voltage: 6.6-7.2V Notice: Use of Lithium-Polymer batteries may risk damage and is not recommended. Special Feature 3 Dimensions: 42mmx34mmx25mm Special Feature 4 Max. continuous current: 60A Special Feature 5 Receiver output: 6V/1.5A Special Feature 6 Weight: 50.8grams (including cables) Special Feature 7 Protection systems: overheat, overload, low voltage to 4.8V (LiFe battery only) Note: Does not support LiPo 6.0 voltage cut-off Special Feature 8 Compatible motors: TBLM series (sensored) Sport Tuned brushed motors 540 size over 25T
  2. http://eclecticproducts.com/products/shoe-goo.html https://www.hobbyrecreationproducts.com/collections/spazstix-ultimate-mirror-chrome
  3. Measure the post hole locations at least 5 times to assure they do not line up all "chueco".
  4. Thant's a common question amongst CC-01 owners. A 55-60t motor seems to be the middle ground, depending on the type of terrain you run the truck. http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/tamiya-xc-cc01/387418-cc01-way-way-way-too-fast.html https://www.scale4x4rc.org/forums/showthread.php?t=76068&page=3 There's a few ways to go about it; just use high turn motor, gear reduction and trim the chassis to fit the stock can, gear reduction and short can motor as bolt on option.
  5. If I still had a CC-01, I'd be running the same as you. I prefer NiMH batteries. The stock motor is 27t. A 55-60t will drastically slow it down and extend run times. It's not geared low enough to be a "crawler", but it will be a fun trail truck. If you want to be able to creep with a great deal of control, I suggest the Axial AE-5 ESC, RC4wd gear reduction unit, and a super stubby motor. The stock ESC and the LRP I have are good for trail runners and bashers, but don't offer smooth operation at low RPM. I don't think you would be happy with the LRP. Here's some reasonable deals: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Axial-Tactic-TTX300-3-Channel-2-4ghz-Radio-Transmitter-TR325-3ch-Receiver-TX-RX/142105694707?epid=2238939915&hash=item211628d1f3:g:ZwUAAOSw5cNYh8n1 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dynamite-DYNS2212-ESC-w-Drag-Brake-Axial-SMT10-Cherokee-Bomber-Same-as-AE-5/123795910986?epid=10035000567&hash=item1cd2cfb14a:g:YgwAAOSwRaRc-5Wu
  6. Trim the posts down so the body sits level and about 1/2 inch above it's intended height. If you are really anal-retentive, you can measure the distance between the posts in the same manor a carpenter would measure a doorway; squares, then diagonals. Shine a bright flashlight under the body and look at the top to locate the shadow where the posts are. Mark with a Sharpie. Mark the centerline of the body with a Sharpie and make sure the sharpie marks are equi-distant from the centerline. (I prefer the Dremel to drill the holes surrounded by masking tape to prevent accidental scratches.) Use a small pointed bit to drill pilot holes. Place the body back on the posts to assure the measurements are correct. This is your last chance to make small adjustments. Use a conical bit to drill larger holes. Drill a little at a time, checking frequently that the hole is the correct diameter. Wash off the Sharpie marks with rubbing alcohol on a cotton swab. Note - the Dremel flapwheel is a great bit to make fenders almost perfectly round.
  7. Savox is one of the biggest names in the servo market currently. Good choice. The 0231 is a excellent servo - cost-effective, standard voltage, reasonable torque, waterproof, rebuildable, but about 0.8mm larger than most other servos. Measure the hole it's going to be mounted in to assure it will fit. https://www.savoxusa.com/products/savsw0231mg-waterproof-std-digital The Axial AE-5 is a good waterproof ESC with LiPO and NiMH capability, adjustable dragbrake and great low speed control. RCRLMichael - What motor are you using? What batteries are you using? Where are you located? I have a spare LRP AI Runner waterproof ESC I pulled from my CC-01 years ago. If you are in the ConUS, you can have it for $5+shipping.
  8. DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, splattering it against that freshly-stained heirloom piece you were drying. WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned guitar calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, "Ouch...." ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning pop rivets in their holes until you die of old age. PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters. HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes. VISE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to further round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand. OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub you want the bearing race out of. WHITWORTH SOCKETS: Once used for working on older British cars and motorcycles, they are now used mainly for impersonating that 9/16 or 1/2 socket you've been searching for the last 15 minutes. HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper. EIGHT-FOOT LONG DOUGLAS FIR 2X4: Used for levering an automobile upward off of a trapped hydraulic jack handle. TWEEZERS: A tool for removing wood splinters and wire wheel wires. E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool ten times harder than any known drill bit that snaps off in bolt holes you couldn't use anyway. TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the tensile strength on everything you forgot to disconnect. CRAFTSMAN 1/2 x 16-INCH SCREWDRIVER: A large prybar that inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end opposite the handle. AVIATION METAL SNIPS: See hacksaw. TROUBLE LIGHT: The home mechanic's own tanning booth. Sometimes called a drop light, it is a good source of vitamin D, "the sunshine vitamin," which is not otherwise found under cars at night. Health benefits aside, its main purpose is to consume 40-watt light bulbs at about the same rate that 105-mm howitzer shells might be used during, say, the first few hours of the Battle of the Bulge. More often dark than light, its name is somewhat misleading. PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids and for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads. AIR COMPRESSOR: A machine that takes energy produced in a coal-burning power plant 200 miles away and transforms it into compressed air that travels by hose to a Chicago Pneumatic impact wrench that grips rusty bolts which were last over tightened 50 years ago by someone at Ford, and neatly rounds off their heads. PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part. HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to cut hoses too short. HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts not far from the object we are trying to hit. MECHANIC'S KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while in use. DAMMIT TOOL: Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling "DAMMIT" at the top of your lungs. It is also the next tool that you will need. EXPLETIVE: A balm, also referred to as mechanic's lube, usually applied verbally in hindsight, which somehow eases those pains and indignities following our every deficiency in foresight.
  9. I have not heard of a waterproof receiver, however, Traxxas makes waterproof receiver boxes. Most are less than $15. They are not 100% waterproof, as nothing is, but it will meet your trail needs. Toss in a small desiccant pack from computer parts packaging for extra insurance. https://traxxas.com/products/parts/5624 As for TX/RX I am partial to the Futaba T-3PV. Lots of adjustments, easy to use, supports 10 models. If you need one ridiculously cheap, a factory take-off such as an Axial Tactic from ebay will run $30-60.
  10. I knew you was nuthin' but trouble.....
  11. Where are you located? Tower Hobbies has them with a decent coupon code discount. Do they distrubute to your area?
  12. That mesh material is called "expanded aluminum" or "expanded steel". It can be found in security screen doors, Bondo automotive patch kits (with adhesive backing), some hobby/craft stores, hardware stores, and metal/piping supply shops.
  13. Note the different pairs of motor mounting holes (each pair being 180 degrees opposite one another). I believe these are for different size pinions. The pinion (aluminum gear on the motor) you have is not meshing correctly with the spur (plastic gear in the tranny). Remove the 2 motor bolts and rotate the motor to a different pair of motor mounting holes until the you find that the pinion and spur mesh in a manor that the teeth fit deeper into one another. Do not continue running it in it's current state or it will ruin the spur gear.
  14. Likely Kombucha with an active SCOBY. It metabolized, produced pressure and launched the bottle right off the table. (I clearly live in California to have made up that lot of BS)
  15. I recently purchased an M07R and two M08's. These are my first M Chassis cars, but I have had several touring cars in the past so it's not unfamiliar ground. I also come from the old mentality that RWD is better, but in this case the M07R has changed my mind in the case of on-road RC's. The M07R is a spectacular little car. I do like it much more than the M08. My setup is: 225mm, OEM geometry and fluids, NiMH 6-cell, 17.5t TBLM, aluminum screws, and 60D tires. It handles like a slot car, rarely oversteering; it's very neutral and very grippy. I actually enjoy driving it more than my last touring car (ae TC5). The only "con" I had found is that brushed motors run hot due to lack of airflow, thus I changed mine to a brushless. The only mod I consider "necessary" is a motor heatsink from Tamiya or Yeah Racing. The M08, on the other hand has a similar set-up but with 210mm, 21.5t TBLM and S-grip tires. The rear washes out frequently and is very sensitive to abrupt throttle inputs. I'm still waiting for a front sway bar to arrive, but I'm not confident it will add the rear grip it needs.
  16. Oooooh, those are nice. I had not idea the big T made 2-tone wheels. edit - not found on Tamiya's USA website.
  17. Thank you. The 510 is sitting on a M-08 chassis with a number of of YR hop-ups. I've found that YR's Qutus shocks fitted with TRF X-rings leak.
  18. I have a spare set of front carbon shock mounts for the longer shocks. Yours free if you don't mind covering postage. I might even have a rear. I'll have to check the parts bin. I also have spare OEM re-re shocks, same price.
  19. Fitted TBLM’s in the twins and started on the Datsun body.
  20. It'll definitely work until it doesn't.
  21. I'd like to see more of that M chassis the background
  22. Brake fluid is not odorous. It does have soak for some time and takes a good amount of scrubbing with a toothbrush. The upside is that the risk of damage to the hardbody is negligible.
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