SupraChrgd82

Whoa, dude, did you say that all in one breath?

A tractor truck or High Lift - there’s a LOT of parts to keep you busy for many evenings.

Swapped steel screws and sway bar mounts for aluminum in the 3racing M4 and added an aluminum bumper mount. Put in a Bowhouse steering kit with bump stops and swapped the Integy battery mount for a SOR Graphics mount in order to move the battery 3mm lower in the Element Enduro.

It looks as though they incorporated an abbreviated roof channel of the coveted "Perisopio"

Are those yellow TA02 bits?? Quite anxious to hear if these improve handling of the SRB! I search Youtube frequently to see of anyone posts a before/after of a diff install.

Great video! I had one of those as an adolescent and sadly butchered it. The body looked incredible, so I removed it to sand and paint, thinking it could be placed on a pan car chassis with 2 rear axles. The lighter chassis ran faster without the body, but a broke kid couldn’t feed it’s appetite for C batteries. I pieced together a trailer from other toys to carry D batteries and ran the wires to the chassis for longer run time. I wish I didn’t butcher the truck. That video sure brings back some fond memories.

https://www.tamiya.com/english/rc/rcmanual/58525.pdf https://www.rcmart.com/index.php?route=product/search&search=Wild one

Just about any body will fit. Some will require a change of the wheelbase on the chassis (driveshaft and 4 links). CC-01 wheelbase - which bodies have what wheelbase - Monster Trucks, 4x4, Wheelie Rigs and Crawlers - Tamiyaclub.com

I have nothing useful to contribute regarding "MR vs RR". Having recently been exposed to the M07, M08, and the direct drive Legends, I much prefer FF to MR. Perhaps it is the dusty asphalt on which my friends and I drive, RWD cars are too loose in the rear. However, a McPherson strut RC is a fascinating prospect. I hope to see lots of photos of the build and driving action.

Packing material from motorcycle batteries or electronic devices

Just saw on RCkicks that there’s a Wild One re-re coming as a Jun Watanabe version….

I live near Rosemead, and travel through it on my daily commute. There is no major USPS hub to the best of my knowledge. Packages do get routed through smaller USPS hubs occasionally to make it aboard the right road going truck destined for other local USPS locations. For a shipment to the eastern states, I would expect that it would have left direct from LAX by truck or arrived in New York by plane where the major shipping hubs are located.

I bet the seller used the same tracking number, or fictional tracking numbers, for multiple sales. I suggest getting a refund before the term expires.

Yup. Shoe-Goo

I can’t believe you accepted all that random junk from some weirdo on TamiyaClub

Replaced mangled hypoid bevel gears and bent links on the beater crawler

60D refers to the diameter of the tires. Other manufacturers tires are shorter than 60D, except for the Ride brand sold under Tamiya. I do believe Tamiya needs to name tires properly refraining from the terms “radial” and “reinforced”, using only “belted” and “treaded” when it is applicable. Aside from that, here’s my experience. Since I started in with the M Chassis cars last summer, I have used 4 types of tires. I run on newly laid lightly dusty asphalt, 65 to 78 degrees Fahrenheit, asphalt warm to the touch. 26301 Ride slicks - taller than 60D, arched profile, firm foam, seems like medium to soft natural compound. Grips great on clean asphalt, dust quickly kills grip, taller tire yields slightly more top speed. Allows for crazy camber set ups. 50683 standard Radial 60D tires - these seem like a medium compound, general purpose tire made of a traditional chalky rubbery compound. Tread wear was horrible, grip was between fair and good on the asphalt. 50684 M-Grip Radial 60D tires - slightly better tread wear and grip than 50683 tires, feels like a less chalky rubber than 50683. 54995 S-Grip Radial 60D tires - feels more like silicone than natural rubber, moderately better grip than 50684 (the best of the bunch for my application), sidewall flex is noticeable but not unreasonable even with a heavy NiMH. Tread wear is about the same as 50684.

That’s a great response from Tamiya. I’ll definitely copy - paste - save that in my M notes. Do any of y’all know what Tamiya means by “Radial Tires”?

Absolutely!

All of the “work at home” days from COVID have allowed me to satisfy many RC desires. I want a new kit, but don’t know which one or where to store it. I think I have writer’s RCer’s block….

Keep the silver and add the silver RC Channel suspension arms.

JPL Trailhead? Where are you located? There’s a JPL not far from me, and our local crawler group is looking for fresh blood….

My friends and I race (unprofessionally) RJ Speed Legends cars. They are not good bashers, nor do they grip well on asphalt. The front A-arm assembly is delicate. Callandra rubber slicks yield improved traction, but not much to make it corner well. The slicks also dry and crack if not cared for. The chassis is comparable to pan-car handling on asphalt; the slightest change in throttle/brake will make the tail spin out. It will not keep up with anything that has oil-filled independent suspension. The RJ Speed will however make you a much better driver. You’ll be forced to learn to brake smoothly prior to turning and to control throttle in the curves. It will be a frustrating process to learn that the throttle control is not a on/off switch, but as a driver you will improve drastically. I would not regard it as a “fun car”, but more as a fantastic tool to hone your driving skill.

Aside from the M-Chassis and pan-cars, drift cars are the only rear wheel drive 1/10 cars I’ve seen. It may be worth your efforts to acquire a touring car and remove the front drivetrain to achieve the rwd you’re looking for.

Drove across the country with the fam, from Los Angeles to Green Bay Not all today, but over the past 4 days. Now to see what hobby stores exist in the Green Bay area…..