SupraChrgd82

I think it's easy to say Tamiya doesn't because RC trends vary by region and country. It all depends on how Tamiya sees it; total worldwide sales by kit, interaction with local (Japan) RC groups, social media, relationships with licensing companies, lurking on forums, customer requests, etc. Some insight to what takes place in the Shizuoka "War Room" would certainly be interesting from our perspective.

Tamiya makes 2 different size pivot ball and ball cups. Offhand, I don't know the measurements but swapping ball cups may be ideal to attain a tight fit. I found this out the hard while assisting my friend with his M06 build. Some fit just right, some fit way too tight, and some were sloppy. We went back to the destructions and looked closely only find that we used pivot balls from the wrong parts bag.

Woo hoo!

Agreed. Many of the RCers seem to buy into the Traxxas mentality that faster is better. Tamiya Club members come across as a more realistic crowd that enjoy moderation, scale appeal, performance, safe equipment and recreational use of RC’s. I’m much more at home on this forum than the masses of narrow minded yahoos elsewhere. I do find the efficiency and low maintenance of brushless appealing, but as previously stated, it lacks quirkiness and personality. Cars run for novelty get brushed motors. Those that I run for performance or endurance are fitted with brushless. As far as batteries, 5000mah is 5000mah, regardless of type. The weight advantages and marginally different discharge rates are irrelevant to me. I don’t run wide open all of the time. Most of all, every one of my 23 NiMH packs are stored fully charged; always ready to run on a moments notice, no waiting to run a car and they are charged during convenient hours of my non-RCing time. The way I see it is that I can buy 2 NiMH packs for the price of 1 LiPo which equates to double the runtime and zero special handling to avoid a fire. I’ll never be the last guy to charge while every one waits. Some of my buddies are catching on. The “extra advantage” of their 3.5t motor lands them into walls while my 17.5t keeps tallying laps. Now they think a 10.5 is a more “reasonable” advantage.

Would these be acceptable replacements? https://www.rc-tworks.com/products/te-031 http://jethobby.com/_shop/product/product_detail.php?id=7811

JD Power rates Ford reliability 2 out of 5. There’s likely some bugs they are still working out of it.

Great video! The slow motion rooster tail clips are excellent!

Get both. Make a nice one for you to display, and sell the other. Between the Countach and the Jeep, that's a magnificent start to a prestigious collection.

‘Round here, that’s worth $450-900. What else does this guy have buried in the basement???

Here goes!

Chassis is from an early HPI nitro touring car, most likely RS4. The other is an early Savage roll bar/handle.

That’s a great price!

I believe it’s a Robbe Renegade. Very rare and somewhat obscure. If the price is good, definitely buy it. It’s in great shape and isn’t missing much. Definitely a shelfer, not a runner. I think many Robbe models shared chassis, so finding another battery cover is possible. This one’s sister car is the Robbe Testarossa. If I had to guess a value, I’d say between $200-600.

Are there tabs or flanges on the underside of the accessories?

In my past experience with Chinese clones, I’ve found 2 consistencies. They use low grade materials, and parts dimensions are not identical to the original article. To my friends and I, that meant broken or worn parts had to be replaced with the same clone branded replacement parts. Attempts to “upgrade” using genuine parts would not fit the clone. As a result, I have learned that I should prepare for utter disappointment upon receipt of the Chinese goods and be pleasantly surprised at each aspect of functionality. In the case of the Bruiser, it’s unique in the way that it is easy to fab in other brand scale crawler parts. Ethical questions aside, I think the clone has potential as a runner if one is willing to let it evolve away from a box stock truck.

Tamiya Mini Cooper Reinforced Wheels -1pr (rcmart.com)

Depends on what you want to do with it - Generally I say "get the car that your local hobby store has the most replacement parts for". If you have a fleet of cars and don't mind some down time awaiting orders to come, I think the following would be good choices: Hotshot - nostalgic and iconic Optima - nostalgic, but more durable than a Hotshot Team Associated RC10B74 - fantastic track weapon Kyosho Lazer - simple plain vanilla modern buggy Tekno EB410 - the ultimate in indestructible no motor limit modern buggies

Estimate $17

Ron - Where are you located? Radio brands and availability vary by country. Often times it is cost effective to hop on ebay and purchase a RX/TX/servo/ESC combo that someone has removed from their new RTR vehicle in order to use higher end electronics. Your glitching could be from any number of things. We do live in an age of electronic devices that generate a lot of RF interference that effects the older crystal RX further compounding your issues. Regarding the glitches you are experiencing, there are some things you can do to reduce the undesirable servo behavior with the older crystal TX/RX gear. Capacitors on the motor are a good start. If it is the original motor, it's likely that the caps are enclosed in the motor. To make the best of your current equipment, mount he RX and antenna as far as possible from any batteries, battery wiring, motor wiring and servos. It will pick up interference from those. Assure that the RX antenna is in good condition, not cut to a shorter length, not coiled or bundled in the car. Use the proper antenna tube 25cm (10"). Don't operate the car near walkie talkies, radio transmission devices or overhead electrical lines.

More pics of the chassis and lockers?

If postage from The States is worth it, you can have these:

Give the brake fluid a shot. It works surprisingly well. Wear Nitrile gloves while handling it. All you need is the wife’s toothbrush, an old dish pan and a bottle of DOT 3. It does not harm the styrene plastic at all. Sanding may remove some of the finer details in the plastic. I did a Clod body years ago followed by the High Lift Ford. I initially painted the Ford yellow and decided it would be better off gunmetal (below). The Clod was a red mess of rattle can dribbles from the previous owner. Brake fluid was used to strip both. I’d post the Clod and yellow Ford but Photobucket is holding pictures for ransom.

I posted pics early in this thread, but after realizing how enjoyable it is to read everyone’s stories behind their cars, I’ll offer up my M chassis history. Just before the CCP virus lockdowns, two of my buddies and I were sitting around sayin’ we should all get one of the three Vee-Dubs from Tamiya. I love classic sports cars of the two seat variety so I started looking at the Ghia. The M06 chassis wasn’t very impressive with its short A-arms, thus a M08 was selected. I got carried away with hop-ups and it became a shelf queen. The paint was originally intended to be root beer metallic brown, but it turned out horribly. As an effort to save the shell I wet-sanded the inside and gave it a coat of blue to give the illusion of “patina”. Then I came across a photo of a 1:1 Ron John Ghia and remembered that there were spares from a High Lift in my parts bin. The surfboard and Yakima rack from Shapeways were mated to the roof for a California surf wagon theme. I still have yet to apply the headlight and tail light decals. I saw the M07R on Tamiya’s website and had to have the carbon battery mounts for the M08 Ghia. Admittedly, I only purchased it for those carbon fiber battery mounts. The remaining chassis was also a good repository for the numerous hop-up spares from the M08. I took it to the local school parking lot and after one drive, it was immediately recognized as the most fun touring car I have ever driven. The last race-spec touring car I had was an AE TC5, preceded by NTC3’s, TC4’s, HPI nitro cars and a few TA02’s and a TL01. I’m not sure what it is but, I find the M07R to be more fun than any of the afore mentioned touring cars. This one sports a 17.5 TBLM, a perfect balance of speed and grip. It grips the asphalt so well, slides are predictable, I know just when to blip the throttle to kick the rear out...stunning little ride that has won my heart time and time again. If the M07R is great, why not get a runner M08? M chassis cars are small and indicative of imports. After some reading about import racing history, a Brock racing 510 shell was selected to suit a short wheelbase and RWD chassis. I was disappointed with the loose rear end of the car even with a 21.5 TBLM. It reminds me of an ill-behaved child. The loose rear end of the M08 lead me to a 4WD 3Racing M4 (the Tamiya M4 is obsolete and too pricey for a runner). I immediately crashed this into the neighbors trash can and busted up the left front suspension and drivetrain. After acquiring a number of aluminum hop-ups it has proven to be a robust chassis with reasonably good handling. The M4 Sport was selected over the Pro model for its flexible FRP chassis. It’s the only one without a TBLM; I figure a Chinese car deserves a Chinese Hobbywing. It has YR adjustable dampers with light oil but I think it needs softer springs to increase grip. Here’s the M family. All of them have brushless motors, lots of hop-ups, and Tenergy NiMH batteries. Tenergy batteries are wrapped in blue, so it just makes sense, right? My M chassis history began only one year ago. I always saw them as “an odd niche of 1/10 that would soon die off”. That was way off base. They’re an absolutely joyous bunch of cars! During the lockdowns, my buddies and I passed time by racing in the local school parking lot. We painted some PVC pipe bright orange and pieced together a makeshift track. They run 1/10 touring cars and I run the M07R or the 3Racing M4 with their “big” cars. We’re all pretty lousy drivers so we get our FitBit step quota by frequently replacing the pipes we knock around with the cars. Here’s the bus belonging to one of my buddies. The other still has yet to acquire his Bug.

Use diff fluid or grease in the carrier with the gears, but not both. Use grease on the O-rings to keep those supple and to help seal in the diff fluid.

Its definitely salvageable