SupraChrgd82

Tamiya currently has Ride preglued wheel/tire sets in stock. These are hard to come by. Opportunity's knockin'.

https://www.flitz.com/flitz-polish-paste/

Body all mounted and still awaiting the steering servo to complete ‘er.

We're going to need some pictures of this build. I've recently acquired a M-chassis fetish. A 4-wheel spinning M looks fascinating.

The springs compress on a different arc than the arms. If the arms fit clamped in, they would bind the suspension. Their purpose is primarily to prevent axle wrap.

Finished painting and added decals

Savox is among the leading brands, currently. They also offer replacement gears for when this kiddos break then. Avoid Traxxas, regardless of how cheap their servos are.

Trimmed and started painting only to find that the one can of black paint I was sure was in the spares box wasn’t in the spares box. And PS-5 Black is on backorder everywhere except for the 1 guy on ebay who thinks his can is worth $17.

i just looked at the manual and was surprised to see that there are no spacers to preload the springs. Fortunately the parts trees with spacers are inexpensive. They can also be improvised with cable ties if you're in a bind.

The active ingredient in oven cleaner is sodium hydroxide (lye). Aluminum is a relatively active metal. Keep a watchful eye if you use oven cleaner on annodized parts. It can cause pitting if left too long. Wet sanding with 800 grit followed by scrubbing with Ajax is another option.

Are you using the brake fluid method?

Those graphics are awesome!

That's a great Tamtech! I regret selline one years ago. They perform well with a 1/18 scale brushless. It believe it was a Mamba brushless I had in mine. It did about 20mph, and the tires made a great screeching sound in the corners much like a 1:1. http://www.castlecreations.com/en/mamba-micro-x-0808-4100kv-combo-010-0147-01 The 540 is undoubtedly too big and heavy. Not an impossible install, but you'll need a bigger battery and shocks. Theres not much room in that little chassis for the bigger battery. I was just digging through spare parts and came across a handfull of Ti screws and a metal pinion for it.

Perhaps that was an aftermarket hop up from back in the day. There's a photo about 1/2 way down the page linked below. Agreed it's not a Tamiya part?

When you ask for help and provide no details, no one can help you. When you post without good grammar, capitals or punctuation, it's disrespectful to yourself and the forum community. Therefore, you get a garbage answer. How's that for "genuine"?

Familiarize yourself with the buggy's history to answer that question. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tamiya_Avante

You broke it, then.

There are some incompatibilities between servos and ESC’s. What do you have in the car? The ESC may also need “calibration” if it’s new. Check the destruction manual for programming steps.

The story behind that - when I started in RC in the mid-80’s (NiCD was the only battery available) the racers would use Deans 4-pin connectors because they are small and light. I have been using them since. I’m old school and still run NiMH in everything. Each pin is good to 10A, so by soldering each battery wire to 2 pins, it’s theoretically a 20A connector.

I have a friend who has this in his garage. He asked what it is, and I’m baffled. Perhaps a TA-02 Pro? What are the blue parts? Can y’all help?

Grab a fine point Sharpie. Use Sharpie because it washes off with alcohol. Mark a reference point on the left rear and right rear corner of the body. Measure and mark where each stripe intersects the drip rail from that reference point. Lay your masking material like this guy does starting at 1:30. 1 hand aims the tape, the other hand adheres it in a fluid motion.

Extremely durable and far surpasses any Traxxas garbage

Finished building the chassis and did some soldering