SupraChrgd82

Honestly, I have about 850 wrapped up in the M07R and M08 together. That includes the Tamiya and Yeah Racing hops ups and electronics for both. If you want a FF chassis, the M07R is a lovely chassis. The M08 needs the aluminum steering rack at a minimum, according to the German M-chassis website. I haven't driven either yet, but they are brilliantly engineered.

Shhhhhh....the wife may hear......

Tamiya is making an updated ball diff for the SRB's

I'm old enough to remember non-2.4 radios.... Some general rules old TX/RX gear: never alter the antennas on the TX or RX use the long antenna tube don't bunch up the RX antenna mount the RX away from batteries, speed controls and wiring tighten any metal parts on the car that may rattle or vibrate use fresh batteries don't drive under or above power lines keep 2-way radios and cell phones away from the RX These are all easy and inexpensive. Try these first, then look into new equipment.

They always look so nice until the wiring gets installed I haven’t built a Tamiya kit in 18 years. What a joy it was to put together, but it happened so fast. Lockdown boredom will rear its head again shorty.

Lexan does require specific paint or it will flake off. There are several water-based Lexan paints or solvent-based paints available to airbrush other than Tamiya. You can mix to achieve your desired color. Note that the water-based paints require a light scuffing of the body and take a good month to fully cure and bond to the Lexan. https://www.prolineracing.com/paint/ http://www.parmapse.com/fas1.html https://www.duratrax.com/paint/index.html https://www.hobbyrecreationproducts.com/collections/airbrush-paint

Some gentle rubbing with super fine steel wool will give it a haze, as will a coat of a satin/matte clear paint. There are Lexan versions available if you want a runner body. TBG is a likely source.

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Here she is. It started life a re-re Scorpion and evolved into this dusty shelf queen. There's parts from Option House, Pargu, Rogue Element, Team Blue Groove, RC4WD (1.5 tires), and several more I forgot. The only OEM part left is the gear box housing and 4 of the gears. Embarrassingly, I still haven't made the body mounts.

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Here they are installed. The outside post is taller - if I recall correctly, Kyosho wanted to correct the rear camber so the pivot shaft is angled. It takes son trial and error to get the posts installed so the angles are correct. These will fit your car. Again, if I recall correctly the major differences in the vintage and the re-re are the trans gears and countersunk chassis screws. All yours Let me know what other parts you need. I have a habit of modifying over 80% of my cars, leaving me with tons of OEM parts that sit in boxes in my closet. I'd like to see someone get some use out of this mess. Have a look at the Rogue Element engraved roof - can you use it?

I have loads of spare parts from the re-re Scorpion, including carbon shock towers and an old CRP suspension shaft. If you’re willing to cover shipping from SoCal, you have any parts you want for free.

Regarding the build aspect, here's what I've noted thus far; If you use a 6 degree front suspension mount the Yeah Racing suspension arms hit the screws for the lower bumper mount. The Tamiya arms may fit, but I didn't try them. Confirmation will come when I get the TRF shocks. 1 droop adjustment tab on each of the rear suspension arms for both Tamia and Yeah Racing needs to be trimmed off. There's a bump in the M08 chassis for the rear diff where the tab would be. I used a water cooled tile saw and Dremmel flapwheel to leave a nice finish when I cut the Yeah Racing suspension arms. I believe that the M08 comes with "short dampers" based on Tamiya's list of hop ups and that there are 2 types of shock towers available. Tamiya implies that the carbon shock towers that fit the short dampers are the direct replacement, where as the 2 that come in one package will only fit standard TRF shocks. I'll find out when Hong Kong shipping resumes and my order leaves SF Express' warehouse. (TRF short dampers, Lightly Tuned motor) M07 shock towers do not fit the M08. Tamiya intended to use low profile servos for the M07 and M08. There's spacers for a standard servo but the tie rod angles are ugly. There's a little slop, maybe 0.3mm, in the Yeah Racing front C hub/suspension arm pivot. The sway bar tie rods need to be switched front to rear from the M07 sway bar kit to clear the axles on the M08. The button head screws in Yeah Racing steering kit need to be changed for the wafer head screws in the Tamiya kit or they will hit the ball cups. Follow Tamiya's instruction book. Get some extra axle 0.2mm shims if you use the Yeah Racing axles or Tamiya Rein freewheel axles. It costs less to buy the 2 kits of Yeah Racing M07 suspension and steering parts rather than simply buying the M07 parts that fit the M08. If you buy a M07R and use the leftover parts from the kits, you will have 2 awesome M-chassis cars. Now, I have a question for y'all. I ordered a 27t J Johnson motor and TBLE-02s for the M07R. I don't wanna go all Kevin Talbot style, but it's gotta be a fun car. Will this be fast enough? How may turns/kv is good for a M-Chassis without making it do traction roll overs in every corner?

The M08 was my first M-chassis RC. All my other cars are 1/10. These little cars are a joy to build - something like a cross between a tiny plastic model and a legit RC. I have several spare hop ups for the M07 as they came in a hop up kit intended for the M07 chassis. I did have to cut the droop adjustment tabs off the Yeah Racing rear arms to fit the M08 chassis. The remainder of parts needed to complete the M08 look to be another 2 weeks in the mail. As a result of lockdown boredom, I ordered a M07R and a few hop ups from domestic vendors. With the spares from the M08 build and a Protoform Eropa M body, it will make a flashy ricer car to run around the school parking lot up my street. Pictures to follow when stuff arrives later this week.

Still awaiting parts in the snail mail....

Buy the car your LHS has the best parts selection for. Repairs will entail less down time and more driving fun.

Be diligent, Saito2. You have a tough situation with your employer, population density, and number of cases where you live. Wash and sanitize frequently - shoes, hands, products you buy, everything. Don't let your guard down or give up, keep protecting yourself and your family. It's terrifying and horrifying what's going on all over the world. The conspiracy idiots responses are even more shocking. With the growing number of cases each day, you can never be too safe. I live in LA area and have a similar situation. I work every other day from home, my wife and 2 kids are home indefinitely, and I'm trying hard as badword to keep everything clean and healthy.

With the extra time lockdown brings, I thought I'd update this thread to post pics of some of my other RC's; This is the newest project - a full option M08. I'm still awaiting more TRF and YR parts and a Ghia body in the mail.

This 3 have been in my TowerHobbies wish list for years. I'm really looking forward to seeing photos of your build. Are there any Hop Up parts in the plan?

Have a look at the manals and reference part numbers: https://www.tamiya.com/english/rc/manuals.htmt

I always use the soapy water technique for decals (this coming from a guy who loves decals and the racer-boy look on cars and motorcycles). It's about the only way to keep window decals transparent and blister-free. 1) Wash hands and the body well to remove dust and oils 2) 2-3 drops of soap in a 8x8" Tupperware and fill 1/2" deep with aerated water to get suds 3) Peel the decal, dip in the suds or the water (depending on how big the decal is) 4) Slide the decal into place and gently press the center of the decal to get a slight bond 5) Squee-gee the water out with a soft cloth starting in the center of the decal to prevent blisters under the decal 6) Leave the body in the sun for a day to dry the adhesive 7) Squee-gee one more time with a soft cloth one ore time to adhere any edges I may have missed

I have a re-re Javelin but haven’t had a vintage Javelin taken apart in order to compare mounting points for the drivetrain conversion. If your familiar with the internals of yours, compare it to the manual for the re-re: http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/instructionmanual/buggy/pdf/30618-T01_JAVELIN_IM.pdf The ball diffs for the re-re are the same front and rear, and there is a belt tensioner involved that mounts inside the tranny.