SupraChrgd82

Fit the new body and wheels on my daughter’s rig. Kids say the craziest things, “Daddy, I want a Holmes Revolver motor”, “Daddy, I want a Proline Cliffhanger that looks like Andy McMillin’s truck”, Daddy, I want Hyrax tires”, “Daddy, adjust the ramp on my throttle curve”…..

PLBTF is this weekend.... Event Calendar (prolineracing.com)

Don’t use “Frog Tape”. Plain ol’ masking or pinstriping tape leaves finer edges.

I suggest staying away from automotive oils for RC's. Not only do oils contain hydrocarbons that can degrade plastics, they contain detergents and friction enhancers that can further damage plastics. I can confirm that wheel bearing grease will cause Hornet gearboxes to become brittle....

I suggest avoiding cyanoacrylate glue. It is hard and brittle when it cures, not to mention leaves a hazy residue that is quite ugly. If you have already stripped or compromised the holes, it would be wise to replace the plastic component, however Tamiya does often use ABS plastic for chassis components. It is somewhat reparable with black ABS cement (found at a hardware store for black sewer pipe). For good holes without compromised threads, a simple switch from self-tapping to machine threads is a seamless transition. If there is a deep concern about threading, a tapered tap can be used to start a new fine thread (only partially inserted so as not to remove too much material deep in the hole). Have a look at some of Ampro's videos on youtube. Alberto has a unique method for inserting screws in fresh plastics.

The urge to have a 959 is becoming insatiable to point of loading my cart with an MF01x, hop ups, and TBG body. What are the chances Tamiya will re-re the 959?

I donated a SCX10.2 to a friend and soldered a new style battery connector. The guy at the LHS saw the 4-pin Deans that I still use and said “Wow, haven’t seen those in 30 years!”. I’m old

Interesting….the problem was caused by faulty design of aftermarket parts. I shall add this to the mental troubleshooting checklist. Hope to see pics your completed car running hot laps soon!

I’m thinking aloud here….. That’s a new 2.4gig radio, so I would rule out glitching from outside radio interference. A loose connector may be a possible cause, in addition to the servo. I’ve never seen a servo rotate due to malfunction, only stop rotating due to a malfunction. Damaged teeth on a servo gear can cause erratic behavior. I presume your servo operates smoothly when turned by hand with the battery unplugged to confirm. “Brown out” is possible; the car will refuse to steer when applying the throttle. This often ruled out by adding a “glitch buster” capacitor. One of the first steps in setting up the car is setting the EPA by observing the left/right bump stops on the knuckles and backing down 1 click before max steer is achieved. A binding servo-saver in conjunction with excessive EPA can cause erratic handling. Excessine EPA can also allow dogbones to bind up in steering knuckles. The only thing left I can think of would be loose or binding steering linkages.

What type of servo and transmitter?

Don’t drag me into this!

Is that an old Sledgehammer?

Assuming the wheel is designed specifically for the Blackfoot, yes, that is correct.

You have the be very diligent about centering the pin and keeping wheel nuts snug.

The first purchased for me as a gift was a Hornet. Purchased by me was a JR-X2, thus ending any interest I’d ever have in RWD off road RC’s.

Adding baffles or reducing the size of the exit orifice will reduce noise. I do know that older HPI tuned pipes would unscrew in the middle where a perforated disc could be inserted to reduce noise. The old hot-rodder trick to sign off noise citations for 1:1’s was to stuff the muffler with stainless scouring pads.

Visit your local hobby shop and ask what brands they stock parts for, then select one of those cars. The parts availability will reduce downtime if you break anything and make the hobby more enjoyable.

I have a box of Javelin spares, most likely including the marker plate. If shipping from the US is worthwhile, you're welcomed to any of the spares. I think the only thing OEM is tires and drive belt. Everything is collecting dust in my closet.

Wow, almost 50 into a foot and you didn’t even say “ouch”!

Today, I trashed the gears in the hind end of the SCX10.2. I thought the large pitch bevel set would be stronger. Unbeknownst to me “CNC” is Chinese for “made of butter”. A new set of Axial 2-piece spools just made a $93 hole in my wallet. These are junk:

If I had a seat in their boardroom, I’d do market research and make an effort to satisfy the majority.

Arguably 1 of the 2 most beautiful cars ever created, the other being the 250gto. I’m looking forward to seeing your car completed.

I used to love the drive in my Supra, especially tearing up the local canyons. I got carried away with modifications and bought a motorcycle to ride during the engine swap. Then I got hooked on the motorcycle. 8 motorcycles have been bought and sold since, and I let the car go for a stupid price to free up the driveway. I’ve been commuting on a motorcycle for 21 years now, rain or shine. Now I take an occasional ride for the ride, but mostly to work. The bike never fails to put a smile on my mug.