SupraChrgd82

Mummified these 2 in the closet for the next few decades…

Several females in my past reflect that notion.......

My first car was a Christmas present, the Hornet in 1986. Craving a better car I saved every adolescent penny I could. Torn between the Optima Mid and Bolink Eliminator, I opted for a JR-X2 based on rave RCCA reviews. I assembled it and immediately the damper seals leaked out. The oil from the bearings cracked the orange plastic wheels. It performed worse than my Hornet [in my kid brain]. The front was light and understeered horribly. So I saved more kid money and bought ae gold dampers, aluminum wheels and stadium truck body. Still disappointed by the slappy front end, it sat in my closet for nearly 20 years before going to ebay. The look of the new re-re stirs up wistful bittersweet memories, but the distaste for 2wd off-roaders will never leave me. Not sure where I’m going with this, but I resent that old buggy. I shoulda got the Optima Mid. Just to celebrate, I’ll not get the Optima Mid again and re-live that scenario…

PS-SM-F | Shimizu Treaded Tyres (pr) for Tamiya Mini - Hard | Schumacher RC Racing (racing-cars.com)

Bruiser trivia: the big hub bearings are the same size as skateboard wheel bearings. (I have Bones Reds in my Bruiser)

Painted a Proline Cliffhanger with mostly spare rattle cans from the parts bin..

There's only 2 things I have seen work without damaging the polycarbonate - 1) Tamiya Polycarbonate Body cleaner + patience + lots of elbow grease 2) 30% nitro fuel + patience + moderate elbow grease Do not use lacquer thinner or methylene chloride based paint stripper. D-Limonene (active ingredient in Goo Gone) may work; I have not seen anyone test thus far.

What came of this? Did any of y’all win some bids? I was hoping too see the completed listings, but navigating their website is just as messy as their shipping methods.

Just got confirmation that my order from 26NOV21 shipped today. Yours should be in the post soon, Raman36, if you ordered 20DEC21.....if not, your welcomed to come by and sniff the tires in my kit anytime!

Crawler Canyon Presents: Daphne Redux, aka Painting a Patina - YouTube Can Patina Paint be this easy? - Rusty RC Body - YouTube

“I got one for you, dear, so we can go drive together”

Not necessarily difficult, but these were the most time-consuming

I finished the chassis - programmed the ESC, set EPAs and soldered the battery connector. Will likely trim and paint the Cliffhanger body over the weekend. Vanquish VS4-10 chassis Axial AR45 standard axles Element transmission (12% overdrive) Castle Copperhead, 2240kv motor Axial 90mm dampers Savox SW-1210SG-BE Proline Hyrax Predator tires

Those are for little batteries, 1/18 scale packs

I use exclusively NiMH. I prefer the weighty packs for crawlers, and most of my Tamiya cars are sprung for NiMH as well. If battery bars were still available, I’d definitely make my own packs.

There’s a Paramount conversion on eBay right now. The other bolt-on option is offered by Ampro on Shapeways.

A Vanquish VS4-10 chassis, Element Stealth overdrive gearbox, SCX10 III straight axles and Castle Copperhead ESC. Horizon’s current sales are making my knees weak…

Corrections about export info toward the end of the video

Since you have TT-02’s, you likely have spare parts. That will help keep the boy’s car in running condition. I suggest a NiMH battery and 30-ish turn motor for him.

The upper shock shaft in the photo looks a little scarred up from the pliers. Might be glare. If it is scratched, do you have some super fine sandpaper to take the burrs off? If not it will damage the seals and leak.

What measurement do you need? I have a set on a Legends car I can measure for you.

https://teamcrc.com/product-category/tires-and-wheels/1-10th-scale/

Use Tamiya grease. Granted, there are a lot of effective lubes on the market each with it's own unique attribute. But it is always suggested to use the manufacturer's recommended lube, in part due to some ingredients causing the plastic materials to degrade. Several members here have experienced damaged components from using different lubes, thread-locks and adhesives. Graphite, as mentioned above is inert if used in a dry form (no carriers or propellants) and will not damage plastics.

There's a 5-cell file for printing: "tamiya battery box" 3D Models to Print - yeggi - page 11

Josh gives a good summary at 9:21 into the video